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Thread: Rio EP brushless conversion HELP??????? plz

  1. #61
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    This is the motor that I have on 3s, gps at 32mph.
    I have not tried 4s yet with it.

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=6527

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    This is the motor that I have on 3s, gps at 32mph.
    I have not tried 4s yet with it.

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=6527
    well, i looked at the other brushless i have and its the exact motor you have on yours. I might have to pick up a 3s compatible ESC cuz mine is 4s.

    can you tell me what prop your using?
    Its 27 degree's F out here, ponds are freezing up i'll have to find a flowing river to test this thing when i get to making some trim tabs and turn fins. I will be buying a rudder for $15'sh, you recommend like 75mm or 90mm? how far back from transom?

  3. #63
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    I am using a x440/3 prop and a 120a esc with added caps, It also ran good with a s215 prop.
    Off the transom to the back of rudder is 4",
    And from the center of flex shaft to the rudder bracket its 1 9/16,
    Rudder size is top were water nipple gos in,To bottom 3 3/4".

    Merry Xmas,
    TTYL.

  4. #64
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    CAUTION: lipos suffer non-benign failure modes that can lead to high heat (from run-away current)...hot enough to set the battery and/or items in its vicinity afire....just in case you have not already heard. I've had lipos swell up spontaneously, from fool-hardy attempts to trickle-charge a pack back to life, and they have not gotten fire-hot that I ever noticed. But, lipos can catch fire, and many a hobbyist's house has burned down as a result (google for it).
    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    one battery swelled up like a damn sausage.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    on 2x2s 5000mah ...i only got about 12 minutes of run time
    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    most of that video was full throttle
    BOAT CONSUMPTION = 60 amps* for 12 mins = 60*12/60 (amps*mins/(mins/hr)) = 12 amp hrs

    * Spartan ESC may well run over 60 Amps.

    BATTERY PRODUCTION** = 1x5000mah = 1x5000/1000 (milliamps/(milliamps/amp)hrs = 5 amp hrs

    Inefficiences/burst current, not included above, drive consumption up and production down...so I am surprised those lipos ran that long, even accounting for over-discharge.

    ** Corrected for Make-A-Wake's observation that you are running 4S.
    Last edited by JoeOvercoat; 12-27-2011 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Corrected for 4S

  6. #66
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    If im following correctly he is using 2 x 2s 5000 mah batts for 4s 5000mah total. If so and he got 12 minutes, thats why his cells swelled up.................12 minutes is a freakin eternity running an FE boat, the 47" mono in my signature gets 4 minutes on 10,000 mah to give you an idea of how short runs can be........ A low voltage cutoff is needed with Lipos to stop an over-discharge situation which sounds like occurred with amino............
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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    that might be correct, not sure if thats what the charger means that it only gave it that much mah. on 2x2s 5000mah ...i only got about 12 minutes of run time in this last video. ... doesn't seem right does it?

    another note, i took out the spartan too and one battery swelled up like a damn sausage. turnigy said take a pic, we need to see volts of each cell and send the email. wtf?
    Heads up,

    You need to cut back on your run times some or

  8. #68
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    very informative guys. I'm new to LiPo's honestly. a lipo safety switch i should definately get, especially for that expensive spartan.
    IF i recall correctly the spartan has built in voltage cut off?? i'm pretty sure i read in the manual that at certain voltage the esc will only allow 25% or maybe more just enough to get back to shore. I might be wrong on this???


    In this RIO EP Im considering going down to a 380/ 28mm size motor instead of the 540 size/36mm but that opens the motor mount issues. The main reason why i wanted to stick with 36-5+ size motors is direct fit.

    If i get a 70 birdie ESC from hobby wing what would be a good motor and prop, feels like starting from ground zero!!!
    I will be replicating Lenny's set up since i already have that exact motor, i'll place an order for that 70amp ESC and run 3s with x438 or x440 like lenny's. A 75mm rudder with water pickup is on its way now, meanwhile i'll be working on those trim tabs and turn fins.

    Not sure what to do at this point. the 3656 2600kv i might throw in my SV27 or even this this 3660 2200kv.
    Last edited by aminoacid; 12-28-2011 at 01:48 AM.

  9. #69
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    A 28mm diameter motor can be installed by reaming/grinding the mounting holes each inward to fit the smaller mounting radius. You can stay with a 3650 if you go with something like this motor which is 1500kv, can still be run on 4s and be a bit tamer, and has a 3.175mm shaft which means you would have to get a different coupler.

    http://www.nitrorcx.com/96m296-3650-1500kv-25t.html
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  10. #70
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    That Motor is 900 watts, is that too much or it just means less run time.

