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Thread: STEALTH SPORT HYDRO Nitro to FE

  1. #1
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    Default STEALTH SPORT HYDRO Nitro to FE

    Converted my yelow nitro SSH hydro to FE power. Have to get a new cowl made, nitro one had air vents cut in it. Will test it out after i get the cowl made and will replace the stock connetors with some better bullets.
    Stock UL1 motor and esc 4600 nimh batteries. Will get some lipo power for the spring running.
    Nimh batteries fit ok in front of the motor, esc and rec on top, used a rubber band over the top to hold everything down. I used a traxxas waterproof servo for the rudder. I just ca glued some 1/8th ply in the engine well sides to screw the servo down.
    I set up the mount to line up with the nitro flex cable tube ok. Cut some slots in the floor and then I cut out the floor under the motor for clearance. The boat balanced about 16 inches with the nimh batteries and a few oz lead in the sponson tips.
    Same strut and rudder setup I used on the nitro boat. Sealed up the pipe exhaust hole, put a rubber boot inside on the 440 rudder control rod. I will tape over the small drain holes when running.

    some pictures here http://gallery.intlwaters.com/thumbn...um=1107&page=2

    DSC01718.JPG

  2. #2
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    This set up will run nicely in LSH. I run 6000mah nano's in mine for racing, they work great.

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    I like the new Camaro in pictures. I also like your boat. What color yellow is that?
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    After rereading his tread I realized that I am actually talking the one and only Mr. Phil Thomas himself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    I like the new Camaro in pictures. I also like your boat. What color yellow is that?
    That Camaro is my daughters, she wont let me have it.
    The paint is KlassKote #160 epoxy. The nitro boats must use the epoxy paints.
    it is a 1-1-1 mix color, hardner, reducer, not hard to use.
    http://www.klasskote.com/epoxy-colors-primers

  6. #6
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    Phil,
    You should consider changing the 4mm bullet connectors on the motor to speed controller also. Those little suckers get hot quickly and once they do, the spring tension on the male plug goes to pot. You will be better off with 5mm or larger connectors there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanN View Post
    Phil,
    You should consider changing the 4mm bullet connectors on the motor to speed controller also. Those little suckers get hot quickly and once they do, the spring tension on the male plug goes to pot. You will be better off with 5mm or larger connectors there.
    That is the plan thanks Alan

  8. #8
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    You should bring it to Mendota next year. We should have 6-9 of them in the P-Limited Sport Hydro Class at that race?
    Last edited by LuckyDuc; 12-15-2011 at 08:46 PM.

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    Way to go Phil!!!! I'm sure you'll have a barrel of fun with that hydro in the Spring :)

    Jim Vaughn

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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    After rereading his tread I realized that I am actually talking the one and only Mr. Phil Thomas himself.
    ha! Yep, and he finally built himself an electric version! Looking good Phil. I wish I would have mounted my motor up further like yours. Mine is too far back, but I wanted to run (2) 4S packs.

    2011-10-08_10-17-26_798.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by jevmax View Post
    Way to go Phil!!!! I'm sure you'll have a barrel of fun with that hydro in the Spring :)

    Jim Vaughn
    Hi Jim, you know I really want a fast 36 inch sport boat. Maybe there has to be a new Stealth 36" next year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter View Post
    ha! Yep, and he finally built himself an electric version! Looking good Phil. I wish I would have mounted my motor up further like yours. Mine is too far back, but I wanted to run (2) 4S packs.

    2011-10-08_10-17-26_798.jpg
    Looks like you could still move the motor up to the back of the packs and have the esc on top of the batteries.

  13. #13
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    I'd like to see a video of a Stealth running a UL-1 setup. Been running mine on a Leopard 4074 2200kv.
    Phil do you think the rubber band will keep the batteries in place if she flips? I use velcro and a strap on mine.

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by marko500 View Post
    I'd like to see a video of a Stealth running a UL-1 setup. Been running mine on a Leopard 4074 2200kv.
    Phil do you think the rubber band will keep the batteries in place if she flips? I use velcro and a strap on mine.

