Finally scored one- setting up for NAMBA P-Ltd Cat Sprint race

[properchopper]

Tony.. looked stuck.. the RPMs seemed a tick off too.. make sure you round the bottom of the rudder blade.

Cool vid! Did you see the one I did for Scott Roman.. allbeit all stock its really running well.

Here it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ucNxF6VyX8&feature=plcp&context=C47052b5VDvjVQa1PpcFP7moHPTLJNvLHSq3yIJF0pvakVq7_G_Yg%3D

Keep the info coming.

Grim

Good ear. Just discovered timing was set to 7 degrees. Reprogrammed to 11 degrees - sounds better on bench.

[Grimracer]

roger that..

Grim

[Darin Jordan]

[properchopper]

Those were Tyler's EXACT words to me at the launch during a P-Mono heat (Tyler in Yellow, Me in White); watch (and listen to his voice) at exactly 1:46 in the vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0ixeztr-wE

[Darin Jordan]

Hahahahahaha! This is going to be FUN!

[runzwithsizorz]

Tony.. looked stuck.. the RPMs seemed a tick off too.. *make sure you round the bottom of the rudder blade.
*
Cool vid! Did you see the one I did for Scott Roman.. allbeit all stock its really running well.

Here it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ucNxF6VyX8&feature=plcp&context=C47052b5VDvjVQa1PpcFP7moHPTLJNvLHSq3yIJF0pvakVq7_G_Yg%3D

Keep the info coming.

Grim

Please explain more, round the entire bottom, or just the leading edge? Was about to do the latter, figuring it would reduce the chance of snagging, and holding onto weeds etc. But was warned against doing so by members here, and a
rudder manufacturer. Was told the bottom should remain squared, and flat, "to reduce lift, and drag".

[properchopper]

Please explain more, round the entire bottom, or just the leading edge? Was about to do the latter, figuring it would reduce the chance of snagging, and holding onto weeds etc. But was warned against doing so by members here, and a
rudder manufacturer. Was told the bottom should remain squared, and flat, "to reduce lift, and drag".

Can't guarantee this is the correct shape, but this is how I did it for the MC

DSC03156.JPG

[properchopper]

Pretty sure I found the "sweet spot"

By applying ancient Oriental practice of "Too-ning" (taught to me by Masters Darin-San and Brian-San) got first number on GPS to read "5" (other number not to be revealed because of secret pact with underground Spirit ).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RWB9wSlyMU

This will be a fun race even for driving-impared peeps like me

[detox]

445 prop? Did you bend the prop in any way?

[siberianhusky]

Lookin' good! They do run nice when dialed in. Just got my first run in on the weekend with my Drifter S. Fast right off the bench with a lot more to come once it's had some tuning voodoo.
Your rudder is done about the same as mine, I ditched the stock crap motor mount and went with a standard glue in style, trimmed the stuffing tube cause I moved the motor back closer to the "hump", then added a pair of rails. Really stiffened up the floor of the tub, lol you can adjust the strut without the inboard end of the stuffing tube moving. Now you can pick up the boat by the motor and give it a good shake, nothing moves or bends. My stock motor mount bent in an about 50 mph crash with the stock setup.
Also ditched the plastic braces inside the hatch and went with some carbon rod as well as another layer of glass, no stuffed in hatches since that mod.
Glad the finish on your is good, I wish I had a later version, mine is really rough.
All that aside I think the boat runs great, and fast with some tweaking and tuning!
Guess it really comes down to not being a RTR kind of guy, I like things my way and done to my standards which are higher than mass production will allow.

[Doby]

Looks good Tony, now just get it running when there's a bit of consistent ripples on the water and she will loosen up a bit more for a bit more top end.

[properchopper]

445 prop? Did you bend the prop in any way?

Yup; just pitched it up a teensy bit with a "tip tweak" - kind of a "poor man's mod" - I'm still a little lost in the art of prop magic

DSC03157.JPG


Temps seem ok with the upgraded cooling - a 445 on some spec powered hulls get the motor quite hot. I still need to do a full 2.5 min test to confirm that temps will be sustainable for a full race..

[properchopper]

Looks good Tony, now just get it running when there's a bit of consistent ripples on the water and she will loosen up a bit more for a bit more top end.

With seven boats entered in the P-Ltd Cat Sprint class , there'll be enough ripples to keep things loose . Actually, it's a bit of a challange to set up/predict how handling in racewater will be while testing with just one boat on the water. Our P-Ltd Sport Hydro and P-Mono heats being run during the H20 Gasser events occur in between the big gasser heats and the water is rife with rollers, freak waves, whirlpools and holes which keep things uber-loose

[properchopper]

Lookin' good! They do run nice when dialed in. Just got my first run in on the weekend with my Drifter S. Fast right off the bench with a lot more to come once it's had some tuning voodoo.
Your rudder is done about the same as mine, I ditched the stock crap motor mount and went with a standard glue in style, trimmed the stuffing tube cause I moved the motor back closer to the "hump", then added a pair of rails. Really stiffened up the floor of the tub, lol you can adjust the strut without the inboard end of the stuffing tube moving. Now you can pick up the boat by the motor and give it a good shake, nothing moves or bends. My stock motor mount bent in an about 50 mph crash with the stock setup.
Also ditched the plastic braces inside the hatch and went with some carbon rod as well as another layer of glass, no stuffed in hatches since that mod.
Glad the finish on your is good, I wish I had a later version, mine is really rough.
All that aside I think the boat runs great, and fast with some tweaking and tuning!
Guess it really comes down to not being a RTR kind of guy, I like things my way and done to my standards which are higher than mass production will allow.

I'm with you on the motor mount thing ! I just found out that the motor mount can easily flex forward, and coupled with what I discovered as a loose front motor endbell and insufficient (looked good on bench) dog-to-strut clearance, look what
happened when the dog met the strut:

DSC03159.JPG

I'm taking the easy way out and reinforcing the stock mount to keep it flexing forward - a bottom mount, as you correctly observed needs the flexible bottom to be reinforced but it seems the stock mount is secure on the sides and should stay put once reinforced. Some CF plate should do the trick - doing it today and will post.

DSC03160.JPG

[Darin Jordan]

Tony, not a bad idea, but that's still a pretty wide expanse to make rigid in that plane... You might consider doing something with some angle to "I-Beam" the mount instead... or simply make a couple of longitudinal braces for it to attach to the mount and down to the bottom of the hull... That's how I'd proceed... Then, once that was rigid, I'd cut those damn side pieces out and give myself some room in there without the lateral pieces spanning the interior... (In other words... I'd take that motor mount out and put in an OSE style one... )

But, that's just me... :D