  11. #71
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    Ratings are often deceptive, if you run it with a tame prop it shouldnt pull more than around 40a which on 4s puts you in the 550-600w range. The kv is alot more forgiving than the 2200.
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  12. #72
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    You should go to a seaking 120a esc, For the money,http://www.hobbypartz.com/index.html
    It will be a better for any future setups you may want to do later on.http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-6219634...5_2189_3104858
    And this jacket will work with stock motor mount, I have the old number jacket. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...cket_small.jpg
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-mjacket

  13. #73
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    somebody wanted to see pics of how my motor is mounted.
    IMG_0354.jpgIMG_0355.jpgIMG_0356.jpgIMG_0357.jpgIMG_0358.jpg

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Barnacle View Post

    Now I have a question for you...
    Where the heck do you put the battery(s)?? Considering that you have the ESC mounted to the battery tray... Just curious...


    And Barnacles suck - they slow your boat down.
    I actually put the battery on the battery tray under the ESC. I tried to balance out the boat, but my setup is not set in stone yet. until i get the right prop, motor, esc and trim tabs and rudder......basically everything!!

    My question is how do i remove the radio box without damaging the hull?? I need to setup the new rudder and drill a hole for a single aftermarket rudder.

  15. #75
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    You will need to destroy the box,
    Very carefully peace by peace and the bottom parts that are glued will stay their.
    Just take your time and make flat as possible,
    If you try to take the glued parts left out, You will rip the hull apart.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    You will need to destroy the box,
    Very carefully peace by peace and the bottom parts that are glued will stay their.
    Just take your time and make flat as possible,
    If you try to take the glued parts left out, You will rip the hull apart.
    and what plans or ideas is there for a new radio box if i destroy this?

  17. #77
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    No radio box, But save the wood peaces for servo mount and etc,
    Most boats and modded boats do not us them any more.
    They take up to much room and you just need a glove or balloon for the rx,
    Or 3M water proof spray, If you can find it.

  18. #78
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    Hey Billy, thanks for the information, i'm sure it took you a while to type all that out and i appreciate it.
    I'm new to RC boating. First boat was a shockwave 55 gasoline, loved the fact i can run that bad boy for 30 minutes of full throttle and beating the hell out of it, along with letting my boys have at it, granted did flip belly up few times but nothing that can't be dried/replaced.

    so i just wanted a quick little basher boat nothing spectacular. intent was only pop in a motor and maybe a prop cuz i already had the AQ esc from a UL-1. I'm starting to think that the ESC's technology isn't suitable for this little fart of a boat RIO. Anyways one thing led to another..... I seen videos of people who have done this to their RIO with great results, high 20's low 30's all out. i'm OK with mid 20's. I know the rudders were causing an issue cuz the boat would start to move in an "S" shape line, not that hard but suttle left to right, to the point the rudder went perpendicular on me. So looking at other's the put a single offset rudder to the right of the transom so i picked one up off ebay for 10 bucks shipped, havne't received or installed yet. I will try to keep the original radio box and swap places of the original servo and receiver, but i need to drill a hole for the pushrod that will be pushing the new rudder.
    I know the boat isn't worth putting all that work into it and trust me i dont plan on putting much more in it if this doesn't work i'm done with it. I do have an SV 27 brand new with hardware, except motor an esc so I will spend a bit more effort with that one, but again i'm still a beginner and dont expect much out of the sv27 either, if i'm lucky 35mph which will be more than enough for me.
    I do have a traxxas spartan i picked up for a good price in like new condition, box and all, kid used it couple times with the NiMh batteries and thats it. I put lipo's in it and its a quick, fun, stable for the most part boat. I'm sure others will have complaints on that one too but its fine for an RTR.

    A bit off topic but I do like the PURSUIT and its RTR. i've seen it in mid 400's and mid 200's from VALUE HOBBY . Seems there are differences with this one and the mid 400's i've seen on OSE 's forums, some guy updates/builds/sells them or something of that nature. He has adjustable stinger and different motor and ESC. I will finish the SV27 and see how that goes before diving into another project.

    Wanna buy a RIO EP......? grind, cut, mod, set of fire if you wish?

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    This is the motor that I have on 3s, gps at 32mph.
    I have not tried 4s yet with it.

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=6527
    Hey lenny, which ESC do you have?

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    Hey lenny, which ESC do you have?
    This one, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=hef-sword-120
    But I do not really like it, I would buy a seaking 120a.

  21. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    This one, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=hef-sword-120
    But I do not really like it, I would buy a seaking 120a.
    So this one Seaking 120a will I need a programming card? haven't the slightest idea about timings and programming. I thought they were all plug and play.
    Last edited by aminoacid; 01-07-2012 at 01:17 PM.

