**Guys** help me build a boat DF Cyber Storm 33

[pyroM!KE]

Ive decided to build my very first boat..Im not new to FE boats but I am to building them..I have chosen the DF Cyber Storm hull..I pretty much have my electrics figured out..Im going 6s SK180 leopard 4082 ..
Here are my first questions..Is it better to run teflon in the brass tubing for the flexshaft or not? What size flex shaft size? 3/16??
Im looking for 55mph+ reliably..
Any tips would be well appreciated..
Also..Would this be a good hardware kit for this hull?http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ros-monosys

Ill keep the progress up on here complete with pics..I havent ordered anything yet..I will make a big order monday...

[bill34207]

Hi Mike. For the hull size you are actually in a P boat range (4s 2p) for competition use. Running 6s (Q class) you are allowed up to 40" on a hull.
The hardwre kit you have selected is semi good. The .150 flex is a little wimpy for the power you are looking to apply. You will be better off to get the individual components. Speedmaster 3/16 stinger Speedmaster .21 rudder .187 cable (octura and hughey are good as well but the OSE brand was the 1st I hit scrolling down the page) 1/4" brass tube works well for .187 without a teflon liner. I have stopped using the teflon in my boats as it has cost me a couple of flex cables after it started spinning inside the brass tube and the friction melted it to the point of sticking. Pick a motor coupler to match your motor's shaft size and the .187 cable.
I run a Neu 1521/1Y (1577 kv) motor in my DF33 with anywhere from an Octura X447/3 to X450/3 prop depending on water conditions and it runs well in the P mono class.

[pyroM!KE]

Yeah Ive got about everything in the cart.. I am getting the hardware you suggested..Also what do you think about a m545 prop? Would that be a good starting point? I am going with the SK180 and leapord 4082 1550 2y on 6s..

[bill34207]

You may overload your esc on 6s with the m545. You could easily get away with running a m645 on 4s though. I had the Neu in a Genesis cat at one time and ran it on 6s there but with a X640 to X642. The 642 only made it a couple of mph faster and really put a load on the batts. Running 6s 1p it was coming in with the packs around 140 degrees.

[LarrysDrifter]

You can start with an X445. For full eat mode and cool temps, use an X447/3. The latter prop will put you at 60-62 mph on gps.

[pyroM!KE]

Hi Mike. For the hull size you are actually in a P boat range (4s 2p) for competition use. Running 6s (Q class) you are allowed up to 40" on a hull.
The hardwre kit you have selected is semi good. The .150 flex is a little wimpy for the power you are looking to apply. You will be better off to get the individual components. Speedmaster 3/16 stinger Speedmaster .21 rudder .187 cable (octura and hughey are good as well but the OSE brand was the 1st I hit scrolling down the page) 1/4" brass tube works well for .187 without a teflon liner. I have stopped using the teflon in my boats as it has cost me a couple of flex cables after it started spinning inside the brass tube and the friction melted it to the point of sticking. Pick a motor coupler to match your motor's shaft size and the .187 cable.
I run a Neu 1521/1Y (1577 kv) motor in my DF33 with anywhere from an Octura X447/3 to X450/3 prop depending on water conditions and it runs well in the P mono class.

So when you ran the x447 and x450 was it on 6s?

[bill34207]

No. I'm running it on 4s 2p in my DF33 mono. Here's a P mono heat from a couple runs back with the 447 3 blade. Mine is the white one. Didn't realize it until watching the video but did 8 laps on our 1/6 mile course. (I cut a marker and meant to run 7 for the penalty lap). It was still less than 120 degrees on everything in the boat when I brought it in. The one boat that did pass me was RayR's with a Lep 4082 2200 kv. Unfortunately, his motor self destructed about the time he got by and he coasted off to the inside of the course.

