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Thread: Seaking 180 ESC Waterproofing

  1. #1
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    Default Seaking 180 ESC Waterproofing

    Hi guys,

    I just purchased a new seaking 180 ESC from OSE. I read some posts about waterproofing materials for ESC's. I found an excellent product at Home Depot. It's Gardner Bender Liquid electrical tape. Cost was $6.99. I also used some black silicone to seal the ends of the extra caps first.

    IMG_3003.JPGIMG_3005.JPGIMG_3006.JPGIMG_3007.JPGIMG_30023.JPG

  2. #2
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    Next I sealed all the open areas that were exposed to air/water.

    IMG_3010.JPGIMG_3012.JPGIMG_3014.JPGIMG_3015.JPG

  3. #3
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    This electrical tape dry's fast.

    Liquid Electrical Tape is a liquid coating that is used to insulate and protect electrical splices and connections. This waterproof seal will not unravel or deteriorate like traditional electrical tapes. Perfect for auto and marine applications, not to mention hundreds of other uses. - Highly resistant to chemicals, solvents, saltwater, and other common fluids - Dielectric properties are 2X better than standard electrical tape - Dries in minutes, and cures within 24 hours - Forms a protective, waterproof, uv resistant, dielectric seal

    Key words hear are Dielectric properties which means it won't conduct electricity

    IMG_3017.JPGIMG_3018.JPGIMG_3019.JPGIMG_3021.JPGIMG_3022.JPG

    Since my boat seems to get wet alot (and even gets submerged at times I wanted to make sure the ESC stays safe!

    Howard

  4. #4
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    What version is your Hobbywing Seaking 180A?

  5. #5
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    it says version 2, Does it matter?

    I know it's suppose to be waterproof but it definitely is now. Here's the pics after the electrical tape has dried.

    IMG_3025.JPGIMG_3026.JPGIMG_3027.JPG

  6. #6
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    Thanks-- very timely as I just bought one of these. Question-- would you also coat the caps on the main board?
    Chief

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BHChieftain View Post
    Thanks-- very timely as I just bought one of these. Question-- would you also coat the caps on the main board?
    Chief
    This is the method Ive used for over a year now with great results..Ive even had a full submerge and was still able to get her in without hurting anything..also, coat your battery pack ends to get them water proofed..I paint everything exposed with the liquid tape..Even the caps..

  8. #8
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    Water does not hurt lipos. No need to coat them.

  9. #9
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    This is a great thread and timely for me as I just got a 240 Amp Seaking I am putting in my Thundercat31 FE Conversion. I will use the Liquid Electrical Tape. Just out of curiousity, has anyone used "FlexSeal" that is advertised constantly on TV?

  10. #10
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    Yeah i've used flexseal. its goes on a lot thicker and takes way longer to dry than liquid tape or plasti dip. IMO not as good for hobby use but it does seal out water.
    "If you can't win - Wreck someone who can!"

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the input!

  12. #12
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    I love liquid eletrical tape and plastidip! I always use them to coat my electronics for my scale rock crawler. But I also place them in a watersealed box too. Never had any problems though. Just watch out on the liquid eletrical tape. It will leave tiny pinholes from the bubbling so make sure to give it another coat.

  13. #13
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    Question: Should I cut the stock plastic covering off of the ESC, coat everything in liquid tape and then spray it with plastic dip or, should I leave the stock plastic on and just try to waterproof the exposed ends with liquid tape and black silicon caulk?IMG_0782.jpgIMG_0783.jpgIMG_0784.jpgIMG_0785.jpg

  14. #14
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    Either way will work. I prefer to leave the wrap on and seal the ends, others have done it the other way.


    Howard

  15. #15
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    I use "Plastic Dip" which is essentially the same thing but it comes to where you can spoon it out of the can.

    For ESC's that come heat shrinked I have found that the dips or liquid tapes have a hard time adhering to the silicone wires. Water can get through there and ruin them. I already lost 1 that way. I found it better to just silicone the ends of the ESC with clear silicone. Use the good stuff like GE. Works much better and you can still see status lights if necessary.

  16. #16
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    Thanks guys. I opted to leave the heat shrink on. I used liquid tape to flow into the esc and then sealed the ends in silicone.

