Wrapping DF Cyber Storm 32 around 1717

[suckmywake]

Lets me start of buy saying I am going to over build this boat due to the fact I am going to punish it. I will be trying two different motors in this boat. I could not pass up the deals @ Castle and picked up a1520-1600kv and 1717-1580kv. I will be making the motor mount my self so to be able to hold both motors and see which one I like the best.

Planed setup
* 32” Df Cyber Storm (2 layers of extra fiberglass)
* 1520 and/or 1717 (1717 is 3oz heavier than the 1520)
* 6s1p and/or 6s2p (I like running smaller props higher rpm)
* Seaking T180 with external bec (will be adding caps and mod. water cooling)
* Flood Tube with .098 piano wire drive
* Jeff Wohlts Bearing Strut (mod. for more setback)
* Accu-Tech long trim tabs (mounted up 1/8” above bottom of hull)
* Small OSE turn fins


The first things I made a boat stand.

The boat stand was made also as a C.O.G. balancer.

[suckmywake]

I added two layers of heavy weight fiberglass to hull bottom. Each layer is one piece of cloth and extends from bow to transom and wraps up the sides to hatch opening. One layer of heavy weight cloth added on deck of bow and one layer on transom to reinforce the hull and deck seam of transom. Two layers on hatch. All extra fiberglass resin was squeezed out wiped up and removed with paper towel before curing to keep strength up and weight down. Hull and hatch weigh now about 2 lbs 9 oz. I did not think to weigh hull stock. It looks like running weight of boat will be about 8 lbs 8 oz with 1717 and qty= 2 5000mah 3cells and 10 lbs 6 oz with 1717 and qty=4 5000mah 3 cells.


I fabricated two rails out of ¼” light plywood. They are 24” long and extend far into the bow. The rails in the bow and transom extend up to the deck. They are scribed along hull and deck to match contour of boats hull. The rails will be mounted 4” apart.

[LarrysDrifter]

This looks to be a fun build to watch.Id like to see this one run!

[suckmywake]

Pic of mock up COG
I want to thank properchopper for his help with some COG info on Cyber Storms. The motor will be mounted low in front due to piano wire drive. The Esc will be above the stuffing tube and batts in back. The servo will be outside the rail on starboard side close to transom lying on its side. If I want or need to run 6s2p the addition batts will be place outside rail @ COG. With extra fiberglass in hull I am having some problems getting low percent COG. I think the extra weight of fiberglass added a lot of weight to the bow of the boat since hull is mostly bow.

[suckmywake]

This is pic. of the parts for the motor mount. Since I’m going to run two different dia. and length motors with same mount it calls for some creative problem solving. I think motor mount will be a sandwich of 1/8” Al and 2.5mm carbon fiber. I hope the carbon fiber will keep the Al from bending and the Al will keep the carbon fiber from snapping. Right now I am not planning on a front mount or support for the motors but have some ideas and may change my mind.

[suckmywake]

This is how I plan on mounting servo with parts from OSE AL. servo mount. I need to keep steering rod outside the rails to leave room for bats. The servo will be mounted far toward the transom to help COG. The flat head countersunk screws will go thru the rail to hold servo mounts. These screws will be able to be removed and servo will be able to slide forward with the mounts if service is needed.

[suckmywake]

I modified Jeff Wohlt strut to be adjustable. I wanted to be able to not only adjust up and down but forward and aft. I made a stand off block and got some longer mounting screws and drilled adjustment slot in factory brackets. I can adjust it anywhere from 2” to 3” off back off transom. The stuffing tube will be able to make up for this adjustment. The piano wire will have to be shortened or lengthen but piano wire is cheap and I make my own piano wire drives set up.

[LarrysDrifter]

I see the sticker on the transom in post 7.You can have your fast overbuilt mono,but all I have to do is turn a little short...for you know what...smartass.

[Rumdog]

hahahahhaaa

[suckmywake]

I am glad you finialy caught up enought to read it.

[madgadget]

incoming Larry, return fire!

[suckmywake]

I tell Larry this all the time. The thing I enjoy the most about this hobby is giving him Cr*p. Larry is a good guy. We have alot of fun running RC together.

[suckmywake]

I am putting a flood tube in this boat. I will be doing it a little different. This flood tube will be a lot shorter than others that I have seen and I will be using a steering bellow as a seal. I got this idea from my full size inboard v drive wakeboard boat that uses a rubber bellow and graphite slip flange to seal the prop shaft were it goes thru the bottom of the hull. I wanted to be able change props shaft height while running different dia, pitch, mutli blade props and different boat weight from running 2 or 4 batts (1p or 2p). I believe with the power, speed and the rpms FE boats reach the props wants to go to surface of the water and will raise the boat as it seeks the surface. The larger or higher pitch the prop the more lift is created. Lifting props and higher pitch x6 prop will lift transom more than lower pitch x4 props. My own personal experience is I have yet to get an x6 prop to outperform an x4 prop. The higher the boat run the less drag it has from the less wetted surface and boat should be faster but handling can suffer. The dreaded mono wobble can occur if boat gets to high and has a too narrow of a ride pad. Of course the angle of the hull and weight of boat has effect on this also. I also think that extending or decreasing the distance between the prop and the transom is basically like lengthening or shorting hull length or think of it as the ability for the prop to carry the bow or the running COG. The closer the prop is to the transom the more the prop will carry the bow and vise a versa.

[johnson22456]

Looks good bob. Get that thing together because we might actually have some wet water this weekend.

