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Thread: Fixing the BJ26 Handling Issues

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by PropNutt43 View Post
    Yes, I used some 1/8 inch (3mm) silicone fuel tubing. It works great keeps the water out completely. only want about 1/8 " to rub against flex shaft and make sure a little grease gets in it to reduce friction.

    Attachment 4625
    I am still getting an unacceptable amount of water through the stuffing box tube after upgrading to the Fullers Hardware/ Octura 642 prop/ and (2) 2s 4800mAh lipos. I tried making a clear plastic shroud that covered the flex coupler area like a roof from battery box to battery box and from the motor to the electronics tray. This confirmed that the water is coming from the stuffing box tube.
    Is 1/8 inch (3mm) standard size fuel tubing? I tried a piece of fuel tubing similar to what comes with the boat for the cooling system and it just tore. Would you recommend adding some CA to where the plastic stuffing box tube exits the copper stuffing box tube on the inside and or outside of the boat or anywhere else? Any other recommendations are appreciated.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaybirdtke View Post
    Is 1/8 inch (3mm) standard size fuel tubing? I tried a piece of fuel tubing similar to what comes with the boat for the cooling system and it just tore. Would you recommend adding some CA to where the plastic stuffing box tube exits the copper stuffing box tube on the inside and or outside of the boat or anywhere else? Any other recommendations are appreciated.
    The stuff I used is made by Great Planes it's 1/8 inch (3mm) inside diameter. This is their large silicone fuel tubing for glow fuel.
    It will fit without tearing if you take a pair of needle nose pliers insert into one end and stretch it out a little first. Then use a little grease and work it on to the plastic liner and then over the brass tube. It will be tight but that’s how I got it to fit.

    As far as using CA on the liner, I wouldn't recommend it. At some point you will need to remove it for replacement when it wears out. Using grease and the fuel tube will completely eliminate any water from getting in through the stuffing box tube. It has on my boat.

  3. #33
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    the main problem is the hull. Not all the band aid solutions.
    EYEKANDYGRAPHICS

    www.rclipos.com

  4. #34

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    I've got a Skater II and a new prop ordered. I contacted TLR about ordering a spare strut for the Skater so I can try to mod it with a brass bushing. Wife's cousin has an automotive machine shop (almost all custom race motor builds) so I'll see if they can help me with the mod. I'm not sure, but I think TLR wants to send me a strut instead of me buying one. I call that good tech support and customer service. I don't know if anyone has already tried this, but I'll try to post the results of the mod. If it's been done and tanks, let me know please.

  5. #35
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    Default Turn fins

    Do you think in stock BJ (has flex cable and X642) that the angling of the turns fins will have a significant effect on handling or/and speed? Also, PropNutt43, where do you run in OFallon? I am there also.

  6. #36
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    I will let you know after sunday running, i am running stock setup with 642 and turned in fins!

  7. #37
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    I will be running this weekend also, last Sunday ran it in way to rough water and completely flipped (MUST remember to take the time to completely tape the hatch) it was floating with just a couple of inches of the front out of the water, completely under almost. I thought I was in for some replacement electrics, but let it dry out overnight and all is working fine. I will NEVER run without the hatch taped again! It happens so fast!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORIDE View Post
    Do you think in stock BJ (has flex cable and X642) that the angling of the turns fins will have a significant effect on handling or/and speed? Also, PropNutt43, where do you run in OFallon? I am there also.

    Sorry I don't know how it will run with the stock drive and the turn fins angled. I never ran mine that way. I didn't angle the fins till after putting the Fullers Cat Hardware on.

    I'm interested in hearing how it works out. Would think it should improve the handling but won't eliminate all the problems.

    I'll PM you as to where I run my boat. Just want to keep this tread on subject.

  9. #39
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    RUBBISH,

    Absolute rubbish....... The thing wouldnt run in a staight line, and round a corner the BJ26 "crabbed" and when you powered around a corner it would lift a sponson in both directions, it just ran like a dog...

