sv27 my first run...few q's

[leeuk]

hey guys,you may of seen my earlier posts saying i got myself a used sv27 from ebay...well today i finally got her wet!

altho was nice to have a go of my first fe boat,i couldnt help thinking it wasnt running 100%...
i am totally new to fe boats and maybe im just being picky but i felt the boat had a few probs which were..

boat didnt like turning left until on a plane..
also the boat took about 3-4 seconds at full throttle before it would get onto a plane and really seemed to drag its ass in the water

spec as follows..

sv27
stock motor
stock prop
60amp seaking esc
trim tabs set neutral
both turn fins
strut angle is neutral

things i tried....

adjusted the D/R to try to get more left turn at lower speed,also tried altering the buckle that attaches to the rudder,neither really helped

couldnt really get it to plane any better,i tried moving the lipos back and forward an inch but no help,from what ive read most experienced sv27 users tend to say just adjust the COG rather than altering trim tabs and stinger angle,i do have a CF40 prop to try as ive heard its the same size as the stock prop but being a 2 blade will help get on plane better/faster,is this right?

will try get some pics and vids up which my help you guys understand what im trying to say,but any comments would be great

thanks for reading

[leeuk]

heres the link to a video my friend made for me of my sv27

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fyzM...layer_embedded

[Duster19]

Cool video... and I look forward to watching our builds.

I'm no PRO, but my boat running 6 cell Ni-mhs and an aftermarket prop Octura 440/3 got to plane much faster. I would go in that direction first.


Dave

[Diesel6401]

The slow to plane is normal with the stock prop. If you don't want to buy a metal prop and do the sharping and balancing grab yourself a CF42 and CF45 from here at OSE. Good quick upgrade over the stock prop. If you want a good metal prop grab a grim 42x55 make sure you sharpen and balance it or buy it sharpened and balanced. The CF props are a good quick and cheap upgrade over the stock.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...t=Carbon+Props

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=dh-aqub9725 don't run this as is.. Make sure you get it S&B.





Old SV vids
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t1ksDActBo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JSwz6hiRwc

[leeuk]

im glad you've sed that about stock prop as thats what i thought first,i know its def not my lipos not giving enough power as there brand new,fully balanced 30-40c 5000mah ones so plenty there,was really happy temps wise as both the esc and lipos didnt go much warmer than body temperature,altho the motor did get a little warm it wasnt dangerously but im gona look into getting the upgraded water jacket from either ose or kintec and file out the rudder pick up just to help cooling as i cudnt really see any water coming from the outlet when running.

Diesel,is the cf40 still ok over stock as ive seen people mention the cf42 and 45 more often than the cf40,and are these both ok on stock motor?
im running the seaking 60 esc and im quite impresed with it so far,easy to program with program card and a good fairly cheap upgrade over stock esc with little more scope on ampage draw so i felt safer in the water.

Duster,how you getting on with your build buddy?

[Diesel6401]

im glad you've sed that about stock prop as thats what i thought first,i know its def not my lipos not giving enough power as there brand new,fully balanced 30-40c 5000mah ones so plenty there,was really happy temps wise as both the esc and lipos didnt go much warmer than body temperature,altho the motor did get a little warm it wasnt dangerously but im gona look into getting the upgraded water jacket from either ose or kintec and file out the rudder pick up just to help cooling as i cudnt really see any water coming from the outlet when running.

Diesel,is the cf40 still ok over stock as ive seen people mention the cf42 and 45 more often than the cf40,and are these both ok on stock motor?
im running the seaking 60 esc and im quite impresed with it so far,easy to program with program card and a good fairly cheap upgrade over stock esc with little more scope on ampage draw so i felt safer in the water.

Duster,how you getting on with your build buddy?

Yea the CF40 is ok over stock, but the CF42 and CF45 have better results. The CF40,CF42 and CF45 are all just fine with the stock motor. I even ran a CF48 with the stock motor and esc, but I really don't recommend it that much. Stick with the 42 and/or 45 and you'll be golden.

