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Thread: NEW Pro Boat Impluse 31 RTR V2

  1. #31
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    So, having not had one of these new V2 versions in my hands personally, there are a few things I'd recommend users do to these in prep for running.

    NOTE: Not sure how this stuff would impact the warrantee for these boats, so assume you are doing this at your own risk. I don't speak for Pro Boat, only myself, as a fellow R/C Boating enthusiast, who is trying to be helpful.

    1) I don't like having all the wires and cooling lines zip-tied together like shown at the top of the picture by the ESC. I'd remove this tie, and run the water line up under the side of the deck.

    2) I'd keep the motor wires separate from each other, or at minimum just run the loose, so they aren't touching each other and trapping heat.

    3) I'd install some velcro to attach the ON/Off switch too, and also the NiMH/Lipo switch too. I usually lay mine up alongside the battery tray on the left side of the hull.

    4) Make sure that the latch slot and the pin hole at the front of the hatch cover are sealed up under the deck.

    5) I'd remove the "Y" harness from the ESC, and "series" the batteries to each other, then connect to the ESC with a single + and - contact of your choice, preferably something in the 5.5mm or larger size.

    6) I'd go over ALL of the interior wood (after removing all the components) with a good epoxy, including where the wood is joined to the fiberglass. This is a standard "upgrade" for pretty much any RTR with wood in the interior, and will prevent mold from growing, as well as strengthen the joints, especially around the motor-mount area.


    Also, this will obviously depend on your setup and battery configuration, but when I race my IM31, my 5000 mAh Thunder Power R/C 2S packs are in the battery tray, with their back end right about even with the forward end of the motor cutout in the battery tray to get the CG just about right... With everything setup correctly, they only vary a tad from this location, depending on the water conditions...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  2. #32
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    OH, another note, (thanks for reminding me, RoadRashRacing)... The antenna...

    I've been experimenting with shorter and shorter antenna extensions. On my early IM31 adventures, when I'd flip, it would break the antenna tube right at the deck. I've been running them about 2-3" above the deck lately, keeping them nice and short, and I haven't had an issue with range. Make sure you test the range on the water if you do this (don't just lower the antenna and go run across the lake without working up to the distance), but it has kept me from breaking antenna tubes this season.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  3. #33
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    Darin, thanks for spending time to clear things up for those of us who still don't but might want to own this boat.
    Just one question at the moment: as you said, the choice whether to use a collet or the stock coupler ( BTW, that is a nice coupler) is personal, I have replaced most of mine with the Octura "short" vertion, you mentioned the "long" version, wonder if I went wrong with the "short" one. Also, I found it necessay to grind the mount where the collet is above so it will "clear" the set screw since the Octura is a bigger unit. Any need to do the same in the event I want to use an Octura collet in this boat?
    Sorry to be long winded. Thanks!

  4. #34
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    I run a none spektrum rx and have had good luck running the antenna in side the boat.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    Any need to do the same in the event I want to use an Octura collet in this boat?
    The "short" version is fine... necessary in may cases to get clearance as well.

    On some of mine, I have had to provide clearance just below the coupler. It's larger in diam. than the stock one.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrashracing View Post
    I run a none spektrum rx and have had good luck running the antenna in side the boat.
    I've been working up to that! I HAVE run the antenna completely inside on my IM26, and actually ran it that way at the Nats when I was playing around and ran it, repowered with a Neu on 2S2P 10,000mAh, in N2 Mono, and never had a glitch.

    I don't get out much these days to just "play" with boats, so most of my running is during a race weekend, so I haven't been willing to risk the test to put it all the way inside, but I'm going to be doing some testing this winter and will certainly try it.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  7. #37
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    sent the Impulse 31 V2 back to Horizon, I'll wait and see what they change on the boat b4 getting it again. Good Service from Horizon Hobby and Pro Boat.

  8. #38
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    I dont have much to gripe about this boat. This thing is as good as they come for a RTR boat IMO! You did a fine job on this one Darin! If i can help make it even better i will.