    After a rather embarrising display at my new "nitro" boat club, i re straighted the fins and had a decent crack , after the laughter from the nitro boys died down, there was general shock on their faces, when lap after lap about 10 or so i was passing some of the bigger gas and nitro boats

    Another win for the Electric boys.....

  10. #40
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    So are you saying that angling the fins on a stock drive setup is not a good way to go and the straight fins (factory setting) are superior?

  11. #41
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    thats it Moride, in my opinion..

  12. #42
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    Here's mine with no turn fins,speedmaster hardware,ammo2300,150 flex,and hull mod I can now turn at full speed most of the time..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY forgot to mention this boat also has a sv27 esc and 2 little zippy k 4300 7.4 lipo packs,and runs very cool.Will tweak the hull some to smooth out the handling even more,and should be getting a bit longer rudder to help...the 5.25 really works super on my mean machine compared to the smaller speedmaster and will most certainly help this boat after some trimming.
    Last edited by TRUNKMUNKY; 05-13-2008 at 04:04 AM.

  13. #43
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    Propnut, you used the stock stuffing tube, why not make one a bit longer so that more of the flex shaft is more stable? Just wondering I have followed your build up to a tee except I have make my own stuffing tube and make it about 1/2 inch longer toward the rudder... Will this have any effect on running it that way?
    Joe007

  14. #44
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    I thought about making a new stuffing tube to run all the way to the strut to help keep water from getting into the boat. I decided against it when the problem went away after adding some silicone fuel line as a seal at the motor end of the stuffing tube.

    Besides, I like the flexibility of the Teflon tube when it comes to adjusting the height and angle of the strut.

    I don't see any problem with extending the stuffing tube another 1/2 inch, shouldn't effect performance but you won't know for sure till you run it.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUNKMUNKY View Post
    Here's mine with no turn fins,speedmaster hardware,ammo2300,150 flex,and hull mod I can now turn at full speed most of the time..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY forgot to mention this boat also has a sv27 esc and 2 little zippy k 4300 7.4 lipo packs,and runs very cool.Will tweak the hull some to smooth out the handling even more,and should be getting a bit longer rudder to help...the 5.25 really works super on my mean machine compared to the smaller speedmaster and will most certainly help this boat after some trimming.


    TRUNKMUNKY,

    Would like to know what hull mods you have made, how to do them, pictures if possible. Your boat definitely turns great! Awesome video too! Please enlighten us.

    Also, are these the batteries you are running? And is this where you got them?

    http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6656

    Been dying to get some lipos and these look very affordable. The weight loss has got to help the handling.
    Last edited by PropNutt43; 05-13-2008 at 10:10 PM.

  16. #46
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    Propnutt, I agree with you that you need some flex for adjusting the prop ange.. Cut my stuffing tube just at stern... I have about 1 1/2 inch of flex tubing to make a adjustment.... Will post some pictures in the near future... Waiting for a new flex shaft I had a brain fart this morning and cut the shaft same as the stock one....
    Joe007

  17. #47
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    Those batts look a little dodgey propnut,anyhing with the word zippy in it make me shudder. they probabley need to 25c continues amp draw not 20, and also the cheaper the internal cells are the more likely they are to go "puff" and "boom",
    My best advice is get the best you can afford, if that is your budget then go for it, they will still be ok, but you may have to replace them more frequently.

    I have just made the step to lipo in the last 2 weeks, you wont regret it.
    i got mine at Rclipos.com

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by PropNutt43 View Post
    TRUNKMUNKY,

    Would like to know what hull mods you have made, how to do them, pictures if possible. Your boat definitely turns great! Awesome video too! Please enlighten us.

    Also, are these the batteries you are running? And is this where you got them?

    http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6656

    Been dying to get some lipos and these look very affordable. The weight loss has got to help the handling.
    For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results, About the lipo batts,yes,those came from united,and were a bargin for the money.so I thought I would try them and have to say they are very good packs compared to some of the higherdollar packs I have.Only 20c 30c burst output ,so not the most powerful but as the video shows,still good bang for the buck,no signs of puffing or swelling after 3 charges,but I balanced charged them every time to be safe.Any lipo pack can puff and swell if the boat setup is not right or are mishandled or not charged properly .This setup for my BJ runs faster than stock,handles way better and runs very cool.Any good 7.4 pack with this setup will work great.If your new to lipo power,buy the best you can afford, and a good balance charger.Just showing what this setup will do for the handling problem not endorsing any one's batts.
    Last edited by TRUNKMUNKY; 05-14-2008 at 04:11 PM.