[leeuk]

sweet,thanks diesel,was hoping you or wizard would notice my thread and help me out,like ive sed before..im new to fe boats so this is a big learning curve for me so any help is great and very much appreciated.

another quick question,when the boat is on plane..how wet should it be? at a guess i would say mine was running nearly more than half the boat length in the water but after seeing your vids it looks like your running 2-3 inch?

[siberianhusky]

A few feet of cavitation is normal on take off, if mine doesn't cavitate it shoots out of the water and rolls right over!
It's also normal for them not to turn left as well as they do right. In a right turn the prop is helping pull the boat around, going left it is resisting turning left.
Most race boats are not set up to turn left at all.
The trim tabs and strut on mine are dead level with the bottom of the hull, CG between 27 and 30% from the transom, in flat water I move the packs to the 27% mark.
Mine also runs a little looser and faster on the water if there are some ripples on the surface.
My favorite all around prop on mine is an octura x440/3, most runs don't end up with a retrieve with this prop, in flat water or when running alone I can run a bigger/ faster prop, when there are 4 other boats on the course though the water gets pretty chopped up and all out speed is not really what finishes a race in those conditions. I'll give up some top end speed for the improved handling.

[leeuk]

havent really read up on cavitation but at a guess.. is it were the props spinning and sort of tries to push the rear of the boat downwards slightly until it gets momentum to drive forward??

i was running in flat water yesterday and was great,like ive sed,if it could get on plane easier then id feel alot happier..i didnt like how it was draggin it ass in the water but wasnt sure if this was normal for stock and was worried that because of this,it would draw more amps

[leeuk]

also i would like a better water jacket,but theres a couple to choose...i like the one listed on kintec as the sv27R super-cooler..would this fit the stock sv27 1500 motor?

[siberianhusky]

Yep cavitation is when the prop is spinning but the boat is moving really slow and the transom kind of sucks down, then all of a sudden it hooks up and goes.
The 540s super cooler water jacket will fit.
The UL-1/Motley Crew and SV27r have a slightly different diameter than the 1500 blue can motor, The Proboat size coolers are also the wrong size for that motor. Just tried a SV cooler on a Proboat Geico motor and it's too small.
It's the cooler right under the zip ties, 3rd thing down on the page should fit, even have a picture of it on the blue can motor.
http://kintecracing.com/Water_Cooling_BQFJ.html
It takes a bit of trial and error to get it set up, change one thing at a time and see what difference that change makes, for better or worse, bring it in and try something else. I use a small digital angle finder to set up my boats, makes it very easy to get back to a set up that worked really well. When you change props you have to kind of start over again as the lift and speed really changes how the boat handles.
I generally leave my trim tabs set at 0* to the bottom of the hull and change the stinger by 1 degree at a time, either positive or negative depending on what the nose of the boat is doing. Unless it is really windy and rough I never have my CG more than 30%, I find it spins out in full speed turns if the CG is too far forwards. The nose digs in and the boat whips around and usually flips!

[leeuk]

will prob order the 540s one then but it doesnt have the add to cart button on so im guessing there out of stock as jan told me last time that if the add to cart button isnt visible then they prob dont have them in stock

[leeuk]

just emailed jan and gt an almost instant reply saying there out of the supercoolers and maybe a while til they get ome made...damn

[siberianhusky]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80030
here you go, from the Offshore electric store, think it's in stock. Steve is also a great guy to deal with, fast shipping turn around.
I have the older black version on mine.

[leeuk]

Thanks buddy,will def look into that.

[Goonboy2]

Thanks for the advice on CG settings. Can you translate 27% and30% into millimeters or inches from the transom? Thanks.

[leeuk]

well ive ordered a new cooling jacket and 2 new props,a cf42 and cf45 so shud have plenty of fun with these.

i have a question tho,do props wear down from normal use? i know full size boat props suffer wear but do the same things happen with rc versions?

[Goonboy2]

Yes, they do wear but they will chip, bend or break first. But be glad they do, better to break a prop than a transom.

