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Thread: Your MG that started off as a hull

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    Just make sure everything is cool with battery removal and such and you are good to go.I had to make my own rails as all purchased ones were too low.
    Im still deliberating on batteries actually. All my batteries are 4s packs since all my boats are deep vees with center battery placement - thus I can use my 4s pack in different boats. My first cat is a HK surge crusher and I placed the single 4s pack endwise (crosswise?) just after the stuffing tube exits the hull. I really enjoyed running the surge crusher which is why I got the MG.
    Yeah, im really going againts the boating gods since it will limit or throw off the cog which will probably make the porpoising worse. I really have a feeling that I need to buy 2x2s packs for the MG, but was probably holding it off till I prove myself wrong.....Lol!

    I dry fitted a 42mm prop yesterday and found it a bit loose on the shaft. I got lucky by using a 4mm female bullet connector that has a OD that perfectly fits the prop and an ID that perfectly fits the shaft, so I cut the desired length with a dremel.

    I got a bit worried when I read about larger props hitting the corner edge of the strut assembly with a setup that requires a higher strut position. I dont know how different this in-line rudder that I got from R2hobbies vs the original stock MG strut, but after dry fitting a 42mm prop and adjusting it to its maximum height - it seems likely to accept a 45mm - 48mm prop.
    Well, its not that I need a larger prop in my current or planned setup, but glad that this inexpensive $20 strudder is shaping up to be a good investment afterall.
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  2. #62
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    I actually run TP 5000 mah 4s in each sponson in my MB.It's a little easier with my trays lowered but they fit in stock form.I also squeezed 5s in there stock,3300mah mind you.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I actually run TP 5000 mah 4s in each sponson in my MB.It's a little easier with my trays lowered but they fit in stock form.I also squeezed 5s in there stock,3300mah mind you.
    Isnt it heavy? I find each of my 4s Turnigy Nano-tech 5000mah to be heavy enough - what more if 2 of those in a single boat hehe! Now that gives me something to think about! I do have both cables for series and/or parallel connectors.

    Do you have pics of your setup? I would love to see it!

  4. #64
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    interior 001.jpginterior 002.jpg
    There you go Macdon.They fit no problem.Thats 10,000 mah,900 amps on tap.That 1515 handles it all.I even ran her the other day with no water cooling apparently(or very little).I wasn't running her full on full time but temps stayed way within safe limits.I run a pair of 5000 mah 2s as well to lighten it up and test props.I've been looking at Thunder Power's site and see they have 7700 mah.That would be a good for 2s in each sponson.
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  5. #65
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    Hmm, guess I just figured out another post thing

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    interior 001.jpginterior 002.jpg
    There you go Macdon.They fit no problem.Thats 10,000 mah,900 amps on tap.That 1515 handles it all.I even ran her the other day with no water cooling apparently(or very little).I wasn't running her full on full time but temps stayed way within safe limits.I run a pair of 5000 mah 2s as well to lighten it up and test props.I've been looking at Thunder Power's site and see they have 7700 mah.That would be a good for 2s in each sponson.
    Hmmmm.........if (and I really mean "IF") I do run with 2x4s, would the additional weight be factored in my choice of motor, esc and prop? I presume more torque is needed so a lower kv would be preferred?
    My original plan is using either a 1900kv or 2200kv motor, 120a Turnigy esc and maybe 38mm-42mm prop?

    What kind of speeds are you looking at with using 2x4s (5000mah)? How about if you use 2x2s?
    I really cant tell - but im sure something is compromised because of the additional weight?

    I wont argue with the idea of not buying batteries! Lol!

  7. #67
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    I saw no difference in speed when going from two 2s 5000s to 2 4S 4000s. Actually Id even say the 4S packs in parallel ran it better. Certainly handles better. You will be fine and will probably want the additional weight. a 2200 40 size motor on a 180 will get you mid 50s on a M445 on 4S

  8. #68
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    Well you know,when I get my Hydra Ice back I should compare the amp draw of the differing batt formats.With 4s2p and a x642 I was pullin 150 amps.With a m445 it was 180. My 1515 is 2200kv.Speeds,I think my best so far was 90 kph but that was before all the hull work.I'm having a hard time getting a good day around here anymore,it is winterish now.I've got a 645 to try as well when I get a clear day.Hopefully before May.This is Vancouver.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    interior 001.jpginterior 002.jpg
    There you go Macdon.They fit no problem.Thats 10,000 mah,900 amps on tap.That 1515 handles it all.
    Dang! Is that a Castle Creations 1515? The retail on that is more expensive than my MG project! Lol!

