Cable was always causing problems... so I put a waterproof DMG servo next to the outboard and made some rods to completely eliminate the slack in the outboard.
Now time to change the motor and ESC. :)
Might be the start of a projecr thread. Hehe.
Cable was always causing problems... so I put a waterproof DMG servo next to the outboard and made some rods to completely eliminate the slack in the outboard.
Now time to change the motor and ESC. :)
Might be the start of a projecr thread. Hehe.
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
Hehe cool it worked. I did that all from my phone.
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
Nice idea........mine hasnt caused me problems yet, but the darn flexshaft with the two square ends wears out/breaks easily and i cant find a replacement.
NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
Actually, we might be able to work together on this. I've been trying to find a "square end" press. I think Bonewar mentioned such a tool in the past, but can't find the post on it.
The 4mm cables are very close to the .150, so the square end might actually fit better and be a bit stronger cable.
A tip on the square ends; epoxy them together. The epoxy won't stick to the metal permanently, but will absorb the slack preventing pre-mature cable failure. The square ended stuff tends to round out because there's too much slop in fitment.
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
I've made the crimping tool before but the usual 2 plate version. They work alright but you have to align the flex perfectly and keep an eye for shaft rotation as you are crimping otherwise you will get little "pushed" out areas on the 90's. Lets just say its a learned technique. If you want to make perfect squared ends like K&B and the Hyper flex shafts it would be better to make (or have made for you) a 4 edge crimper like the Aerospace industry uses on end fittings for flex shafts. Shouldnt be too expensive but you will need a hydraulic press as well. Greenlee makes a hydraulic cable crimper that could work fairly well but I am betting you will have to modify the jaws a bit. I have one at work (20 ton) and its as simple as using a die grinder to change the face of each one. But if I did that I'm betting the Electricians at work would be pissed at me!
John
Change is the one Constant
I just ordered a replacement shaft from a place in FL..........only to have them call me and say they are on back order.........why allow a person to put it in the cart and pay for it if it isnt even in stock...............ridiculous...........the Stiletto has been sitting for a month now...........
NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
That sucks. Sorry to hear that. Perhaps this thread will catch the eyes of someone who can hook you up short term.
I have square ended cables, but only 1 end is square. If there was a way to fit a collet on the motor and slip the square end into the lower, then I could help you out now.
(I'm not sure exactly how the outboard cable system works beyond the top end. I've never had it apart, but if there's a way to modify it so we can get you going, I'd be glad to help.)
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
Thanks, i took some flex shaft to try and make my own a while back and made a lame attempt by using a belt sander to get 4 flat edges, was then going to solder it........the edges werent in a true square and dont really fit...............gave up on that idea. Thanks for the offer to help, i may have to check into putting a collet on the motor end and just buy a flex with one squared end and cut it to length..............thats a pretty good idea, i'll check to see what size collet will work and report back, i may have one.
NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
Ben,
I'll PM you Kriss Flynn's e-mail. He's made me some nice cables for my OS lower. He does nice work and is prominent in the tunnel arena.
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
Guys... before you go out and spend a bunch of $$ to make your own cables, these fit:
http://hyperprod.bizhosting.com/3_5_outboard_cable.html
You may have to trim the ends a tad (I sand mine on a disc sander), but they are otherwise the right size... I haven't had to change ones one in a LONG time!
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
i also know he has these in stock i was just there the other day, but if you tell him they are for the stiletto he has some that are drop in replacements they have a black spiral line around them and they come in packs of 1 or 6, i just broke my first one of these after loads of runs, i have had the ones without the line and i had to trim some off the length to fit correctly.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
hey fightercat i have done basically the same but i left the servo in the standard place and it works great, two lengths of 4-40 rod couple of new cleves's and two ez connects and i no longer have the troublesome cables.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
Sure fightercat no problem will take some later and post them
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
I ran into another problem and quickly resolved it. Great color scheme, one of my favorite color combos... BUT it had the wrong number on it!
FighterCat 012.JPG
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
OK, so if you're going to run 4s2p in this boat, don't do it with a 2200kv 80 amp motor, lol...
This lasted two runs and then completely demagnetized, barely making it to shore. Melted the solder right off of the motor leads.
It was pulling more than 150 amps and running really fast. No GPS, but it was cookin. (the same speed as anyone that's put an E-Revo 2200kv motor in one)
This is the first little outrunner I've blown up and I was pushing it hard to do this.
FighterCat Stuff 001.JPGFighterCat Stuff 002.JPGFighterCat Stuff 003.JPG
FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
Hyperprod makes a direct replacement.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hpi-dc1563s2AD
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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