Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.
Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.
Last edited by Mike Caruso; 09-21-2012 at 07:03 AM. Reason: text
Old thread but still valid.
I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.
Revolt 30, Octura M545, Spectrum DX3S tx, ORX rx, Shaft from Kinetic...not on the water yet.
Wish you fun with the Revolt.
Do It Like You Mean It .....or Don't Bother
[QUOTE=metoo;504018]That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis).QUOTE]
Mind if I say something about this.
The NORM is.. you can safely walk out to pick up your crashed plane, heli and RC car.. YOU CAN NOT WITH AN RC BOAT. A new danger is involved and THAT.. is why it is BEST to know your boat, run times.
Again..be safe.
Grim
p.s. As a racer I have not come close to using up the MAH in my race setup..
I never let mine get to studder mode. Working in automotive and aviation testing has trained my hearing very well. I listen to the straightaway RPM drops and I usually can get about 8min run time on my 4200 and 4500mAh going full tilt, varying speed, and stop sometimes. I have 4 4S batteries to run and also have 3 batteries for my Barbwire. with both it gives me a good amount of time till I'm tired of running. when I get home and put the batteries on the charger, they all take in about 3000-3600mAh don't know how accurate the readings are. I'm very happy with the stock ESC, I don't see any reason for me to change it out. I'm still new to RC boating but from my experience with jetski racing, automotive, and avaition. usually stock setup and settings has been tested and proven and given a warranty, and once you modified.. your on your own.
Last edited by jetskier; 05-23-2013 at 06:00 PM.
After initially running the boat through a few packs, my main concerns with the stock ESC were (in order of importance):
- LVC at 11.6V is too low. I'd don't want my LiPo cells dropping below 3V.
- Not very smooth/linear. It seems to go from 0 to 30% power in one jump.
- I got caught twice with a dead battery in the middle of he lake after the "bump" gave me about 10secs of warning. If the LVC was higher, this wouldn't have happened.
LOVE the boat, not so much the ESC. I run Tekin in my cars so maybe I'm just used to the way they work.
The AQ 60A controller is clearly under-rated, since I run it in applications pulling well over 80 amps with no problems. Sure, it is not as linear as some other controllers and the LVC is a bit on the low side, but it is one of the few ESCs which are actually waterproof. In spite of claims to the contrary, ESCs like the Swordfish can be damaged/destroyed if they get wet. The way the AQ 60A controllers are made, it is almost impossible to destroy them with water.
While I have not tried it, it may be possible to run an external LVC with the AQ controller. Cheaper than a new ESC and it would cure that complaint....if it works.
.
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I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.
I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.
Chief
PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.
This is very good info for me, not about the LVC, but about the robustness of the AQ ESC, I too have problems with my Tunnel on the caps of Seaking 120 ESC, added a cap pack, was great, now I have a second Tunnel, ML PS-295, will be hard to add a capbank due to different set up.
It is funny, never had a broblem with the Seaking 120 ESC on all my other boats, but I think for some reason with the driving style ( more part throttle thru the turns) the ESC is working harder.
Guess I will be buying a AQ ESC after all.
(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.
Chief
100_0302.jpg100_0303.jpg100_0304.jpgHi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much
Manny
Last edited by mannytx1; 06-02-2013 at 07:16 PM.
How is this a serious problem??? Where do you get your formulas from?
Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
again..I'm still new to RC Boating. My Revolt turns like it's on rails, motor and ESC is always just warm. compare to my SV27 where is turns like a jacked up 4X4, motor and ESC is always hot. both running on single 4S lipo
Some people look for problems that don't exist.
Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
Ok guys, the HK Nano-tech's have a longer power voltage/amp consistant curve before they just drop out. And they really drop out! So much so that the AQ ESC is going into this shut down feature instead of just the LVC feature. The traits of these nano-techs in general are just the problem you are having with the studder bump feature of the AQ ESC. And I agree, the LVC may be set too low with this particular ESC, and that combined with the nano-tech's not really restablishing a returning voltage bounce high enough to copy what other guys are being able to do, and that is to wait a bit and they'll re-arm themselves and they can bring their boats to shore. AQ ESC are great for P-class racing as I've been using them for years with no issues, but as always, you have to monitor temps of both your motor and ESC to keep everything in check/balance for a reliable power system. That and time your runs so that you don't get into this 'dead in the water' problem.
Back in the day we used a stop watch to clock how long the boat has run.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...shld-32&cat=52
These have worked for me. Run on the SV27 45amp ESC with lipo batt no problem...
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