New Stealth hydro

[phil t]

I finally got the newest Stealth hydro done.
This boat has some changes to the bottom. made the transom a bit wider to meet NAMBA rules. This will be good as it should be a bit more stable at speed. I removed the front steps inside of the sponsons and flattened the tunnel floor to kill more lift.

DSC02264 (800x600).jpgDSC02265 (800x600).jpgDSC02266 (800x600).jpgDSC02267 (800x600).jpgDSC02268 (800x600).jpg

[detox]

Can I buy that one?

[phil t]

Here is my boat setup with UL1 motor and esc

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=920

[phil t]

Can I buy that one?

That one is sold, I have one more in the mold you can buy that one. Paypal $245 for the boat and shipping to supersport45@aol.com

[detox]

I am sure that will be a great hull, but I think I will hold off.

Check out this setup.

[detox]

Phil, You need to start supplying turnfins and bracket. The Virginia Craftsman Sport 20 fin is verygood, but a real bitch to get one.


...

[phil t]

Yes but they are goodies, Go to David Pruesse he has very good turn fins for sport and rigger boats.. cdrace@rocketmail.com

[phil t]

I am sure that will be a great hull, but I think I will hold off.

Check out this setup.

OK thanks, what motor and esc is that I need a good fast motor and esc that will work in P sport

[detox]

I am only familiar with the Neu 1515 1y 2200kv and Hydra LV 240 esc combo, but there are other cheaper combinations avaliable thru OSE.

[raptor347]

That's the boat I built for the recent nationals. The picture has the P power system in it. Motor: Castle/Neu 1415 w/5mm shaft. ESC: water cooled Castle Pheonix Ice 200 Lite (I drive stick radios). Batteries: Paralleled GrimRacer 4S 4200's.

It wasn't quite dialed in at this point in the event (read that as couldn't consistently finish a heat right side up). It got lots better by the end. Ended up 3rd in P-Ltd Sport with 3 wins and a DNS. It also set a new 2-lap record that Sunday at 27 seconds and change.

Tyler's yellow boat is the twin to this one. Same deal, not dialed at the beginning of the event, but very good by the end. He took 2nd in P-Ltd Sport and set a new P-Sport 2-lap record at 23 seconds and change.

I like the changes. The new boat should be even better.

I'll get some more pics of the setup on this boat. We used a turnfin design very similar to what we run on the Raptor Rigger.

[phil t]

That's the boat I built for the recent nationals. The picture has the P power system in it. Motor: Castle/Neu 1415 w/5mm shaft. ESC: water cooled Castle Pheonix Ice 200 Lite (I drive stick radios). Batteries: Paralleled GrimRacer 4S 4200's.

It wasn't quite dialed in at this point in the event (read that as couldn't consistently finish a heat right side up). It got lots better by the end. Ended up 3rd in P-Ltd Sport with 3 wins and a DNS. It also set a new 2-lap record that Sunday at 27 seconds and change.

Tyler's yellow boat is the twin to this one. Same deal, not dialed at the beginning of the event, but very good by the end. He took 2nd in P-Ltd Sport and set a new P-Sport 2-lap record at 23 seconds and change.

I like the changes. The new boat should be even better.

I'll get some more pics of the setup on this boat. We used a turnfin design very similar to what we run on the Raptor Rigger.

Thanks Brian, good feedback on your build and changes for the rule led to this new bottom.

Setting 2 lap oval records with a new boat is great, and in both P sport classes. The 497 boat was your boat?

[detox]

That is Brians hull #497

[Darin Jordan]

Here is a shot of mine and Tylers as well...

We definitely were getting them dialed in by the end of the event...

Knowing what I know now, I'd definitely consider building another one with the changes noted....

[longballlumber]

Brian and Darin,

I would be curious to see your layouts in a top view. I have been running a GrimRacer 45X68 (ABC H5). I too spent a lot of time trying to keep the boat on the water. I finally managed to calm it down with a deeper than normal strut (with angle) and LOTS of lead in the tips and at the CG. I am running 2 2S GrimRacer 5000's. Eagle tree is telling me that my set up is currently averaging 80-90amps with 150amp spikes and is running high 40's low 50's on any given day (Eagle Tree GPS has topped me out at 55mph). Amp draw is a little high for me, but don't want to give up the speed. The class is too competitive in our club and they are all hot on my heals.

I noticed the motor much further back in Brian’s boat than mine. However, that would make sense to me if the boat was handling double duty. However, I am curious how you get the CG far enough forward with your Limited set up… UNLESS you’re running the same paralleled 4200’s in both classes?!?!?!? (I just thought of that while typing).

Some picks of my set up.

Later,
Ball

[detox]

I finally got the newest Stealth hydro done.
This boat has some changes to the bottom. made the transom a bit wider to meet NAMBA rules. This will be good as it should be a bit more stable at speed. I removed the front steps inside of the sponsons and flattened the tunnel floor to kill more lift.

By flattening the hull floor I bet there is less interior room. This will be a perfect LSH hull.

[longballlumber]

Hey Phil,

Mike Ball here... I plan on selling mine this fall and buying the new hull for another winter build. Like Darin mentioned, I have some more ideas about getting it set up for that extra performance/stablitity.

Later,
Ball

[phil t]

By flattening the hull floor I bet there is less interior room. This will be a perfect LSH hull.

There was no change to the inside hull.

[phil t]

Hey Phil,

Mike Ball here... I plan on selling mine this fall and buying the new hull for another winter build. Like Darin mentioned, I have some more ideas about getting it set up for that extra performance/stablitity.

