Little Twin G

[srislash]

are you going to repaint her or try to keep her original?? if so i have painted my turbine hatch and have a pritty close match to the original paint color if you need the info let me no..

I'm going to try to keep it stock colour for now Jerry.Good to know you found something close,I may redo it in stock form.Quite a few hairline spots in this one.

[HYDROJERRY]

The color match ant perfect but it looks pritty close, thought it would help when blueprinting the sponsons and for touchup (on mine) but can let everyone else no too..

[srislash]

If I end up in any trouble Jerry I may take you up on that colour.

[srislash]

Well I finally got the carbon in and all the mounts,doublers in. Sorry it is not the best I've done.I wrapped right around the inside of the hull right up to the lid.I found this hull thin especially once I cleaned up the glues and such inside



It was alot of CF cloth to fold and unfold in this small hull.



And I also had this arrive at the LHS today

[ray schrauwen]

Put some carbon inside that too.....

[srislash]

Put some carbon inside that too.....

Yup,I've been through this one before.I couldn't find one anywhere when I got my first MG. Right "tiq"...They actually put foam in the hatch now too.Might have to add som though with the weight of the CF.

[HYDROJERRY]

What your not going to use the one that Mardon made??? Also i gessed these were thin hulls do to the factory wate and how ive seen everyones split after a flip,,, that cf will keep her together for sure, good job bro!!!

[srislash]

So the canopy has CF on the windshield



Then another piece of foam to make up for the added weight and to smooth the reinforcing CF out



Mmm, on to stuffing tubes and servo mount next

[HYDROJERRY]

Excilent build here Shawn keep it up!!

[tagasagwan]

Very Nice Shawn! Keep up the good work!

[srislash]

Very Nice Shawn! Keep up the good work!

Excilent build here Shawn keep it up!!

Thanks guys.Should have the ESC's Sunday.

[srislash]

I got a little dilemma,The tube size that fits into the stinger from the hull is metric.My original Geico tube is a perfect fit.



BUT...I have adjustment concerns.If it is a tight fit it won't really adjust with the tube epoxied in.



The 3/16 tube is loose inside of the metric tube



I could use a 7/32 tube thru the hull and into the stinger but it would be loose(somewhat like the 3/16 in the metric)and my water up the flex concerns are raised once again.
We all know that some of these situations drive water up there when the boat is underway. Anybody have any ideas for me.

[Make-a-Wake]

I havent stumbled across this thread....................this is very nice!! I'm plugged in.

[srislash]

Little update here.I got the motors mounted and shimmed(mounts weren't quite right),and the stingers shimmed as well. This was needed as the transoms on this hull were not exactly square. I also got my ESC's

[tagasagwan]

Nice! Can't wait to see it run Shawn! Remember to use floatation and tape this time!

[srislash]

Nice! Can't wait to see it run Shawn! Remember to use floatation and tape this time!

HAHA! A funny guy eh,Yup my other Geico is all noodled up already.

[srislash]

Tubes are in.These should be the least obstructive ones I've done yet. That is 3/16 cable 1" long in the collet and into the 7/32 tube. Also had extra epoxy so stuck the servo mount in.



On the stinger side I ran the tube inside 1/8.I then put a long stub shaft through to center the tube in the stinger. I tweaked the tubes till I was satisfied with the whole fit.

[srislash]

I am moving right along on this build this week.Now the rudder system. I did have a couple of boots in the supplies so I drilled/dremaled a matching hole to the original.I can also use the top original screw holes but will need to fill the bottom ones.



Here is the boots installed,sorry bout the pic,I'm having to use the old cam indoors



And here is my trick for getting the blind nuts started,take another Cap Screw and slip it into some tubing and get a blind nut just started on that.Place a mirror in the hull and start the rudder bolt on the blind nut,you can then manipulate you're finger to hold the blind nut while tightening the rudder bolt.



And the back part finished

[HYDROJERRY]

Looks great shawn but i noticed something you forgot!!! you probly should have filled the transume where the rudder bolts go threw with epoxy to reinforce the rudder's mounting spot!!! either way its coming along nicely, keep it up..

[srislash]

Looks great shawn but i noticed something you forgot!!! you probly should have filled the transume where the rudder bolts go threw with epoxy to reinforce the rudder's mounting spot!!! either way its coming along nicely, keep it up..

I have to run epoxy to fill the spare old bracket holes.This will be a good time to embed everything in.Still contemplating putting the patented aluminum backing plate in as well.Probably not though. I'm just hitting this thing before work for an hour or so here and there.Thanks for the reminder though Jerry.

[srislash]

Due to the constraints of the mounting surface for the stingers I feel it is best that I add this ply onto the ride pads.This will move the props up a bit in relation to the water surface as well as quickly doing the blueprinting.



I also epoxied the ply back 1cm to give a clean edge and cover the open section of the stinger and hopefully stop the water"pressure" from shooting up the flex.

[Make-a-Wake]

Something about a little overpowered twin that gets my blood going!! You were saying "tame", but you can prop up with the shared motor load. Whats this supposed to hit.............55-60 mph?

Nice job

[ray schrauwen]

Nice, I like the ply. That makes the blueprinting alot easier and adds strength too. The ply is also a simple way to help blueprint sponsons for a single Geico as well. If its done cleanly there is little or no repainting to do depending on a persons tastes.

I think I will do this to my single in the winter but, just 1/32 ply.

[srislash]

Thanks guys,about the overpowered,I was thinking I needed a reason to use all those 42mm to 48mm prop pairs I own.

[srislash]

Getting the bottom cleaned up good.This is the third coat of glazing putty.



This is it sanded and ready for one more coat(I hope).



Nice and straight



And I put a taper on the outside chine in hopes of stopping any flipping in corners.This may promote "sliding",but that is fun and I don't think you get much of that with a twin.

[tagasagwan]

They look like chocolate bars! yum! yum!

[srislash]

Still mussing with the putty a bit but in the meantime started some cooling mods.Don't feel like waiting for an order so made my own T,3/16 down to 9/32 out. I'll be using 4mm Autobahn tube from the rudder to the T.



The piece on the left gets installed in the rudder for a slightly larger flow.

[Mike Caruso]

Still mussing with the putty a bit but in the meantime started some cooling mods.Don't feel like waiting for an order so made my own T,3/16 down to 9/32 out. I'll be using 4mm Autobahn tube from the rudder to the T.



The piece on the left gets installed in the rudder for a slightly larger flow.

I would like to know who made the rudder? Try and use Y water fittings when ever possible never 90's.
TIA
Mike

[srislash]

I got this one off Steve here(OSE). It is the center mount one.http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80057

[HYDROJERRY]

Great job shawn.. the ride pads look sweet should work great..