Revolt help please

[3b3b]

Hi guys… need your help. Last night I went for my usual sunset run when all of a sudden the Revolt stopped dead in the middle of the lake with no power. As I’m setting up my retrieval boat… boom! Cowl (fully taped) goes flying off and the flames are coming out of the hull. Boat takes in water and now all I see is the bow sticking straight up. Now back on land I see that the esc has fried with melted tubing and wires. I’ll be making a call to AQ on Monday but for now I have a few questions: what the heck happened, what can I learn from this, what should I inspect, is the receiver usually done with when submerged, what’s your procedure in starting over when something like this happens and what to do in getting the boat back running again. I’m fairly new to RC’s (5 months) but have 4 other boats (all non lipo running) before the Revolt. Boat is stock with no modifications (except for a replaced flex shaft from AQ). Running two Zippy’s 2S 40C 5000mah and charged using an Onyx 235. I also need some tips on what to do with the lipos. How long should I let them dry (2 or 3 days), should I charge them and see what happens, or should I toss them.

[ron1950]

have heard u can put reciver in with a package of white rice...it sucks out the moisture ...or use a hair dryer...not sure either one works beter then the other.....have no idear about the batteries....try some corrision X on the motor? am sure there are guys on here that can help ya out

[3b3b]

Rice... I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[stadiumyamaha]

If its a tactic receiver you should take it out of the plastic hard case to help it dry out quicker. Test it after drying.
If the motor let go its what took out esc but if the motor is fine then the esc went up in flames on its own.
I doesn't sound like you were doing anything out of the ordinary so you may have had a faulty esc. I've never had a ac esc blow that way. I have had the same thing happen to me using a seaking 180 but the motor went first. I thought I was having reception problems and kept holding the throttle until it blew. Turns out the motor locked up and I was severely over amping the esc by continuing to give it power.
Hope this helps.

[3b3b]

@ Stadiumyamaha - Totally makes sense... thanks. Man that little tactic receiver is a little bugger to open. If I crack it open the wrong way, am I screwed with the receiver and have to get a new one? So now to the motor... how do I check if my motor locked up? I'm limited with tools and extra parts, ect... to test it out.

Now I'm thinking... maybe just sent it to AQ, and have them take a look over. Kinda like a tune up?

With the lipos.. I was able to find an old posting of how to dry and inspect them. Any you guys putting silicone or something over the taps?

Is there anything I need to do with the servos?

[tlandauer]

Don't want to get in your way, you are getting great advices, just a caution on the Tactic: I use them in a number of my boats, then one time I was taking one out of the hull which was servo-taped. I yanked it too hard and the upper case opened. I bumped the inside, that RX has range issue ever since. Please do make sure after it is dried that you don't have range issue.
Good luck and enjoy, hopefully AQ can help you.

[stadiumyamaha]

Spin the motor by hand. If it doesn't spin it's def broken or if it spins too freely. Normally on e of two thing happens when you lose a motor. Either they break internally or they demagnetize.
As you spin it by hand there should be a very even uniform notching.

[stadiumyamaha]

He is right about the receiver. It's a catch 22.
Either you leave it closed and run the risk of corrosion or take it apart and run the risk of damage.
At least they are pretty inexpensive.

[3b3b]

Good info on the receiver... thanks guys. Even better knowing that it's not much in cost.

Motor looks good. I get the even notching when turning.

[arp1500]

3b3b any word from aquacraft about your boat?
what did you end up doing

[3b3b]

3b3b any word from aquacraft about your boat?
what did you end up doing

I sent everything back to AQ. Cost about $28 from Seattle. My guess is that it'll be back by the end of next week. In the end I'll have a new boat.

As a note... if you send something back to them, make sure you check to see if it's in stock or backorder. The RTR was on back order so I said "why not take a RxR and add a Rx/Tx, then bench test it before you ship it back to me." They took my suggestion and working on it. If I said nothing... I would have been playing a longer waiting game.

[CHIEFY_44]

Squirt some corrosion x into the ex and let it do its thing no need to split the casing I squirt it into servos rx's and motors before they even have been submerged never had a problem with anything since I started doing it.

[arp1500]

well good luck with the new boat when ever you receive it

[3b3b]

Finally got the boat back yesterday. Hobby Services was kind enough to replace the boat with a new RxR boat and adding a Rx Tx. And learning from others I also did the following: loctite all screws, installed upgraded shaft and octura collet, additional epoxy to motor mounts and servo tray, replaced velco, corrosion x... ect. I also noticed that the stuffing tube was not aligned with the motor and was loose to the point I could move it side to side and back to front. Had to add more epoxy to secure it. 2 inconsistencies from the first boat... one of the stainless steel nuts and bolts that secure the rudder was made of brass rather than stainless steel (looks cheap) and the strut bushing was able to fit entirely into the stuffing tube where as the original strut had the small indentation sticking out (unsure what is normal). Maiden voyage went smooth and second run was just as nice. Thanks AQ and HS.

[Heaving Earth]

Lipos can get wet. I run mine underwater in my summit all the time. Just let things air dry or put them in rice.

[Tom899]

one of the stainless steel nuts and bolts that secure the rudder was made of brass rather than stainless steel (looks cheap)

3b3b- The brass screw is intentional. If you hit an object in the water with the rudder the brass screw will shear off and let the rudder tilt up instead of ripping the transom off.

[3b3b]

Well that's good to know. I guess having it on the second boat is better than the ss on the first one.