This is our prototype 10s rigger with Castle 2028 motor, Swordfish 240hv esc and 2 5s Hyperion 45c 5000mah packs. Hope to get it in the water in about 2 weeks.
This is our prototype 10s rigger with Castle 2028 motor, Swordfish 240hv esc and 2 5s Hyperion 45c 5000mah packs. Hope to get it in the water in about 2 weeks.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Me wants one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
that thing ought to hit high 90's at least.....glad i wont be anywhere around it when u run it lol
MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
I'm estimating 70mph in oval race trim. If i hit that with a 14 pound rough water boat, I will have a huge smile on my face.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
bill 32407 ran 70.8 with a 47 in mono with 10s and the cc2028........
MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
That is impressive.I gotta get another rigger.
very cool man!
this thing is going to be sweet!
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
The budget part was a joke. It suckered all of us here, didnt it? Now look, we re addicted. Steve is like the Marlboro of FE. Good luck, Steve. Hope you post results and maybe a video.
I'm going to guess based on your ability to purchase bits for yourself a little cheaper and say $600-$800 without the hull?
And on that note, did you make the rigger yourself or is it based off a gas hull Steve? Can we purchase these? Been wanting a big rigger=P
6BOOST
6boost Turbo Manifolds, Australia's number 1 turbo kit specialist and manufacturer
Not including the radio and batteries less than $500.00
The motor was purchased at the old castle pricing, before the big price increase.
The esc is used, I bought it for someone for 1/2 of what they cost me.
Coupler, strut and rudder are from stock.
The hull is a test prototype. I wont be sure where it takes us until we get it in the water.Your gonna have to tell us..Cuz dangit I want one..Ill sell one of my HPI bajas to get one of those!! No really..I need to know.. :)
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
Looking good Steve Looks a lot like my old Roadrunner rigger being converted with a NEU 1527 .5 Y for saw.
keep us informed please
Dave
Steven any chance of getting some pics of the boat on the water?
I'd love to feature it in the calendar if you can get me some soon also a pic of the inside showing batteries and setup would be great!
Let me know.
Thanks
OSE GIFTING ELF
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Steve;
what prop are you going to try on the first run?
If you are interested in using the ABC props, I can steer you in the direction of usage.
Steven;
use the 2214 and the 2314 props.
They have 78.232 (3.080") and 81.788mm (3.222") of pitch repsectively. BUT they have a hidden (so to speak) 4.34 inches of pitch
built into the trailing edge of the blades.
They are a more efficient prop then the octuras and you set them up with the strut being level.
Then you could go to a 2216 then 2316 if the amp draw is acceptable.
Last edited by carlcisneros; 11-24-2011 at 10:46 PM.
Thanks Carl!
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
Welcome Steven.
Steve, the ESC in that location may cause problems because of the looong battery leads. Cap bank or mount esc over motor and make a bubble hatch.
70 should be no problem.
Data logger a must at these power levels.
If you need info on how to convert the 150 amp ET to 300 amp in 15 min. let me know.
Jim Caldwell
Would you let me know please?
Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.
On the wire lead ET, loop 12 ga. wire from esc side directly to batt. side bypassing the board entirely for both the + and - . This will bypass current, about 1/2, and let it run much cooler. In short, you now have a red wire and a black wire going from the + and - plugs on the battery side plugs directly to the plugs on the esc side plugs or two wires in each plug one set to the E/T and one set bypassing the E/T completly. I am using 8mm plugs! You now have a 300 amp logger!
Next you need to access a Clamp on amp meter, clamp it around the battery leads and run the system up under a load for 15 seconds or so logging the data and compare the amp readings between the them. The ET will have a reading of about 1/2 half of the clamp on meter.
Now connect your ET to the computer, go to "Advanced programing" click on "Calibrate volt and amps" and enter the actual readings in the appropriate boxes and save.
That all there is to it! Welcome to the 300 amp club! I have recorded 282 amps on rigger launch but the E/T only saw 132 amps because my correction factor turned out to be 2.12.
Jim Caldwell
pictures please?
thanks
Attachment 64930Attachment 64931OK, I guess I used less than a thousand words, so here are the pictures. lol
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