Gyrotron, must have been nerve-racking drilling so close to the hull bottom. I considered it as well, but the risk seems too big...
Gyrotron, must have been nerve-racking drilling so close to the hull bottom. I considered it as well, but the risk seems too big...
I changed out my motor mount, I know the one they sale on OSE, Kintec there both to shot. And you need to raise them of the floor some how. All I did was cut 3 strips of CF to raise it up higher. Fightercat racing has one that is made tall enough that you don't need to modify the mount any.
I have seen MG's with stock motor mounts, and still run the 4082
It would be good to support the rear of a 4082 in stock motor mount.
I think if people want to run 6S they should use smaller less Mah cells that are lighter. Quite possibly some add cells that are slighlty too heavy for the HP of the 1800kv motor and it overloads it if you are not WOT 90% of the time.
Some think you can stop and start a million times, do spins, wheelies etc. and it won't hurt but, it's harder on electonics than WOT most of the time.
Same goes for the esc.
Nortavlag Bulc
to be honest i cannot understand why people want to run 6s setups, i have a gieco with a t-180, leo4074 2150kv and i run a m445 prop and this boat runs high 50's all the time just takes a bit of time and effort to tune your setup, infact i am sure i could prop up to a m545 no problem, oh yeah its a 4s setup, i run 4s2p 4000mah 45-90c cells, runs great fast and reliable.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
+1 on that C 44. My friends mystic (se video in first page) is running great with the leo 2150+ t180, as you have. On 4s it's fast , fun and have good run times.
Drammen rock City
In regards to the 6S comments and issue...PB/HH have been replacing our customers motors that have had issues running 6S...it was only a few of the boats that had a problem...The ones that have been replaced are running 6S with no probs now. My bud and I have been running 6S with no over amping/heat problems at all...it was just a bottlenecking/impedence prob where the wires from esc joined the wires from the motor...we are in the process of swapping out the esc and motors..replacing them with T180 and leopard 4082 2000kv ....personally we like 6S setups in these boats....have other boats with 4S for spec racing...we just like to go fast with the BJ29 and impulse31 and they are a lot of fun on 6S...so its a personal choice and like previously stated per PB online and on the box these boats were both rated for 6S...so don't blame sales people or dealers/hobbyshops for going with what was being stated as being the right lipos for these boats by the manufacturer.... DJ
Tunnels-PS295. Cats-H&M M1 Supercat Daytona rivercat. Monos-DF Cyberstorm HiTech 29. Hydros- Ms K Vac-U-Pickle Custom built 37" shovel 10th scale converted to FE Shadow. Rigger-H&M Evo II. AQ Harbortug recovery boat. Build in progress 37" cf Dragboat
Just to clear things up a bit here, I work for a hobby shop and I recommend the bj29 everytime as I think its a great boat, the hull has always been basically good since it was first brought out as the miss gieco, which led to the mystic, to this boat with what I think has better hardware and small details like the switch to change the esc from nimh to Lipo mode without having to connect a programmer card, I think this is a great feature as people first coming to the hobby forget to or don't know they have to program lvc and damage there nice new lipos.
Now to my comments about 6 cell running, YES I agree its a personel choice and yes I can see the attraction of the extra speed, but what I cannot understand is when people do run this configuration they complain if the electronics fry. I don't know about anyone else but rtr boats are made so people can get into the hobby easy, and learn how to set the things up, then when they feel confident start to modify to make them quicker and what to up grade to make them reliable again, anyone asking me what to do first I say change all connections to 5.5mm bullets, then a esc upgrade when they want a bigger motor. But when experienced boaters just slap in 6cells and go for it on standard equipment run as fast as they can for as long as they can and then complain that things fry then in my opinion they cannot shout foul, that's crazy. I ran my gieco for many hours in standard rtr configuration never had a problem I even now have the original esc and motor that I could use again, but when I wanted more speed, I beefed up the electronics first then upgraded esc/motor, and never had a problem.
Rtr boats are great for what they are made for, getting people into the hobby, but people that buy rtr that are experienced boaters and ifire in a set of 6 cells, fry electronics and then complain about it are crazy, and when newcomers or people read about such things on forums like this are not going to buy anything and not come and join our hobby, as they are going to think they are going to have to buy new electronics everytime they run the boat.
