Hpr 06 / 115 build

[Chrisg81983]

I am building a Hpr 115 that I had gotten from Manuel here on the forum I must say he was very helpfull and is a great person to deal with. I will try to make this thread as detailed as I can for everyone to see but if I leave something out please feel free to ask.

My setup will be :
2x lehner 2240/7 with 6 connection points to run delta or wye
2x cc 200 Hv or 2x cc 240 lv not sure what ones to use I have both new for this build
Savox 1251 mg low profile servo
Hpr drives
Hpr rudder
Hrp motor mounts
Hpr low profile servo mount
Hpr lipo tray system
Motor collets from modellbaupirate one one of the most precise made in my op

Tip ::: Upon ordering a Hpr hull you must request the air scoop, and windshield. It no longer comes standard with the hull / hulls. So they are being sent with my new order, but I don't think there is a charge for them. According to Manuel many people were not using them they were just getting wasted.

[Chrisg81983]

Here's the hull and hardware for now
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339035753.247920.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339035769.573054.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339035800.474642.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Chrisg81983]

Today I got the drives mounted
For starters I made a exact template of the sponsons transom along with the hole for the drive in it's required spot for this I just used a 1/2 in marine grade ply it worked great and I added a 5 mm cf plate onto the transom of sponson here are the results

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036108.897679.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036130.469942.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036149.599244.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036170.538573.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036269.543464.jpg








Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Chrisg81983]

Next the rudder was installed by making a template out of double sided tape. The same method Manuel used on his build here on OSE. It worked perfect, but the pics might show it's a tad off because it's stuck on with the double side tape just to take a pic for u guys to see. Oh and I polished the blade up real quick, but still needs a final polish when boat is completed.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036840.441773.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339036708.674986.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Chrisg81983]

That's all I can do for now as I am waiting for the rest of the cf, and other parts. The motors should ship out any day now as well. If anyone has any questions / comments or info that I will need or that can help please let me know thanks for looking hope to get some feedback.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[liteumup69]

looking good Chris, Will defiantly follow the build, Did you settle on a epoxy?

Paul

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks
I have been in touch with Manuel about the epoxy, he is getting me a bunch of other parts for the build so when he sends them he is going to send the epoxy that he uses for his builds. Any place I found that has true epoxy resin will not ship to my location.

[sigelitest]

does the stinger use square ended cable to hook up.

[Chrisg81983]

No mike they don't we went over this I need to use the locktite retaining glue ( 603/638). Now I know how well u listen to me while we are on the phone. (LOL)

[Chrisg81983]

Here u can see what I mean the 3/16 or 4.75mm flex gets glued into the prop-shaft. Some may solder them as well I have used both methods. I find the locktite is easier to do but just requires a little more time. I will cook in oven for 1hr on 60 degrees celsius rotating half way through.


Here the top of drive is not mounted yet

[nata2run]

All very nice Chris... Getting out the popcorn for this one. Just wait, it wont be long till your back with the HPR135 LOL

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks
I know exactly what you are saying I wanted the 135 even before I got this one. Just figured I'd start here, but hey theres always room for one more.

[Remmie81]

Awesome Chris!

Regarding the propshaft and the flex here is how I do it (never lost a propshaft)
(maybe you know this already but could be helpfull to other people who read this)

Take rough sanding paper (eg grid 80) and roughen up the part of the flex that goes into the propshaft.
Then with grid 120 roughen up the innerside of the propshaft.
Clean the end of the flex and the innerside of propshaft with brake cleaner.

Take loctite 648 and fill the propshaft about 20% with it
Put Loctite 648 on the flex everywere were it will touch the propshaft.

Put the flex slowly into the propshaft while turning it to approx 1/3, this to make sure that any airbubbles can come out.
When you feel backpressure there is air trapped in the propshaft, keep turning untill the air comes out.
Now continue untill the flex reached the bottom of the propshaft.
Turn it for a few more times to make sure all air is out.

Now leave it standing on the propnut with flex to the sky for 24 hours and you are good to go.
Or like you said, put it in the oven for 1hr on 60 degrees celsius rotating half way through.

[nata2run]

Agree with the above, 648 is the way to go. I don't know how well solder works, but the cable will break before the glue. Use a flex saver or a collar around the cable just incase your collet lets go and you loose the whole drive with props and all.. Happened to me on my maiden... Really sucks waiting for new propshafts. I ordered 2 spares striaght up for the 138. Hmm only to discover the 2 were smaller and didn't fit a 3/16. Now have to wait for new ones.

