So, having not had one of these new V2 versions in my hands personally, there are a few things I'd recommend users do to these in prep for running.

NOTE: Not sure how this stuff would impact the warrantee for these boats, so assume you are doing this at your own risk. I don't speak for Pro Boat, only myself, as a fellow R/C Boating enthusiast, who is trying to be helpful.

1) I don't like having all the wires and cooling lines zip-tied together like shown at the top of the picture by the ESC. I'd remove this tie, and run the water line up under the side of the deck.

2) I'd keep the motor wires separate from each other, or at minimum just run the loose, so they aren't touching each other and trapping heat.

3) I'd install some velcro to attach the ON/Off switch too, and also the NiMH/Lipo switch too. I usually lay mine up alongside the battery tray on the left side of the hull.

4) Make sure that the latch slot and the pin hole at the front of the hatch cover are sealed up under the deck.

5) I'd remove the "Y" harness from the ESC, and "series" the batteries to each other, then connect to the ESC with a single + and - contact of your choice, preferably something in the 5.5mm or larger size.

6) I'd go over ALL of the interior wood (after removing all the components) with a good epoxy, including where the wood is joined to the fiberglass. This is a standard "upgrade" for pretty much any RTR with wood in the interior, and will prevent mold from growing, as well as strengthen the joints, especially around the motor-mount area.


Also, this will obviously depend on your setup and battery configuration, but when I race my IM31, my 5000 mAh Thunder Power R/C 2S packs are in the battery tray, with their back end right about even with the forward end of the motor cutout in the battery tray to get the CG just about right... With everything setup correctly, they only vary a tad from this location, depending on the water conditions...