I agree proboat should have something in black and white that if people are going to use 6cells then they need to change this and that and give a recommended prop to ease the problem of burning electronics.
Now its time I got off my soap box and go to bed, also wait for the fallout that I'm sure is going to come my way.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
This beat has been going on and on for years. There's three basic reasons for failures from volting up.
#1 : Almost EVERYONE wants to gofaster. Those wanting to do this with a rtr boat (ownership of which usually indicates an entry-level pedigree/mindset) is very often associated with insufficient tuning skills, at least intitially. Believing the hype provided by the manufacturer can understandably bamboozle one to thinking that up-volting is the quick fix to faster speeds. (see #2)
#2 : The boat making companies, caught in a competitive atmosphere between brands need to supply the Iwannagofaster crowd with the simplest cure, e.g. upvolting. This in spite of the pitfalls (see #3).
#3: Companies like AQ and PB KNOW with KNOWINGNESS that these products won't hold up with over-upgrading. They're not that unknowkedgeable. They perform marketing due diligence and realize as a result that these products should target the largest (read most profit-bearing) market demographic - the entry-level hobbiest who will enjoy a happy day at the lake with the stock, rtr config.
Conference with Design Engineers and Marketing Accountants :
Design Engineer : So how should we design this boat to perform while staying within the profit/price point target ?
Marketing Accountant : Build it to the benchmark of adequate performance , affordable buy-in, without accumulating too big a warrantee fulfillment debit
Design Engineer : Well it'll be somewhat mediocre in the speed department
Marketing Accountant : Research indicates that our greatest ROI will come from the more than 80% (a statistic I just made up but probably close) market segment who will be happy with the boat as delivered and won't upvolt. We're in it to make money, afterall
Design Engineer : What about the other customers who, not realizing that the boat was never intended to be up-modded, will take untrustworthy short-cuts to gofaster and will have the boat fall apart and/or burn stuff up ?
Marketing Accountant : So you think the Raiders will ever make it back to Oakland ?
Bottom line (my opinion, and I know there's others)
Taking a 4S design up in volts to gofaster has many pitfalls. It's a stage that is just a step along the way that many of us go through (myself included) to arrive at a greater understanding of how to achieve greater speeds (and depleted bankrolls). Joining the ZSP/WTS Club ( ZoomSplashPlop/What'sThatSmell?) is a rite of passage in FE. At some point (hopefully sooner than later) the realization will come that taking a nice rtr past the point THAT IT WAS NEVER INTENDED TO GO is an excercise in futility.
While nowhere near an apples-to-apples comparison, here's some sub 6-cell record speeds to demonstrate that you don't need higher cell counts to gofaster:
2-Cell N-2 Hydro - 103.3mph
4-Cell P-Hydro - 114.796mph
4-Cell P Offshore - 93.711mph
Above all : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMTnLHDWRA
Last edited by properchopper; 12-12-2012 at 04:22 PM.
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
I would honestly LOVE to see the data from this stock setup on 6s.
S3 iPhone killer via Tapatalk
We have taken the stock stuff out of the BJ already and replaced with 180amp esc and 4082 leopard...in response to previous question about stock motor mount...the leopard 4082 2000kv works fine with the stock motor mount but it does need some rear motor support so we are replacing it with the ose motor mount...
Tunnels-PS295. Cats-H&M M1 Supercat Daytona rivercat. Monos-DF Cyberstorm HiTech 29. Hydros- Ms K Vac-U-Pickle Custom built 37" shovel 10th scale converted to FE Shadow. Rigger-H&M Evo II. AQ Harbortug recovery boat. Build in progress 37" cf Dragboat
bR65, it looks like you have a Leopard motor in your upgrade and you're using the stock motor mount. The Leopard cans are longer than the DYN3830 motor so its recommended to use a mount with rear support.
Did you have any problems running the Leopard with the stock mount?
I run a castle 15151Y in my mg and I don't have anything in there apart from the stock motor mount, never had a problem even after a high speed flip,
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
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