Your MG that started off as a hull

[srislash]

Build a boat stand out of 1" pipe.It's irrigation pipe around here.That way you can put foam on the rails and the rails will sit inside the tunnel(my project for the day).That way the ride pads won't stick to the stock foam on the stock stand(irritating).I wouldn't bother with the tupperware lid IMO.You could just tape the hatch(highly recommended).That way you won't lose it.Oh yeah,don'tput off gluing foam inside the hatch.Do it now!Fill the teardrop and you can carve out if neccesary later.TRUST ME ON THIS ONE!!! Tiqueman can build you another but it'll take awhile to reach you and $$.

[srislash]

And the ride pads also seem to have a concave area.Take a good ruler or straight edge and put it on the flats and you'll see what I mean.I used automotive glazing putty on them,seems to work great,also works for squaring edges.It bonds really well and sands good to.It will take a couple of layers and dries fairly quick.I'll try to post those pics soon but think I'm running it today or tomorrow.

[macdon]

Build a boat stand out of 1" pipe.It's irrigation pipe around here.That way you can put foam on the rails and the rails will sit inside the tunnel(my project for the day).That way the ride pads won't stick to the stock foam on the stock stand(irritating).I wouldn't bother with the tupperware lid IMO.You could just tape the hatch(highly recommended).That way you won't lose it.Oh yeah,don'tput off gluing foam inside the hatch.Do it now!Fill the teardrop and you can carve out if neccesary later.TRUST ME ON THIS ONE!!! Tiqueman can build you another but it'll take awhile to reach you and $$.

Oh cool, then that'll save me about $20 for both parts and a 2-week wait on their arrival.
Yup, we're very familiar with pvc plastic pipes. If you look closely at my avatar, the custom blue & silver painted boat is resting on a DIY 1.5" pvc pipe that we just painted primer grey (as the pvc is colored blue and all my fellow boaters have pvc blue stands.....LOL!)

Yeah, we are not used to inner lids - the typical china made boats that we have (hull, aRTR or RTR) over here have just a canopy/hatch - so we always tape our hatches down with clear tape or electrical tape. My favorite is clear "hockey tape", but we import it so its a bit pricey. We also adhere styrofoam or some sort of flotation in our hatches/canopy and our hulls have pool noodles cut to fit.

As for the MG, I was also surprised to find a shaped styrofoam on the teardrop section of the hatch when I took the pics earlier. You can actually see the white styrofoam on that pic I posted showing the interior wooden partitions. I thought all proboat MGs have this. No?
Well, if that is not standard - then this MG hull & canopy set continues to amaze me :)

[srislash]

Yup,hockey tape.Can't be that much demand for it down there.Foam in the lid eh,bas*^#@'s.That's how I lost mine,procrastination.Then used scotch tape.Doesn't hold in a 60+mph blowover.Bye GPS.Sounds like everything is well in hand for ya.Oh does it have the blind nuts in the transom,I would beef this area up a bit and dont forget breakaway screws.I can't believe the things I simply put off.Not next build,which has begun.

[macdon]

Yup,hockey tape.Can't be that much demand for it down there.Foam in the lid eh,bas*^#@'s.That's how I lost mine,procrastination.Then used scotch tape.Doesn't hold in a 60+mph blowover.Bye GPS.Sounds like everything is well in hand for ya.Oh does it have the blind nuts in the transom,I would beef this area up a bit and dont forget breakaway screws.I can't believe the things I simply put off.Not next build,which has begun.

Just to confirm thru pics the ff details that came with my "hull & canopy" MG:

pic1: Shaped Styrofoam underneath the canopy
pic2: Block styrofoam in front of hull
pic3: Blind nuts in transom

pic4 & 5: I went ahead in making a pvc pipe boat stand, painted it primer grey and covered the top with insulation foam from an aircon supply store.

