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Thread: miss geico bouncing problem!

  1. #31
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    I love all your ideas, i am away from my boats now, the 1st thing I will do when i have a chance is to put back the stock rudder and adjust the strut as well as i can, then i need to see why mine chine walks, ( no one else seems to have this problem). I can't deal with the amount of bounce I have with the off-set rudder. So I am puzzled as why the Mystic bounces less with the off-set. I know it is different from the Kintec design, but off-set is off-set, there should be no mysteries to it.

  2. #32
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    Yes, I had a look for the stock rudder my self last night , but I don't remember where it is , darn. The mystic rudder is kinda ' out of the way' compared to the Kintec one.

    Chine Walk on the Geico I don't think I have heard of that one.
    Drammen rock City

  3. #33
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    Yeah, mine does the wiggle with the stock, not Kintec though, but... Guess I would pick chine walk over bounce, lol

  4. #34
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    I will try to put one up. They are about 3/4" and shaped them like tabs on a real boat. As of now they are just bent pieces of very thin aluminum hot glued on the back. If you keep the shaft full of grease it keeps the water out. Check your rudder boot for leaks. That is where my water was coming in from. Put in tub to finally figure it out after a bunch of shaft work also. You can't have enough grease on the shaft in my opinion. I am somewhat new but hit a Aligator / turtle on one of the first runs so I became very good at fixing issues that came up after apart and then back together.
    I also took a file to the strut to give it more adjustment than the stock slot in the strut, I have read many others who did the same thing and it helps w adjusting most of the bounce out.

  5. #35
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    Sorry wrong post

  6. #36
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    Hey,
    You know the drill,
    Pictures and video's would be helpful to see whats up.
    Is the kintec offset rudder version 1 or version 2 ?
    And when taking the video watch out for that tree, Ahhhhhhhh.






    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    Yeah, mine does the wiggle with the stock, not Kintec though, but... Guess I would pick chine walk over bounce, lol

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    Hey,
    You know the drill,
    Pictures and video's would be helpful to see whats up.
    Is the kintec offset rudder version 1 or version 2 ?
    And when taking the video watch out for that tree, Ahhhhhhhh.


    HI,

    Don't know which version, I think it is V2. Yeah, the tree... lol
    I took a small hydro ( DF Vortex 16 RTR that was sold here a few years ago) to a small nice pond where i am taking a vacation, tried to take some pictures this morning and almost fell in the lake. I guess I am not cut out for multi tasking. Talk about co-ordination.

  8. #38
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    The main problem with this hull be it a gieco or a mystic is the ride pads have concave ride surfaces which make the hull bounce, so blue printing the hull is a must for a smooth ride, but you also need to set the strut and cog to get the best out of this hull. But when you hit the sweet spot its awesome, as to the offset brackets kintecs works gd and is strong, the mystic one works but is very weak, I'm waiting for the new blackjack29 coming out and using It's hardware.
    Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHIEFY_44 View Post
    The main problem with this hull be it a gieco or a mystic is the ride pads have concave ride surfaces which make the hull bounce, so blue printing the hull is a must for a smooth ride, but you also need to set the strut and cog to get the best out of this hull. But when you hit the sweet spot its awesome, as to the offset brackets kintecs works gd and is strong, the mystic one works but is very weak, I'm waiting for the new blackjack29 coming out and using It's hardware.
    Yes Chiefy_44, I totally agree, I will be blue printing it---something I was lazy to do.
    Thanks!

  10. #40
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    I moved my batteries all the way to the back and they lay on the bottom, (2S packs)without the battery trays, then I put my Iphone 4 in there to check speed(right in front of the motor) and the bounce is GONE. 43mph and it sits on the back edge of the boat on the sponsons and just glides. Now I have to weigh my phone to create a "equal" style weight to replace it. At WOT on a straight away it almost wants to come out of the water, I am going to try and move the batteries forward just a little bit and see if that settles it back down

  11. #41
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    cool. Now take that iphone out and make a video :-)

    I got some 4400 65-130c Nano's, and let them hang over the back of battery tray, and that really helped on my geico.
    Drammen rock City

  12. #42
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    Now adjust your strut right, To settle the boat on plane.
    And you will not need the extra Iphone weight.