    Mark
    I have velcro too, i will use two rubber bands. I did see some velcro straps at Lowes today.
    i use rubber bands to hold down fuel tanks in boats too, have not thrown out any in a flip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phil t View Post
    Hi Jim, you know I really want a fast 36 inch sport boat. Maybe there has to be a new Stealth 36" next year.
    A new 36" Stealth would be nice, but with the length limits now in the NAMBA rules a 34" would be raceable in both P-Sport and P-Limited. Regardless, if you build it I'll have to test it!

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    Phil, I am thinking your COG may be too far forward, but you can allways add weight to the stern to correct. Two 2s Grimracer (Deans installed from factory) packs would make boat lots faster.

    M445 is a good starter prop. More advanced racers bend their own props to get max out of P spec. I wish I knew how.

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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Phil, I am thinking your COG may be too far forward, but you can allways add weight to the stern to correct. Two 2s Grimracer (Deans installed from factory) packs would make boat lots faster.

    M445 is a good starter prop. .
    Well we will see how it goes it would be nice to have it nose heavy can always move things back.
    This is not like a whip. How long is that mod whip you are building?
    Sport boats usually work with a balance point about 88-90% of the afterplane lenght. Depending on hull lift, weight and sponson angle of attack.
    Yes I think the Grim racer lipo packs will do fine too.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil t View Post
    Hi Jim, you know I really want a fast 36 inch sport boat. Maybe there has to be a new Stealth 36" next year.
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  19. #19
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    Well, just the man I have been thinking of. I picked up one of these babies and had her painted up. I am amazed at the handling on LSH power - even in 15mph winds today! I have good luck with the motor just behind the packs and with my gps on top of the batts, she was great!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5Emh...e_gdata_player

    So great that I am working on scaling up the hull to 34". it's a lot of measuring, excel spreadsheet with scaling factor of 113%. Are you planning on a P Hydro FE hull? If so, when would it be available? If not, I hope to have one ready in the next few months.
    What changes would you recommend in the slightly larger version? I was not planning to change a thing.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

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    Hey guys... Does anyone happen to have the measurements on the Stealth of the distance between the "front sponson planing surfaces" (Inside edge of the ride-pads) and the width of the bottom of the transom??

    Thanks,
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Darin - 11 1/8" between the ride pads
    8 3/4" at the transom, 16 1/2" behind the sponsons

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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    Darin - 11 1/8" between the ride pads
    8 3/4" at the transom, 16 1/2" behind the sponsons
    Is it 8.75 at the BOTTOM of the transom??? Or is that total transom width??
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    8" at the top and 6 3/4" at the bottom of the transom. I misread the 6 fo an 8

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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    8" at the top and 6 3/4" at the bottom of the transom. I misread the 6 fo an 8
    I see...

    You guys DO realize that this hull, then, does NOT meet the 65% Transom width requirement in the NAMBA Sport Hydro rules?? 6.75"/11.125" = 60.7%. It needs to have an additional 1/2" (0.48125" ) added to the width at the bottom of the transom.


    NAMBA Rules, Section 28, Page 9... 28.E.1.c.vii):

    The width of the transom bottom shall be no less than 65% of the width between the inside edges of the front sponson planing surfaces. An exception to this will apply to the scratch build scale designs of full sized boats that are full bodied 3 points hydroplanes but have an afterplane that tapers sharply at the transom. Example: Lauterbach shovelnoses.


    I have one on the way and will see if I can figure out what needs to be done to make it NAMBA FE Sport Hydro legal... Likely just add some material to the transom.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    NAMBA Rules, Section 28, Page 9... 28.E.1.c.vii):

    The width of the transom bottom shall be no less than 65% of the width between the inside edges of the front sponson planing surfaces. An exception to this will apply to the scratch build scale designs of full sized boats that are full bodied 3 points hydroplanes but have an afterplane that tapers sharply at the transom. Example: Lauterbach shovelnoses.