[macdon]

The following 3 pics shows the $20 R2Hobbies in-line strut & rudder which fits perfectly in the transom mounting holes of the MG. Also seen in the pics is the gap between the stock MG stuffing tube and the R2hobbies strut.

[tagasagwan]

Macdon,

Nice work on the hull. I guess I have to step up on my current project too. Hehehe! Maybe I can drop by your house one of these days. When my sched permits. Can I touch your Geico? Hahaha!

BTW, will the group run at the strike pond or ETON pond tomorrow?

Stephen

[macdon]

Macdon,

Nice work on the hull. I guess I have to step up on my current project too. Hehehe! Maybe I can drop by your house one of these days. When my sched permits. Can I touch your Geico? Hahaha!

BTW, will the group run at the strike pond or ETON pond tomorrow?

Stephen

Sure bro - stop by any time!
I think we would be running in Strike pond tom.

[srislash]

extension 004.jpgextension 007.jpgextension 008.jpg
Hey Macdon,Here are the pics of my little extension piece.I see your gonna need one from your pics,just don't try to run a stock MG flex as it will be too short.I see your bit of foam,this is a good thing.

[macdon]

extension 004.jpgextension 007.jpgextension 008.jpg
Hey Macdon,Here are the pics of my little extension piece.I see your gonna need one from your pics,just don't try to run a stock MG flex as it will be too short.I see your bit of foam,this is a good thing.

Thanks for posting your pics srislash. I am thinking of adding a longer teflon tube as an extension or replace the one that came with the 'hull & canopy' entirely to reach the strut. Then extending the stuffing tube like you've done in yours. Then probably wrap the whole thing with shrink tube.

I was also looking at the wooden interior tray and whether to remove it or not? I did see that the motor mount mounting holes have metal inserts which is a good thing but if I plan to use them then I still need to purchase the stock blue motor mount or attempt to make one from an angle bar.

I do have a spare fiberglass and aluminum motor mount similar to yours & Tiqueman's which I can use if I decide to pry off the wooden partitions. How fragile is the under hull of the MG?
If its fragile, do you suggest a layer of chopped or matt fiberglass from bow to transom? .........and while Im at it, add a layer to the seams as well?

[srislash]

I didn't find it to be too fragile but handle with care anyways.I chopped only part of mine out back to the bulkhead where the stuffing tube comes out so that I could mount the motor close to the tube.I think tiqueman said something about heating it to help release the glue.But I didn't find it too bad as I also trimmed the battery trays to lower them.I did put some cloth down for the mount so as to disperse the load and bond it better.
hull fix 003.jpghull fix 002.jpg
I would definately do the seam.I got a good deal on my RTR hull because it had a 1.5" hairline crack on the seam but once I wiped it out it grew.This is the area most have problems.

[macdon]

I didn't find it to be too fragile but handle with care anyways.I chopped only part of mine out back to the bulkhead where the stuffing tube comes out so that I could mount the motor close to the tube.I think tiqueman said something about heating it to help release the glue.But I didn't find it too bad as I also trimmed the battery trays to lower them.I did put some cloth down for the mount so as to disperse the load and bond it better.
hull fix 003.jpghull fix 002.jpg
I would definately do the seam.I got a good deal on my RTR hull because it had a 1.5" hairline crack on the seam but once I wiped it out it grew.This is the area most have problems.

Roger that! Will attempt to remove the wooden partitions and will glass for support.

One thing I noticed thou - I tried inserting my 4mm flex shaft inside the MG's stuffing/teflon tube and found it to be tight. Would it be okay to use probably 2"-3" of teflon tube on just the 2 ends of the stuffing tube? One near the motor and another one to enter the strut?

[srislash]

Well I know some of the guys that have upgraded to .187 cable scrap the teflon alltogether.You have 4mm flex not .150? I changed sizes on my tubes I ordered for my CF Shocker and hope it doesn't give me grief(3/16 flex & 7mm tube).