  19. #49
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    apples1... Were you running the stock hardware on your cat or do you have aftermarket? Propnutt stated that he used Fuller's hardware... So we can all learn from one another..
    Joe007

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUNKMUNKY View Post
    For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results, About the lipo batts,yes,those came from united,and were a bargin for the money.so I thought I would try them and have to say they are very good packs compared to some of the higherdollar packs I have.Only 20c 30c burst output ,so not the most powerful but as the video shows,still good bang for the buck,no signs of puffing or swelling after 3 charges,but I balanced charged them every time to be safe.Any lipo pack can puff and swell if the boat setup is not right or are mishandled or not charged properly .This setup for my BJ runs faster than stock,handles way better and runs very cool.Any good 7.4 pack with this setup will work great.If your new to lipo power,buy the best you can afford, and a good balance charger.Just showing what this setup will do for the handling problem not endorsing any one's batts.
    I looked around and I couldn't find anything. What prop are you using ?
    Vortex 22 hydro ammo 36-50
    Vortex Cyber Storm 33 P spec Mono AC 36-56
    PT SS-45 Q-hydro Neu 1527/1Y

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETOWNE View Post
    I looked around and I couldn't find anything. What prop are you using ?
    Not sure about the first part, of the question,but Im using the cen racing prop 42 mm.

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUNKMUNKY View Post
    Not sure about the first part..............cen racing prop 42 mm.
    I looked at all your post, thanks.
    Vortex 22 hydro ammo 36-50
    Vortex Cyber Storm 33 P spec Mono AC 36-56
    PT SS-45 Q-hydro Neu 1527/1Y

  23. #53
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    i was running stock setup, but am in the process of upgrading.

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apples1 View Post
    Those batts look a little dodgey propnut,anyhing with the word zippy in it make me shudder. they probabley need to 25c continues amp draw not 20, and also the cheaper the internal cells are the more likely they are to go "puff" and "boom",
    My best advice is get the best you can afford, if that is your budget then go for it, they will still be ok, but you may have to replace them more frequently.

    I have just made the step to lipo in the last 2 weeks, you wont regret it.
    i got mine at Rclipos.com
    Well I took a chance and ordered a pair of these Zippy K 7.4 Lipo packs:

    http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6656

    Showed up about 4 business days later. I have to say I'm impressed about their fast service and the quality of these batteries.

    I figured at 20c that’s 86 amps and 30c burst of 129 amps they should be fine. I'm still running the stock esc rated at 45 amp - 55 amp peak and stock motor rated about the same so they shouldn't even come close to maxing these batteries out.

    Got one run in today after work with these and man what a difference! Had the esc motor timing set on high. This thing really zings now and the handling has improved greatly with the loss of about 3/4 lb. The best part is these batteries barely got luke warm.

    Highly recommend going Lipo both for the speed and handling.
    Last edited by PropNutt43; 05-21-2008 at 09:32 PM.

