G10 fiberglass for rails in a mono?

[CanAmAB]

Has anyone used G10 material for rails in a mono? I have 1/8th thick material and am thinking of using it instead of plywood.

Any reason not to?

[JimClark]

Don't see why you couldn't

[m4a1usr]

G10 has decent material strength characteristics. It would be a good canditate. But I wouldnt use a single piece of .125" on a large hull. Maybe if you used a bottom bracket to make it like an L bracket? The problem is 1/8th is so narrow. Without stiffners it could flex. Or put a decent layer of FG/CF each side to the hull?

John

[Old Sloppy]

John,

You are out of your mind if you think 1/8" g10 is too narrow. ( I mean this in a friendly way) it is actually too thick,( IMO) perhaps 1/16" would be a better match for strength and stiffness.

Please don't be angry with me, I have used 1/8" G10 for motor mounts with twin 370 Pletts ( later up-dated to 1/8" Aluminum for heat asorbtion reasons) this is overkill in reguard to thickness & stiffness.

I am refering to my 60" long Offshore Cat. the 1/8" G10 is the stiffest/least flexable part of the entire hull.

I might use it for the transom, you would have a battleship stiff transom however.

Harry
from Atlanta

[CanAmAB]

The hull I am considering this for is an Aeromarine Titan 33". I will be using the Castle 1717-1500kv motor with a stinger. My understanding of the interface with the hull is that in the fore/aft direction, the stiffness will be very high due to the edge-mounted orientation regardless if I use plywood or a stiff material like the G10. If I lay say a 1-inch wide additional layer of glass or CF between the bottom and the rail, that would 'distribute' a little better. The strength of the non-supported bottom will still be many times weaker (more flexible) than the area in contact or near the contact line of the rails. I guess the risk associated is valued at about the cost of a hull...

Again, I was only considering it because I already have the G10 material and thought the black would match the G10 custom motor mount and the CF bottom in that part of the boat. If there is a strong concensus that 1/4 plywood would be the better choice, I will go with the opinion of the experienced boaters since I am new at this. If the thoughts are on both sides of the fence, I'll let you know how it works out...

I really appreciate the feedback.

[detox]

G10 is too expensive to waste on something like that. 1/8 plywood reinforced with heavy weave fiberglass and epoxy is good enough.

[JIM MARCUM]

G10 is great stuff for motor mounts. One layer of 1/8" G10, attached to the hull with 1/2" fiberglass tape & epoxy resin should be fine. DON'T use Polyester resin! It won't stick to the G10 epoxy. JIM

[m4a1usr]

John,

You are out of your mind if you think 1/8" g10 is too narrow. ( I mean this in a friendly way) it is actually too thick,( IMO) perhaps 1/16" would be a better match for strength and stiffness.

Please don't be angry with me, I have used 1/8" G10 for motor mounts with twin 370 Pletts ( later up-dated to 1/8" Aluminum for heat asorbtion reasons) this is overkill in reguard to thickness & stiffness.

I am refering to my 60" long Offshore Cat. the 1/8" G10 is the stiffest/least flexable part of the entire hull.

I might use it for the transom, you would have a battleship stiff transom however.

Harry
from Atlanta

No worries Harry. We go back many years you and me. My only experience with G10 is for some skin covering on a hydro I own. My worry was the OP would glue it down and not install some lateral reinforcements to keep it from flexing longitudnal. You can call me what you want. I wont take it personally :)

John

[Old Sloppy]

It's not the G10 material , it's the 1/8" thickness.
I would use 1/8" thick plywood, but G10 is 3 times as stiff/strong.
I thought that you thought that 1/8" was too narrow.

Harry

[Fluid]

G-10 works fine for motor mounts, but 3/16" plywood works just as well. I wonder why you would buy the Titan 40 without stringers, the factory installed plywood stringers are great. We have five Titan 40s in the club and all but one have the factory stringers. My advice - why do it yourself when the factory does it for free?



.

[CanAmAB]

The titan 33 from OSE did not have stringers. I have decided to go with 1/4 ply stringers and the g10 motor mount. Hopefully i can get the stringers made and installed this evening.

What is standard spacing? 4" or 5" between the stringers?

[runzwithsizorz]

I would go with 4", that way you could put your batteries in between, OR on the outside. Also, the support is evenly spaced. You may also want to leave a hole back were the rail
joins with the transome for drainage.

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[Captain Tom]

I have G10 on the ride pads of my UL-1

[HOTWATER]

G10 is great stuff! also use it on the transoms of my boats.....

[tlandauer]

Sorry for being so uninitiated: what is G10 and where can you get it? I have heard of it and when I was doing my build in July I was looking for it but couldn't find any, used ply wood instead. I would appreciate if someone doesn't mind the time to give a little info here to me.
Thanks!

[Old Sloppy]

Sorry for being so uninitiated: what is G10 and where can you get it? I have heard of it and when I was doing my build in July I was looking for it but couldn't find any, used ply wood instead. I would appreciate if someone doesn't mind the time to give a little info here to me.
Thanks!

G-10 is fiberglass that is molded into a flat plate, most times it is compression moulded, both sides are quite smooth. In my case the plate was 12" by 18" by 1/8" thick.

Harry

[Old Sloppy]

You may also want to leave a hole back were the rail
joins with the transome for drainage.

The drainage is nice, I sometimes route my servo wires thru there, it makes the wiring look neat and tidy.

Harry

[properchopper]

Sorry for being so uninitiated: what is G10 and where can you get it? I have heard of it and when I was doing my build in July I was looking for it but couldn't find any, used ply wood instead. I would appreciate if someone doesn't mind the time to give a little info here to me.
Thanks!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3616/=jamway

[HOTWATER]

Tony....you beat me to it...lol!

Mcmaster is THE place to go for all kinds of cool stuff....kinda brings the creativity out of you just looking at all of the neat things they have!

Always very quick shipping from them...just like Steven does for us here at OSE....

[tlandauer]

Thank you Harry and Tony! Really appreciate your taking the time to point me the right place! Book marking this site right now!

[detox]

IMO the G10 is overkill. Regular plywood is lots cheaper and strong enough to get the job done. Epoxy also bonds to plywood better.

Although G10 does make a verygood ride pad surface on hydros...along with carbon fiber plate.

[HOTWATER]

......and works beautifully as servo mounting trays!! No worries about sealing it to waterproof it....good to go!



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[HOTWATER]

....bulkheads too...


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[tlandauer]

I was using a Peter Z mount, wanted to make rails out of it, although at that time I thought G stands for graphite, some sort of hi-tech carbon fibre. I wanted to make something similar to this mount since I was also using the stuffing tube support.http://kintecracing.com/Pursuit.html Anyway, ply wood worked but it is good to know and see how the G 10 can be used. Thanks.

[KartRacer]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3616/=jamway

Thanks for the link. Interesting product. I'll have to order some.

[CanAmAB]

Using a cheap wet tile saw such as one from harbor freight works well to keep the dust at a min. It's not good to breath fiberglass dust. I use the G10 and it is good stuff.