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Thread: Might want to start a new Fourm Topic!.. New from AquaCraft!

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    A quality 0.150 cable from OSE and an Octura flex hex coupler are standard upgrades. I changed my MC over to 0.187" cable - but I test it with stronger motors on occasion so I need the larger cable. For the stock limited motors the 0.150" cable is just fine.

    Oh, I don't run teflon in the stuffing tubes either - another thing to break/wear out. Use brass tubing a size smaller than stock - for 0.187" cable it's 1/4" OD tubing. You have to lube the cable anyway, might as well eliminate a potential for damage. In decades of running without teflon I've yet to wear out a brass stuffing tube...


    .
    I'm going to give that a try Jay..
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  2. #152
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    Apr 2011
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    tx
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    1,284

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    I just measured the new flex from the front of the drive dog to the collet end of the flex then cut it with a cut off wheel and tinned it. Works great.
    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  3. #153
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    Apr 2011
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    tx
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    I agree with not running a liner and do the same with my non rtr boats but for most folks a upgraded flex will work without having to replace the tube.
    white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1

  4. #154
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    TX
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    1,744

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    Quote Originally Posted by madness67203 View Post
    I ran mine yesterday for a timed 4mins. The batteries took 3300mah to top back off. The strut bushing slid out of the strut. I don't know of its suppose to do that or not. Any idea fellas?
    Yes,the brass bushing is suppose to "float" in and out and around. Just make sure you have gap 1/8" or so between the prop and the strut and you are fine.

  5. #155
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    40

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    Aquacraft needs to get their sub par flex cable problem sorted out ASAP!

    To people like us it's no big deal. The stock one is crap so we buy a better one from OFE.

    What about the other 99% of people that don't go onto forums. What about all the other people that buy this boat put it in the water and the flex shaft breaks on them.
    These people don't have time to do hours of due diligence on the web. They just paid good money for a boat that broke just feet from their dock. They want to buy a RTR boat and have it run without problems. They will jump ship FAST if these problems keep up.

    Not good for AQ in the long run.

    They need to fix the flex shaft issue's NOW.

    Especially since Pro boat seems to be stepping up. Have you seen their new website? It looks gorgeous! AQ needs to get their SH*T together fast.

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    On
    Posts
    64

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    Quote Originally Posted by NissanGTR View Post
    Aquacraft needs to get their sub par flex cable problem sorted out ASAP! To people like us it's no big deal. The stock one is crap so we buy a better one from OFE. What about the other 99% of people that don't go onto forums. What about all the other people that buy this boat put it in the water and the flex shaft breaks on them.These people don't have time to do hours of due diligence on the web. They just paid good money for a boat that broke just feet from their dock. They want to buy a RTR boat and have it run without problems. They will jump ship FAST if these problems keep up. Not good for AQ in the long run.They need to fix the flex shaft issue's NOW. Especially since Pro boat seems to be stepping up. Have you seen their new website? It looks gorgeous! AQ needs to get their SH*T together fast.
    Not just an aq issue. I just picked up an impulse since me revolt got back ordered and the flex cable snapped the first time out, and the wires on the stock electronics are pretty wimpy. I think all rtr's have their issues, same as cars and trucks.
    H&M Drifter L, AC Lightning Cat and a Graupner Jet Sprint waiting to be built

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by NissanGTR View Post
    Aquacraft needs to get their sub par flex cable problem sorted out ASAP!

    To people like us it's no big deal. The stock one is crap so we buy a better one from OFE.

    What about the other 99% of people that don't go onto forums. What about all the other people that buy this boat put it in the water and the flex shaft breaks on them.
    These people don't have time to do hours of due diligence on the web. They just paid good money for a boat that broke just feet from their dock. They want to buy a RTR boat and have it run without problems. They will jump ship FAST if these problems keep up.

    Not good for AQ in the long run.

    They need to fix the flex shaft issue's NOW.

    Especially since Pro boat seems to be stepping up. Have you seen their new website? It looks gorgeous! AQ needs to get their SH*T together fast.
    LOL
    soooo, once again this is about your MC not the Revolt right?
    many are having great results on the stock flex shafts including me..
    and it's not just me who thinks this but many who believe that AQ has got there stuff together!
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ma
    Posts
    8,693

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    The boat I played with had lots of movement in the mount because of the rubber mounting pads. I didnt get to read all the posts, but one thing I would suggest is adding a wedge under the motor to stop it from bouncing.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    fl
    Posts
    32

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    I switched all of mine out and just got a chance to run it. My opinion is that it makes a difference. I added 5mm thrust bearing, flex cable from OSE with a shorter shaft, better bushing,
    3mm water lines, and a 5mm octura collet. Just have to switch out the connectors to 5.5 bullets when they get here. No chine walk at all running two 2c 5000mah 40c side by side.
    Thanks,Eric

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingjunky View Post
    I switched all of mine out and just got a chance to run it. My opinion is that it makes a difference. I added 5mm thrust bearing, flex cable from OSE with a shorter shaft, better bushing,
    3mm water lines, and a 5mm octura collet. Just have to switch out the connectors to 5.5 bullets when they get here. No chine walk at all running two 2c 5000mah 40c side by side.
    Thanks,Eric
    Flyingjunky,

    Did you have to change out all of your fittings to move to 3mm water lines?

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    fl
    Posts
    32

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    No,
    I just hit the back with my dremmel to open it up just a tad. Not much but just enough to get it through. Only thing is it does not flow as fast as the stock lines did. I have read so many confliting stories on that subect and not sure what to go by. if anyone knows let me know. The water does come out and even at a moderate speed it still runs, just not as free flowing as with the stock tubing. One would think that with a thicker wall (3mm) the water can not travel as fast as with the stock line so I am guessing it's ok. Temp was good after both runs. I also added an inline cooler between the esc and motor.
    Thanks,Eric
    Last edited by flyingjunky; 06-27-2012 at 08:37 PM.

  12. #162
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    1,744

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Just to qualify.. I have only ever run this on 4S.. (or P)

    I have run it up to 48mph on the props WE sell.. BTY the L45X68 is not to bad on the boat..


    Grim
    Quick question. I bought the prop you recommended here, but I am wondering whether it is "too much". If I do the math this prop would have a pitch of 2.68". A m447 has a pitch of like 2.59" or so. Is my math wrong? I am just checking to see if this prop will work or if it will just "pop" my esc? Your thoughts?
    Last edited by electric; 07-06-2012 at 10:35 AM.

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