    By the way... for the record... I think this is a STUPID rule, and that, at a minimum, the FE Sport Hydro rules and the Nitro Sport Hydro rules should be one in the same. The only exceptions should be where necessary to allow for the FE vs. Nitro power system setups. There should NOT be differences in dimensional requirements, etc... Not in the basic rules, anyhow... SILLY!!
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    thanks darin-you have made lots of friends today! i just spent three months building one of these boats and we all know there's lots more being built and being run around the country! do you actually think we are going to change them after all the work we put in-i won't and i also won't stay up all night looking for rules that cause problems for other people in this hobby,sport or what ever racers call it. i was ready for a great racing season-but i'm done now to much b/s about rules and now i understand why r/c won't grow! just my two cents that nobody cares about-because i'm a fossil.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bozo586 View Post
    thanks darin-you have made lots of friends today! i just spent three months building one of these boats and we all know there's lots more being built and being run around the country! do you actually think we are going to change them after all the work we put in-i won't and i also won't stay up all night looking for rules that cause problems for other people in this hobby,sport or what ever racers call it. i was ready for a great racing season-but i'm done now to much b/s about rules and now i understand why r/c won't grow! just my two cents that nobody cares about-because i'm a fossil.
    Hey, Dude... I didn't make the rules... I just try to follow them! Don't drop your BS attitude on me! I didn't design the boat...

    As I stated above, I'm about to build one as well. I, however, do my research prior to embarking on a project, because I want to be 100% legal. Sorry if I'm observent!

    As I also stated above, I, too, think it's a STUPID rule. I thought it when they drafted it, and I still feel that way today. However, the fix is likely simple, and I will be happy to do a write-up once I have a boat here (next week) to work on. If you spent 3-months building it, I fail to see how spending another hour or two to make it fit the class is going to be that big of a deal.

    Phil is a Nitro guy, and I think may be in the IMPBA. He may not have known about the transom rule. Either way, it's going to be a great boat that simply needs a little tweak to fit the class rules. Big deal...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Quote Originally Posted by bozo586 View Post
    thanks darin-you have made lots of friends today! i just spent three months building one of these boats and we all know there's lots more being built and being run around the country! do you actually think we are going to change them after all the work we put in-i won't and i also won't stay up all night looking for rules that cause problems for other people in this hobby,sport or what ever racers call it. i was ready for a great racing season-but i'm done now to much b/s about rules and now i understand why r/c won't grow! just my two cents that nobody cares about-because i'm a fossil.
    I guess Darin and I are in this one together (everything is pretty much our fault anyway). We figured it out while measuring one of the 3 I have in the shop. No big deal, fix it, make it legal and race it like it's stolen. I wouldn't bother if I didn't think it was going to be a great boat.

    I always find it interesting that people get pissed because of their own ignorance. It's ultimately the racers responsibility to make sure they conform to the rules they are racing under.

    There was a whole bunch of bondo work going on to the bottom of about half the gas crackerbox field at the NAMBA nats last year because the racers assumed that hulls they were buying conformed to the rules and never checked them.

    For the record, I didn't like the rule when it was written and I still don't. It's one of the main reasons I haven't bothered building any new designs for FE Sport Hydro.

    In the mean time, anyone bringing one to the FE nats this summer has plenty of time to get it modded to make it legal.
    Brian "Snowman" Buaas
    Team Castle Creations
    NAMBA FE Chairman

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    Quote Originally Posted by bozo586 View Post
    darin-my name is john gross not bude. no b/s intended maybe i'll buy a proboat do they have a legal hull.
    John, Nice to meet you!

    Unfortunately, I haven't been able to talk Pro Boat into developing a decent racing capable Sport Hydro yet... But, you never know!

    Stick with the Stealth. Fixing it is simply a matter of adding 1/4" or so to the sides of the bottom of the transom. I'm sure others may have additional ideas.

    I'm pumped to get mine and get it on the water.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    You can add material to inside riding surfaces of sponsons. Inside riding surface of stealth is alot like the Whiplash.

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