[pyroM!KE]

Another questiuon..What is the best resin to use on the motor mount and stuffing tube? Also.Is this hull pretty tough..Do I need to reinforce it?
What is the best method to bond this mount to hull? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80600

[bill34207]

I suppose everybody has their own methods but I use 30 minute Zpoxy mixed with milled fiberglass for sticking down that type of mount. If you want to be really sure of it's attachment come back after it's cured with a strip of 5 oz glass cloth that goes up past the holes in the bottom of the mount and about an inch onto the hull.
On the hull itself, I'm not that familiar with the cyber storm. My DF33 had 4" rails pre installed in it when it came in new. (and contribute greatly to bottom strength) It has survived a few years of abuse so far but getting close to needing replacement. About one more "incident" that results in structural damage and I'll be building a new one.

[pyroM!KE]

I suppose everybody has their own methods but I use 30 minute Zpoxy mixed with milled fiberglass for sticking down that type of mount. If you want to be really sure of it's attachment come back after it's cured with a strip of 5 oz glass cloth that goes up past the holes in the bottom of the mount and about an inch onto the hull.
On the hull itself, I'm not that familiar with the cyber storm. My DF33 had 4" rails pre installed in it when it came in new. (and contribute greatly to bottom strength) It has survived a few years of abuse so far but getting close to needing replacement. About one more "incident" that results in structural damage and I'll be building a new one.

Im a newb at this so bear with me..Where do you get milled fiberglass? Also..Im gonna install the Speedmaster stinger..How do you determine where exactly to drill the stuffing hole and mount Stinger mount?

[bill34207]

We were all newbies at one time or another and I'm still no expert. I get my milled glass from a local hobby shop but if you don't have one it can be found at Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK312&P=7
Easiest way I've found (had suggested to me when I was still a newb) to locate the stinger is to use double sided tape. Mark your vertical center line on the transom and use the double sided tape to stick the stinger to it with the center of the stinger centered on the mark you made on the transom. On mine the bottom of the stinger is about 3/32 to 1/8" from the bottom of the ride pad. You can actually use the stinger base as a drilling template with this method.

[pyroM!KE]

We were all newbies at one time or another and I'm still no expert. I get my milled glass from a local hobby shop but if you don't have one it can be found at Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK312&P=7
Easiest way I've found (had suggested to me when I was still a newb) to locate the stinger is to use double sided tape. Mark your vertical center line on the transom and use the double sided tape to stick the stinger to it with the center of the stinger centered on the mark you made on the transom. On mine the bottom of the stinger is about 3/32 to 1/8" from the bottom of the ride pad. You can actually use the stinger base as a drilling template with this method.

Bill i appreciate all your help.. Using the stinger as a template, can you explain more how to do that..Im not sure I understand how your saying..

Also..Should I get medium (68mm) or large (75mm)turn fins? how do I determine the placement of the turn fins on the transom ?

[bill34207]

Wish I had a hull that needed drilling. Photos can help a lot when trying to explain something like this. OK we'll try anyways. Transom marked with vertical center line (for centering the stinger) Stinger gets removed from the base (this has to be done to access the top mounting bolt hole anyways). Double sided tape (I use a thin clear tape) is applied to the stinger base and position it so the base is centered over the line you made on the transom and with the bottom of it about 3/32" up from the bottom of the ride pad. Drill the mounting holes first then pop the base back off. Open up the mounting holes to the size specified in the sheet that comes with the Speedmaster stinger. Bolt the stinger to the hull and then drill the stuffing tibe hole. Best I recall, the opening in the stinger is either 1/4" or possibly 9/32". Use a short piece of tubing that does fit the hole in the stinger and a drill bit that fits inside the tube. Put the tube in place in the stinger's base hole then drill down through it and through the hull.

On the fins, use the large ones. They should be placed as far outboard as possible and set so the fins are at a 90 degree angle to the hull's V. I do have a photo of the placement for these from my 47" mono.