[Goonboy2]

siberianhusky,
Just did the math on the center of gravity question. Figuring the total length of the SV at 686mm (27") - 27% would be 185mm or 18.5cm or 7.3" from the transom AND 30% would be 206mm or 20.6cm or 8.1" from the transom. How does this match up to your positions?
Goonboy2

[siberianhusky]

I have 2 marks at 7 and 8", depending on water I'm between these two points, farther forward if it's rough, right back if it's mirror smooth.
Rudder tucked in tight to the transom, stinger at 0 degrees to the keel and trim tabs all the way up.
The carbon props are great for testing but don't last, just last weekend a kid had the entire carbon prop explode during a run, no hub, nothing left on the shaft!
Figure out which one you like then get a metal one.
Each boat is a little different, we have 4 around here that run regularly and all of them seem to need a little bit different setup. The only difference should be colour, sometimes we even end up running the same size and brand of battery yet there are still slight differences.

[Goonboy2]

siberianhusky,
Please clarify
Are you suggesting that we pull the rudder in as far as it will come - like 85 degrees?
Are you suggesting that the trim tabs be bent up or stay level with the bottom of the hull?
Haven't tried your Octura 440/3 yet, that will be my next prop.

SV27, UL1 motor, HK-180 ESC, Grim Racer 42-55, 2x2S25C-4000mah (soon to be 2x2S45C-5000mah)

[siberianhusky]

Yep pivot the rudder so the bottom is as close to the transom as possible, helps keep the nose planted in the turns. Not sure of the angle, never measured as it's as far as it can go.
My tabs are as high as they will go without bending them, the screw on the adjusters is just touching the tab to keep it from flexing.
turnfin straight up and down looking from the side. I don't have a turnfin on the port side, no need for me, I only make right turns around a course (real or imaginary depends if we feel like putting out the bouys). Late in the year we have some weed problems in out pond so anything that hangs down is a potential weed collector as well.
Sharpen both the rudder and the beveled side of the turn fin until they are knife sharp, the blunt factory edge is awful!

[Goonboy2]

Roger that. Turn fins and rudder and prop are razor sharp.
Currently I have turn fins at 90 degrees.
Have you ever tried the turn fin(s) in another position like 135 degrees or 180 (horizontal) or even more disengaged like 200 or 220 degrees?

[makin' waves]

I tried the rudder tucked under and didin't enjoy my boat as much, kind of like the boat skipping round the corners, and i'm not racing
its just for fun!

[makin' waves]

heres the link to a video my friend made for me of my sv27

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fyzM...layer_embedded

Your boat looks like its going well mate! get another prop and it'll be even better... for sure!

[leeuk]

Ive got a cf40 2 blade to replace the stock one and a cf42 &45 on way from ose so cant wait to give those a try!

[Brian711]

I'm going to continue to post in this thread as I just bought a Supervee 27 (not the R) and am VERY new to FE boating as well. Here's hoping the thread isn't dead.
I got my Supervee Thursday, took it out for a spin and was VERY disappointed with the turning radius. leeuk posted a you tube video earlier in the thread (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fyzM...layer_embedded) and I would have to say my turning radius is about 1/4 of his. When turning my boat with the remote the rudder only turns about half as much as you could turn it by manually moving it. Has anyone had similar issues? Am I doing something wrong, or do I have a wrong setting? The trim on the remote is set to even so I am at a loss. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Brian

[Diesel6401]

Did you adjust the d/r? On the tactic radio its to the right of the throttle and steering trim on the old fm radio its on the top by the antenna.

Samsung Galaxy III via Tapatalk

[Brian711]

Thanks. The manual didn't state what D/R was, and when I was originally messing around, I assumed it meant "Drive" and "Reverse" but since I heard the Supervee didn't have a reverse, I just left it. Out of water the rudder turns much more now. Can't wait to test it out. Thanks Diesel!

[Goonboy2]

Also, you might try these:
Take the connecting rod loose from the rudder and make sure everything moves with minimal force.
Move the pivot at the rudder to the outside hole.
Install a longer servo horn.
Adjust turn fins to less than 90 degrees down.