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Thread: Fightercat 950 Q build

  1. #1
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    Default Fightercat 950 Q build

    Ben and I were in discussion a week or so ago and got on the topic of the new cats hes got out. He mentioned he had a 950 that needed completion and asked if Id perform the taks. "uhh, YEAH!" So it arrived Saturday. Its the only hull of the 950 lot that he got in Glecoat and not full carbon. Lay up is beautiful. It is a TFL hull measuring 37x11. The hull bottom is designed a lot like the PB Miss G, but the flat ride pads have a little angle on them, so its a combination of both. It arrived painted and with 99% of the hardware. The rudder mount and strut had already been mounted. He included one of his tricked out aluminum V-hull motor mounts that with some small modifications work well in the cat hull. And a bonus, its already got paint on it.

    I first assembled the mount just to see it in its correct form. (last pic) Then it came apart, removed the esc plate and set aside, ground off the esc extension mount pieces that are on the motor mount portion and flip the mount upside down. Stick it all back together and its a thing of beauty. (first pic but its all upside down to show the grinding)

    For now Ive just set it in a beed of epoxy layed down both sides of the tunnel and a beed along the contact point (bottom) of each mount support. I will reinforce it at a later point. It had to be placed w/in an inch or two front to back to clear the canopy. I put it in about the middle. I also did a little oblonging of the adjustment hole, mount support side, to raise the motor a bit in order to get a better angle down thru the hull. I also had to cut a hole in the rear mount support for the wires to pass thru. I plan on installing a rubber grommet to isolate the aluminum from the wires.

    Once that had tacked, I moved on to the stuffing tube. Ben supplied me w/ a tube and inner liner for use with a 3/16 flex he had also included. The nose of the strut would have had to been modified (drilled larger) for the tube to be inserted. Rather than doing that, I decided to go for my second build against using teflon liner. More and more folks seem to be going that route. So I ran to the hardware store and grabbed a stick of 1/4" brass, cut it to length and bent it up. After a few tweaks, I acheived a happy bend, added a stuffing support in the hull which I tacked in place and then taped up and epoxied the stuffing tube into position. Once cured, I did something I hadnt really done yet. I really like how under the Proboat cats, thay have extra resin where the stuffing tube leaves the hull, like a built in wedge. I taped up the sides, inside etc etc to make sure there would be no run out, and filled the "wedge" with resin. Once given a light touch with sand paper and a little shape to the back, and a quick shot of white paint, its going to look real nice.

    Thats about as far as I am as of now. Updates to soon follow as Im trying to have it done for this coming weekends Club meet. Ben asked if Id set it up for Q-offshore, which is perfect as Im currently working on my Q-offshore boat and wont have it back in the water by then. He also supplied me with a Tenshock CZ2760 4500w 8 pole 45 x 80mm motor at 1600KV to run 6S for the class. Should scream.
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  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Sucks to be you :P

  4. #4

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    Nice build. Curious how these handle vs the daytona hulls.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  5. #5
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    Looking awesome buddy. Seems like Ben is really coming up with some excellent hulls. Very cool!

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  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Looks like good access for packing batteries in.Nice and open hatch area.I like the slight angle on the sponsons,my MG will trip in a corner on someones wake.

  8. #8
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    Certainly is a nice hull. If your mg is tripping ... perhaps the cg is too far forward? Mines the only cat that won't trip on traffic wakes. I only hope this hull handles as well as my mg. Unfortunately I've run out of day and steam. I got nothing done on it. Worked outside all day today as its finally cooling off. I may get a bit done tomorrow. I've got some other things to get done for Benjamin as well.

  9. #9
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    How are the ride pads and edges?I'm gonna start on blueprinting the MG before my hull arrives.And got any ideas on having breakaway on the V-rudder.

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Haha, looks like Ben is too busy filling orders for people like me every second day to finish his own boat=P Will be intresting to see how it performs compared to his other hulls, I have a HK genesis and one each of his 32 and shocker cat hulls on the way so will be a nice comparison side by side. I see you have his CZ2760 that I tried my best to pry from his possession lol, I'll just have to wait it seems=P At least I'll get to see how it goes first!

    Make sure you keep us updated after your first spin Ben and great buildup Tiqueman.

    6BOOST

  12. #12
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    If all goes well I will be racing it at the local club meet this weekend. My job description is to build it, run it, tune it and review it for him.

  13. #13
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    Awesome=)

  14. #14
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    I'm hopin so. My goal is actually to have it done fridayish so I can drop it in behind the house and at least get the cog and strut correct, or at least close. Then hopefully Sunday it will be competitive. Its test n tune Sunday, no official racing but it will be going against other q boats.

  15. #15
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    Update. Got a couple hours in on it today. Need to figure out where batteries are going to go and install the trays, program the esc, grease the shaft and charge some batteries and its ready to get wet. Im hoping for a maiden tomorrow afternoon. As for the batteries, I may just velcro them to the hull for its maiden until I find the correct position, then install the trays.

    Benjamin supplied me with a stand up servo mount. I think I saw what his intentions were as a member posted a pic of thier daytona in another post and the servo was mounted down in the right sponson. Although, I think the aluminum ties in better w/ the interior hardware. I used a Dubro quick grip e/z connect at the rudder and swapped out the swivel link on the end of the push rod Ben supplied w/ a Dubro swivel link because the screw I used to connect it to the servo arm would not go thru the ball in the link provided. I installed a Seaking 180 because its what I have. Id imagine the motors going to be able to dish out more prop than the esc can take. But we will see. Ill be starting with a Tenshock 1.6ish x 42mm prop. I believe Benjamin is now carrying these as well. If not, he will have them soon.