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    I saw no difference in speed when going from two 2s 5000s to 2 4S 4000s. Actually Id even say the 4S packs in parallel ran it better. Certainly handles better. You will be fine and will probably want the additional weight. a 2200 40 size motor on a 180 will get you mid 50s on a M445 on 4S
    You ran 2x4s as well? Ok, it seems my newbie status is starting to show now.......Lol!

    My 2200kv is just a 36 size and only 120a esc, so a 45mm prop might be borderline or smoke my esc. But I do agree, the 180a is nice to have.

  11. #71
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    I run 4S2P evertime I run it. matter of fact ive sold all my 2S packs because I like 4S better. I race it every 2nd and 4th Sunday in LSO and its a tough boat to beat.

    Yeah you wont wanna go 45 then. I did get 44mph on an M445 w/ a t120 and the stock 1500 proboat motor though if that makes you feel any better. But had to trim it out a bit to race, same set up but now running 42-43

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    Well you know,when I get my Hydra Ice back I should compare the amp draw of the differing batt formats.With 4s2p and a x642 I was pullin 150 amps.With a m445 it was 180. My 1515 is 2200kv.Speeds,I think my best so far was 90 kph but that was before all the hull work.I'm having a hard time getting a good day around here anymore,it is winterish now.I've got a 645 to try as well when I get a clear day.Hopefully before May.This is Vancouver.
    Ive been told by my friend to invest in a HK Watt meter for less than $30. Maybe a gps down the road as well.

    Well, you guys are welcome to run your boats here anytime! We only have 2 seasons - rain or shine! Lol!

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    I run 4S2P evertime I run it. matter of fact ive sold all my 2S packs because I like 4S better. I race it every 2nd and 4th Sunday in LSO and its a tough boat to beat.

    Yeah you wont wanna go 45 then. I did get 44mph on an M445 w/ a t120 and the stock 1500 proboat motor though if that makes you feel any better. But had to trim it out a bit to race, same set up but now running 42-43
    Yeah, unfortunately we dont have any rc governing body for races and stuff - we typically just ran races with each other from time to time. My fellow boaters do love the speed thou!

    Im really liking these 4s discussions and dont mind buying 4s batteries down the road as long as I can also use them with most of my other boats.
    I never tried running 2x4s before, so it sounds exciting!

  14. #74
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    Other advantages of 4S just incase you didnt know. Longer run times (if the set up can handle it) and less stress on batts.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    Other advantages of 4S just incase you didnt know. Longer run times (if the set up can handle it) and less stress on batts.
    Oh yeah, thats definitely a given. Its kinda funny thou as my fellow boaters already tease me as having the longest run time when I run my boats - what I thought is just a few minutes is actually 10-15min in reality.....Lol! They were concerned that I would kill my batteries! hahaha
    With 10,000mah in a single boat - I'd definitely would love to see the look in their faces! hehehe

    My fiberglass worker is now free so I gave him the boat to start on sharpening the inner edges of the steps. To those who have reinforced their hulls with either CF or glass - which parts did you reinforce? Did you reinforce the seam all the way around up to the bow tips? I just dont know if my worker's hand could reach that far/deep.
    I also finished making the motor mount rails in fiberglass, so we will mount it when we would be fiberglassing the interior.

  16. #76
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    I went up the bow as far as I could for the seams.Its probably a little sloppy looking up in there but I did what I could.Don't forget the flats of the ride pads.

  17. #77
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    Just use 2 part foam for the bow tips, thats what I did and not haf a problem. What causes the seams to split is the top deck flexing in a heavy roll over, so make sure you put the foam upto it, I brought foam all the upto about 2 inches from my esc which I mounted infront of motor mount, with this my boat has survived 2 or 3 55+ mph flips.
    Hope this helps you, oh and I just used bondo to sharpen and flatten my sponsons no need to fibreglass them.
    Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I went up the bow as far as I could for the seams.Its probably a little sloppy looking up in there but I did what I could.Don't forget the flats of the ride pads.
    We will try our best similar to what you did Shawn - thanks!

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHIEFY_44 View Post
    Just use 2 part foam for the bow tips, thats what I did and not haf a problem. What causes the seams to split is the top deck flexing in a heavy roll over, so make sure you put the foam upto it, I brought foam all the upto about 2 inches from my esc which I mounted infront of motor mount, with this my boat has survived 2 or 3 55+ mph flips.
    Hope this helps you, oh and I just used bondo to sharpen and flatten my sponsons no need to fibreglass them.
    Great tip on the foam - thanks chiefy!
    In my original plan of placing the single 4s battery in an endwise position, I also planned on placing the esc in front of the motor.

  20. #80
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    Macdon,

    With 2 x 4S You'll be the last person on the pond! Coz we're all packed up nd ready to leave by the time you're done! Hahaha!