[macdon]

Well I know some of the guys that have upgraded to .187 cable scrap the teflon alltogether.You have 4mm flex not .150? I changed sizes on my tubes I ordered for my CF Shocker and hope it doesn't give me grief(3/16 flex & 7mm tube).

Yeah, its 4mm (.157?). I tried inserting it in the stock teflon tube of the MG and could only force a few inches in. Naturally, the teflon tube that came with my 4mm flex will not fit inside the MG's stuffing tube.
I did get to read some threads wherein teflon is not used due to binding or possible melting and ruining the flex shaft, then there are those who use teflon only on both ends or the portion of the stuffing tube that has a bent.
Its definitely more "free-wheeling" without the teflon tube, but would scrapping it entirely make more chances of water entering the hull thru the stuffing tube?

[srislash]

I would be more concerned with wearing the flex or the tube,not sure which would go first.I snapped mine on my old mono(circa 1989)last week.Right in the middle.I'm guessing due to corrosion.Looked good to me but apparently not.Geez,12-15 years away from the hobby and I sure miss some stuff.LOL

[CHIEFY_44]

i don't use teflon in my mg i just upgraded the flex and removed the teflon works great never had a problem

[macdon]

I would be more concerned with wearing the flex or the tube,not sure which would go first.I snapped mine on my old mono(circa 1989)last week.Right in the middle.I'm guessing due to corrosion.Looked good to me but apparently not.Geez,12-15 years away from the hobby and I sure miss some stuff.LOL

I havent snapped a flex yet - well, since Im currently new to this hobby (6mos.), I guess its bound to happen sooner or later. Lol!
Without the teflon tube, the flex shaft will freely move all over the stuffing tube - cant really say if this is good for the shaft thou. However, the ends of the stuffing tube may need a bit of teflon as the stuffing tube edges may burr into the shaft in time.

[macdon]

i don't use teflon in my mg i just upgraded the flex and removed the teflon works great never had a problem

Thanks for sharing Chiefy - I may go that route as well or add a bit of teflon lengths on both ends of the stuffing tube. No water getting in thru the stuffing tube in your MG?

I really never thought that the 'hull & canopy' only MG would have a stuffing tube installed, but since its there - dont wanna really tear if off the hull.

[CHIEFY_44]

I use the standard stuffing tube no teflon amd a 187 flex, you can add a small bit of fuel tube over the stuffing tube this will stop the water coming in, you could also use extra grease on flex will do same job.
I get a very small amount of water in mine but nothing to worry about.

[macdon]

I use the standard stuffing tube no teflon amd a 187 flex, you can add a small bit of fuel tube over the stuffing tube this will stop the water coming in, you could also use extra grease on flex will do same job.
I get a very small amount of water in mine but nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the suggestion chiefy - will look into that fuel tube idea.

[macdon]

Okay, I finally got the wooden partitions out.

To those who took out theirs, did you get to remove it intact? Well, mine didnt go quietly.....Lol! With the aid of a hair dryer, long nose pliers, dremel and a lot of elbow grease hahaha! No damage on both inside & outside the hull.
Jeesh, doing this on a bnew hull - I must be crazy!
Its a tad lighter now thou haha!

BTW - you guys ever thought of moving the motor a bit forward to add more weight to the front?
I could see 2 problems - either the angle of the stuffing tube wont allow it as the motor will go high and will limit the motor sizes as it will hit the hatch.

[srislash]

I moved mine back ever so slightly.I was trying to grab more stock flex cable and its easier to move batteries around than a motor mount that is too far forward.Go ahead ask me how I know.The little mono can hook in real bad now and theres nothing I can do about it.That mount is structural.Weight too far forward will make the MG trip in turns.Its gentle but still upside down.

[macdon]

I moved mine back ever so slightly.I was trying to grab more stock flex cable and its easier to move batteries around than a motor mount that is too far forward.Go ahead ask me how I know.The little mono can hook in real bad now and theres nothing I can do about it.That mount is structural.Weight too far forward will make the MG trip in turns.Its gentle but still upside down.

