Revolt 30 just received - Stock Transom needs QC!

[gyrotron]

Hello,

After inspecting my Revolt 30 before 1st maiden run I found there are no lock nuts fastening any of the hardware at the transom. I took the attached testimonial picture. I would like Grimracer to take a look at this one... because there is some QC needed I think.

Revolt30 stock transom.jpg

[rjs62]

wow.... that really sucks !

[gyrotron]

It does and I also found a leak apparently coming from the rudder back plate...

[tlandauer]

I can understand how you feel, but I remember reading earlier posts regarding this matter, it is normal, there isn't any lock nut , the metal plates are threaded and act as fasteners. As for leaking, I check all RTR boats with anything that can break loose or leak before maiden just as you have done.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...not-have-bolts
As for the leak, you might have to seal it with either silicone or epoxy. Many people don't like silicone INSIDE their hull, because it leaves oily residue that prevents any good epoxing needs. Before doing that I would check if the rudder is firmly attached to the transom. If you don't want to apply anything inside, I would loosen the rudder bracket and put silicone OUTSIDE where the bracket is attached to the transom, I do that to all my boats now, a little is enough, don't need to have an oozing blob.
just my $.02
Have fun and keep us posted!

[siberianhusky]

AQ has been mounting hardware like that since at least the first generation of SV27, never heard of anybody having problems with it.
If you have holes in a boat there is a chance they will leak, all boats wether RTR of built by you should be checked in a bathtub for leaks around all of the mounting hardware.
I personally don't like silicone anywhere near my boats, the stuff is horrible. ONce it's there it's there forever, even if you think it's gone from the surface it's still there. Makes repairs and paint just about impossible due to the properties of silicone.
Use a good latex caulking like Mono, can be removed down the road if needed, can be painted over and lasts just as long as silicone.

[gyrotron]

I can understand how you feel, but I remember reading earlier posts regarding this matter, it is normal, there isn't any lock nut , the metal plates are threaded and act as fasteners. As for leaking, I check all RTR boats with anything that can break loose or leak before maiden just as you have done.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...not-have-bolts
As for the leak, you might have to seal it with either silicone or epoxy. Many people don't like silicone INSIDE their hull, because it leaves oily residue that prevents any good epoxing needs. Before doing that I would check if the rudder is firmly attached to the transom. If you don't want to apply anything inside, I would loosen the rudder bracket and put silicone OUTSIDE where the bracket is attached to the transom, I do that to all my boats now, a little is enough, don't need to have an oozing blob.
just my $.02
Have fun and keep us posted!

TL,

On the link you send me people say it is ok because back plates are threaded and then Grimracer says:
"The replacement hardware sets come with tapped plates and nuts." Humm, just wondering how so... I will also seal the rudder backplate and lets hope that will take care of the leak. Well, I'll go ahead with maiden run w/o the lock nuts like everyone else and just for the sake of it contact AQ and see if they at least send me the replacement hardware.

Thank You.

[gyrotron]

AQ has been mounting hardware like that since at least the first generation of SV27, never heard of anybody having problems with it.
If you have holes in a boat there is a chance they will leak, all boats wether RTR of built by you should be checked in a bathtub for leaks around all of the mounting hardware.
I personally don't like silicone anywhere near my boats, the stuff is horrible. ONce it's there it's there forever, even if you think it's gone from the surface it's still there. Makes repairs and paint just about impossible due to the properties of silicone.
Use a good latex caulking like Mono, can be removed down the road if needed, can be painted over and lasts just as long as silicone.

Hello Sibe,

I will go ahead and use the Mono sealant you recommend.

Thank you,

[Heaving Earth]

They prolly send nuts in case you don't want to use the plates, or wish to use the hardware on another project on which the plates won't fit.
Or it's just a typo.
Why would they send you replacement hardware? There's nothing wrong with yours....
Go to the hardware store and buy nuts if you're that OCD about it

[tlandauer]

I think when you order the hard ware set, the nuts are included. I think it saves quite alot of money for AquaCraft to have the threaded metal plate, this way the worker only has to align the holes once and both screws are in so to speak, no need to worry individual nuts. Since they are not paying YOU to do the job, they figure might as well to include the nuts for the set. lol.
I learned something too, you should heed the advice from siberianhusky: check out that stuff he recommended. I will be checking it out.

