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Thread: BBY Micro Turbine Hydro for SSSH

  1. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avanti27offshore View Post
    what is the width on that rascal
    7-3/4". That's a shade more than 50% of the length!

  2. #422
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    Default The JetJoint

    Here are the photos. I replaced the setscrews with stainless steel ones I have on hand. I'm almost out, so I'll have to order more.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Jet View Post
    I had Jeff drill them with a #42 drill, then I reamed them the rest of the way with a 0.0905” reamer.
    No! It was a #43 drill.

  4. #424
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    looks nice. I might be interested in a few when I get there.

    I thought the hydro didn't need a u-joint coupler? At least the original images you posted way back when didn't have them.

  5. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneasle View Post
    looks nice. I might be interested in a few when I get there.

    I thought the hydro didn't need a u-joint coupler? At least the original images you posted way back when didn't have them.
    No, the hydro doesn't need a U-joint because everything lines up. I may use it in my next SSSH project, a 1:24 SCALE wood boat. A flexible joint will allow me to get the shaft a bit flatter, as I can angle the motor down just a wee bit. And, if I use the "Double-JetJoint", I could get the driveshaft even flatter.

  6. #426
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    Ah, I see. Good to know.

    have you measured any king of optimum angle for the shaft on the hydro?

  7. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneasle View Post
    Ah, I see. Good to know.

    have you measured any king of optimum angle for the shaft on the hydro?
    No, but using Garry Finlay's 1:16 scale plans as reference, somewhere around 4º is in the ballpark.

  8. #428
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    kk, thanks.

    I'm going to look into buying up the rest of the FG/CF I need for these guys. Gotta find a radio too.

    Anyone know what radio has the cheapest receivers right now?

  9. #429
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    Wow.. over a month with no activity..

    I decided to go with the MX-3 for my radio.. I bought an s and a standard in 75mhz, should be plenty of radio for me for the foreseeable future.

  10. #430
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    I always wanted to be "double "Jet" Jointed" LOL
    And speaking of radios Futaba 2.4 Ghz works real well I do not think they are the cheepest, but you know no one else will bleed into your signal and there are some very compact receivers for them so you guys building minis they are worth the extra price, I had to brave an arguement with my wife after I bought mine!!( oh mighty controller of the check book!!) LOL again
    have fun guys
    Peter Eells; Fun, and Helping others To Have Fun!!!
    http://rcboatsbypetere.blogspot.com/
    RC.Boats.by.Pete@gmail.com

  11. #431
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    ya, i agree 2.4 is nice.. but when I can buy an MX-3 for $30 shipped off of ebay and 2 receivers for $30-$40, I'll stick with the old tech for now :)

    I make a conscious effort to enjoy this hobby of ours, in all it's aspects, on the cheap. Now, some of my planes are built with very nice 'name brand' equipment, but they rest fly just as well on the cheap stuff.

    Granted, I do fly with a JR 9303 and almost exclusively JR receivers, but JR receivers are nice and cheap on the used market now because of 2.4. Heck, you can even buy a new JR 7ch Synth PCM receiver for $28.

  12. #432
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    Well, I thought I would spend a few moments updating this old thread.

    I've kinda burned-out on boat building and have re-focused my energy into building a pond/waterfeature in my yard, adding a bunch of brick flatwork, and working on widening the fenders on my glider trailer.

    I put a new, wider axle under the trailer last October, and the fiberglass fenders have been languishing in my shop for quite a while. I cut the outer lip off with a Dremel tool, then moved it about 2" further out; then using some CF tubes on the outer surfaces, epoxied it in place. Then I layed-on a strip of 1.5 oz. cloth, covering the resulting gap. After that went off, I started adding shredded fiberglass/epoxy mix to fill in the gap. When the gap was filled. I sanded it smooth on the inside, and layed in some heavy FG mat.

    When that cooked off, I ground off the CF tubes, filled in the remaining low spots on the outside with shredded FG and epoxy. After that went off, I sanded it smooth, and layed on more FG mat.

    The fenders are now structurally sound and just need a bit of Bondo here and there to fill in any low spots. Then a LOT MORE sanding, priming and painting.