Good point!

Just recently I was reading some owners moving things forward a bit as their MG's bow seems to lift up to the point that it might blow over. But as you said, batteries would be easier to move than motors.

Earlier, I was buying stainless screws for various boat projects and since I was in the neighborhood of a machine shop, I had them made some brass standoffs. I also tried a short length of stuffing tube that fits the inside of the strut.
I hated the pile of wood mess when I removed the wooden partitions from the MG - so I assembled them again and might be useful in the future.

[srislash]

Those look good.How clean is the water you run in?By clean I mean sticks and stuff.I am just paranoid now but if you hit anything without breakaway screws it could be disasterous.Did you reinforce the transom standout at all

[tiqueman]

the rudder itself has a break away point. Hes good

[macdon]

Those look good.How clean is the water you run in?By clean I mean sticks and stuff.I am just paranoid now but if you hit anything without breakaway screws it could be disasterous.Did you reinforce the transom standout at all

I guess its like most ponds - there are times when there's debris and times that seem clear. We cant really tell whats down there.......lol! I play with my kids and waking them up early on a sunday is a whole lot of chore in itself - so we typically arrive late always. My fellow boaters have been there since 1-2 hours earlier so im hoping that they've cleared most debris by the time we arrive - Lol! Aside from electrics, they have large gas boats so im naturally hoping the waves they produce clears most away haha!
Just 2 weeks ago, a large patch of waterlilies was slowly crossing the pond - its like a moving island. A lot of the members just ran circles around it till it passed. There was one time that when I got my boat, I noticed that my rudder was swept back (it has that safety feature) along with my right turn fin. Moments later a dead Plecostomus (sucker fish?) was seen floating - cant really tell who among us hit it or if it died of natural causes. I guess thats part of our hobby.

I havent still decided on my current hardware - maybe run in-line, offset or even get a new bracket and bolt the rudder straight to the transom. But since I was in the machine shop yesterday - I had them make the standoffs so that if I decide on using it - I would have them ready.
My fiberglass workers are still busy with other projects - so once they have time I would be electing to reinforce the hull, seams and transom with some fiberglass. So for now, Im just collecting bits & pieces that I may be using for the MG.

Possible Motors:
While rummaging thru my parts bin, I found the ff motors that could be used in MG:
Left = Keda 3674 1900kv
Middle = Keda 3660 2200kv
right = Turnigy 3674 2200kv

I'll be checking on motor mounts next - I dunno if I can use the mount that is on my turnigy (right most in the picture) as the angle of the stuffing tube seems high. Unless of course if I cut the stuffing tube a bit. Did you guys cut a portion of the stuffing tube to lower its angle?

[JackBlack26]

Make your own rails for the 2 piece motor mount out of aluminum flat stock since it's made for a V hull.





I made this mount for my Geico for pretty much a trip to the local metal mart, but the aluminum for the side rails I got at the LHS. It was made to fit an 1800kv 1512. Copied the rails just made them taller.


then made this one for my outrunner.

[macdon]

Make your own rails for the 2 piece motor mount out of aluminum flat stock since it's made for a V hull.

I made this mount for my Geico for pretty much a trip to the local metal mart, but the aluminum for the side rails I got at the LHS. It was made to fit an 1800kv 1512. Copied the rails just made them taller.


then made this one for my outrunner.

Thanks for posting your mount pics, Jackblack!
That triangular mount on your 2nd pic looks very pointed - I hope you dont cut yourself.

I could use the sv27 mount as seen in the middle motor in my pic above - and probably make a triangular mount/rail out of cardboard to act as a pattern for either a metal or fiberglass rail.
Yup, Im fearing that the rails would be taller than usual.

[macdon]

Here's a cardboard mock-up of the rail for the motor mount. I could use it as a pattern to make into fiberglass or metal.

[srislash]

Just make sure everything is cool with battery removal and such and you are good to go.I had to make my own rails as all purchased ones were too low.