Shawn's Shocker

[tiqueman]

Batteries in sponsons, escs on tunnel.

[Rumdog]

I wouldnt directly solder. Just for maintenance reasons really. It'll be a lot easier if you dunk it to pull the esc's and dry em out if you just use bullets.

[srislash]

Batteries in sponsons, escs on tunnel.

I was just mulling cramming the ESC's in the sponsons as well as the batteries,but it will work out better for Rx wires on the tunnel.They do look good there as well .Guess I'll have to build a CF tray for them.Thanks guys,oh and I was just thinking of the cap temps with direct soldering.I know wire length is more important on the battery side.

[srislash]

Well,the ESC answer came to me on the way to work this past week in sortof a "Duh" fashion.So here's my solution:
ESC 002.jpgESC 004.jpg
This way all my wires can remain short as I logged a substantial difference when I shortened them.I was able to read the ripple with my Ice 240 on my MG.
Keeping cap temps down is the goal here.I'm still contemplating soldering ESC to motor direct as these motor wires aren't too big and my SW's are waterproofed.
I also installed pins in the front as I have found a decent waterproof for the hatch.(I'll get to that later)
ESC 001.jpg
I hope to get to water lines today as my other supplies have not arrived yet.

[tiqueman]

Looks good Shawn. I hope by your comment of finding a way to "waterproof" the hatch, you will still use tape.

[srislash]

Looks good Shawn. I hope by your comment of finding a way to "waterproof" the hatch, you will still use tape.

Probably not at first.In my searches for a good hydro and keeping my eyes peeled for my waverunner,many,if not all claim to have the paint peeled by the tape.I do however,know it will greatly help keep the lid on in a mishap.CC Ice 240-RIP.So I will do everything in my power to avoid this missing clear thing.

[tiqueman]

Just remember, unless your puttinga few bolt connections down each side, your hull will probably flex enough to let water in in a crash and may end up cracking or breaking elswhere. As long as you prepped it well, you shouldnt have any paint issues, and if you do, you can always repair it. Tape it, tape it, tape it. Another thing ive seen done, get some 3M clear vinyl and put some an inch wide on both the hatch perimeter and deck opening perimeter. then tape to that.

[srislash]

Thats a great plan!! Awesome plan Scott my man,another tip from the great.Blushing yet?HeheWhy didn't I think of that.

[tiqueman]

No but my head is getting HUGE Ive thought of doing it on almost every build Ive done, and still havent done it. However, my next personal build I will probably be doing it on.

[Gimp]

Another thing ive seen done, get some 3M clear vinyl and put some an inch wide on both the hatch perimeter and deck opening perimeter. then tape to that.

I love that idea! Could I just use hatch tape though? I use that Howie's Hockey Tape stuff.

[tiqueman]

Im not sure if that would stay down or not. id imagine it would come up pretty quick.

[Gimp]

Im not sure if that would stay down or not. id imagine it would come up pretty quick.

Gotcha, I guess the 3M stuff is pretty sticky lol

[srislash]

No but my head is getting HUGE Ive thought of doing it on almost every build Ive done, and still havent done it. However, my next personal build I will probably be doing it on.

I do it on my scale trail trucks around the body pins,just didn't think of that. I guess my vinyl graphics guy should have some of that,now that I have a guy.

[monojeff]

I do it on my scale trail trucks around the body pins,just didn't think of that. I guess my vinyl graphics guy should have some of that,now that I have a guy.

The clear 3M or any other brand is actually not considered vinyl it is laminate.
There are varying thicknesses and types of sheen you can get.

If the paint job is done correctly there should not be a need for this but it is a xtra precaution you could take to make sure no issues will happen with pulling the tape.
Hockey tape is medium tacky and can cause some paint to peel. If it is something your worried about I would recommend using electrical tape which is less tacky and should have no issues with paint peeling. I have even seen some guys using blue painters tape as hatch tape seamed to work good for them.

[srislash]

Thanks for the advice Jeff.I am gonna prep as good as I can but there is gonna be alot of clear on this boat.

[srislash]

Here's the ins n' outs for the cooling.
water 001.jpgwater 002.jpg
I put the outlets under the riser's for the suito exhaust/turbine vents.Thats what I'm gonna call them anyway,It's just a "cool" detail for effect.

[srislash]

Hi guys.Figured it was time for an update on the Shocker.I fully disassembled her and started paint.I used this Krylon Premium Chrome paint for the windsheild and trimmed it with Black pinstripe.Used a similar testors silver,mixed some black with that for the darker charcoal,and red for a highlight color.I cleared between colors in hopes for a deeper effect.
Paint 002.jpgPaint 001.jpg
Almost forgot,I painted the ride surface.Didn't need any treatment/putty beforehand.
Was contemplating something on the sponson tops but thought I'd ask for opinions.I was thinking just a small pinstripe graphic or something,or maybe just leave it and clear.I look forward to opinions on it.Thanks,Shawn

[tim v]

looks great man cant wait to see it go...

[srislash]

Yo bud,it's warming up around here.You haven't even seen Miss Behavin' go yet.We should remedy that soon.

[6BOOST]

That paintwork looks amazing mate, one of the coolest yet simplest paint schemes I have seen in a while.

6BOOST

[Mattwarner]

Love it!!

[HYDROJERRY]

Great job sirslash, that realy sets off the carbon look..

[srislash]

Slipped up on the thread and forgot something.I had to make CF extensions in order to mount my hatch locks.Trying the Aeromarine ones this time.I drilled the piece so the resin would have more to grab and used some locking hand clamps to hold them while it cured.And here's a tip:I wrapped a piece of black garbage bag between the clamp and the piece so nothing stayed glued together that was not desired to.I discovered resin does not stick to the plastic garbage bag.

[nata2run]

Really nice work, love the CF on the whole boat

[launchpad]

Hey There;
Found your build,that would be a fast boat.Surprised you got a carbon fibre hull.Anyway;in one of the threads it states something about drilling out the stingers.You shoul see if you can get the ball bearings which I did get.They came with the powertrims as an option.I ordered them from a company in Germany.It cost not that much.I think I spent around $100.00 but don't quote me.
here is the address if you want to check them out. http://www.rc-raceboats.de/shop/index.They fit just right.A little tight but no problems installing them.I lost a small package with bearings and spacer so I ordered another set>Had them in 10 days;FROM GERMANY.I find I can get certain parts from there faster than USA.There is another site for them.This is the one I got mine from.
Here is another one,I believe they are one in the same company. Check them out.

[srislash]

Question to the masses.I'm programming my Swordy's with the box and a question of Khz comes up,says 8,12 or 16.What do I do with this?

[lenny]

On my 9xl Iused 8khz it was recommended for most brushless motors,
12khz for low inductance motors,
16khz for very low inductance motors.

[srislash]

Thanks for explaining that Lenny.Hadn't run across it before.
I'm getting close to finish,well trying it out anyway.If I could just find my other thrust bearing,it was here....somewhere!!

[srislash]

Well fired up the ESC's tonight and I'm getting down to fine details.MAYBE THIS WEEKEND!!!!!!!
Hey guys,I was thinking of running my second longer antenna lead along the inside lip of the hatch in hopes of some signal through the CF being close to the surface.The other lead is up and out by my cross flags.Any experience or opinions?

[Jeff Wohlt]

Did you get cables?