[gyrotron]

They prolly send nuts in case you don't want to use the plates, or wish to use the hardware on another project on which the plates won't fit.
Or it's just a typo.
Why would they send you replacement hardware? There's nothing wrong with yours....
Go to the hardware store and buy nuts if you're that OCD about it

Ok, I won't worry anymore about the back plates and just go ahead a fix the leak. Thx

[gyrotron]

I think when you order the hard ware set, the nuts are included. I think it saves quite alot of money for AquaCraft to have the threaded metal plate, this way the worker only has to align the holes once and both screws are in so to speak, no need to worry individual nuts. Since they are not paying YOU to do the job, they figure might as well to include the nuts for the set. lol.
I learned something too, you should heed the advice from siberianhusky: check out that stuff he recommended. I will be checking it out.

Yeah I'll get the sealing product and fix the leak

[dana]

have you tried just cranking the bolts tight to stop the leak? i have NEVER used silicone to stop a leak in a boat yet…. usually just having the bolts tight will stop leaks

[gyrotron]

have you tried just cranking the bolts tight to stop the leak? i have NEVER used silicone to stop a leak in a boat yet…. usually just having the bolts tight will stop leaks

I'll just go ahead and apply the sealant Sibe recommended. Thanks.

[dana]

plumbers putty also works good. plus it never dries out and is removable, and isnt made with silicone, so future glueing or painting is ok

[gyrotron]

plumbers putty also works good. plus it never dries out and is removable, and isnt made with silicone, so future glueing or painting is ok

Dana,

I believe if I use the plummer's putty I won't have to wait until it dries so I am going to go this route first and see how it behaves. I am eager for the maiden run.

Good time saver tip!

[Heaving Earth]

Dana,

I believe if I use the plummer's putty I won't have to wait until it dries so I am going to go this route first and see how it behaves. I am eager for the maiden run.

Good time saver tip!

[gyrotron]

Well guys, second time I have fallen in love; first my wife and now plummers putty ... worked like a charm Out for the maiden run C-ya!

[tlandauer]

[QUOTE=gyrotron;441404]Well guys, second time I have fallen in love; first my wife and now plummers putty ... worked like a charm Out for the maiden run C-ya![/QUOTE

Have fun!

[Heaving Earth]

Glad to hear it!

[dana]

awesome bro… ive been telling people about plumbers putty on here for some time.. but mostly people dont listen. nice to hear somebody took my advise

[gyrotron]

awesome bro… ive been telling people about plumbers putty on here for some time.. but mostly people dont listen. nice to hear somebody took my advise

Guys,

This is what I did. Bought an ACE 3/4" plummer's putty roll, the width fits perfectly on the rudder bracket base of the Revolt 30, I custom cutted the length, then I pushed the bracket against a flat surface to flaten the piece of putty until I got a 1mm film like thickness, removed with an exacto the putty excess and then removed the nonstick backing paper. With a piercing driver I made a hole the diameter of the back plate screw and removed away the excess putty around the hole, positioned the rudder bracket back in place, tightened the screw to the back plate and finally removed the excess putty around the bracket base on the exterior of the hull. Voila! no more leaking plus since I did not have to wait for the seal to cure or dry I was in the water in no time. Thank you Dana and Tlandauer for the suggestions

P.S.: Maiden run was a total success. This thing is fast but a battery thirsty tazmanian devil

[siberianhusky]

Going to have to give that stuff a try. I had never seen a post about it before.
Cheers

[gyrotron]

Going to have to give that stuff a try. I had never seen a post about it before.
Cheers

Don't hesitate to try it when the opportunity arises. I am glad I can contribute to the forum with something usefull to others. Keep boating !

[Doby]

Define "battery thirsty".....

[tlandauer]

plumbers putty also works good. plus it never dries out and is removable, and isnt made with silicone, so future glueing or painting is ok

That is the second thing i learned today. I am in a little town vacationing in Idaho, actually drove into town center's Ace Hardware to look for this stuff but they closed at 6pm, dang.
Will go tomorrow, guess i am sick with FE.
Love this forum, Thanks!

[dana]

Ace hardwares hours are terrible

[gyrotron]

Define "battery thirsty".....

Well I guess the reference point I am using for such definition is my other boat which is a Thunder Tiger Outlaw Jr which sucks a 3s 2200 mAh battery in about five mins to 3.65v and the Revolt 30 takes a 4s 5000mAh battery in 3 mins to 3.60v. Since I am a newbie it appeared to me, compaired to the Outlaw, that the Revolt was a power hungry boat...thats all