Bouncing, Prop choice and no reverse questions

[Boatlover]

1. Man this boat bounces at high speeds bad, any suggestions?

2. Also is the Grim Racer 42x55 a good choice for this boat?

3. I have no reverse is this normal?

[NativePaul]

No reverse is normal for a fast boat, hope someone that has one can answer the other questions you have.

[HUNTER]

No reverse is normal. Grim Racer 42x55 is an allright prop, from memory I got 44-45 mph just keep an eye on esc temperature. As for the bouncing it is all about setup, I have my batteries about 1/2" over the front of the trays, and my strut is parallel to the bottom of the hull, and 1/16"- 1/8" above the bottom of the hull. This can be checked by sitting the boat on a kitchen benchtop. Hope you get it sorted because for a rtr they really are a good boat. I'm getting 48mph out of mine with the above setup and an m445 prop. I haven't broken anything yet and it gets a fair bit of use.

[Darin Jordan]

If you are ABSOLUTELY convinced that you have the strut and balance and prop EXACTLY right (... I'm guessing not), and feel you've completely run-out of setup options... Check to make sure that the ride-pads are flat. I'm guessing you'll find that they are slightly "cupped"... ("hooked", "recessed"... "have concavity", ....)... This is pretty typical. If you read the Race Prep thread(s) on the Miss Geico, you'll see explanations on how to correct this.

Not sure how prevalent or critical it is to the setup for most, because I usually blueprint all my hulls before I even run them, but I would suspect, if EVERYTHING else is setup correctly, this would be a good next part to look at.

[cmorris]

Darin, NOt to hijack the thread but continue the answering going on, what resin do you use after you have sanded the ride pads? I totally understand getting a flat surface for the boat to ride on - skipping a rock. Being new to rc boats I could just use some help in getting this one dialed in. Thanks alot and she is an awesome boat!!
c

[Boatlover]

I have tried moving the baterries to the front, middle and the rear, nothing helps. I hate that i spent $360 bucks on a boat that i can only run at 50 to 75% throttle. Please someone HELP.

[tlandauer]

When you said bounce, I assume you mean Porpoising. I have a MissGeico ( Leo motor w/ 180A Seaking ESC) , slightly more powerful than stock that did not do that but the moment I put Kintec off set rudder on, it started doing it, although it got rid of the chine walk. Talk about catch-22. What I noticed was this, it only did that when I travel straight line, the moment I drive with even the slightest turn, it rides smooth again. This let me to think that a slightly turned rudder gives more drag and hence more lift from the stern so in turn the boat settles down a bit. I can tell you that no amount of battery placement adjustment worked. I adjusted the strut down (neg) and was way better--I think more experienced members have already told you the various settings.
The reason I am so long winded is that at least on the printed manual I got with my boat it says to raise the strut if you encounter porpoising. So for the longest time I was adjusting it up, making it worse. I want to know this: Am I missing something? My first thought was to lower the strut---point the boat down.
BTW, I know how frustrating it is when you can only go at 50% to 75% throttle.

[Boatlover]

It's just that every forum thread I read people say different things. Some say put the batteries all the way back, some say move forward. I've tried both and nothing works. I changed the strut angle and that didn't even work. I called horizon and they didn't even have a answer. I just am about to give up., I sucks, I wish someone had life of the inside of their boat that runs without bouncing.

[Tim K]

Put the boat on a flat surface
loosen the strut and push it down flat.
This is a great starting point for a Cat.
Scribe a line on the strut and slowly raise it from there.
I think you will like what you see.

Tim K

[Boatlover]

What about the battery placement. Where should place them? I'm running nano techs 5000 2s 40c's?

[Tim K]

I would start somewhere in the middle.
Mark the packs and the boat for reference and go from there.
Cat boats like non lifting props like Octuras X series or Prather 200 series , I would try an X440 or 438.
Not familiar with Grim props.

Tim K

[tlandauer]

HI Guys,
don't mean to hyjack the thread, my problem was how my boat was made from the factory. I believe every boat is a bit different. My stuffing box (tube) comes out of the hull with a pronounced curve, so my prop is always pointing to the sky! I too did exactly what members recommanded but was not working untill I had to lower the strut more than usual. So I posted this question a long time ago but got no reponse, my question is simply this: when I set the boat on the flat surface like the above post with the strut loosened, what shape should the stuffing tube have? Should one bend that to correct any obvious irregularities from production?

[Tim K]

HI Guys,
don't mean to hyjack the thread, my problem was how my boat was made from the factory. I believe every boat is a bit different. My stuffing box (tube) comes out of the hull with a pronounced curve, so my prop is always pointing to the sky! I too did exactly what members recommanded but was not working untill I had to lower the strut more than usual. So I posted this question a long time ago but got no reponse, my question is simply this: when I set the boat on the flat surface like the above post with the strut loosened, what shape should the stuffing tube have? Should one bend that to correct any obvious irregularities from production?

Do as I suggested and don't be affraid to bend the stuffing tube , just avoid kinking it and you will be just fine.
The tube is only brass and should bend easily.

Tim K

[tlandauer]

Thanks! Will give it a trynext time , I was AFFRAID of doing that!

[john722010]

Tim,
i have a minor porposing problem with my Mystic 29. I noticed that the stuffing tube piece that fiys into the stut is so tight that I can NOT put a negative angle on the strut. Do I need to cut the stuffing tube in order to allow for negative strut adjustment? If so does the end piece that mates to the strut come out or is it soldered in? My strut hieght is OK but no matter how much pressure I put on the strut it binds against the stuffing tube and it looks like it actually has some positive angle.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
John722010