    Quote Originally Posted by swanny454 View Post
    I moved my batteries all the way to the back and they lay on the bottom, (2S packs)without the battery trays, then I put my Iphone 4 in there to check speed(right in front of the motor) and the bounce is GONE. 43mph and it sits on the back edge of the boat on the sponsons and just glides. Now I have to weigh my phone to create a "equal" style weight to replace it. At WOT on a straight away it almost wants to come out of the water, I am going to try and move the batteries forward just a little bit and see if that settles it back down

  13. #43
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    I ran my MG 2 weeks ago on 4S2P 4500Mah 25C -35C nano techs. Never got it totally aired out but, zero bounch with 2P weight and an offset rudder.

    I did promise pics elsewhere but, I'll post them up for you here as soon as I take them Mike.

    Hope you are up to speed soon Mike, then come visit me and we can talk boats and even go run some!!

    They put a pair of huge boulders in front of that flood control pond but, I think my wheelchair can squeeze through.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  14. #44
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    Also it needs more test time because I pulled a lot of MAH out of 9000 total!!

    I kept pushing CG back more and more but, never go it to aired out status...

    As above, I have also blueprinted my sponsons. We can do this in th fall if you like or anytime...
    Nortavlag Bulc

  15. #45
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    Some pictures.

    The CG needs to go way back on mine yet.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nortavlag Bulc

  16. #46
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    Nice boat Ray,
    I would put the cell at the back and work them forward.
    May be flip flop the servo to the center.

  17. #47
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    Thanks Lenny!

    Cells are going waaaay back next time I get out.

    I thought a looong time about putting the servo in center or where it is and it looked nicer in the center but, it's easier to get an Allen Driver in there when I have to.

    I'll be using 5 yr old Polyquest cells next time too, 4s2p, 25C 4350's. They have been on the shelf a year and are at perfect match still. A touch lighter too.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  18. #48
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    I just was thinking the servo was in the way for the cell to move back to the transom more.
    What does the allen screw hold ?
    Maybe a clip instead you could use on servo rod.

  19. #49
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    Yes, it would make cell movement easier.

    Allen screw? If you mean the bolts on the servo, they go tight into the rubber mounts the servo came with no brass inserts but, washers and there is purple thread lock in the 3mm tapped aluminum servo mount blocks.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  20. #50
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    Ok, Allen bolts,
    I was not sure how the servo was mounted and the rudder rod to servo horn.
    On my boats for testing new setups,
    I just use double sided tape and hot glue sticks and wood for temporary mounts.
    Till I make up my mind where I want stuff.

  21. #51
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    I finally trued the last two riding pads on both sponsons, what a difference! The strut top is 5mm above the bracket---this is alot higher than I origainally ever imagined. Had to enlarge the hole on the strut so I can keep the thrust angle neutral. COG is per ProBoat instruction: 30% from transom.
    I can really drive WOT w/o bounce on gentle wide arch turns, it catches air on straight though, ( did not flip, was careful) maybe an air dam made out of wiper blade later.
    Thanks, everyone !

  22. #52
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    did you sand your ride pads and repaint the geico yellow?

  23. #53
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    No, not yet anyway, I sanded them with a sanding block---was looking for a wooden one for rigidity, but guess this is 21century, lol... I got a rubber one from hardware store. use 100 grit first, easy does it, because the center of the pad is concave, so you take off the paint on the edges first, I stop there since I don't want to thin the hull, then i use my two fingers to hold a small piece of sand paper to sand off the paint in the center area. You can use 60 grit to rough it up a bit, but I mainly used 100 grit.
    Used Bondo body filler, this is a bit confusing because there are several kinds, I settled on "Stage 3" Body filler. Name is PROFESSIONAL GOLD FILLER. It really doesn't matter I think as long as it is labeled filler because other kind you have to work with FG cloth---for heavy damage.
    Mixing is daunting, it cures fast! I did a practice run, the ratio is not easy to get, read instruction, I ended up not worrying the exact ratio since you can not do it in a mixing cup like epoxy. Use putty knife and you know the drill. Use 400 grit wet sand to a satin finish.
    BTW, I only did the two ride pads on each sponsons, the long, front pairs won't touch water, so I skiped them. Some people do, and i believe it is a better idea, i am just lazy.
    I don't want to match the paint--hard to do, I will paint them white.

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