The only mods I am doing is the Leopard 28 series inrunner and Turnigy ESC, I won't have the modded boat on the water for a couple of months yet, have never run the boat in stock form so can't help with stock performance.
The only mods I am doing is the Leopard 28 series inrunner and Turnigy ESC, I won't have the modded boat on the water for a couple of months yet, have never run the boat in stock form so can't help with stock performance.
so no gps on the stock setup yet..
maybe 30mph a good guess?
has anyone tried 4s on the stock motor with a different esc?
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
I'm going to STRONGLY have to disagree with that whole statement and feel that reducing the prop size and increasing the voltage is a excellent point and may indeed drop the amp draw.
Given the specs of this hull, if I owned it I would without a doubt run a ammo 3650 2300kv and a y537/3 and a seaking 60, 90 or 120...jmho. Going up in prop size doesn't alway yield the best results and can introduce handing issues and prop walk issues.
Just reducing the prop diameter and running the same voltage you would see a lose in speed, but let's say you run 3s and lower the diameter but increase the pitch like a x640 or prather s215, it should actually run faster then a x442! For your particular motor increasing the voltage and lowering the prop size isn't gonna help much because your unloaded rpms would be rather high on 4s. Just relying on increase prop size can get you in a lot of trouble for gaining speed though, you have experience with 1 hull and you didn't change anything else other then the diameter.
I would personally line/re-inforce the bottom and motor mount area regardless... that's just me, I don't trust brushless + plastic...
3650 size motor, absolutely! On 3s I could easily get higher 30s (mph) with a 42mm prop and on 4s easily upper 40s maybe even into the 50 with with a y537/3 or a prather 215 all while being around 50 or so amps!
I never said you or anyone was a moron.. Everyone just can learn something knew regardless of how long you've been doing this hobby. I'm not saying I know everything, and no I don't have this cat, but I've owned more cats then I can count even in this size. Just because 1 specific tip doesn't work for your 1 practicuar application doesn't yield the tip useless. Not sure if your getting pissed at me or everything I don't know, but I can easily pull outta this thread and leave ya be.. Like I said I don't know everything, but this ain't my first rodeo!
Did you tape the hull yet or still against it? If you haven't taped it AQ could give you 50 new hulls, it's still gonna leak...
Good tip with plastic hulls, their is typically a attachment seem between the top and bottom portion of the hulls, run rtv around that seem.
PS
Don't underestimate the 28 size motors, it would be wise to reinforce that hull if you plan on pushing it faster then stock! 23" mono with a Tacon 2860 2550kv and a y537/3.
Last edited by Diesel6401; 04-24-2012 at 08:41 PM.
I knew it was a mistake when I let go of the chance to buy the DF MINI SNIPER. Great video! The stock motor was an out-runner , same as the one in DF Vortex 16, right? Did you have to change motor mount when you changed to the Tacon?
Sorry guys, don't mean to change the topic here.
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Thanks.
I traded for the hull so it was used when I got it, no clue on what's stock and what's not. I do know for sure the servo was stock and was weak. Upgraded that to a exi mg servo from hobbypartz. I was running 4s. The video was taken after about 3 min of running. I'm sure it was over 50mph before I stuck the gps in it. I've since traded that hull to my buddy for a dx6i. Awesome running little mono though. I like that hull better then the h&m no step 1 I had which is similar size, running with a ul1 motor and a x440. Pretty sure ose sells a bare hull of this little guy. Sorry to continue off track also lol...
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You crack me up...
Let's see, the person who accuses someone of having an inferiority complex, yet has to list all his "credentials" to the world to make himself feel important...hmmm...who is the one with the actual inferiority complex?
I'm sure Miscosoft teaches all the fundamentals of FE so let us all bow to your superiority.
If you would step away from your worn out keyboard and for a minute, the reason some members treat you as a moron (your words, not mine)
is that many of your posts actually make you appear as such.
You come off sounding like a self proclaimed expert and then degrade those who have "been there and done that" already numerous times. Your comments to Diesel are a classic example (he has helped many on the forums based on his own experiences). You seem to take offence that someone disagrees with you. Good luck in life with that attitude. Diesel respectfully disagreed with you on a topic and off you go on a rant where you basically degraded him.
I will give you credit though, your last response to me was less than 1000 words. That couldn't have been easy.
Grand River Marine Modellers
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Billy...TAPE THE HATCH
Perhaps the larger lettering will help you understand as you think it will help others....water will get in even if you are only checking temps every few minutes.
Don't blame the design for you not following one of FE's fundamental requirements. Tape the hatch.
Grand River Marine Modellers
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Now besides knowing that it was a BIG MISTAKE to MISS the DF Mini Sniper, it is a BIGGER mistake to get involved in this thread, I even apologized for changing the topic momentarily, knowing perhaps what will come to me as a result. I also apologize to Diesel for getting him into trouble for answering my question.
Modrerator: please do not shut down this thread, after a day's hard work, nothing is more refreshing than free entertainment like this! I wasn't even as excited when my MG GPS'ed at 53mph.
It is possible that water is getting in to a sponson from the motor compartment (unlikley but possible), IMHO the only way to elimimate that possible cause would be to run the boat with the hatch taped up and see what happens, this will at least close this debate on taping or not taping being the culprit in this particular case, I hope you still have the boat so you can try this out.
Out of the box the seam between the two plastic hull halves on my WC did looked suspect to me, (hit and miss with the sealant) as Diesel suggested I re-sealed this seam and I also sealed every hole/thread that the factory had put in the hull.
