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Thread: Break away rudder options anyone?

  1. #1
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    Default Break away rudder options anyone?

    Hey all,
    I apologize in advance if this is covered somewhere on the forum already. I did search
    Can anyone give some simple suggestions for a break away option for the Mystic's offset rudder? I don't want to do a bunch of modification (unless nessecary), just something simple. I'm thinking that it will involve some plastic bolts of some sort but I'm not sure how I should go about it. Is it just a matter of replacing the transom screws with plastic ones?
    We boat behind my home in a pond that I know has turtles. I can't believe my son and I have not hit one yet!
    As our season is winding down with the SNOW coming soon, I figured this would be a good winter project to tinker with. I'll welcome any input / direction from you gents. If it would not be to much to ask I would REALLY appreciate pictures of what you have done to your boats for rudder break away. I'm a visual learner!
    Thank you and have a good day (and awesome boating weekend)!
    They call me DOUBLE D

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derrick Davis View Post
    Hey all,
    I apologize in advance if this is covered somewhere on the forum already. I did search
    Can anyone give some simple suggestions for a break away option for the Mystic's offset rudder?



    I've been thinking about this since the day I bought my Mystic. I have had one "fish strike" where I bent my rudder bracket a bit but did no damage to the transom. I figure it's only a matter of time until my luck runs out!

    I haven't really sat down and brainstormed the project yet, but winter is coming (my lawn is white from yesterday's snow; winter storm watch for tonight) and I'll be in the shop, puttering, soon.

    Take it easy,
    desmobob

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insaniac View Post
    It doesn't look like there is an easy way to incorporate a "swing-away" 2-bolt rudder with this mounting system...
    Attachment 62919
    My first thought was to simply slice the rear extension of the mount in half, vertically, then add an aluminum scab to put it back together, using a nylon bolt in the bottom position. Sounds simple, light and quick.

    Here's a highly-detailed technical drawing, practically ready to load into CNC production equipment!

    rudder mod.JPG

    Well... you get the idea, anyway. I'd have to elongate the top rear bolt hole to allow the rudder to pivot upward.


    Take it easy,
    desmobob
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by desmobob; 10-28-2011 at 12:48 PM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for piping in guys. I'm sitting in my home office staring at my boat.... Must be FRIDAY.
    desmobob- Your idea sounds interesting. I'm not familar with a scab. Would this require additional holes in the transom?
    Thanks.
    They call me DOUBLE D

  5. #5
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    desmobob - Sorry, I just looked at your post again and saw the drawing. I missed this the first time I read it. A scab is a small, thin metal plate of some sort to strengthen the transom area, correct? That makes sense to me...
    They call me DOUBLE D

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derrick Davis View Post
    desmobob - Sorry, I just looked at your post again and saw the drawing. I missed this the first time I read it. A scab is a small, thin metal plate of some sort to strengthen the transom area, correct? That makes sense to me...
    Sorry my drawing isn't clear... the aluminum scab (backing plate, whatever you'd call it) is on the part of the rudder bracket that extends rearwards from the boat, holding the bracket together after a vertical cut has been made through the bracket.

    I edited my drawing in a desperate attempt to improve it. And for some reason, it's now attached twice... the "improved" version is the top one in the text. The "attached thumbnails" is the old version.

    Take it easy,
    desmobob
    Last edited by desmobob; 10-28-2011 at 12:51 PM.

  7. #7
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    I got a chance to rig up my break-away rudder idea. It seems to work well on the bench, but I won't get a chance to try it on the water until next weekend.

    I cut the rudder bracket, then joined it back together with a square piece of hard aluminum. The lower aft screw is nylon and the top aft part of the bracket has been rounded/relieved to allow the aft part of the bracket to pivot up in the case of a rudder strike. I'll replace the plain steel screws with stainless ones when I get some. It's not real pretty, but I hope it's effective.

    break-away rudder.jpg

    Take it easy,
    desmobob

  8. #8
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    Thanks for putting the picture up desmobob. It looks like it would work....have you had a chance to test it yet?
    They call me DOUBLE D

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derrick Davis View Post
    Thanks for putting the picture up desmobob. It looks like it would work....have you had a chance to test it yet?
    You're welcome!

    It works fine for normal running, but I haven't put it to the real test yet by hitting something (and I hope I never do!). It seems to be set up in a similar way to most of the factory-made break-away rudders, so I'm hoping it will work fine and I can't see why it wouldn't. Even with the top rear screw tightened down really snug, the rudder still pivots up easily. So if I do hit something, the Nylon screw should shear and save my bracket and/or transom.

    I know the shear screw holds up for normal running because when I ran it last, I hit a wad of floating leaves big enough to prevent me from steering the boat well; I actually thought I had sheared the Nylon screw and the rudder might have only been partially in the water, but that wasn't the case.

    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Take it easy,
    desmobob

  10. #10
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    I'd look into the impulse 31 bracket and rudder it looks to me like with a small amount of fabrication it would work.......and the factory anodizing would still match! WOOHOO

  11. #11
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    This is my mod:

    IMAG0012.jpg

  12. #12
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    I am going to machine a new bracket at work that will bolt to the transom in line with the rudder , the way the bracket is now even after you mod it there is no support inline with the rudder and it will likely do damage to the boat or hardware long before you break the nylon screw.
    Try pulling on the rudder and you will see just how much it flexes.
    I am going to use the original blade and part of the original bracket to support the new one .
    Hope this makes sense lol.

    Tim K

  13. #13
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    Already test this rudder mod. Nylon screw broke, turtle had a back ache. Didn't have a camera with me.

  14. #14
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    BBQ, Your mod looks good.

    Tim K, I will be interested to see what you come up with also. desmobob had a good mod for the rudder too.

    I don't have the tools to craft a mod and my skills are questionable.
    I'm hoping I can simply pick up a few pieces at the hardware store once I decide which idea to borrow from one of you Gentlemen.
    They call me DOUBLE D

  15. #15
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    Unfortunately I tested the stock setup last week. Good news is the transom took no damage. Bad news is the rudder bracket bent. Back to good news, it wasn't too tough to straighten it out. Other than the leading edge of the rudder being a bit banged up you can't even tell it happened now. That said, I'd really like to figure out a good way to put a conventional breakaway rudder on her.

  16. #16
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    Here is a couple pics of how I did it , it could easily be done with a SpeedMaster rudder or cheap knock off.
    I glued a piece of marine ply inside the hull for strength and bolted the new and old bracket together as well.
    That part seemed like over kill , but I'm not to sure how strong the transom is and bolting the two together removed a lot of stress on the new bracket and transom.

    Tim K
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