[pyroM!KE]

Ok.I think I have everything I need in the cart..Before I order everything is there anything recommended to get to assist building? tools ect... anything to help with the build..

[bill34207]

If you have a drill & bits, assorted allen wrenches, some small sockets or nut drivers, pliers, screwdrivers, etc you should be good to go.
Things I'm bad about forgetting are the cooling line bulhead fittings and water exits, prop dogs, prop nuts etc.

[pyroM!KE]

Im going 6s 2p..What size batts should I use..I want the biggest I can run but I dont know what the max weight and dimension speks would be..Im thinking 3000-4000mah in parallel totaling 6000-8000 mah..

[bill34207]

Determined to do it ain't ya? I'm really at a loss for any cut n dried advice in this one. That's a really small hull to try to pack 6s 2p into. I got a feeling you are going to kill your "reliable" factor along the way as well. Still, if you are determined to do it I'd suggest waiting til you get the hull. You can always cut up some styrofoam chunks to duplicate pack sizes and see what can be fitted inside along with your motor and esc.

Some things to consider as I try to talk you out of it. If you decided you wanted to race it, you would be stuck running in Q class and against boats with a hull length of up to 40". Which do you think would fare better in race chop?
With 6s you are peaking out both your esc and motor. From what I have seen (in person and some threads on RCG) the Lep 4082 doesn't really like being "peaked". You don't have to take my word for this one, ask RayR what happens when you load one with what it's rated for. Buzz it at high rpm in a race scenario and you'll most likely throw a magnet like he did. On 4s I think your motor will live considerably longer and you should still get your low to mid 50's that you want after you get it propped right.

[pyroM!KE]

Hmm..ya got me thinking hard now.. :)
I want this boat to ultimately do 55 reliably..I will sacrifice some handling for speed and battery capacity..I dont plan on racing..Just bashing..Could I get close to that on 4s? Mabey 5s?

[bill34207]

I'll say that my DF33 runs in the 50's on 4s 2p with the X450/3 prop. It's never been GPS'd to back that up (not really enough room to put a GPS in it) but an educated guess. And it's reliable as it doesn't pull a lot of amps with the setup that's in it. It's also competitive in the P mono class. 4s 2p would be a low stress setup for your Leopard at it's kv rating so it should live a longer life there. My Neu is a 1577 kv your Lep is a 1550 kv. They are really close in the kv range.

Something like the DF35 would be a better choice for a 6s hull. But you'd really need a different motor as well if you want to keep the reliability factor. You might get away with running the Lep on 5s but 6 would be really pushing your luck. Something like a Neu 1527/1y would be my choice for a 6s Q boat. I like reliable. If I don't finish a heat I want it to be because my boat is floating upside down, not because it's been filled with magic smoke.

[highflyerbill]

I agree with bill34207 , I run a pursuit 33" hull with a lep 4074 2000kv with an x642 it goes like HE** but the batt. packs come back at 135 to 140 deg. F with a M445 it's still a fast boat but the packs come back 110 to 115 F this is on 4s1p 5000 pack . This is just my opinion ,if your going to run it on the ragged edge it's going to cost you in ruined packs,motors,and ESC's . One more thing I hope you ordered ride plates . You'll have fun buliding it and a blast running it .

[pyroM!KE]

The more I think about it and listening to you guys info I know what its gonna take to build one..But I think I may consider a 35 inch hull. Ride plates? Are you talking about trim tabs or plates for the batts?

Why wouldnt the 4082 be enough for the 35 DF....If I get the 35 df ill get the 1450 kv and run it on 6s.. That would be a good setup wouldnt it?

[bill34207]

Ah, so you're not yet committed on the motor. The 1450 will probably live on 6s operation but keep in mind it's a D wind and will probably toast your esc if you get the timing a little too high. If you could find a Castle 1717 they make an excellent motor for 6s operation. At 1580 kv it's actually a higher revving motor than the Lep would be but it can handle it. I have 3 of them in use at the moment. Two in my big Expresscraft Thunderbolt cat and another in an Aeromarine Sprintcat .40. Both boats are pretty wicked in the running department.

