Dana, this is simply buautiful! Love it!
Dana, this is simply buautiful! Love it!
My first guitars I just measured using a known scale of measurments. I've since bought a template that makes it easier. As far as radius, I also bought a sanding block with 12 degree radius machined into it, being that I like 12 the best. Another way would be to sand it in manually and constantly check with a radius gauge, which I also purchased, but in the beginning I would just make paper radius gauges by using a 12 inch string pinned at one point and a pencil at the other. A giant compass basically, then draw the line and cut it. There's the radius. Thanks again guys!
well its just about ready for paint. i routed the body cavity, did some shaping with hand files and laminated carbon fiber onto the headstock. just a final sand, then time to start the dyeIMG_3156.jpgIMG_3160.jpgIMG_3159.jpgIMG_3170.jpgIMG_3171.jpg
This is so unbelieveably beautiful! I have so much admiration and respect for the workmanship and knowledge you have! Loving it!
Hey dude thanks for the interest -) much appreciated bro
CF on the headstock is a great idea.
IMPBA 20481S D-12
Thanks man. Something a little different, and gotta love the strenth it adds
back at it today. got it all sanded down to 220 grit paper, then applied the first coat of green dye. here it is IMG_3180.jpgIMG_3181.jpgIMG_3179.jpgIMG_3182.jpgIMG_3177.jpg
That maple is purdy. What clear is most durable?
In the past I've used several different urethane clears, but for this one I'm going with a nitrocellulose lacquer. Seems like the nitro is very durable, just takes much longer to cure
Looks good Dana,nice job.
Thanks Shawn
ive got the color done and now im onto clearcoats of nitrocellulose. ill do 8-10 topcoats on top of the 4 tinted color coats ive done already. got my logo onto the headstock as well
IMG_3198.jpgIMG_3204.jpgIMG_3205.jpgIMG_3208.jpgIMG_3224.jpg
IMG_3216.jpgIMG_3212.jpgi used tinted lacquer to make back really dark, help makes the front really pop, then i fogged in the edged of the front for a smooth transition
I like the Green tiger maple next to the dark rosewood...very nice work. I hope it sounds just as wicked as it looks.
Thanks bro, it's actually ebony fretboard. Should sound killer. I process the crap outta it anyways ,so the pickup will determine the sound more so. Thinking emg 81 18v or Gus g Seymour's.
Last edited by dana; 11-18-2012 at 07:36 PM.
Every step looks fab! I am enjoying and learning something meaningful here, thanks for this thread!
What is the interval you need for the nitrocellulose to cure?
thanks bro. the nitrocellulose is put on 2-3 coats per day, 1-2 hours apart. the nice thing about nitro is you dont need to sand between coats or even after the next day, just spray. after i get all my coats on, i will sand it level, and apply a final coat thinned about 50/50 then wait about two weeks to sand with 1000 and 1500 grit paper, let that sit for couple of days, then buff to a nice high gloss shine.
Thanks!
Sorry Dana, I really don't mean to spoil this wonderful thread but I am just too curious: What do you use to thin it? Also when you mentioned "spray", you mean that you are using a professional sprayer, right? They don't come in a can. lol... You see, I wanted to know what I canuse to safely remove rosin and gunk on my cello's varnish, they used to sell xylene ( Goof Off), but that stuff is banned and the current product smells like pure acetone to me now. ( acetone is a no-no, in this case) I can't use alcohol, it will take away the varnish. Wonder Turpentine is good?
I apologize for drifting off topic once more!
Oh dude you aren't spoiling it man. Yes I use hvlp gun and thin with lacquer thinner of course. Yes you can get nitro in a can, but I don't need to luckily. Spraycan paint is thinned so much to make it spray able, it becomes very costly to get the same film build.
The first thing you should use is water. Most of your dirt is from your hands, and what are humans mainly consisted of? Water. Use water to clean water. Also naphtha is a great cleaner or even lighter fluid. Test spot first tho
Looks sweet! Was just at The Guitar Boutique drooling over Dusenburgs. Ordered up a 3 position switch for a my Strat, back to '63 spec, don't like the phased position sounds and they don't suit what I play anyway.
I'll ask my bass player what he uses to clean the rosin off, not sure he does more than wipe it with a micro fiber cloth.
If it's a real varnish you don't want to use turpentine or anything like that, it will dissolve a real non urethane varnish. I have a 110+ year old mandolin I just put the top back on, no idea what I can use to touch up that finish.
Gotta love a real thin nitro finish, especially after 30 or 40 years of use.
Do you use a sanding sealer or just shoot a coat of thinned nitro to seal the grain?
Also was looking at the specs on some new TV Jones pickups, going in a hot rod rockabilly tele style thing. Going to be a real frankentele, left handed post CBS maple neck, gold Bigsby and tune o matic bridge with a pair or TV Jones Filter Trons. Going to have to route the top to lower the bridge and tremolo.
Thinking chambered mahogany body (already have 2 blanks) with a maple top. Black stain on the top.
Probably use a 3 position gibson style switch and a standard volume/tone setup with a treble bleed on the volume. No pick guard, all access through the back, gold pickup bezels of course.
Picked up enough padouk a while back to make half a dozen fingerboards, be great for a bass not so sure about a guitar. Also scored some mahogany neck blanks thick enough to do a mortise and tenon joint.
I need to take some pictures some time, I never do, not even of my boats! Just not much of a picture guy.
If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?
I just used 50/50 nitro thinned mixture to seal the grain. 3 coats, then went to color coats. Now I'm blasting clear coats on.
Sometimes it takes awhile to get the paint perfect. I would imagine guitars are like painting hydros. Lots of corners create lots of overspray. Sanding and Buffing is a must if you want that mirror finsh.
Last edited by detox; 11-27-2012 at 11:02 AM.
Indeed. A guitar is quite a bit tougher than a boat. Wood sucks paint into the grain, and there's no room for error here. Not to mention its lacquer.... Takes more coats and only 2-3 per day. Almost finished tho
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354382650.124120.jpg
Here it is with lacquer done. Now just needs to be sanded and buffed. Almost there
That looks really good, of course from seeing these photos from day one I expected as such, none the less, I just admire the whole deal.
Thanks man, it's been a long process in paint. I'll have it finished by the new year then I'll make a video of me hacking up some riffs. Cheers!
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