    1. It has a really nice "water proof" lid that goes on before the hatch but... the holes for the hatch will still let water in if you dont tape it down. and taping the hatch at the rear is hard because the hatch lock is so close to the edge.

    2. When you do get water in the boat it is very hard to get it all out due to all the nooks and crannys inside. The location of the drain plug is kinda hard to get to, but then again there isn't much room for it any other place.

    3. The first time i crashed this boat i got cracks on the hatch; maybe ask the "china men" to strengthen this up with foam or extra glass.

    All minor things that can be fixed easily but would be cool if it came that way! Some of us have ADD and want to run this boat immediately after it leaves the box, but its always a good idea to look over any RTR rc before your first run.

  9. #39
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    Darin, dont want to side track the thread, I have a question about the black jack, as you said in the the vids from proboat, the boats are set up loose, for thrills, etc. The blackjacks are out and I saw a vid on you tube, from a consumer, first run out of the box, it was bouncing alot. We all know the old MG"s needed some work to get rid of this, do you think the new BJ hull is prone to it also, or do you think the boat just needed to be set up? I was thinking of getting one, but I wish the boat in the vid had ran flatter, I am sure there will be lots of info on here as people get them and post results, anyway just thought I would ask, sure is a nice looking boat, with some decent electronics for a RTR boat, thanks, Shawn.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobby_man View Post
    sent the Impulse 31 V2 back to Horizon, I'll wait and see what they change on the boat b4 getting it again. Good Service from Horizon Hobby and Pro Boat.
    I got a note from Horizon that they have your boat in hand... Not sure what the outcome will be, but they are looking at it...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  11. #41
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    Hi Guys,
    anybody knows what is with Blakjack 29 RTR, the first impressions?
    Thanks, Niky.

  12. #42
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    Niky, I recieved mine last week. Very pleased with fit, finish & assy details. Haven't run yet but will try this weekend. It's a whole lot better than my Revolt was as new. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased with the Revolt but "as recieved" the BJ29 is way ahead in RTR form.
    Steve

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturco View Post
    Niky, I recieved mine last week. Very pleased with fit, finish & assy details. Haven't run yet but will try this weekend. It's a whole lot better than my Revolt was as new. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased with the Revolt but "as recieved" the BJ29 is way ahead in RTR form.
    Steve
    I'm confused here, I have the Revolt, I opened the box installed the batteries and drove it. Unlike the Impluse 31 V2 ( install antenna, install turn fins 2x, install prop) $400 for the Impluse 31 V2 and assembly required, it NOT ready to run like the box states

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    I got a note from Horizon that they have your boat in hand... Not sure what the outcome will be, but they are looking at it...
    I was told by the local dealer the boat had caught fire and they gave me a full refund. Goo thing the programming card did not work. I would have run the boat at 100% vs the peset 80%.
    Running this boat on 6s is 22.2 volts x 1800 kv = 39960 no load rpm, the charts I have state this is a NO/GO set up. 5s @ 18.5volts should be the max voltage on this boat

  15. #45
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    Hi Guys,
    like to respond to thread of a hobby_man;
    he said that max. voltage on IM 31 V2 should be 18,5 V (5s),not 22,2V (6s), infact I think he's right.
    What happened with Spartan; ESC 80 Amp + 1800 KV motor, there's no person including me that didn't burn the ESC (Castle) on 6s.
    Now, at forum they already prepeared upgraded motor+ESC for Spartan for 6s.
    But,why the Proboat installed the same combination of motor & ESC when the Teaxxas failed completly???
    Thanks,salute all Niky.

  16. #46
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  17. #47
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    Default impulse 31 v2 appropriate set-up max 5S

    100_0181.jpgmotor 1800kv max 5S=18.5v - 21v 33,300rpm - 37,800rpm
    propx442

    NO 6S
    Last edited by mannytx1; 12-20-2012 at 10:51 PM.

  18. #48
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    Hi Guys,
    so finally, it's exact what the guys saying at forum:
    that 1800kv motor is not compatible with 6s,(should be 1600kv), but why the Proboat gives the combination of 1800kv motor & 80A ESC compatible on 6s???
    Thanks,salute all Niky.

