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Thread: I know nothing.

  1. #1
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    Default I know nothing.

    Hi, I am new to this forum and to the hobby so new I have not put the boat in the water yet. I have always liked the Idea of a RC boat so I found one on Craig's list that seemed like a good deal. A Supervee 27 green with 2- lipo 2s 5000mah 30c packs. I payed $200.00 for it I hope I didn't get taken. My main question is how do I tell if the ESC has a lipo cut off? My second question is any advise that you think I should know I would greatly appreciate. From the youtube videos I watched on the boat I hope I did not start out over my head. thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Use the search option above and read the Ready To Run forums.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Few Things:
    1. If the SV27 you have has blue hardware then it's the older model with no LIPO cut off. Not sure if the newer model (black hardware) has Lipo cut off or not.
    2. Check the prop. If it is a brass color check to see what the number is on it. Like x440, m440 etc. If it is m445 or x445, you may want to consider a smaller prop.
    3. Put it in the bath tube and check for leaks. Water is your enemy.
    4. You need a device to check how much of the battery you have used up in a given run so you can estimate a bit on you run time. Will post a link for that for a moment. Another way is to run the boat about 3 or 4 minutes. Bring it in and check to see how hot everything is and then recharge the batteries and see how many MAH's you have to put back in during the charge. This will give you an idea how much of the battery capacity you used up. You want to use no more than 70% or so.
    5. I have been running these with my family members and we just bring them in the moment we notice a slight reduction in top speed and we seem to get it pretty right as far as using up battery capacity. Can be a bit risky though.
    6. Great boat to start with and you paid a fair price if it is in good condition.
    7. These boats are fast and fun, but also do flip quite a bit. Have a plan on how you are going to get your boat back from the middle of the pond.

  4. #4
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    Here it is. This guy is awesome. Shows you if your cells are balanced, shows you voltage and even shows you percentage of capacity left like a cars fuel gauge. And you can pull your boat over and just check it while you are are on the lake. Remember to ALWAYS tape your lid down.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=emp-Sentry

    One more thing, you need to grease the driveshaft with this.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=dh-aqub9500

    What I do, is pull the shaft and dry it off and re-grease it so that it is ready next time I go out.
    Last edited by electric; 03-22-2012 at 12:28 PM.

  5. #5
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    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hld-32&cat=136

    here is exactly what you need to use an esc without cutoff with lipo batteries.
    Since you`re just starting out this is a much easier solution with much less chance of getting it wrong and ruining a set of batteries.
    With 5000mah packs an Octura x440/3 (3 bladed prop) will give you a safe 3 minutes runtime at speeds about 38 mph with a properly set up boat.
    Shouldn't be any heat problems at all as long as the cg is set right, strut angle at 0 or flat, rudder tucked in tight to the transom and turn fins straight up and down.
    Mine is the same as yours, this is a good safe sport setup, been running it for a few years now, everything is original. My favorite boat, it just keeps going and going, never a problem.
    With a bigger prop it will go much faster but you have to be very careful about the setup, get it wrong and it will heat something up, probably the esc will go first.
    If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

  6. #6
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    Mar 2012
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    Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I will look things over when I get home. The boat looks to be in good condition a few small scratches on the bottom everything else look like new. I will pick up the grease and tape for the hatch and put it in the tub tonight. Husky thanks for the set up tips I need to learn what they all mean but it will be a big help. I can only expect to get 3 min out of a charge? thats a little disappointing I was hopping for a lot longer. I'm more interested in run time then I am in speed. I don't plan on racing just going out and having some fun.

  7. #7
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    I'm probably a bit more cautious than some with my batteries, I've never run them down far enough for the low voltage cutoff to kick in. You could probably get another minute out of my setup easily.
    And smaller prop will give you more runtime at the expense of speed.
    I suppose things would be a little different if I didn't have running buddies, we set out a course and race for 3 minutes at a time. LOL 3 minutes of full on racing is harder than you think, the excitement really kicks in!
    A decent charger and 3 sets of batteries can pretty much keep you running for a full afternoon. Gotta let things cool off between runs and maybe do a bit of tuning, and always have a pair of batteries charging.
    If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

  8. #8
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    I do have a lipo charger but it only does 1 battery at a time so I'm looking at about 2 hrs just to charge a pair of batteries. If I want to put the smallest prop to give me the most run time what size would you recommend?

  9. #9
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    If you use a smaller prop you'll slow down and increase run time.

    Keeping a 20% reserve is generally considered a good target on the lipos-- I think 30 is overkill.

    I bet you could get 4-5min if you prop down and target 20%.


    Chief

  10. #10
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    I don't have an sv, but I do have a 29" mono which is pretty close in size. My "hot" prop is an x442, I get 4 min with that.

    I would try a x438 or x440. If you go too small the prop will cavitate and have a hard time getting on plane.

    Chief

  11. #11
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    OK I water tested the boat in the tub and it leaks. I don't even know what the L shaped taps are called on either side of the rear but the screws on the right side are leaking. I can not find any markings on the prop so I don't know what size it is. I attempted to post photos below I hope it works.




  12. #12
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    Decent looking ol' boat there.................the "L" thingys are trim tabs, they are to be adjusted up or down the get the boat riding level. The Reciever looks ancient, get yourself a 2.4ghz radio, they are becoming very affordable now.
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

  13. #13
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    If its the trim tab hole that's leaking how do I stop it?

  14. #14
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    You can use silicon sealant if it is just plugging/sealing the hole. But only use it for things like this as the fumes generated when it cures can corrode electronics.

    If you had a big crack, you would use epoxy or fiberglass cloth + epoxy for repairs.

    Chief

  15. #15
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    Don't use silicone, use one of the latex sealants like Mono. Silicone gets into the surface of the gelcoat and makes repairs very hard as nothing bonds to silicone. Even paint will fisheye.
    You can never fully remove the stuff.
    You should take all the hardware off and put some sealant behind it, avoids problems at the pond when you find something else is leaking!
    Happens to all fiberglass boats, no big problem.
    If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

  16. #16
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    Thanks a lot, I will look for the mono sealant and pull everything off and reseal. Do you know if the battery's are hooked up in series or parallel. I am not sure if the motor runs on 7.4V or 14.8V.

  17. #17
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    series 14.8V. Easy to do with bullet connectors, no added wiring needed.
    If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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  19. #19
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    Nice boat. Thanks for the photos. What voltage does the boat need to run? If I put 2 3s 5000mha packs can I run in parallel and get more run time or is 11.1v not enough power?

  20. #20
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    NO 11.1 is not enough, it need 14.8 to even arm the esc. I run two 2s 4000 and 5000 lipos in series, and get 4-5 minutes run time.

  21. #21
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    I can't see why you only get 4 or 5 min out of 2 5000mha battery's. I get like 40 min out of my rc car with 1 5000. I guess a boat draws that much more power.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnumdivr View Post
    I can't see why you only get 4 or 5 min out of 2 5000mha battery's. I get like 40 min out of my rc car with 1 5000. I guess a boat draws that much more power.
    4-5 minutes is about what folks get on 1p setups. A boat is drawing max amperage all the time, and when coming out of corners it's spiking even higher!! Cars coast and arent run full throttle all the time.
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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