Coming back to hulls, you might even consider one of the Promise Hobby 39" monos. It would give you a little more room and they do handle well.
scorpion1 (on RC Groups) aka make-a-wake (here on OSE) has one of them. It was his 39" one that caused me to buy the 47" one for myself.

[pyroM!KE]

Just ordered my new boat..I got the DF Cyber Storm..I dont know what it is about that boat but I love it.. Probably gonna try 5s and 6s..I think with the right prop I can get at least 50 reliably..Well see how this goes..Ive seen plenty of 4082 1550 setups on 6s on youtube with reports of great results..What is good about this is if I dont like the 1550kv Ill just throw in a 2000 kv on 4s..Im gonna be another contestant..Looking at 4s 5000 pack dimensions and weights, the 3000 6s packs are pretty darn close (either way ill run 2p setup for more run time)..I will have a crap load of pics going along with this build..
Im so excited about my first build..Im not gonna just throw it together either..This should be a nice build..I pretty much have it in my head exactly how the build will go..Thanks guys!!

[bill34207]

That will work too. I'll still stick around and lend a hand for what I can but you're on your own for squeezing the packs in.

[pyroM!KE]

Ok.. Now all I need is prop and batts..Ill get the batts later..But with the 1550 on 6s which prop is a good one? The x447/3 ?

[bill34207]

Hmmm... I smell something cooking and I don't think it's Thanksgiving dinner.
The 447/3 would be safe on 4s but for 6 you might want to start with a 442 or 642.

[pyroM!KE]

There are guys talking about running x450/3 cut to 47mm..That prop has slightly more pitch even and there saying they have cool temps in there DF 33's on that..I dont know..I wish I could get some first hand experience comments with this setup...

[LarrysDrifter]

I have first hand experience with 2 Cyberstorm hulls. One with a Castle 1520 1600kv and the other with a Leopard 4082 1550kv. Both are run on 6s. The Castle motor is run 6s2p using two 5000mAh packs and two 2650mAh packs for its 2p. The prop is an X447/3. Boat runs great with temps ranging 120-145 depending on water temps.(These temps have been observed during the summer months).
The Leopard Cyberstorm runs 6s1p using two 3s 5000mAh packs in series. This boat uses the same prop and will use the 50mm 3 blade cut down. Temps are in the same range as the Castle hull. One thing to remember on the Cyberstorm is that they like turn fins...from my experience anyway. Nothing against Bill, but the 447/3 will not cook anything. Just make sure to get the ride attitude right and youll be good to go. A good starting prop is an X445.

[pyroM!KE]

I have first hand experience with 2 Cyberstorm hulls. One with a Castle 1520 1600kv and the other with a Leopard 4082 1550kv. Both are run on 6s. The Castle motor is run 6s2p using two 5000mAh packs and two 2650mAh packs for its 2p. The prop is an X447/3. Boat runs great with temps ranging 120-145 depending on water temps.(These temps have been observed during the summer months).
The Leopard Cyberstorm runs 6s1p using two 3s 5000mAh packs in series. This boat uses the same prop and will use the 50mm 3 blade cut down. Temps are in the same range as the Castle hull. One thing to remember on the Cyberstorm is that they like turn fins...from my experience anyway. Nothing against Bill, but the 447/3 will not cook anything. Just make sure to get the ride attitude right and youll be good to go. A good starting prop is an X445.

X445 Is that the 3 blade?

Also do you have any built pics of your Cyber storm?

[LarrysDrifter]

Its a 2 blade. The Castle C.S. Is Suckmywakes, a member here. Look up his profile, then look under his "started threads" and youll see that one. The Leo C.S. I recently finshed building for a friend. Ill have to take pics of it soon to post for you.