  19. #49
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    recommended for brushless motor max 40000rpm
    100_0185.jpg
    4s motor 2200kv 4s=4.2vx4=16.8 16.8x2200=36960rpm
    5s motor 1800kv 5s=4.2vx5=21v 21x1800=37800rpm
    6s motor 1500kv 6s=4.2vx6=25.2v 25.2x1500=37800rpm

    motor A3630 imp volt 12-22.2v 50A 4S-5S
    motor dynm3830 ???????
    max rpm ?????????

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by mannytx1 View Post
    recommended for brushless motor max 40000rpm
    100_0185.jpg
    4s motor 2200kv 4s=4.2vx4=16.8 16.8x2200=36960rpm
    5s motor 1800kv 5s=4.2vx5=21v 21x1800=37800rpm
    6s motor 1500kv 6s=4.2vx6=25.2v 25.2x1500=37800rpm


    motor A3630 imp volt 12-22.2v 50A 4S-5S
    motor dynm3830 ???????
    max rpm ?????????
    Not quite how it works. Multiply by 3.7v not 4.2

  21. #51
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    No DANA Multiply by 4.2v max voltage100_0182.jpg
    battery / nominal voltage / maximum charge voltage / minimum discharge voltage
    1S / 3.7v / 4.2v / 3.2v
    2S / 7.4v / 8.4v / 6.4v
    3S / 11.1v / 12.6v / 9.6v
    4S / 14.8v / 16.8v / 12.8v
    5S / 18.5v / 21.0v / 16.0v
    6S / 22.2v / 25.2v / 19.2v

  22. #52
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    I see what you mean, but still not quite rite. Do not multiply by 4.2

  23. #53
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    You are both "right"... 3.7 is nominal... 4.2 is optimum... However, there are almost NO, if any, cells that will be 4.2V under any load at all...

    You are better to figure out your setups using 3.7 or 3.8V/cell, and calculate from there. And that would be for GOOD cells... VERY good cells might.... MIGHT, hold 3.9 or 4.0V/cell for a very short period of time at the beginning of the discharge cycle (first 20-30 seconds), but even that is a push...

    I do all my "guestimation" using 3.7V/Cell...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  24. #54
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    Thanks darrin, i was feeling too lazy to explain that lol

  25. #55
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    D-curve2.jpgAttachment 0
    Each cell of a LiPo has a nominal voltage rating of 3,7 Volt and a maximum charge voltage of 4,22 Volt (4,2V is standard).

    That means the LiPo is used in a "voltage-window" ranging between 3Volt and 4,2Volt.

    In contrary to a normal accumulator the voltage of the LiPo cells will not sink below 3 Volt !.

    If a cell is discharged below 3 Volt, this will cause irreparable damages. Afterwards a complete charging is not possible and its shelf life is very short.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mannytx1; 12-29-2012 at 11:18 AM.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mannytx1 View Post
    Attachment 0
    Each cell of a LiPo has a nominal voltage rating of 3,7 Volt and a maximum charge voltage of 4,22 Volt (4,2V is standard).

    That means the LiPo is used in a "voltage-window" ranging between 3Volt and 4,2Volt.

    In contrary to a normal accumulator the voltage of the LiPo cells will not sink below 3 Volt !.

    If a cell is discharged below 3 Volt, this will cause irreparable damages. Afterwards a complete charging is not possible and its shelf life is very short.
    okay… so the point here is?
    you still multiply by 3.7 to figure your rpm's

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by dana View Post
    okay… so the point here is?
    I'm wondering the same thing... Am I being told that all these years I've been doing it wrong??
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    I'm wondering the same thing... Am I being told that all these years I've been doing it wrong??
    apparently the other 99.9% of us here have been too darin… dont feel bad

  29. #59
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    DARIN JORDAN
    How many ships burn per year?

  30. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mannytx1 View Post
    DARIN JORDAN
    How many ships burn per year?
    well darrin? lol… what is going on here manny….?

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