  25. #55

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    Made a few mods to my boat and gave it a run today. Probably should make one change and a time, but I went after it this time. Swapped the stock drive for the TLR Skater II. Had to trim about 3/16" off the shaft, and cut one of the stock screws. Blind nut was spinning. Turned the tracking fins to match the angle of the hull. Prop changed to Octura M435 3 blade. TLR balanced and speed bead finish. pulled the stock battery trays and expoxied in new ones. 3/16" balsa running from 1/4" back at the front of the tray to about an inch from the transom. Gives me a little room to adjust CG. I was able to bend the stuffing tube up about 3/16" which lined the shaft up perfect to the strut on the Skater. I set the MaxAmps 2s 8ks back 1 1/4" from stock. Water had very small ripple at the park. The new prop seems to cavitate on the hole shot. Had to feed the throttle in easy to get the boat to plane out. Once it settled on plane throttle response was great and it looked faster on the water. Still some list in the tighter turns, but much better than stock handling. Next I'd like to shorten the T fins a bit. The bad news: Rudder hinge pin came loose and went to the bottom of the lake. As soon as it dropped the boat made a 90 deg turn and flipped. A fisherman who seemed thrilled about getting to see a FE boat run tied on a heavy spinner bait and made the rescue cast. Another guy rigged for cat fish came from the other side of the lake to see if he could help too. Got it home and made a new hinge pin from an 1/8" bit and stole a grub screw from a truck pinion to replace the missing one. Put it all back together with blue Lock-tight this time. Next mods: shorten the fins, switch to the Hyda 120a with external BEC or Rx pack, hang the Novak HV6.5 ot the Fiegao 7xl, or maybe the Nue 1512 1Y. Might be tuff to find a cooler for the Neu ribbed can though. Need to make an adapter to parallel the new 3S 8k packs, or steal one from my 3905s for series. How fast will this thing go with a 2380kv motor on 6 cell? Need more prop too I suppose.

  26. #56
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    Hi all another newbie enters the blackjack world lol

    well I'm just waiting on mine arriving should be here any day now Ive read all the pages and have found a lot of valuable information and made notes !!

    so I'm going lipo from the start as i have lipo's from my RC aircraft although Ive had to buy 2s as i have 3s and 4s just now. So can i expect to take her out the box grease and tape her up and have a blast or not ???? which brings me on to a few questions lol

    1
    i have a mega motor 16/25/2 would this work as an upgrade possibly in the future ? spec Specification
    Weight 111 g
    No load current Io 1.1
    Size 28x41,5 φ x L mm
    No load 2650 RPM/V
    Max. current 35 A
    Number of cells 4 - 16
    Max. diameter 28 mm
    Diameter of shaft 3,2 mm
    Max speed 55 000 revolution/min

    2
    with the stock set up can i change the prop ? and what should i get

    3
    how many cell (lipo) can the stock set up take IE can i use a pair of 3s


    sorry for so many questions but the more info you get the better it helps you understand this little rocket i can see the ££ signs fluttering in front of me already with all the mods that will inevitably be required as i get more and more comfortable with it

    Maxamus.............

  27. #57
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    MAXAMUS

    A pair of 2s packs will work fine with the stock setup until you can upgrade. Just make sure they are a minimum of 20c to 25c rated and at least 4000 mAh or they might puff or well you know. The loss in weight will definitely help the handling.

    I wouldn't attempt using 2 3s packs because the esc is not rated for that high of voltage, I believe 21v is the max.

    The motor you mentioned is actually smaller in diameter than the stock one and the shaft is not 5mm so it won't match up and probably won't have enough power.

    And yes, you can use other props on the stock drive because it comes with a 3/16 shaft adapter. But you won't be able to go much larger than 42mm or it might hit. Suggest x642 or x442 from Octura.

    Welcome aboard and enjoy!

  28. #58
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    propnutt
    thanks for the lipo advice but could you not use 3s packs or indeed 4s packs if you were to wire in parallel as voltage would stay the same 11.1v and mah would increase but then weight would become an issue i'am on to a prop thanks but just got a phone call last night to say there is a 3 week waiting time and its on back order ! well will give me time to prepare and absorb information

  29. #59
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    If you run the batteries in parallel they will work fine. 4s packs would be better because you might hit the low voltage cutoff too easy with the 3s packs, because the esc needs a minimum of 10v. Also you will lose a lot of speed with the lower voltage packs.

    With the batteries parallel you probably won't lose any weight but should get much longer run times. For me the weight loss is the bigger advantage when running Lipos because it helps the boat handle so much better.

    In a review on RC Universe there is some video footage of a completely stock BJ26 running 2s packs. Here's the link:

    http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=970

  30. #60
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    PropNutt- Did you have a chance to run the packs more? Also what balancing tabs does it come with? HP/PQ?
    My prop hasn't been wet in a while.

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