Later,
Ball

Sounds good, i see that water jacket on your motor I had that on my motor and it had almost no water flow, checked it with a flow meter, I changed it out to a Aquacraft motley crew jacket and it was wide open.
I would set the motor up to the back of the batteries and fit the esc in the left deck, you will save some ballast weight there.
How deep are these struts you guys are running.
Trimming a sport boat is all about weight and balance point and strut depth and angle, set it to what ever it takes to run with out blow off, once it is close just a small bit of weight to fine tune to conditions.

[RaceMechaniX]

Here are some additional pics of the Stealth Brian built for me. These are shown with the P system that set the 2-lap record although a 32.200 was used instead of the 24.150. To say the hull was overpowered would be an understatement. This set-up was running 70 mph at the end of the straight with a long run up. Believe it or not it was not pulling huge power numbers, but it was spinning the X440/3 pretty high.

Brian has his dialed for P-spec and was visibly quicker than Darin's and mine. He blew the old P-spec record by several seconds. I just got lucky and had good water when I set the P record, I know Brian probably would have edged me out given more time and better water.

We had great fun with these hulls.

Tyler

DSC_4729.jpgDSC_4721.jpgDSC_4736.jpgDSC_4740.jpgDSC_4743.jpg

[detox]

Tyler, I really like that color yellow. What color yellow is it?

OH YEA...how much does your hull weigh ready to run?


...

[longballlumber]

Thanks for posting pictures Tyler,

Were you guys using the same battery configuation in P Sport Hydro as you were in P-Limited Sport Hydro? If so that would explain your abiltiy to have the motor in the same place for both classes and maintaining the balance of the boat for both classes.

Thanks
Mike

[Shooter]

i see that water jacket on your motor I had that on my motor and it had almost no water flow, checked it with a flow meter, I changed it out to a Aquacraft motley crew jacket and it was wide open.

Phil - Do you recall the flow rates you measured? Thanks.

[RaceMechaniX]

Detox, Brian painted the hull and off hand I do not recall what exact formula it was. Something similar to a Honda Canary yellow with metal flake. Looks great in the sun.

Mike,

For the 2-lap I ran 4S2P 10Ah total mostly for the weight. I did have the drop the strut significantly and increase the camber on the turning too. I did not run this setup for P sport at the Nats, instead I was using a Neu 1515 1Y. It did take a lot of lift decreasing to get the P sport to stay on the water. For P spec the setup runs quite good. I ran 4S2P 8.4Ah total for P spec. I could have run 4S1P, but the 2S packs were being used on the same day for an N2 class.

Tyler

[properchopper]

There's a very important lesson here, often overlooked by many of us (myself included). It involves learning how to setup/tune a boat. Watching the early practice runs of the three PT's brought to the Nat's by Brian, Darin, and Tyler I wasn't impressed and actually thought I had a good chance of scoring well in both P-Sport and P-Ltd. By conscientious application of tuning practices, Messers B,D, & T soon had these boats at the top of their game and kicking some serious butt. There's no short-cut to achieving results and, having personally witnessed this, I, now more than ever need to remember this. So should we all.

[detox]

I just put my order in for one of these.

[phil t]

Phil - Do you recall the flow rates you measured? Thanks.

Dont know if it means anything to you but on a Boris meter it was 20-30,, wide open is 0. 40 would be a needle setting rich on a nitro motor so it would be very small amount of flow.

[ray schrauwen]

Just ran my painted PTSS this weekend and I use no lead. Instead I use Turnigy Nanotech 7.6AH 2s2P x2 Lipos and the extra weight keeps it planted .... unless like in the last heat I heated up my lipos before the race and wholly molly, staging the start I punched it and she blew over from the power and it was a calm day to boot.

Usually it was just fine until I "turned on" my cells by heating them to 120F before the run.... now, maybe some weight, 2-4 oz's at most

Nice new boat Phil!

Maybe this winter...

[detox]

Phil, Does it matter which side of stern you mount rudder. I see most people mount rudder on the lefthand side because of less linkage flex. Have you ever noticed a difference in handling Right vs. Left.

JFYI i have been using the High Tech Mighty Mini Servo in my 30" hydro for some time now without fail. Rudder is mounted on right side of stern using 440 rod (pushing action to turn right)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN667&P=ML

[detox]

I found this Turfin info very helpfull when balancing my hull. Imagine a string being tied to center of turnfin while cornering. Much like the old string driven airplanes going round and round. Air flowing underneath hull also plays big roll. I like balance slightly tail heavy.

Mike,
In the hydro world, best way to get a handle on hull attitude with turn fin placement changes is PICK BOAT UP by the turn fin.

Now while cornering hull is pivoting / hanging by the fin.

So a fin too far forward has hulls tail heavier that the front and hull will YAW hard having transom swinging around faster than the bow.

Fin too far back places bow heavier than tail and hull will seam to push like a race car does with a straight axle not wanting to set up and get around the corner.

When placement is correct tail should follow the bow as if hull is swinging on a string while balanced right in the middle.

** Tuck angle having fins lower edge tilted towards hull places the water pressure of the sliding fin to climb the angle and this pressure tends to pull the hull downward at the same time.

[phil t]

Phil, Does it matter which side of stern you mount rudder. I see most people mount rudder on the lefthand side because of less linkage flex. Have you ever noticed a difference in handling Right vs. Left.

JFYI i have been using the High Tech Mighty Mini Servo in my 30" hydro for some time now without fail. Rudder is mounted on right side of stern using 440 rod (pushing action to turn right)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN667&P=ML

The left side mount is common on sport boats, linkage is a pull for right turns and helps hold the turn fin in the water. You can put it on the right let me know how it races like that.
The 225 is good servo for rudder.