    Aside from the watt meter that I told about, I think you need to use a Novak 4S Smart Stop just to be sure! I really don't trust 100% those built-in LVC's.

    You enjoy running your boats too much that you forget about the time. Borrow your wife's oven timer! Hahaha! I keep on telling you that you run 10-15 mins. on average! But, you always says 5mins! Hahaha!

    Stephen

  21. #81
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    best thing you can do is time your runs. DO NOT go til lyou hit LVC. Your batteries will thank you. And last a lot longer

    And Ive commented this after Cheify44 before, 2 part foam is great, until you have to repair your hull.


    typically what I do is fill the sponson tips about an inch deep w/ resin. let it kick off and pour more in until the tips are about half full. then cut pieces of foam to fit. you will be suprised how much you can stiffen up the boat w/ custom cut foam blocks and pool noodles. And, most important, if you ever do have a seem issue, you can easily take the foam out to get to the back side for a proper repair.

  22. #82
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    I cant do any installation while the hull is currently being worked on, so my collection of things that could be used in the MG continues.
    While I do already have an extra rx to use for the MG, I scouted the net for cheaper alternatives for our other (and future) boats.
    I am using a Futaba 2PL-2.4G "FHSS" system that comes with a R603GF rx. The rx is $60 a pop and I have 2 of them. I guess I cant blame why folks buy the China Flysky GT3-B that costs $50 a set and about $7 shipped for its rx. I got a flysky and 3 rx for my kids to use, but for my own boats I wanna stick with Futaba.

    I didnt have much luck finding a Futaba rx compatibility chart so I had to email Futaba US. I learned that as long as the rx is also a FHSS system similar to my 2PL, then I could use it.
    Scanning ebay, I found cheaper alternatives for my R603GF (3ch) which was priced at $60.

    R2104GF (4ch) - $50
    R2004GF (4ch) - $50
    R203GF (3ch) - $40
    R2006GF (6ch) - $45

    My stock R603GF (3ch) is still priced at $60 and I really cant understand why other rx with more ch seems cheaper.....Lol!
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  23. #83
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    What motor are you going to use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tagasagwan View Post
    Macdon,

    With 2 x 4S You'll be the last person on the pond! Coz we're all packed up nd ready to leave by the time you're done! Hahaha!

    Aside from the watt meter that I told about, I think you need to use a Novak 4S Smart Stop just to be sure! I really don't trust 100% those built-in LVC's.

    You enjoy running your boats too much that you forget about the time. Borrow your wife's oven timer! Hahaha! I keep on telling you that you run 10-15 mins. on average! But, you always says 5mins! Hahaha!

    Stephen
    Honestly, I bought a kitchen timer ............but its always inside my tackle box hahahahaha! Ok, I will buy a lanyard so I could place it around my neck ............but I bet I'll ignore it! hahahahaha
    Will give you a ring later as usual bro!

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    best thing you can do is time your runs. DO NOT go til lyou hit LVC. Your batteries will thank you. And last a lot longer

    And Ive commented this after Cheify44 before, 2 part foam is great, until you have to repair your hull.


    typically what I do is fill the sponson tips about an inch deep w/ resin. let it kick off and pour more in until the tips are about half full. then cut pieces of foam to fit. you will be suprised how much you can stiffen up the boat w/ custom cut foam blocks and pool noodles. And, most important, if you ever do have a seem issue, you can easily take the foam out to get to the back side for a proper repair.
    Each tip is about 4" deep - wont half filling it with resin add considerably to the weight?
    However, I think I could see your point - I read that MG really lifts its bow while on plain - could this half filling the tips with resin lessen the lift (to lessen the chance of blow overs) and at the same time being a bit bullet proof?

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by tagasagwan View Post
    What motor are you going to use?
    Thats still up in the air, my friend! Like I posted earlier, I have the ff:

    3660 2200kv
    3674 1900kv (which I got from you hahaha)
    3674 2200kv

    But I naturally wouldnt mind you giving me a Castle motor this coming xmas! hahahahaha!

  27. #87
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    So maybe 2/3... Enough to help it structurally but not add tons of weight, which yes, will help keep the nose down. Mine and one I just rebuilt have a few oz in each one. Which maybe it did end up being half? I also mix a little bit of filler (micro ballons) in with it, still easily pourable, but not straight epoxy which is fragile on its own.

  28. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by macdon View Post
    But I naturally wouldnt mind you giving me a Castle motor this coming xmas! hahahahaha!
    Ill send you the box for one if it will help?

  29. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    Ill send you the box for one if it will help?
    Uhh, you are a mean man Scott hahahahahaha!

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