Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 37

Thread: Find The Mounting Holes For Second Trim Tabs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    775

    Default Find The Mounting Holes For Second Trim Tabs

    This is nothing new for us old dog Spartan owners, but I saw an inquiry on this just a couple days ago.

    Since i was locating and opening the holes while setting up my new hull, I thought I'd snap a couple photos to help out some of the newer Spartan owners.

    Sorry for the poor quality pics, I was in a bit of a hurry.

    Procedure:
    1. In a dim lit or darkened room shine a bright flashlight on the transom from inside the hull
    2. Locate the "donut" on the outside of the hull
    3. Use a sharp awl to puncture, or carefully drill out, the center of the "donut" through the hull to open access to the molded bolt recesses.
    NOTE: Be careful not to drill too deep

    NOTE: Lubricate threads on bolts, preferably with a non-petroleum based lubricant, before threading into hull. This will reduce/eliminate galling the plastic into the threads and will allow for easy removal.





    Kevin
    Last edited by dag-nabit; 06-21-2012 at 09:56 AM. Reason: Additional info

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Thanks for the info of trim tabs. I tried it. It works. Al Patte.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Finally thank god!!! Thank you man.. Im gonna go to the shop today and do this mod for sure!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Great info! Thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Yeah it really works. Good stuff.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Excellent job on showing people how to find thoes other mounting holes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Thx

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Cl
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Thank you Kevin followed the instructions for finding trim tab holes and it worked great, i was a bit cagey about going in with a sharp pointed driver but once done it was just great.

    Regards Keith

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    will adding 2 more trim tabs help in the achoring the rear of the boat for chine walking?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Cl
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Well i done mine on friday night and sailed on saturday with it and the difference was unbelievable no more rocking about steady as it should be once you get them set right.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    did you angle the inner ones down or up? what about the outer ones?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Cl
    Posts
    26

    Default

    All four in line just about level with the hull.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    how do the trim tabs you added closer to the strut help? so they all shouldnt be bent up or down?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    16

    Default

    The inner tabs (closest to the strut) are the ones that will be in use at high speeds when the boat is up on plane. Bend or adjust them down as needed to assist with chine walk, no more than 1 mm at a time and just test your runs with the batteries in the same position.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    orca, can you tell me how each of the 4 trim tabs should be? angled up or down? 1mm? and why?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    what if I take off outer trim tabs and move them in on spots closer to strut and just have the inner ones??

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    16

    Default

    You should add the additional set of inner trim tabs to help stabilize and minimize chine walk at higher speeds, 45 + mph. Alot depends on where you place your batteries and the weight of the batteries you are using.

    Start with the trim tabs level with the bottom of the boat and move (bend) the inner ones first. There is alot of trial and error here.

    Maybe to help, chine walk occurs when there is very little of the boat in the water and it is running on a very small portion of the hull. Once the boat gets byond this it will fall to one side and then bounces to the other side, hence chine walking.

    You may also try to accelerate slower, make sure there is no play or slop in the rudder and the strut.

    The causes of chine walk are many and the cures are few.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    should i bend the inner ones down or up?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    if im just using outer tabs right now, should i bend those up or down too?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    16

    Default

    If you are using the outer tabs only you will not need to adjust thoes as they are most likely not in the water when your boat begins to chine walk.

    The inner tabs, once you have them installed, should be left in the neutral position and if needed adjust down.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    if I drill out the second set of holes for trim tabs, what will the screws dig into then?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Do not drill out the holes for the screws.... Go back and view dag-nabits post #1 of this thread.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Cl
    Posts
    26

    Default

    When i did it on my Spartan i did it with a pointed small screwdriver and just rotated it into the hull untill i had a hole big enough to take the screw, i then just screwed the screw and it finds the hidden threads inside and screws in, i then just had to line up the trim tab and do the same for the second hole. This task is dead easy believe me i was amazed how easy it was.The Spartan must have been molded for a second set of trim tabs to be added when made.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    should i bent down the outer tabs too guys?

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by orca View Post
    Do not drill out the holes for the screws.... Go back and view dag-nabits post #1 of this thread.
    You may want to reread his post yourself. He said if you drill be careful not to drill to deep.

    3. Use a sharp awl to puncture, or carefully drill out, the center of the "donut" through the hull to open access to the molded bolt recesses.*!**NOTE:*!**Be careful not to drill deep.
    Last edited by thebomber; 06-20-2012 at 08:58 PM.

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    I just want to know how you guys took out existing trim tabs, there hard to get out to bend??

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    775

    Default

    The plastic is often galled into the threads on the bolts from factory installation without using some type of thread lubricant.

    It can be very difficult to remove the screws, AND, there is a risk of stripping the threads out of the plastic if badly galled.

    After removal, clean all the plastic out of the threads and then lubricate before re-installation. It is preferable to use a non-petroleum based lube. 100% synthetic, bees wax, or even vegetable oil. Petroleum based lubricants may dry and crack the plastic over time.

    Kevin

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    141

    Default

    what did you use to remove the screws, allen driver by hand, allen bit on drill?

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    775

    Default

    I use both, but the factory installed bolts are often too tight for my Allen bit in the driver. It is a round shaft,not hex, and often slips in the chuck when trying to do the initial extraction.

    Once they are out, and I have had a chance to lubricate them, they run in and out nicely with the driver.

    I have had a couple that were so tight they stripped out the Allen head, and have required backing them out 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time with a vise grip..

    Kevin

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    775

    Default

    I use both, but the factory installed bolts are often too tight for my Allen bit in the driver. It is a round shaft,not hex, and often slips in the chuck when trying to do the initial extraction.

    Once they are out, and I have had a chance to lubricate them, they run in and out nicely with the driver.

    I have had a couple that were so tight they stripped out the Allen head, and have required backing them out 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time with a vise grip. Unfortunately when they are this tough to get out, the threads in the plastic are usually too far gone to reuse the original bolt.

    Kevin

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •