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Thread: P1 kos 35" offset rudder.

  1. #31
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    With the offset rudder mod,
    The rudder is 1 1/2" offset from the stinger to the starboard side.
    I made a aluminum off set plate that is 2mm thick and 24mm wide and 53mm long,
    Than drilled 4 hole for the mounting screws after I traced the stock mounting holes to the plate.
    Two for above the stock stinger rudder mount holes that I used longer screws and nuts for,
    And two to mount the stock rudder bracket too with the two stock screws that were for it.

    More pictures,P1 35 KOS 010.jpgP1 35 KOS 011.jpgP1 35 KOS 012.jpgP1 35 KOS 013.jpgP1 35 KOS 014.jpg
    Last edited by lenny; 03-18-2014 at 04:21 PM.

  2. #32
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  3. #33
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    Lenny,
    Can I send my boat to you?! lol... Wow! Looks great, that rudder bracket looks so cool in black, I got more question but have to leave for work again...
    Congrats!!

  4. #34
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    See if can get this video up, http://www.youtu.be/vnP2uUoj3g4

  5. #35
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    Part two,
    Last edited by lenny; 02-23-2012 at 12:16 AM.

  6. #36
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    Way to go! I think she is running really well, very smooth, I am sure the off set rudder made a real differance, I always had to slow down a bit for turns because I did not want to push the limit, other than that with 3s the attitude looked very similar. I think yours will definately run better with 4s at full speed.
    Liked your ESC stand, nice layout inside. Infact that is some operation the interior had gone thru.
    Did you add more reinforcement for the transom? I worry about the transom not having a doubler.
    My turn fins were installed much lower than yours, more drag I am sure, also what kind of trim tabs are you using?
    If you don't mind, I will post more questions, just got home, very tired.

  7. #37
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    No problem,
    Ask what you want.
    Yes, Just little rigging in the modding to see what works, But nothing permanent.
    I try to use what I have on hand and make it work.
    The trim tabs are the new stock one, I just modded them.
    I did not do any reinforcement yet, The transom seam to be strong enough on it om I think.
    But the hatch need to be modded for strength encase of a good blow over I think.
    That will be next in line for some chop.
    I need to get a good cheap used camcorder for better videos.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    Way to go! I think she is running really well, very smooth, I am sure the off set rudder made a real differance, I always had to slow down a bit for turns because I did not want to push the limit, other than that with 3s the attitude looked very similar. I think yours will definately run better with 4s at full speed.
    Liked your ESC stand, nice layout inside. Infact that is some operation the interior had gone thru.
    Did you add more reinforcement for the transom? I worry about the transom not having a doubler.
    My turn fins were installed much lower than yours, more drag I am sure, also what kind of trim tabs are you using?
    If you don't mind, I will post more questions, just got home, very tired.
    Do you have any pictures of your boat ?
    So I can see what you are taking about on the strut bolts and strut plate.
    I found some things wrong and need to fix them,
    The stock bullet on motor to esc are a weak link,
    I temped them at 155 f and that heat is power loss and not good.
    And I will change them to 5.5 and check them again.

    Still running on 3s1p & 3s2p, Best prop so far for speed was the x442 at 30.5 mph temps good.
    But I do see some torque roll and will try a grim 40x52/3 and a L40x57/3 or a x440/3,
    To see if they work or help any with the balance of the boat.
    I had my first flip over and it got a little wet inside,
    But all is good and still working.
    I just need to mod the hatch and seal a little bit more.

  9. #39
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    HI,
    Thanks for asking for the pics. Had a concert last night and I was beat! I thought the stock bullets were 4 mm jobs, better than Pro Boat's 3.5mm, lol... they were ok on mine, may be you had a bad solder from the factory?
    The X442 was also my first chioce but I nicked it on my maiden run.
    As you can see, my boat is stock, only thing I did was put extra FG from the battery platform forward on the floor area until I can no longer reach under the deck. Also near the bow on topunderside of course. The trnsom shot you can see the epoxy encased stinger plate. All the nuts are epoxied in, so I don't want to loosen any bolts to damage the epoxy inside.
    DSCN1786_1325.jpgAttachment 0
    Last edited by tlandauer; 02-24-2012 at 06:30 PM.

