Shawn's Shocker

[srislash]

Well here we go,just off one rebuild thread to today.Happy happy Joy joy:I recieved my Carbon fiber Shocker 950 from Fightercat.
Shocker 003.jpgShocker 002.jpgShocker 001.jpg
The packaging was awesome and not so much as a nick in her.I must say,the edges and flats of the sponsons are great.This is nice as I just did a ton of work to my MG sponsons.So far I have the 110mm stingers,200 amp Swordfish's and a pair of TP 1810 kv motors.I have everthing else ordered(I think).L&R 3/16 flex cables from Jeff Wohlt & tubes,A 5" dual pickup rudder and all the little pieces.She is to be run on 4's and 5's(6's SAW?) with 445 props ordered.
I don't know how my time will work out for this as I'm pretty busy at work and this is my first build thread and first build in a long time.So any hints or suggestions right off the bat.Oh yeah,did I mention this thing is superlight for it's size.

[tiqueman]

Awesome.

[Hinkelberry]

That thing is almost to pretty to paint. I vote for the carbon look

[tiqueman]

That thing is almost to pretty to paint. I vote for the carbon look

definitely, a few decals and call it done. HydroJerry did a nice job on his CF Daytona. Geico theme on CF, looks really nice and clean

[srislash]

You got it.Fightercat Diamondplate Logos and perhaps a name(its my thing).Other than that a whole can of U-pol clear 1.you got me hooked Scott.
Anyone know what would happen if I sanded the seam a little first.

[tiqueman]

Go easy and wet sand it. Youll have to wet sand the entire hull anyway if your going to clear it

[srislash]

Yup thats what I figured,I guess that I could add a little epoxy to smooth the seam.Sometimes I get fussy about these things.It'll be later anyway.

[tiqueman]

mmm, I dunno about adding epoxy. You may be asking for trouble. Not seeing it Im not ure how bad it is, but id probably scuff it, get it smooth and build it up w/ clear. until you cant feel it. clear it with a couple coats, wait a few days and sand it. if its smooth to touch, clear it again and your done. If not, repeat the process. Give it a couple more coats, wet sand it, if its good final clear it.

[highflyerbill]

If you intend to race the boat I would think twice about leaving it that color . If you flip it or it just quits on you during a heat it's going to be a hard boat for other drivers to pick up . I agree it will look awesome , but not a good choice for racing .Just my two cents .

[Vinlsol]

Cool Build. Keep us updated!

[srislash]

If you intend to race the boat I would think twice about leaving it that color . If you flip it or it just quits on you during a heat it's going to be a hard boat for other drivers to pick up . I agree it will look awesome , but not a good choice for racing .Just my two cents .

Yeah I agree with ya but so far there is no racing in my neck of the woods.I once had a black outrigger with a little chrome fishscale on it and nobody I was running with at that time liked it.Thanks for the input.

[srislash]

mmm, I dunno about adding epoxy. You may be asking for trouble. Not seeing it Im not ure how bad it is, but id probably scuff it, get it smooth and build it up w/ clear. until you cant feel it. clear it with a couple coats, wait a few days and sand it. if its smooth to touch, clear it again and your done. If not, repeat the process. Give it a couple more coats, wet sand it, if its good final clear it.

Sounds like good thinkin,time consuming but good.I can't do anything else on it till I get my flex's from Jeff Wohlt anyway.

[srislash]

Just thinkin of things I've missed and a question arises,When you drill out the stingers do you use a Speedmaster bushing or the lead teflon Octura ones.

[tiqueman]

did you not get 3/16 stingers????? I usually make my own bushings if Im gunna go the speedmaster type or the Octura. Both work well. I have found if I have to drilla 4mm stinger out, Ill often use homemade bushings since you can make a smaller outter lip and not have to drill the stinger as deep.

[srislash]

did you not get 3/16 stingers?????

Oh yeah,I did indeed.I guess I got a little confused with all the e-mails the other day,drilling had to do with the square drives and such and actually has nothing to do with my 3/16 stingers.My bad.Probably overthinking.

[srislash]

Here's a little update.I've been wet sanding the join seam on the hull.You can see in pic 1 the small lip/edge on it before it is sanded
seam 002.jpgseam 001.jpg
That is only rough sanded to knock it down.
And I have waterproofed the Swordfish' and made some CF sheet for assorted stuff.
cf 002.jpgcf 003.jpg

[Brushless55]

What about some see through colors??
or lay the graphics in the carbon and paint the rest a sweet color??

[srislash]

What about some see through colors??
or lay the graphics in the carbon and paint the rest a sweet color??

Yeah,I'm still playing with ideas and thats rolling around in there as well.

[srislash]

Well after much sanding and patience in waiting for the clear to dry the seam is gone,OK, not gone but nice and smooth.Ready for some clear.
seam 001.jpgseam 002.jpgseam 003.jpg

[srislash]

rudder 003.jpgrudder 002.jpg
I recieved the rudder and miscelaneous items in the mail so here is a mock up.May get some things done on this this weekend.Flexshafts should be here this next week so I can probably drill stinger holes after another layer of carbon is layed up.These hulls are really light/thin so I would feel better with extra CF as I've seen my MG's blowovers and although I can try not to let it,inevitably it will.I may even add bulkheads,not sure yet.
Note that the rudder bracket fills the transom extension nicely.I may back that up with aluminum inside as I did on the MG repair.

[tiqueman]

Yes, definitely back it. Even just filling that rudder mount area w resin will make a huge difference.

[srislash]

While I'm out and about today thought I might pick up my servo.I've been thinking of one of the ones I use for my trail trucks.They aren't real fast but torquey.277 oz in.What do you guys run with these big rudders?

[srislash]

The reason I ask is during the last run on the "MG",my rudder needed adjusted on the servo spline.I assume it jumped a gear,so I am thinking a metal gear but not sure how much torque is required?

[Mattwarner]

I've gone for a 9.0kg/cm but mine is a low profile as I am running a push/pull set up and need the clearance. I think a lot use the hitec high torque metal geared one.

[tiqueman]

I usually run the low pro hitecs in my cats. I just recently had one fail but I think it was bc of previous water intrusion. I put a new one in that boat so we will see.

[srislash]

I guess it would be best to run a low profile servo.That way I won't have to put as much bend in the rod, if any.Here's the mounts and my CF.I couldn't find any that was infused with chrome or diamond plate so went with just plain.

[srislash]

I've gone for a 9.0kg/cm but mine is a low profile as I am running a push/pull set up and need the clearance. I think a lot use the hitec high torque metal geared one.

So are you running the Spektrum one that I am looking at?I should be able to at least water resist it with some Conformal coating,just in case.

[srislash]

Got the rudder backing plate in.Its threaded so no nuts to fuss with.Also made larger plates out of thin CF to support the doublers.They will be epoxied all around.
mounts 001.jpg

[srislash]

Well the build got moving along with the 2 weekends we've had here in Wetcouver.I got the motor mounts placed and epoxied,doublers epoxied,stuffing tubes in and stingers mounted.Now this hull is getting stiffened up.A little weighty as well but it should still stay under 10lbs ready to rip.I can't decide wether to place the ESC's in the sponsons by the motors or on the tunnel.It's really tempting to pull the end bells and solder the ESC wires direct,Anybody have an opinion on this?
build 001.jpgbuild 003.jpgbuild 005.jpg
My battery trays and servo mount should arrive this week.Paint soon.

[HYDROJERRY]

i was told its better t have the batts in the sponsons to help even the weight..