  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by aminoacid View Post
    So this one Seaking 120a will I need a programming card? haven't the slightest idea about timings and programming. I thought they were all plug and play.
    No, a programming card is NOT needed, i can set the 5 parameters in my sleep with the transmitter based on the beep sequence, its very simple!!
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  23. #83
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    Damn, Billy. Chill out. Nobody is trying to get anyone to waste their money. There is a reason he suggested the esc he did. Ill let him explain it. There is no need to be harsh here. Most of us get along just fine, but sometimes people come along and act like an asshole. Dont be that guy.

  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Barnacle View Post
    Lenny,
    Your obviously an experienced user, that's why you can set the 5 parameters in your sleep using your transmitter based on the beep sequence.
    But like me, aminoacid is new to brushless. Expecting us to be able to do that is a bit off base; I have downloaded & read the manual, and I don't find it the least bit easy to program (HobbyWing) ESC's using the transmitter.

    This programming module... http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-hobbyw...ogramcard.html -- only costs $15, and the frustration it will save will be worth 5x that amount.

    I have Traxxas Stampede that I plan on upgrading to BL in the near future. HobbyPartz sells complete kits with motor, esc and the above programming card. As you can see, that programming card can be used for: aircraft/heli's, cars/trucks & boats.

    What if aminoacid decides to try out one of those other R/C hobbies?? Having that programming card on hand will make it a lot easier for him to program HobbyWing ESC's for those models as well as his boat.

    Like aminoacid, I too have an AQ Rio EP that I have been working on upgrading to brushless. The Mickey Mouse stock motor mount was causing motors to burn up left & right. So I took it out and adapted a Cen Racing AquaJet EP aluminum mount to my boat, I'm in the process of putting the final touches on that conversion.

    I plan on using a HobbyWing ESC regradless of which motor I choose. But monies tight & I'm still trying to learn about BL setups for boats, much different than cars/trucks, so going to do the Traxxas first - so I'll already have the programming card when it comes time to do the boat.

    And now I have a question for you...
    Why on Gods green earth are you so hung up on 120a~200a ESC's?? - Look at the pictures that aminoacid has posted of his boat. He's got a AQ 60a ESC - so why does he need "need" a 120a ESC?? To waste his money?? Or just for bragging on some forum??
    First off, I'm not Lenny, and secondly since you couldnt understand that i was referring to the fact that it is simple to use.........I'm sure everyone else could understand that and i dont see the need for someone to spend money when he is smart enough to read and follow the instructions. Do you even own a T120................or a boat?

    Your big long "copy and paste" posts are not very helpful as people cant ingest all that stuff and wont on this forum...............
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  25. #85
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    Quote Mr. Barnacle

    "And now I have a question for you...
    Why on Gods green earth are you so hung up on 120a~200a ESC's?? - Look at the pictures that aminoacid has posted of his boat. He's got a AQ 60a ESC - so why does he need "need" a 120a ESC?? To waste his money?? Or just for bragging on some forum??"


    You obviously dont read cuz you are too busy trying to give everyone advice when you dont have a clue about FE boating
    He has a 4s only ESC dude!!! He cannot run 3s on it which he said he wanted to try and the 120a can run any voltage up to 6s AND its only 49 bucks and he can use it if he upgrades.......................you need to keep it shut with all your bogus advice!!!!!!!!!!

    Smoke on that Barnacle
    Last edited by Make-a-Wake; 01-07-2012 at 08:05 PM.
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  26. #86
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    yea currently i only have the 60amp UL1 ESC that only runs on 4s, nothing more, nothing less which sucks for this rio ep.
    I picked up a 3650 1500kv and will try that on my current setup after the turn fins, trim tabs, and single rudder 75mm. If that doesn't work then, my next attempt will be
    this linkified ------> MOTOR and ESC with 3S batteries. Motor is a 36mm because of the fins can but 2848 power.
    I also have a x437 prop on the way from Steve here on OSE.
    Somebody here has the 3656 at 2600kv on 3s with 120esc hitting 30mph, aftermarket rudder and trim tabs, turn fins. Original stuffing tube.
    Point being this is VERY possible.
    No need for hostility guys, its a hobby and we're all sharing experiences and knowledge, no other more fun way to do this hobby.
    The only acceptable fights and bickering is from a few hot NFL cheerleaders or maybe college.

    Thoughts???????

  27. #87
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    My thought is to see the hot cheerleaders.

  28. #88
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    Thanks.

  29. #89
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    barnacle, keep up the good work: telling these guys who have, in many cases, spent years doing this stuff! i say, go get 'em, because i sense a conspiracy against you involving some of these experienced hobbyists.

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