I'm trying to moderate here and give what I think may be some useful information on this particular hull, seems to me that not many people have this boat yet and information may be a bit scarce on this model hands on.
I accept that clearly there are many experts on this forum who know far more than me and others on FE boats, but it seems to me that the interchange between experts and non-experts falls down quite often mainly due I think because experts don't read the non-experts posts in detail and respond with general FE doctrine that is not always relevant for a particular issue, some non-experts respond in a frustrating aggressive manner which escalates the thread in to a personal slanging match.
Please, please can experts and non-experts try to work together for the good of the forum, non-experts accept that the experts know more than us (that's the way it is) and over time with more experience we will become experts, and can experts perhaps have the kids gloves on when dealing with non-experts.
I wanted to point out regarding the seams a while back but as I mentioned earlier I didn't want to get in the way. I got excited about the DF Mini Sniper, couldn't help myself. Apologies again, and with sincerity. On the bright side I am in the Bozo Brigade...well, one step higher than "Senior Member" I guess. I am also very much a non-expert, here to learn...
I wanted to say that on my Proboat Mini-V and Mini-cat (similat plastic hull) the two halves did have some seperation, I put CA around it and problem gone. I am sure this was not over looked. Love to hear from you when you are done with your boat regarding performance, etc.
Thinking about maybe getting one of these, need to know if a 8000 mah pack will fit?
I stopped by and looked and answered my own question, a small pack is need, not sure if any 1/10 3s pack will fit, needs almost a mini pack, so there goes my idea.
just did not look like a lot of room in there.
Bruce, Looks good! I really hope everything is sorted out on this one, let us know how she runs! On a different note, I am sure you saw the new AQ Revolt 30, the motor mount reminds me of your Rio EP modified motor mount! I actually read your whole post with great interest before you deleted it, anyway, I ordered the same mount but it looks easier on your picture, lol, I don't know when I will have time to mod it and to remove the plastic hump in the hull.
p.s. I know I am talking something other than your original topic, it is a bad habit of mine, apologize before hand!
Very glad that the WC is water tight, hopefully with the cooling up grade/mod the temp on the motor would go down.
Regarding the Rio EP: I really like your idea with the Cen Racing mount ( hope I am correct on this one) : ordered mine but after it arrived I realized unless you use the stock battery mount position , it is too wide for me to place two batteries on both sides of the motor. I am using a Proboat FasTech motor, which is only 1500KV and 4s. These are things I don't have to buy for the mod. I am using the stock motor mount ring to "collar" the front of the motor and moved the cooling jacket as far back as possible---really Micky Mouse kind of mod., but will work for me now, infact I want to test the setup later today. Because the motor is pushed back, I had to use another flex cable which is longer. I found an old/damaged one for a Venom P1 which I shortened to fit the Rio.
I had a accident (user error) with my wildcat. The hull is badly damaged but motor and electronics are fine. I don't believe a replacement bare hull can be purchased. Any suggestions on a different hull that I could utilize the existing hardware or do I have a pile of useless parts?
Does anybody know the largest 3cell pack that you could put in this boat without mods? as im looking at this one: http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...d=TGHC33003C30
Hey Guys,
Picked up one of these boats because it was 150 bucks shipped off ebay, which seemed like a great deal for the components. Currently running these batteries: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=16693. Which fit perfectly in the boat. Any longer and you'd be smashing the wires against the hull.
To be honest my first impressions of the boat were not that great. Construction seems cheap, not sure why theres plastic pieces glued to the steps in the hull. Motor mount is what it is....
After running it, i will stay its very stable, turns on a dime, and is pretty quick for first time boaters. When you use good tape very little water gets in, and my running temperatures arent crazy, motor was very hot to touch, forget exact temps. Esc was around 150 degrees F. Battery was around 115 degrees F.
A little background about me, ive always been into cars and trucks, and messed around with the micro 3D helis, this is my first brushless boat. I worked in a hobbyshop for 8 years part time, throughout highschool/college.
Anyways im already bored with it and would like to get some more top end out of the boat. Also is there anyway to fix how much the boat pulls to the side on power?
I would like to keep running the batteries that I have, AKA dont want a 4s setup. What would be the best solution to more speed? More KV, smaller prop? New esc as well? Definitely could benefit from a new motor mount. I know my runtimes will suffer, thats not a big deal.
If this boat is going 25-30mph stock.....how can I bump that to 35-40?
I have a wildcat ep was not fast enough. I run it on my pond. I put it on 4s the temps went to 186 then I put an rc car cooling fan right behind the motor fabricated mount and shroud out of balsa weighs very little ultra high speed for $11 in tower catalog. The temps went from 186 to 122 the speed went from 22 to 37mph. I could not notice any loss in run time
I forgot to mention I have a swordfish 120 esc made a new batt tray the battery was to tall new esc mount and 1.5 oz lead behind radio box
Wow thats a huge improvement! Damn, guess these 3s lipos will have to go. How much was that esc?
I bought that from offshore electrics 3yrs ago cant recall idont think you need 120amp I would get a 90 amp and save money and wieght
like you said there is a problem the boat pulls hard right. I am going to try it today, last night I detounged the prop and lowered the prop 3/32in I hope it helps not sure? I like to experiment stock props are cheep.
To lower prop I had to slot the strut bracket did not like that. I used to run gas boats, this is new to me. I have 3yrs ago but a short period.
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