TP power brushless motor.

[martin]

67mph was on the low side. I'm running over 70mph with that setup now.

But that doesn't mean the black motors wont ever be on the OSE site.

Steven is that still with the Leopard 4092 - 1730kv & 180a esc. Also what prop are you running now. Thanks.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Yes, my problem is getting the handling at speed with the larger diameter props. I'l going to try an offset rudder bracket next.

[RandyatBBY]

Yes, my problem is getting the handling at speed with the larger diameter props. I'l going to try an offset rudder bracket next.

Sounds like the time to go to three blade props.

[Basstronics]

Candy on the far left. The middle guy is Lifeng Tam. He is the boss and head hancho. Not sure the relation of the other three people with the company. All were nice and pleasant to talk to. Look at that HUGE motor...

[daveives]

I met two of the TP Power representatives at the NEAT Fair. The gal second from the left in the picture above has an excellent command of English and has completed a post-doctorate in optics. Her husband, who is the second from the right, is currently in a post-doctorate in optics at Columbia university. He has competed in NAVIGA races and has an excellent knowledge of FE issues. They both were very friendly and open. They said that they can comply with custom requests, "just note the desired changes on your order slip". I asked could this include having a round output shaft with no keying cutout and they said that would be no problem. I asked him ,if he had raced in the NY/NJ region and he said "NO" but was interested. He said that racing in the US would involve tuning for the differing NAVIGA and NAMBA/IMPBA rules. He added that while the NAVIGA rules specify a six minute run with the number of laps counted, the NAMIBA/IMPBA rules specify a one mile run, so the NAVIGA boats run slower and for a longer time. This results in different setups and I would assume different boat designs as well. Overall I felt that they knew their stuff, communicated well, and could be trusted, so I bought a 2000kv /4040 brushless motor with water jacket from them for my EXZESS H&M rigger build this winter. Note that the current versions of these motors are described in the tppowerusa web site, and older versions are in the tppower web site. Steve carries the tp power line of motors.

[iridebikes247]

I bought two 5850 motors from them. Awesome customer service I will definitely buy more from them.

[RandyatBBY]

Well I have a TP Power motor in the shop from a customer. Any one know how to install water cooler? There O rings are small and it is a groove-less cooler.

[flraptor07]

Well I have a TP Power motor in the shop from a customer. Any one know how to install water cooler? There O rings are small and it is a groove-less cooler.

Sorry Randy, all the TPs I have had grooves in the coolers or I used HRC coolers.

[RandyatBBY]

If know one knows what to do.... that might be a option.

[flraptor07]

If know one knows want to do that might be a option.

The HRC coolers are much better any way, Plus it's real easy for me because they're made right here in Bradenton Fl.

[keithbradley]

If know one knows what to do.... that might be a option.

Randy, just put the o rings on the motor, grease the inside of the can lightly, and slide it on. It's a bit of a Mickey Mouse design but it works.

[ray schrauwen]

Randy, there is a video somewhere of a guy from TP installing the cooler you mentioned. I believe the jacket is slid over the motor and then you push the o-ring into the gap with a thin piece of plastic or something that won't cut the o-ring.

I think this is it:

[iridebikes247]

TP changed their jackets this year to accomodate the new style cans they had a short run of. The jackets used to be absurdly hard to get on but it was do able I use dish soap as it slides very easily and dries like glue.

On the other hand some of the jackets and o-rings have very very loose tolerances, not good for high speed running. I had one of the jackets leak for a run and this was no bueno in my book. Solution was spraying some spray adhesive into a small cup and using a paint brush to thinly coat the o-rings. Trick is doing this with the jacket already slid onto the motor and almost touching the o-ring, then slide over it completely, and coat the other ring.

Done correctly, this will work fine and there will be NO dried adhesive to clog your lines, done incorrectly, big problems. Finding a better fitting o ring is a solution but if you're in a bind this will work, never head a leak again.

disclaimer: no arguments, just my own experience that may or may not be helpful in your case.

[flraptor07]

It's a good thing they changed them, because if I had gotten the style in the video with my TP motors they would have went right in the garbage. That's pretty ridiculious!

[RandyatBBY]

I all ready tried just about that, I will try again. I was thinking about putting a small grove in the can of the motor on my lathe but if the housing is too thin that will not work either.

[RandyatBBY]

I think I am becoming a morning person. I wrapped some tape on the end of the motor to make a wall to hold the o-ring and pushed the cooler over the o-ring. Then I put the o-ring in the other side like in video. It is installed. Thanks guys for your help.

[rickwess]

LOL. These last few posts are a great advertisement for Dave @ HRC.

[flraptor07]

LOL. These last few posts are a great advertisement for Dave @ HRC.

And I'm lucky enough to have him in the same town!

[flraptor07]

I think I am becoming a morning person. I wrapped some tape on the end of the motor to make a wall to hold the o-ring and pushed the cooler over the o-ring. Then I put the o-ring in the other side like in video. It is installed. Thanks guys for your help.

Randy, that is deffinetly a old style you had there, they have grooves in them now.