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Thread: Overtemping problems

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    HI
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    7

    Default Overtemping problems

    I have an absolute stock Proboat Impulse 31 except for an Octura X445 prop. I am running 2 2S5000 batteries as recommended by the manufacturer. Problem is, when I run for no more than 1 minute at moderate speeds, the ESC appears to be overtemping and shutting off the motor. I can see that water is flowing through the cooling system (lake water temperature 67F). The motor will run again after a couple of minutes of sitting after the ESC cools down. During the time that the ESC shuts down the motor, the rudder stops working too. Battery voltage is good, almost completely full (8.4V ea.)

    Anybody have any ideas what is causing this?? Do I have a defective ESC??

    Thanks for the replies....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    FL
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    949

    Default

    Run at WOT and check temps, running a half throttle will pull more amps and will heat things up faster JMO.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    wi
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    1,461

    Default

    On mine they had the motor cooling first then the esc, switch them around and see what happens.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    HI
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies. My boat has the cooling water also going to the engine first. I like your idea of switching this so the ESC gets cooled first, I'll try that. Cheers !

  5. #5
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    Nov 2009
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    FL
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    I agree, mine was the same way.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    189

    Default

    I would also switch all connectors to 5.5mm bullets. Mine was running pretty hot on the exact same setup(just a prop swap) but after I switched out ALL connectors for 5.5's .....No problems at all!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
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    4,289

    Default


    You should double check your esc nipples for silicone in them and the rudder for metal chips inside it.
    My new esc was blocked with some and I cleaned them out.
    Good thing I check for good flow and blow in the nipples.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    HI
    Posts
    7

    Default I found the problem

    After much testing and probing and profanity I finally found the problem. There is an electrical short in the ground wire on the ESC right where the black wire enters the ESC. This wire is on the bottom of the ESC between the bottom hull and the ESC. It looks like the bouncing of the boat might be a strain on this point. I 'd say that it is probably just "wear & tear" from the bouncing while the boat skips across the water but this boat has been in the water no more than 15 minutes total.

    So, I think the maker of this boat monitors this forum, does anyone know how I can get some customer support????? I'd like to get another ESC.

    Thanks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    HI
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekubiaks View Post
    After much testing and probing and profanity I finally found the problem. There is an electrical short in the ground wire on the ESC right where the black wire enters the ESC. This wire is on the bottom of the ESC between the bottom hull and the ESC. It looks like the bouncing of the boat might be a strain on this point. I 'd say that it is probably just "wear & tear" from the bouncing while the boat skips across the water but this boat has been in the water no more than 15 minutes total.

    So, I think the maker of this boat monitors this forum, does anyone know how I can get some customer support????? I'd like to get another ESC.

    Thanks.
    Bueller ?? Bueller ???

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    AL
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Mine actually went up in a hot smoldering mess with almost the same setup and less than 6 runs. Hated to spend the money, but knew I was not going to get anywhere on the "warranty" claim. Went with Leopard 4074 2000k and 180 amp esc 5.5 castle bullets. Wanted to upgrade anyway, no problems now cool as can be like a rocket now. Sometimes good things stem from bad experiences!!!!!!!!!!!!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    HI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Blackwell View Post
    Mine actually went up in a hot smoldering mess with almost the same setup and less than 6 runs. Hated to spend the money, but knew I was not going to get anywhere on the "warranty" claim. Went with Leopard 4074 2000k and 180 amp esc 5.5 castle bullets. Wanted to upgrade anyway, no problems now cool as can be like a rocket now. Sometimes good things stem from bad experiences!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Thanks for the reply. I will be seriously pi$$ed if the stock motor and ESC go up in smoke. I bought the boat because the quality was already supposed to be in it. I'll report back if my boat craps out.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    218

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post

    You should double check your esc nipples for silicone in them and the rudder for metal chips inside it.
    My new esc was blocked with some and I cleaned them out.
    Good thing I check for good flow and blow in the nipples.
    +1 on that after reading this i checked mine and... wow!!! pluged up almost solid with silicone!!! i also think its always a good idea to cool your esc 1st. and its too easy to upgrade your tubing for some 1/4" thin wall fexible pvc tubing so why not? ...THANKS LENNY! you saved my esc!P4100509 yyyy.jpgP4100510.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    49

    Default

    I have been working on mine and found the switch to the 1/4 tubing a huge plus. Thanks for the tip! Hopefully my batteries will show up and I can get it in the water!

    Note: Mine also came with the cooling lines hooked up to the motor first when the directions for the ESC say to cool it first than to the motor...

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