  10. #40
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    more pics, never know how to upload!DSCN1788_1327.jpg By the way, you will see a little chunk of the rudder was gone along side of the leading edge, I assume the previous owner has a mishap, I ordered a new one but couldn't tell the difference so I am using this one, it has no ill effects on ride quality so far as I can tell. Are your batteries by the side of the motor? I bias mine on the port side and still notice when running the boat rolls to starboardside, I am sure you will have her dialed in real smooth.
    Last edited by tlandauer; 02-24-2012 at 06:31 PM.

  11. #41
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    Ok, last pic.DSCN1789_1328.jpg, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer

  12. #42
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    Yes I know what you mean about CP,
    Let a lone if you can not spell. lol
    I love auto save on hear.

    Ok, Mine looks about the same with the plate and stock epoxy over it,
    If you did the rudder offset, You will only remove the stinger bolts and not the plate.
    I would need one measurement from the stern starboard side to the trim tab adjusting bolt with nut.
    You need 1 1/4 "for the rudder arm and bracket.
    If you want do the mod I will walk you though it.
    You will use water hose hole for servo rod and old rod hole for water hose.

  13. #43
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    Thanks for the offer, you mean you need measurement from me? right? I might not be able to get it now, but will attemp later, concerts this weekend! BTY, that is brilliant to use the existing holes for the mod, I was dreading to drill holes.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    Ok, last pic.DSCN1789_1328.jpg, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer
    Yes you,
    That port side battery plug wire cover looks scary
    I just use a cap on the red wire plugs.
    Nice grease cover you have, Looks like half a shot glass.
    What boat is that in your avatar ? Looks nice.

  15. #45
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    Yes, it looks scary, I will cover them,thanks. My neg. are covered with heat shrink tube conformed to plug, actually very snug, since that is male plug, but I see the exposed bit of copper plug coming out of the positive.
    Got idea from a pic here with the grease cover, just cut the epoxy mixing cup and you have it!
    My trim tab base is so wide, I am not sure I understand your required clearance for your rudder arm because I am afraid I don't have enough space for it. You can see it is a "double Decker Version, top plate will get in the way. "...from Stern starboardside to trim tab adjusting boltwith nut"? Sorry
    Avatar: MHZ Micro Fountain, thanks.
    Last edited by tlandauer; 02-24-2012 at 09:38 PM.

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    Ok, last pic.DSCN1789_1328.jpg, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer
    The blue water hose that go,s out the side of the boat,
    And the two wire black and red that look like their both together in the black thing.
    That is what looked scary to me.

    Do your wires from the esc go all the way around the boat to the other side were the water outlet is ?

  17. #47
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    Thanks for the concern, really appreciate it. The photo makes it look like the two wires are touching, It is not and the black neg is completely covered in the heat shrink tube cap. But I will be more careful. Yes, the battery leads from the ESC is pointing to the back, on starboardside, when I connect, the wires are away from the turning motor. And I tape them flush on the batteries body, making sure no chance of being caught with the rotor. Having said that, I still had the misfortune of the water hose caught in the motor causing motor failure. Now off I have 50 miles to drive to concert hall, Thanks for all the threads, want to know more of your on-going tests.
    Tim

  18. #48
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    Look at my pictures in post #31 and at the far right picture.
    You would measure 1 1/4" from right side corner of the boat to my trim tab adjusting bar,
    That has the bolt with lock nut so it wont move.

    I still can make it work its not the same as what I have, My rudder is from center of boat over, 1 1/2"
    Just will need to know your measurement on yours.
    Last edited by lenny; 03-18-2014 at 03:22 PM.

  19. #49
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    Hi, Thanks for the prompt, My measurement is 1 3/4'' from the corner to the center of the bolt. How is the weather there? Here is great but have no time.

  20. #50
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    Hi, How was your gig ?

    Like I said we can make it work, Just need the right size hammer.
    The weather hear is sunny and 45 f winds 20 to 50 mph, Just a little to much chop for testing.
    I will be testing some more tomorrow to see if the 5.5 helped any and try some more props,
    A X440/3 and grims 40 X 52/3 and a L40 X 57/3 and see what happens.
    Than see how it likes 4s1p and 4s2p.
    The last time I ran 3s2p the cells were all the way back to the servo stand and my gps was next to the servo,
    But than it flip and got wet.
    I put more seal around the hatch, So I will have to test that to.

  21. #51
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    The gig was OK, one more tonight, then a new set of program starting tomorrow Usually it is rare to have back to back schedule like this, that means can't go to the water
    Sorry to hear your flipped boat.Hope everything dried up. I am not as disciplined as you or other members when it come to ajusting COG, I put my GPS infront of the motor when I checked the speed, I know it is laughable...

  22. #52
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    What every works for you with the gps, I just had room their.
    Ok some good news and bad news.
    The bad was,
    The hot glue I used on the motor mount,
    Got hot and it was coming lose at the end of the last runs back to back of the day.
    Good news, The 5.5 made a big difference in temps and power on 3s and 4s.
    The hatch seal was water tight when I tested it,
    I ran on 4s2p with x442 and gps a 38 mph, Than 4s2p with a x440/3 and gps at 39mph and it ran better.
    Hears some video on 4s2p 30c 5800mah packs with the x440/3 prop,




    What do you think ?

  23. #53
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    Like I said: Lenny, looks fab! You really dialed her in. The rudder makes a huge differance. I don't understand the hot glue part. I was always afraid the temp on the motor mount would eventually make the epoxy and fibre glass brittle.
    Your speed is really good for the P1, I don't think one can push too much further plus the scale look makes her look real good on the water.
    Funny you posted today, was just going to say that I decided to ask you how you modified the stock trim tabs, I don't want to do the mod on this hull, think I will do on the other one that I have not used. Easier to take things apart and I like to use the trim tab w/o the bent down part---think you might have cut them.
    Anyway, I am in for a real busy spell---guess that is good for my fleet If you don't mind I will ask more questions regarding the material you used for the off set arm, etc.
    thnks

  24. #54
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    I was out of epoxy so I grabbed my hot glue gun when I had to fix the stock motor mount and bolts that were stripped out,
    It worked on other stuff so I thought why not.
    But not thinking how hot outrunners are with no water cooling,
    So the glue started to get soft again from the motor heat, You can hear it in the last run I made.
    Trim tabs I took off outside screws and than inside adjuster bolts, But you need to take the wood out to get to them.
    I made my wood removable now with wire ties and a brace for them to go though.
    Than I flatted them with a vise and hammer and sanded and polish them,
    The offset bracket is 5/64 aluminum and you will need 4 new bolts, Two of them tapered with lock nuts.
    When you are ready I will walk you though it.

  25. #55
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    Thanks, off to rehearsal! Also I think the 5.5mm plug is a real good idea, I have that on my ESC batt. leads but the motor i left them with 4mm, maybe I should up grade. I can't believe you really used hammer to flatten them, looks smooth! Thought you grinded them off.

  26. #56
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    I see you got some new boats,
    The little hydro should be fun.
    I have a mini bolt that runs on 3s and is really fun.


  27. #57
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    I forgot to tell you that the T500 motors came from Fightercat, nice motor but the diameter of the thin rim which the motor clamp could grip is larger by 1mm, still have not got time to try. I then also was wondering since you can mount that motor the regular way, it fits on a 4074 motor mount (OSE-80600), if one were to rip the stock mount out, can that set up work on the hull? I noticed how low the stock motor "sits" in the clamp, the 4074 is a bit higher. Still, this mount has water cooler and the fiberglass mounting will not heat up the hull like the stock mount.
    Any thoughts?

  28. #58
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    Yes that motor will fit in the stock mount, That motor was in mine when I got it.
    I Just had to fix the stock mount and see how it ran with the stock motor,
    And yes water cooled mount is nice and will work with a little modding.
    Boat on water heat go,s through the hull,Just a transfer factor.

  29. #59
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    yeah, I know, as long as the boat is on water that is fine, I worry when I take it out to change batteries or temp the motor and ESC, have you touched the legs of the clamps?! it gets hot and my motor's front is the hottest @ 150* or so. Which Kv do you have? 1600Kv or 2200Kv?
    BTW, your Bolt is quite fast at 30mph! I think my DF Mini Hydro RTR is at high 20's, but it sure is fun, it has a BIG turnfin.

  30. #60
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    I have the,1600, T1800, 2200, and t600 1400kv,
    My temps are getting better on the motor 135 f.
    You should try a x440 prop and the 5.5 to on the motor.

    Thanks I just did some mods to the hydro and need gps it again.

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