Yes, my problem is getting the handling at speed with the larger diameter props. I'l going to try an offset rudder bracket next.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
42" Osprey, 32" Pursuit, 26" Bling Rocket (rescue), Blizzard Rigger, JAE 21FE rigger, Hobby King rigger (RIP)
I met two of the TP Power representatives at the NEAT Fair. The gal second from the left in the picture above has an excellent command of English and has completed a post-doctorate in optics. Her husband, who is the second from the right, is currently in a post-doctorate in optics at Columbia university. He has competed in NAVIGA races and has an excellent knowledge of FE issues. They both were very friendly and open. They said that they can comply with custom requests, "just note the desired changes on your order slip". I asked could this include having a round output shaft with no keying cutout and they said that would be no problem. I asked him ,if he had raced in the NY/NJ region and he said "NO" but was interested. He said that racing in the US would involve tuning for the differing NAVIGA and NAMBA/IMPBA rules. He added that while the NAVIGA rules specify a six minute run with the number of laps counted, the NAMIBA/IMPBA rules specify a one mile run, so the NAVIGA boats run slower and for a longer time. This results in different setups and I would assume different boat designs as well. Overall I felt that they knew their stuff, communicated well, and could be trusted, so I bought a 2000kv /4040 brushless motor with water jacket from them for my EXZESS H&M rigger build this winter. Note that the current versions of these motors are described in the tppowerusa web site, and older versions are in the tppower web site. Steve carries the tp power line of motors.
Last edited by daveives; 09-26-2013 at 07:30 AM.
I bought two 5850 motors from them. Awesome customer service I will definitely buy more from them.
Well I have a TP Power motor in the shop from a customer. Any one know how to install water cooler? There O rings are small and it is a groove-less cooler.
If know one knows what to do.... that might be a option.
Last edited by RandyatBBY; 05-12-2014 at 07:36 PM.
Randy, there is a video somewhere of a guy from TP installing the cooler you mentioned. I believe the jacket is slid over the motor and then you push the o-ring into the gap with a thin piece of plastic or something that won't cut the o-ring.
I think this is it:
Nortavlag Bulc
TP changed their jackets this year to accomodate the new style cans they had a short run of. The jackets used to be absurdly hard to get on but it was do able I use dish soap as it slides very easily and dries like glue.
On the other hand some of the jackets and o-rings have very very loose tolerances, not good for high speed running. I had one of the jackets leak for a run and this was no bueno in my book. Solution was spraying some spray adhesive into a small cup and using a paint brush to thinly coat the o-rings. Trick is doing this with the jacket already slid onto the motor and almost touching the o-ring, then slide over it completely, and coat the other ring.
Done correctly, this will work fine and there will be NO dried adhesive to clog your lines, done incorrectly, big problems. Finding a better fitting o ring is a solution but if you're in a bind this will work, never head a leak again.
disclaimer: no arguments, just my own experience that may or may not be helpful in your case.
It's a good thing they changed them, because if I had gotten the style in the video with my TP motors they would have went right in the garbage. That's pretty ridiculious!
I all ready tried just about that, I will try again. I was thinking about putting a small grove in the can of the motor on my lathe but if the housing is too thin that will not work either.
Last edited by RandyatBBY; 05-13-2014 at 03:51 PM.
LOL. These last few posts are a great advertisement for Dave @ HRC.
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