  17. #17
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    I always use conformal coating on my esc and recievers . It is sweet it dries clear and you can solder through it.....
    :canada

  18. #18
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    The last thing I got interested in before trying RC boats was RC float planes. I had been flying RC for many years, but finally decided to try flying off the water. I learned right away that water and ESCs did not get along. The typical solution for a lot of RC flyers is treating the ESC by submerging it in a cup of CorrosionX overnight, then letting it drain for a day before using it.

    I don't believe I've heard any of the boaters here mention using CorrosionX. I think the stuff is a miracle, personally....

    Take it easy,
    desmobob

  19. #19
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    You have obviously missed the discussions & mentions of Corrosion X on this forum, this stuff is probably wider used & mentioned on this forum than any other around. Its also in the OSE store.

  20. #20
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    Can you just use silicone sealant? Plasti dip is hard to get in the UK and about x3 the price! I've got a tube of black sealant at home.

  21. #21
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    I use black ultra silicone sealant. So yes you can just use what you have.

  22. #22
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    In the UK plastdip them selves sell on Ebay. Re silicon, yes you can use this as well. The problem with any sealer is where your moving the wires around on the esc etc you break the seal around the wire & you dont know whether its still water tight. If water does get in then it just sits their not drying for a long time. Silicon must not be the acid type,you know the one that smells of vinegar as that will corrod the whole esc over time, you need electronics grade or one that dosnt have acid in it. With Corrosion X you simply treat it & its good to go, you can then give it another coat anytime later ecspecially if it does get wet.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattwarner View Post
    Can you just use silicone sealant? Plasti dip is hard to get in the UK and about x3 the price! I've got a tube of black sealant at home.
    You can use anything you want as long as its a sealant and has decent dialectric capabilities. But you might consider the issues with using "goops". A thin water proof membrane allows heat to travel off the boards much more efficiently. Thick covering retains more heat on the components that generate heat. If your ESC survives your setup and continues to run over the years you need to consider that heat alone is the one major factor that kills speedos. Getting them wet is up there too but the quality built speedos are not encaspsulated, sealed in a mass of some elastomer. They breathe so to speak or at least allow heta to escape as much as possible.

    John
    Change is the one Constant

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullwink View Post
    Thanks guys. I opted to leave the heat shrink on. I used liquid tape to flow into the esc and then sealed the ends in silicone.
    if the silicone is acetone based it will ruin your PCB (according to ben)

  25. #25
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    Right. I saw that. So I made sure the silicone I used was not acetone based. (I think :-) )

  26. #26
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    I just let all the smoke out of a brand new Seaking 180 - not impressed with a device supposedly built for marine applications.
    No, I didn't seal it - why should I have to if it's constructed correctly?
    Pretty pink smoke covered the lake - looked like an emergency flare went off - laughed 'til I cried!
    Got a Hydra 240 XL on order. Hope it has better engineering for preventing "liquid lightup".

  27. #27
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    Guys u might want to look into this . I just started to use this and it works great https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post415457

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullwink View Post
    Question: Should I cut the stock plastic covering off of the ESC, coat everything in liquid tape and then spray it with plastic dip or, should I leave the stock plastic on and just try to waterproof the exposed ends with liquid tape and black silicon caulk?IMG_0782.jpgIMG_0783.jpgIMG_0784.jpgIMG_0785.jpg
    I cut the shrink off my Swordfish 200 and used PlastiDip but it's a real mess...in hindsight I should have just plugged the ends and coated with Dip...JMHO.
    I let the dogs out...

  29. #29
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    I have a silly question, has anyone sent one of these back for repair after waterproofing it?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard View Post
    it says version 2, Does it matter?

    I know it's suppose to be waterproof but it definitely is now. Here's the pics after the electrical tape has dried.

    IMG_3025.JPGIMG_3026.JPGIMG_3027.JPG
    Howard, have you submerged it yet? i followed what you did here but i must have missed something sense after about 15 minutes in the water the case was about ½ filled with water and I could not get it to drip out tell I removed all the liquid tape and the screws then I dumped all the water out. it is now sitting in rice for a few days before I try it. I saw somewhere one guy filled the whole thing up with the spay liquid tape.

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