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Thread: CC 1480-1800kv vs Leopard 4082 1800kv

  1. #31
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    Default All hooked up and ready to go!

    Got the Leopard wired up and ready to go! Just waiting on my Wohlt drive wires and will be ready to test. My servo extensions should be in today as well so I can adjust the timing and use the RX battery without breaking the water-tight seal on the RX box. I'll post some results once I get some runs in.




  2. #32
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    Default

    Be sure to get some vids and speed readings if you can. Curious to see how the hull will handle the additional hp with the right prop.

  3. #33
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    First time out to test a few things. The biggest concern was temperature. Everything was cool to the touch, but I didn't run all that long. Here are all the changes since my last run.
    - Speedmaster Stinger/Strut
    - Wohlt .078 Wire Drive
    - Leopard 4082 1800kv
    - RX battery pack
    I was getting some major chine at WOT so I have to adjust the strut some. It's about 1/2" longer than the stock strut so all the geometry is different. Boat sounds amazing. Of course the collet for the wire drive started slipping and cut my run short. The upside is HUGE. Loads of grease on the shaft. No water in the hull AT ALL. Once I get the batteries and strut dialed in, I can see 60mph being no problem at all. I've got the timing set at 3.75* and I'll adjust that once I get the hull straightened out. Any ideas on the best way to keep the wire drive from slipping in the collet??

  4. #34
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    I haven't had any issues with the wire drive slipping. Obviously make sure it is tight enough, but don't over tighten. I cracked the collet nut on mine over tightening it.

    You could try scuffing up the end of the wire with some sandpaper. I would recommend not too much, just enough to eliminate the "surface shine" on the wire to give the surface a bit more grip.

    Kevin

  5. #35
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    Went out to test while the water was smooth this morning. Everything checked out good. I got the wire drive sorted out with a little locktite on the coupler threads. It was brand new first time out and may not have been all the way locked down. Here are the results from this mornings test.

    Setup: Leopard 4082 1800kv, Seaking 180a (7.5* advance), Octura x442 S/B, Wohlt .078 Wire drive, Speedmaster 3/16" strut.
    Hull: Strut up 1mm, Trim tabs level, batteries 85% forward.
    Batteries: Zippy 5000mAh 40C 6s1p, 2000mAh RX battery.
    Max Speed: 50.9mph GPS
    Temps: ESC 85.9*, Motor 91*, Caps 87*, Batteries 118* <---

    All and all, I was pretty satisfied. Still need to find out where 7mph went (I got 57.9 on stock components before ESC fried). I adjusted the strut up 1* and got some of the wobble out, but not much. Dag-nabit, I know you have a lot of experience with tuning this hull so any input is appreciated. It gets pretty violent at WOT. I'm going to pull everything apart to inspect, but I think everything should be on the up and up. I've ordered Kintec's rudder for the Spartan to see if a little more rudder in the water will help the chine as well.

    On a side note, if you haven't picked up a spark eliminator from Kintec Racing yet, you should definitely check it out. It will save your connectors.
    Last edited by GTRhino24; 03-08-2012 at 11:49 AM.

  6. #36
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    Dec 2011
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    Default New Rudder = No Chine Walk

    Well, experimenting with the new setup to get some speed without loss of control. I decided to try out Kintec Racing's 5" rudder to see if I could get the hull out of the water without chine walking. I managed to get 50.1mph with no chine. It still seems that the Leopard isn't getting the RPM that the stock motor was achieving. I'm still experimenting with timing and I think I'm going to back it down a tick or two. I moved the strut up 1mm and moved the batteries to the middle straps. I'm thinking that the rudder might actually be too big so I may end up shaving off an inch. I still benefit from the beefier bracket. Is the rudder too close to the prop? I'm concerned that it may be in the thrust cone. I have about 1/4" to play with.




  7. #37
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    your 57 mph run may not have been totaly correct. how many times did you gps it before you fried the stock stuff? yes i would say with that motor on 6s it should do better than 50…. i like all the nice hardware you put on there

  8. #38
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    I had been GPS-ing every run from 4s to 5s to 6s getting steady increases. I ran 6s on the stock setup twice before frying the ESC (bulged caps but still ran). The water was perfect that morning and I don't doubt it was moving that fast because of the video. I was only able to get 53 on the same setup once I changed to the HW Seaking 180a. Now with the new strut, motor, drivewire, and rudder, I'm getting 50mph. Like I posted earlier, it doesn't seem to have the high pitch scream that it had. I'm thinking about getting an Eagletree so I can better understand what's going on. Here is the run that hit 57.3mph on the old (stock) setup. Forgive the theatrics as I send these to my family for entertainment.

    http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/...6sFirstRun.mp4

  9. #39
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    i see what you mean. i would think on 6s it would have a higher pitch whine than that. i wonder whats going on…

  10. #40
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    heres my t29 with 3674 1700kv on 5s2p. 48mph consistantly. your def should be faster
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYWeEdz-Keo
    your rpms do seem to sound a little low considering mine is almost the same pitch whine yours is making, only im running less voltage and a larger prop

  11. #41
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    youre def getting more rpm than i, but still seems low for your setup

  12. #42
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    Jan 2008
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    Not sure what prop but you can prop up with a leo motor. Also, your weight have probably changed as well. Did you get a set screw coupler or Octura from me? Set screw needs slight flat on it.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wohlt View Post
    Not sure what prop but you can prop up with a leo motor. Also, your weight have probably changed as well. Did you get a set screw coupler or Octura from me? Set screw needs slight flat on it.
    I am using the Octura coupler I got from you. The drive wire slipped my first time out because I didn't get the collet tight enough. It's been perfect since then. I'm using a S/B x442. I'm wondering if my solder joints suck. I've never been great at it, but I've also never had to solder 10awg. One thing sticks out in all of this. My connectors from ESC to motor are 130* when everything else is relatively mild. Could that be causing that big of a loss?

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by dana View Post
    heres my t29 with 3674 1700kv on 5s2p. 48mph consistantly. your def should be faster
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYWeEdz-Keo
    your rpms do seem to sound a little low considering mine is almost the same pitch whine yours is making, only im running less voltage and a larger prop
    That thing is moving bud. Yeah, it's obvious that I'm missing out somewhere. Up until today, the boat had been running very wet. I trimmed up a hair, brought the strut up 1mm, and shifted the batteries back to the middle. That got the boat up out and planing better, but no additional speed. That's why I was confused. I thought the rpm was being restricted because the hull was dragging.

  15. #45
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    i was able to get out yesterday and run my mean machine with the 4082 1800kv on 5s2p. i tried 7.5 and 11.25 timing. i thought 11.25 was better but i have no data logging equiptment or temps so… i am going on performance and how stuff felt to the touch lol. so informative arent i ….

  16. #46
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    With timing, that is often what it comes down to, how it sounds, and how it "feels". I was using an eagle tree last year and could never get any definitive results to prove the best timing advance.
    Kevin

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