    My only concern for practicality is the motor mount. It truley is a piece of art, but it limits access to the sponsons for battery installation and removal. I really wanted to go 6S2P but Im not sure if Ill be able to get them in. I got 3S packs in it but you have to put them in from the rear and slide them forward. This is easy now with no battery trays, velcro and straps. Once all thats in it may be a bit tricky.
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  16. #16
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    The ESC wont start to complain til you get in the 2.8+ total pitch area. Thermalling is usually the first thing to raise its ugly head. May want to add a couple caps to help it out a bit.
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  17. #17
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    Yeah I actually though about swapping it with the 180 I have in another hull that has extra caps. This should get me thru the weekend for testing. Supposed to be breezy thru Monday so we will see how Sundays lap events go.

  18. #18
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    Does the hatch cover have the windshield recessed?

    I hope it works as good for you as it looks. 'cause it looks killer!

  19. #19

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    Lookin good Scott.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  20. #20
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    Scott;
    go ahead and install the battery trays and the velcro in the sponsons.
    When you install the batteries in place for running take a LONG envelope and place it where
    the batteries go and then slide the
    batteries in place over the envelope and then slide out the envelope and there ya go.

    That is what I do on my twin mono with 6s2p set up.

    Carl

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    Yeah I actually though about swapping it with the 180 I have in another hull that has extra caps. This should get me thru the weekend for testing. Supposed to be breezy thru Monday so we will see how Sundays lap events go.
    Doesn't Ben have one of his ESC's he could send you? He has some big amp suckers. Surely an airbag would get to you by tomorrow and give enough time to fit it up? You don't want to burn something borrowed up if he has something easily capable in stock.

    6BOOST

  22. #22
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    We talked about ti. He actually recommended using a 180 and I told him I had one. He's also tested the motor on the 180 with good results. I was just commenting on how the motor may be able to swing larger than what I'm going to. Although I don't see it necessary.

  23. #23
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    Maidened her this morning. Running since right after sunrise. After a strut adjustment, a prop change and a few cog changes, I finally got her running very well in the straights. Conditions on the pond today are a lot like if there was race traffic wakes out there. Turning is an issue thus far. It spent a lot of its time upside down. I think I rolled it 8 or 9 times. She slides and drifts around the corner and then when she gets into a small ripple the outside sponson side will trip it and over she goes. I thinkI need a deeper rudder. The 115 I feel just isnt enough. It will pull it into a turn but cant hold it.

    I blew her over once running into the wind, it was quite a site to see a fresh build cartwheeling at 45+. This was right after I got it pretty close to dialed. Then before I could gert her up and going and into the next turn, all power was lost. Ran to the house to retrieve a fishing pole. I was expecting the worse. Turns out, I didnt get away with running the factory BEC on 6S. First time I had ever tried it. I usually disconnect and run a UBEC on anything over 4S. But after some quick soldering, she was back out and ran a few more laps before I brought her in. More to come. I think Im going to rob the rudder off my Pursuit.....
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  24. #24

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    Sounds like a hell of a start to a day.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  25. #25
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    Had its ups and downs for sure.

    I think before I change the rudder, Im going to work on the strut first. Being that the rudder is mounted to the V-mount, and the strut is kinda on a long bracket, the prop is a bit behind the rudder. If I drill a new hole in the stru bracket, i can move the strut an inch or more forward. This will put the prop about even with the blade. Im not sure what, if anything it will do. I still think it needs a deeper rudder. I wouldnt think rudder to prop position would be any factor in if a boat slides or not.

  26. #26
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    I'm curious about the relationship as well.The offset bracket that I made for the MG has adjustment room in regards to forward and back from the prop but I haven't tried it yet.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlcisneros View Post
    Scott;
    go ahead and install the battery trays and the velcro in the sponsons.
    When you install the batteries in place for running take a LONG envelope and place it where
    the batteries go and then slide the
    batteries in place over the envelope and then slide out the envelope and there ya go.

    That is what I do on my twin mono with 6s2p set up.

    Carl
    At first i couldnt figure out what the heck you were even talking about, envelopes and such.................i was like "yeah...........take another sip of whiskey dude", but it just dawned on me, that is a great idea on getting tight batts in. I have struggled with batts in a couple of boats where its a tuff fit.................great idea!
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  28. #28
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    The 3S packs fit in pretty easily. I wanted to run 6S2P but its not happening. They cant get in because of the mount. I went with a technique Ive seen at the club and one Benjamin suggested. I set the batts in and packed them in with noodles. It worked flawless. After several rolls and a cartwheel, they stayed just as I had installed them. Plus, its more flotation which is never a bad thing.

    Heres a pic w/ one side ready to go and the other the final piece left out so you can see the battery.
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  29. #29
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    would 5s packs fit?

  30. #30
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    6S 5K would fit if it wasnt for the mount. The side rails block all access. Couldnt tell you if 5S would clear but I doubt it. Ive got some 4S 5300s, Ill check them later, they might go in? But again, this is all because of the mount. Theres plenty of room in the sponsons and for larger batteries to clear the tunnel to the hatch lip.

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