[properchopper]

Lookin' Good, Bob ! I get jazzed when I see creativity like you've demonstrated. I like the way you handled the rudder bracket placement & filled the void - I mounted my rudder lower & when it came time to install the trim tabs I had a rude awakening

[LarrysDrifter]

Bob is a very very creative person.Always has great ideas and does good work.Damn,I just gave you a compliment.

[suckmywake]

Again with this boat I wanted to try something different with the tabs. I am not a fan of trim tabs and think they are mainly used as hrdw bling on the back of the boat. Yet I am putting them on this boat. I like the bling. I have my reasons. I want to be able to adjust mounting height on transom along with easily able to adjust how far out from center line the tabs sit on hull. I elongated the holes in the SS tabs so I can adjust mounting height from being flush with bottom of hull to up 1/8” up. I glued AL plates on inside of transom and drilled and tapped the mounting holes in Al. I drilled two set of holes ¼” apart and will use long setscrews to seal holes not in use. I can now easily move tabs from outside the hull with only a hex and not have to worry about nuts on inside. This way I can adjust the hulls ride height by moving tabs in or out. With the tab more toward center of hull the boat will ride a little higher. With tabs moved out the transom will sink a little lower.

[suckmywake]

I got the rails, stuffing tube and supports glued in. I am real happy the way the adjustable flood tube on stuffing tube worked out with servo boot. I ran cooling lines and esc/servo wiring thru stuffing tube supports for a clean look. I am adding foam around the stuffing tube to help with floatation. This boat will weight in at 10 1/2lbs with 1717 with 4 5000mah 3s batts so every little bit of floatation foam helps. I got all hardware mounted on back and piano wire drive made. This boat turned out rock solid. I am not unhappy that I put the extra effort in adding the two extra layers of fiberglass all the way up to hatch opening and on hatch with one layer on deck. The rails are 24” long and extend from bottom of hull up to deck

[JMSCARD]

Very Nice Clean Build!! I like the layout for sure!

[suckmywake]

Thanks for the kind words.

[suckmywake]

I ruff cut some styrofoam for floatation and use spray can expand-a-foam to fill in gaps. If you look close in center pic you can see the ¼ “ of spray foam around out side of Styrofoam in center of boat. This method worked out great and is lighter than just pure expand-a-foam. The bow is very ridged and strong now. With the foam done I was able to install motor.

[johnson22456]

"ruff cut" who are you kidding? The foam turned out awesome, and that's probably an under statement.

Now get the rest done so we can see it run this weekend.

[Jeff Wohlt]

VERY nice! Sounding more like Larry, MO and Curly on here. LOL...guess I am going to have to drive down there this summer and bring the big guns :)

[johnson22456]

VERY nice! Sounding more like Larry, MO and Curly on here. LOL...guess I am going to have to drive down there this summer and bring the big guns :)

Better bring some biggens. There's some pretty quick boats on this side of the Show Me State.

[LarrysDrifter]

Come on with it,Jeff. We're ready.:)

[suckmywake]

Will I guess Larry should be Larry but he looks more like Curly. Eric looks most like Larry. That leaves me as Moe. Come on down Jeff you can be Shemp or Joe. I don’t want to be Shemp or Joe.

[TotalPackage]

You talented boy clean az. install .

[suckmywake]

I made a front hatch hold down with a piece of wood with blind nuts that was resin to the hatch then clothed over. A piece of Al was fab. and bolted to that to make a tight fit. I might glue piece of wood under hull deck in front of hatch lip to help disperse any stress on hatch flange from AL. The back hold downs are cheap and easy and is just SS rod that was screwed in to the rails with SS acorn nuts and a rubber washer on top. Yea, I like things that are cheap and easy.

[suckmywake]

The weekend before last got the boat all together and made maiden run. I had small issues. I flipped the boat and bent the hatch and cracked up the gel coat on it. I reinforced hatch way stronger that I thought it needed by adding two extra layer of glass to it but it wasn’t enough. The hatch caved in and wedged itself in the hull opening on its first flip. The front of the hatch was pushed back enough force to clear the lip in hatch opening of hull and wedged itself cockeyed in the hatch opening. The hold downs in the back of the hatch held great. This really was a shock that the hatch fail. I can’t stress enough of how strong this hatch was. It was not easy to bend the hatch to remove from being wedged in. I think it was just an unlucky hit that just hit in the wrong place. I know if hatch wasn’t as strong as it was it would be in two pieces. The masking tape in the pic is showing where the hatch bent. It bent toward the back where it is flatter and has the vent indents and not as concaved as cockpit area. After this mishap I added another layer of FG to hatch and added rails to it. I am running a 1/4:” stuffing tube with a Teflon liner and ceramic bearings in strut. I have found with this set up I do not need to use a lot of grease on the piano wire. I just put a little on wire drive in middle where I contacts the Teflon from the slight stuffing tube bend. I pull wire out for storage after a day of running. I have run boat few times working on getting the set up better and better. So far fastest GPS reading has been 58 with an x447 prop running 6s1p. Motor and esc temps are great after the runs with batts coming in warm. I am now running an x548 and seem to be faster but have not gps this prop or put my eagle tree in boat yet. I think the 1p might be limiting my speed and will be trying 2p shortly.

[JPriami]

Nice build. Love the Keep up Larry sticker lmao. I am to wonder if you do some sort of electrical work after seeing it all hooked up and run. Looks like your used to making wiring look neat and secured. Plus I see a bunch of flex in that last pic lol.