    It's a long process because there is a minimum of 24 hours between each step, and often it's more like a week between steps.

    I'll get back to the MTH after I burn-out on, or finish my other projects.

    Stay tuned.

    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  13. #433

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    I want to share with you mu just finished project, this is my first built other than fast monos and I am amazed on how fine the shovelnose looks, haven't had the chance to try it yet. After a series of setups I concluded to this:

    MHZ Micro Classic Shovelnose, got it bare hull with hardware and scale-looking details, from a friend.

    Added a scorpion 2221-8 3600KV that I had lying around (tried inrunners but the hatch could not close properly)
    Scorpion 35A WaterCooled ESC
    2 X 1450 7.4 20C Lipos in parallel
    ETTI Collet
    Hitec HS-82MG metal gear for high speed turning, as servos take quite a beating in these hulls
    Futaba 3PM FM Synthesised, if I like it a lot will swap it for a 2.4 one...



    Now I need to find a way to watercool the motor, although since the ESC is watercooled and the weight it has to push is little could not be needed, I will know on the first run.

    Here is a photo of the setup, any comments/advice are mostly welcome...



    PS. The ESC is in the right sponsoon and added flotation to the left and the bow...

  14. #434

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    Decided to take it a step forward and try to run it with 11.1 1500mAh 20C which gives me nearly 40000rpm...

  15. #435

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    Final setup.

    11.1V 1500mAh 20C, 2.4GHz, 43000rpm, bring it on... The ESC is in the right sponson and the battery on the left to have proper balance and reduce torque roll...


  16. #436
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    looks pretty darn good.

    What coupler/driveline/prop are you using?

  17. #437
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    Where is you CG with the batteries that far back?
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  18. #438

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    Haven't run it yet but the battery can move forward and backward freely so I can adjust it. What should be the balance point in these hulls as it is my first one(lot's of monos) and I am very excited with it...

  19. #439

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneasle View Post
    looks pretty darn good.

    What coupler/driveline/prop are you using?
    Thanks, actually a friend of mine (he is into scale models) has dealt with the looks of the model, I am just a speed freak...

    Coupler is an ETTI 3.2mm to .130 flex, added a little piece of antenna tube at the flex so it matches the coupler... Prop is stock, 29mm I think...

  20. #440
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    guessing .75 of an inch to maybe 1 inch behind the back of the sponson
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  21. #441

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    I am almost there with this setup, 15cm(5.9") from the transom out of the 38.5cm(15.15") in total length...

  22. #442
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    Will this set-up work on this boat? I know the speedo is fine, but not sure on the motor?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tab%3DWatching
    R/C Unlimiteds
    NAMBA 237

  23. #443
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    That looks like the same one, just blue instead of red. If it is same, you are golden. that motor screams!
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  24. #444
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    Yes it is the same one, Boy they sure have gotten cheap. They have a lot of power at the cheapest price you can get. I found with Lipo this motor would be good on a little bigger boat about a 18 inch. On my 12 inch Mono (MP) it is too much.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  25. #445
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    That is a great price on that motor and ESC combo I am using 2 of those esc's but 2 different motors rated at 3200 kva they seem to be pretty good so far and it sure makes the sport affordable I would buy two at that price because they don't come up that cheap very often but I didn't check on the shipping I hope it is not a rip sometimes they charge like 20 bucks shipping and kill the whole deal>
    Peter Eells; Fun, and Helping others To Have Fun!!!
    http://rcboatsbypetere.blogspot.com/
    RC.Boats.by.Pete@gmail.com

  26. #446
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    Thanks guys, looks like $18.48 shipped for a motor and speedo Thats a good price alright.
    R/C Unlimiteds
    NAMBA 237

  27. #447
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    Hopefully I will be able to get it out for the first run tomorrow! Got my batteries from HK last night.
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  28. #448
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    Other options.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waksk8n View Post
    Other options.
    Did you see how Jim Clark finished the motor?
    Last edited by RandyatBBY; 04-05-2010 at 12:34 PM.
    Randy
    For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
    BBY Racing

  30. #450
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    You mean this Randy? Hope to have mine all painted by this week. I am spraying red right now.

    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

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