New Stealth hydro

[Shooter]

For what it's worth, I run my rudder on the right side (first time trying this). I have the servo pulling during the turn (push-rod in tension). I struggled with the turns until this very weekend. I ran Friday, Sat, and Sunday. Finally, I ended up increasing my turn fin width and she turns on a dime now. It used to skid and bounce a lot and I was beginning to think it was my rudder location. Not so at all. Works fine on the right side. Good luck!

Rudder.jpg

[phil t]

DSC02303 (800x532).jpg

This is the CD machine, turn fin and mount.

[ray schrauwen]

Very nice Phil. May I ask what is the approx. the best depth for my turnfin on my PTSS?? I have a Mike Hughes turnfun, very similar to Virginia Craftsman.

It did get a bit mangled last race so, I might be getting one of these.

[phil t]

Very nice Phil. May I ask what is the approx. the best depth for my turnfin on my PTSS?? I have a Mike Hughes turnfun, very similar to Virginia Craftsman.

It did get a bit mangled last race so, I might be getting one of these.

2-2.5" below the sponson pad is ok.

[Shooter]

Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

Thanks.

2012-09-03_12-37-56_797.jpg

[phil t]

Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

Thanks.


2012-09-03_12-37-56_797.jpg

That should work, S bends are ok if not sharp angle. I would have just angled the motor more and used one bend to the strut

[ray schrauwen]

Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

Thanks.

2012-09-03_12-37-56_797.jpg

I use a pair of 7600 2S 40C nanotechs and no lead. It could use 2-4 more ozs.

The batts realy rock! Actually 2P inside but, no heat no swell. Now I need to make one of those end bells on my Taig lathe/ mill.

[Shooter]

Phil - Thanks. We will give it a whirl tonight with the new flex line. You are absolutely right, I probably should have put a gradual angle on the flex and angled the motor slightly. Live and learn I guess. BTW - The boat is holding up nicely!! .....and it's been through an unbelievable amount of abuse. Great hull. Tough as nails!!

Ray - Yeah, I have to get back to that endbell cooler. I don't have any side by side data yet, but I have about 15 runs on the ABC1717 prop with speeds in the mid 50's. I think I would have toasted the motor by now without it, but who knows. If I were to do it again, I'd machine the fins with the lathe, not the mill saw. It was a real headache.

[fla350tt]

bad question deleted

[marko500]

Just wondering if anyone has tried using an air dam on the bottom of the tunnel on the earlier Stealths?

[phil t]

Phil

I recently aquired one of your hydro hulls from a member on the board. the hull was made 3-24-12. my question is: should I sand down the steps or should I fill in behind them and level to the back edge of the sponson?

Why??? What steps on the hydro?

[fla350tt]

Why??? What steps on the hydro?

never mind, I thought you smoothed out the step on the sponson(main ride pad area).

next question is: I want to widen the boat to make it legal but my local hobby shops only have basswood in the wider widths, is this ok to use or do I need to get hard balsa wood?

[phil t]

never mind, I thought you smoothed out the step on the sponson(main ride pad area).

next question is: I want to widen the boat to make it legal but my local hobby shops only have basswood in the wider widths, is this ok to use or do I need to get hard balsa wood?

The bass wood strip wil be fine, you only needto add about 1/8th inch then use some filler

This is a pic of the hull
DSC02268 (800x600).jpg

[Brushless55]

I dig these hull alot!
nice speeds bro

[ray schrauwen]

I haven't got mine all trimmed out yet but, I like these cells because they eliminate 90% of the lead you need to put in.

These never break a sweat:

[detox]

I haven't got mine all trimmed out yet but, I like these cells because they eliminate 90% of the lead you need to put in.

These never break a sweat:

The more mah the better. Less voltage drop as laps run down

[phil t]

I haven't got mine all trimmed out yet but, I like these cells because they eliminate 90% of the lead you need to put in.

These never break a sweat:

I dont have lead but where you find that battery?

[detox]

Here are some cool higher capacity bateries.
http://www.neumotors.com/store/page12/index.html

[Brushless55]

thanks for posting those Ray
I'll have to find the link and check out those prices..
I'm needing to buy 12 to 18 more lipo packs for 2013 racing season..

[detox]

The Turnigy Nano packs ray posted are 2s2p (two 2s packs paralleled within the pack). The Neu packs are true 2s1p.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o_E_Maxx_.html

[Brushless55]

The Turnigy Nano packs ray posted are 2s2p (two 2s packs paralleled within the pack). The Neu packs are true 2s1p.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o_E_Maxx_.html

so?
if they kick a$$ then it really does not matter 2s2p or 2s1p

[ray schrauwen]

You are very correct.

I originally bought them since they were listed as 2S1P but, I knew they were 2P.

That said I'm still very, very please with them.

Yes, there are much better cells out there but, they are too light most times requiring Lead to offset the CG or cut & chop the inside up.

The Turnigy Nano packs ray posted are 2s2p (two 2s packs paralleled within the pack). The Neu packs are true 2s1p.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o_E_Maxx_.html

[ray schrauwen]

Back to the Stealth, sorry to Highjack or take thread sideways...

[detox]

I can see how some cells would be too light for the higher power P sport hydro class, but not the LSH class (UL-1 power). I think the NEU 6200 would be perfect for LSH

NEU 6200, 2s, 312 grams, 5c, 35c, $47.00
NEU 8300, 2s, 409 grams, 5c, 35c, $79.95

[detox]

Back to the Stealth, sorry to Highjack or take thread sideways...

No hijack here. We are talking about the Stealth and what batteries may work best.

[phil t]

Back to the Stealth, sorry to Highjack or take thread sideways...

Thats ok, so with the 2p they are more weight and longer run time, sounds good. You have two of these in the boat for total of 4s. How do they charge, just use 2s charge on each? Is there a balance plug that sees all 4 cells on 2s2p.

[ray schrauwen]

The Nano's are 377 Grams which adds a total of 130Grams to the front of your boat.

Thats ok, so with the 2p they are more weight and longer run time, sounds good. You have two of these in the boat for total of 4s. How do they charge, just use 2s charge on each?

Yep, they charge as 2S1P packs. Since they are not duds from factory the 2P balances fine on a charger. Of course you can't check if one of the P'ed packs goes bad... at least not that easy.

Since I learned of Parellel charging and bought a couple boards to do it, I really like it. My cells are more balanced.

[ray schrauwen]

I might try a 2200Kv SSS 4074 in the PT on same packs and 120Amp esc to see what it will do.

I hope we get P-Sport Hydro back up in Canada next season...

[RCKong]

I've found that 2s 6000mah nanos work well for LSH heat racing. With the motor forward like Shooter did can eliminate having to add weight to the front boat.
weight = load = heat. In stock class the lighter the better. You can put your ESC in front of the motor and your packs in the sponsons and WHAA - LAA !!! No weight added. The boat handles even better that way with the weight of the packs spread out across the front.

[Shooter]

Mark - I run a small 3/8" air dam on the front of mine (older stealth). Seems to work well. I was packing too much air at the higher speeds (54mph+!!!!). We ran in pretty gusty weather the other day and it stayed right side up.

Something to be said about the higher capacity batts. They will definitely maintain power better....and you may not need the air dam with the extra weight. By the 6th lap, I'm considerably slower with the 4500 pack.

Here is where I run my batt:

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