"Orange Cat" build 2013 - Fast and Reliable

[Cooper]

Looks nice ! I too am a fan of small props and high rpm's. keep it going. Looks to be heading in the right direction and love the simplicity of the build. Those neu motors are going to be good to handle 45k + rpms.

[focused]

What do you mean the hull is a prototype this is just a Freya MK II from Hydro&Marine , i have had the same hull in 2010 .



Freya MKII next to a Intruder S both from Hydro&Marine.

[cugino]

Mine is little different, because of old 40Mhz system mine is custom made with aramid only hatch and top half of hull. Moddified bottom, because original sponsons wasnt symetrical and i wasnt happy with drive pad either, i cut hull and lowered little. There were few more mistakes that had to be corrected on low half of hull. Now i am very satisfied, but it took very much time, many hours to put hull to right shape. It is absolutely great hull, but not perfect as i need. But i have lot of time to trim hull to perfection. Maybe will be HaM intrested to improved next gen. Freya hull MKIII to be molded :-)

[focused]

Ok, but you made it look like you createted a new hull by your self therefore i wanted to know.

One thing i dont get is you wanted a perfect hull modified to your wishes but you used inferieur china hardware , i have had the same rudder on a first china agitator clone and it bent beyond repair after one flip.

Bottom freya and intruder .

[cugino]

Unfortunately i have no space to make my own hull from scratch. Only way how to make myself happy with good hull is to spend some time on closest to perfect one.

I picked this small one this time. I know about chinase HW it is weaker, but costs nothing. :) This project is about testing. Testing hull mods, ketron bearings, drive line,..., paint and so more. My personal little project. Goal was keep it cheap, but fast enough. If i will be happy with hull handling, i will go with better HW. But i like improving existing things. I like chinase HW as interemediate product. All my chinese HW already was or is going to be modiffied.

I am curious what was wrong with your rudder on agitator? Bended blade, arm, ...? What is weakest point?

[31sonic]

hello I was wondering why you have those foam tubes in the front of boat. I am having trouble keeping the bow down.

[31sonic]

IMG_3595.jpg

[cugino]

Hi,

your colour scheme is absolutely beautyful.

Foam tubes in sponson keeps batteries in place. I only use velcro stripes to fix battery in its place and then force them down with foam tubes. I hope, it will protect against sinking when she crashes with major demage. This is just temporary solution.

Can you post photo of your build here? I would like to see your setup. Thank you.

[31sonic]

Thank you for the information. Any info is greatly appreciated since I am new to the sport. IMG_3408.jpgIMG_3441.jpgIMG_3447.jpgIMG_3593.jpgIMG_3596.jpg

[cugino]

Realy nice cat.

What batt do you use? And what KV and prop?

[cugino]

She is finally back from paintshop, where several layers of base coat were applied. Tomorrow i am going to apply vinyls.

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[cugino]

My simple layout:

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Tomorrow clear coat will be apllied. After paint completely dries i am going to install power system.

[cugino]

Hardware break in test runs. Few problems came into play, vibrations. Still with china motors and wrong props and still in white gelcoat.

Next week i will post video with new powerplant and paint on much bigger lake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKz2v0Jvl84

[ray schrauwen]

Is this a H&M hull or Chinese in the video? I wonder if those motors are Delta or Wye wind?? I have one here. Nice run for starting out. I like the Orange painted one, my Favorite colour.

[cugino]

This is custom moddified H&M hull. I dont know if motors are Delta or Asterisk. I like Orange, it reminds me summer and it is very good visible on lake.

[cugino]

Back from paintshop again with three layers of clearcoat:

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You can also notice set of NEU motors almost prepared to install. I thing they fits good. I was warried about bigger diameter of the cooling jacket. There is no much space left, i tried to install motors as low as possible.

[cugino]

I soldered 22 joints, it took much more time then i originaly exptected. I hope, thet my new precise CNC 8 screw couplers will be good enough.

Few more photos:

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[cugino]

Today i assembled boat, with hope of making first tests on my favorite lake. Unfortunately, i wasnt successful. I found out, that previous china motor failed and took one of the ESC to hell. I have to wait until hobbyking restock ESCs and then order one for installation.

One of the ESCs worked correctly and was able to ensure myself, that new configuration of wiredrive system works as intended. No vibrations at all, i am particulary happy. :-)

When i will receive new ESC, i am going to modify both ESCs adding new low ESR capacitor. I dont trust at all set of 4 capacitors added by manufacturer. Maybe, this modification is useless, because of oversizing of ESCs. I have seen these ESCs working in much bigger catamarans such as HPR 135 or Mystic 138. I expect amp draw below 100amp per motor continuous with peaks about 140amp per motor.

[cugino]

Hello folks,

i finaly tested my cat. I took very long time, because one of the NEU motors was dead on arrival. One of the soft cables was terribly wrong soledered to wires of solenoids. I carefully resoldered and it seem it works quite well. I have to measure motor performance on bench to make sure.

I have to modify NEU motors, there are no axial distances on driveshaft and it makes backplate of motors to go off.

Here is video from my first test. It is short, just for bughunting of the boat.

[cugino]

I have to modify my NEUs to work with my wiredrives.

All bearings on my 1415/1Y (2009) are probably glued on drive shaft. I have to make room for axial shift inside of motor. Well, i have to pull off all the bearings from the shaft.

Do you anyone know safe way to take of bearings? I would like to avoid demaging bearing or shaft aswell.

[cugino]

I noticed on video, the rooster tail is very high. Is it ok? I thing the rooster tail should be more narrower, right?

[grsboats]

Yes add some cup to the blades to lower the rootertail and gain some speed. boat looks great. Gill

[cugino]

Thank you for reply,

is it possible to cup CNC alu props without breaking the tips?

[grsboats]

I wouldn't do it with CNC props despite I have repaired some with extreme care.Gill

[cugino]

I wouldnt do it either. U saved me props, thank you for reply.

[Cooper]

I've cupped aluminum props with good success. I think the key is to carefully pound the shape. Any sharp edge in the bending process can result in a stressed area. Nothing extreme, and I did not anneal or treat before of after. If re shaping the whole blade, I would think a failure would be likely.

[cugino]

Hello,

what type of bearing do you use. I used PbPTFE bearings that last only about 10 cycles. I have good experience with ball bearing, but they dont fit to my stingers.

I already doubled bearing on prop side, i hope it will extend life time. Will see.

[grsboats]

Try to fit a pair of 3/16 lead teflon bushing to replace the ball bearings if possible .I have used this system for years and they last long.Gill

[cugino]

I actualy use lead teflon (PbPTFE) bushing, that last only few cycles at my RPM. I dont know, what is RPM limit for LeadTeflon bushing. I use 2200KV on 6S, its about 48000 RPM, maybe to much for Lead Teflon.

I used to drive Ball bearing in my other mono setup with similar RPMs with no problems.

[cugino]

I did some test this week. She drives well, but i found some issues i have to solve. One of the motor heats up more then the second one. Difference is quite big to accept it. One of the motor has 26 degrees Celsius and second one 35 degrees. It points on problem in cooling or motor itself.

What is your tipical temperature difference in your twin setups?

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