[Prop-a-Gator]

Nice to see your build get going Chris. I never tire of following these. The polished blade is a nice touch. The sponson templates are a good idea. I wonder if it is something HPR could provide as standard if you buy their hull and drives - just something cheap, rigid and precise like laser cut ply. (just a hint if you're listening, Manuel )

[Chrisg81983]

@ Remmie thanks for the info, and how is your build coming along.

@ nata I as well ordered an extra set of cables, and prop shafts.

@ Gator the template I made was a huge help it's the best way that I thought of to ensure that both my drives are equal. The newer style drives from Hpr can be a little tricky to mount as you need to watch how low you mount them so the big brass nut on inside can thread on. It tool me a day before I grew the balls to drill this thing.

Thanks guys for the help and feedback
Chris

[nata2run]

Chris, you sound just like me building the 114. Your right it takes a bit of ball's to drill the holes. It was a natural thing for me to make all templates before drilling any holes as well. You should really make a template for everything your about to do. Just make one and mirror it, that way you know it's identical on both sides. I even made templates to cut out for the hydraulic, pull pull, pickups, everything.

Took me about a day as well, ball's grew so big I had to drill or they would burst LOL. This time it took 30 minutes.

[Chrisg81983]

Lol I hear that the worst part was the hole for the drives is 31/64 just about 1/2 inch. That's a big hole to mess up next is the hydraulics, but need to wait for Manuel to send them along with the rest of my parts. It took close to 4 hrs to get where I am at now. By the time I made all the templates along with testing, and fine tuning them it's probally more time than I kept track of.

[nata2run]

The way I see it, once drives are in that's the hull half way done "for me anyway" beyond that no fear "except on the water" edges of my little pond is concrete. It looks like you got the drives in ok so now it just lining up motors. The rudder should be easy enough. It's good you spend time thinking rather than just drilling left, right, center. Drill 1 hole and make it right the first time. Remember you can't make it too strong, use what ever you can to make it as strong as possible, even if you never crash your dealing with a lot of power,, and you don't want things/parts flying off. Plus of cause 40+k RPM, now hurry up LOL I'm running out of popcorn.

[Chrisg81983]

The rudder is complete I just need long enough bolts to go through the standoff because it's going to be filled with epoxy along with a cf plate on top but all the holes are done I am just waiting for Manuel to send the epoxy needed. To fill the standoff I was maybe going to use west systems epoxy.

[nata2run]

I think the west systems will do the job. Couldn't imagine only one type in the world will do the trick. :) plus, waiting is bad.

[liteumup69]

What will you use for stuffing tube, Teflon or no Teflon, I can't decide, Manuel use's Teflon, but a lot of guys here don't, I don't use it on my gas boats, but I don't care if a little water get's in them, These on the other hand :Praying, Also what prop combo are you going to try??
Paul

[Chrisg81983]

I will use Teflon as I find it always makes a smoother, quiter drive train. The key with Teflon is to have a very good quality cable, and Teflon. I am not saying that drive trains without Teflon don't work or are no good. I have many boats done both ways, and I like the Teflon better. I actually had maneul get me the brass, teflon, and cables as well.

[Chrisg81983]

Ok well I could not wait another 15 days for the rest of my parts along with the epoxy from Manuel. I ran out today and got the west systems resin, harder, and microfibers (a thickening agent). This way I could at least fill the rudder standoff with epoxy, and a cf plate. The only thing I need is the long 3mm bolts for attaching the rudder.
Here are some pics of the first pour. I filled about 3/4 of the way, and i am letting that get hard. I will then pour a light layer, and take the carbon plate and sit on top. Next I will fill the rest of the way leaving a very light layer of epoxy on top of the cf.

Attachment 78274
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339108617.173142.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339108649.266157.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339109126.335701.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[nata2run]

Very Nice,
This will definetly do the trick!!

[Chrisg81983]

I must say the west systems epoxy is very nice to work with


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Remmie81]

Looking good!!
Im not familiar with West systems but I assume its an A-Brand. So you are good with using this!!!

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks remmie e west systems was originally bought just for a few minor things on this build. I must say I am very happy with how it works. I will be using an epoxy made by a german manufacturer R & G for the rest of the build.

[Remmie81]

Hi Chris,
Im familiar with R&G. I know thats good stuff.
Keep us updated ;-)

[Chrisg81983]

I will do, but I am at a stand still for a few as I am waiting for my final shipment of parts to come in.