Overheating!!!

[toxic-trip]

I received a UL-1 hardware and hull a week ago, I then put in my own electronics. I have 6x 3s 4000mah batteries, so I decided I will go with 6s 4000mah for my battery. I am using a hobbyking 3674 1660kv motor that is rated for 6s, I am also using a hobbypartz 120amp boat watercooled esc that is also rated for 6s. I setup my water cooled system as it starts in the esc then goes to the motor, I am using an octura x440 aluminum prop but I have 2 stock props.

Went to run the boat today, and got 2 runs in, first run was awesome. I ran it for about a minute and a half around half to full throttle, I then pulled it in and found out I could have tripled my time for the next battery. I pulled the boat out and everything was looking good, esc temp= 120 degrees, motor temp= 130 degrees, outside temp=80 degrees. I then let it sit for a while until it came down to about 90 degrees for both of them then went for a second run.

This time I ran it for about two and half minutes then it went into thermal shutdown. Finally got the boat back, battery was only about half depleted, but temps were through the roof. Esc temp= 150 degrees, motor temp= 195 degrees. I then freaked and took some water from my ice cold water bottle put it in my mouth and blew it through the water cooled system. It then got down to about 130 degrees each. I went home, and 30 minutes later, esc was back down to room temperature, but the motor is still at 120 degrees!!!

HELP!!! What is going on, why is it so freaking hot, do I stick with the aluminum prop or go back to stock?

[Diesel6401]

Could be a number of things

- Ineffecient 2 pole motor
- Prop not fully sharpened & balanced
- Binding in the drive
- Esc timing not proper
- Clogged water cooling

* running your esc at max voltage is never recommened, also running anything less then full throttle (i.e. half throttle as u mentioned) is also not recommened and is brutal on your setup.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

[toxic-trip]

Not running at full throttle can be bad for the system? I checked for binding in drive and there is none, I went through my entire water system, no clogging, prop I have no idea if it is sharpened or balanced. I am checking the esc timing and motor pole right now, hopefully this will help.

[Diesel6401]

Not running at full throttle can be bad for the system? I checked for binding in drive and there is none, I went through my entire water system, no clogging, prop I have no idea if it is sharpened or balanced. I am checking the esc timing and motor pole right now, hopefully this will help.

Yup running at less then full throttle (especially in rc boats where drag has more of an effect on the model) can lead to failures. Esc is like a switch it either want to be on (full throttle) or off. When you go half throttle the esc cycles on/off rapidly to meet the throttle request, the on/off cycling produces unwanted heat.

About the prop, it needs to be both sharpened and balanced prior to use. If you are not sure if it is, don't use it. A unbalanced/unsharpened prop can create a whole of of issues. The stock UL1 prop is around the same dia and pitch as a x440/3 or grim 40x52/3. Plastic or CF props do not need to be sharpened and balanced.

[toxic-trip]

I messed with the timing and it did not seem to help it at all. I am going to try again later this afternoon, I will go at full throttle the whole time to see if that helps, also I used clear dollar store tape for the hatch but afterwards it left sticky residue everywhere. What should I use to remove it?

[Diesel6401]

I messed with the timing and it did not seem to help it at all. I am going to try again later this afternoon, I will go at full throttle the whole time to see if that helps, also I used clear dollar store tape for the hatch but afterwards it left sticky residue everywhere. What should I use to remove it?

You can't just guess or move around the timing, you have to find what wind the motor is and adjust the timing accordingly. What exact motor and esc are you using (links please)?

Use WD40 on a cloth and rub the sticky residue off. Hockey tape is what I use to tape my hatches works the best.

[toxic-trip]

ESC: http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-seaking-120a.html
Motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15234

[Fluid]

I am not being cruel, just brutally honest. You may not want to hear it. A $40 motor and a $70 ESC, an aluminum prop and who knows what strut depth? You have discovered one of the traps of cheap parts. That setup with quality parts should work okay for two minutes, although it is still on the pretty hot side. What is the water temp? Is it really cooling well? We often have to run milder setups in the summer to avoid overheating.

The motor is now ruined, throw it away before you are tempted to use it again! When a motor gets too hot (particularly a cheap one) the magnets are permanently damaged. The motor efficiency goes to pot and you will ruin the ESC if you continue to run it. The Kv on that motor was too high for 6S anyway, you'll be better served with a Kv around 1400 - much easier on the ESC, cells and motor. A higher quality motor will be much better, you won't have to buy it twice like you did with the first one. Good luck and let us know if we can help more.


.

[Diesel6401]

I will say that I like the Hobbywing esc's, they have served me very well over the years in in boats, cars and planes and I am a true fan of them. But the motor is very questionable, it is possible a re-branded fsd motor which are garabage im not sure, but a cheap ineffcient 2 pole motor and your seeing the results. motors tend to de-mag above 150f so at 190 your motor maybe gone. A effcient 4 pole motor would be much better suited for this. Something like a 3674 leopard. I mentioned I love hobbywing esc's, and I mentioned I never run esc's to there max voltage, with that being said if you want to run 6s I would say get a hv esc...

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-3674&cat=148
1400kv motor on 6s if you want to go that route. Or keep your 120 seaking run the 1700kv and grab some 2s packs to match the 3s packs you have (same brand, mah and c rating) and run 5s. Just some options.

[toxic-trip]

Well I wish I would have listened to you guys earlier. I went with my friend to drive his boat and brought mine along to try and figure out the cooling system, I really wish I didnt now and waited until I saw FLUIDS post. I put it in the water and after trying to get the boat to run, the motor kept stopping so I went to pull it out of the water and everything went dead, I though something came unplugged. NOPE!!! Bad motor fried the ESC I think, motor smells burnt as crap, but the esc smells fine. The problem is when I plug the battery into the esc nothing happens, no motor, no receiver power.

A $110 mistake was made today, so I ask you experts, exactly what should I buy for esc and motor? I want a setup that I can run my aluminum prop, 6s 4000mah batteries and get about 3 minutes run time without overheating everything. I have a 36mm water cooled jacket, and a budget around $200 at max.

[Diesel6401]

Well I wish I would have listened to you guys earlier. I went with my friend to drive his boat and brought mine along to try and figure out the cooling system, I really wish I didnt now and waited until I saw FLUIDS post. I put it in the water and after trying to get the boat to run, the motor kept stopping so I went to pull it out of the water and everything went dead, I though something came unplugged. NOPE!!! Bad motor fried the ESC I think, motor smells burnt as crap, but the esc smells fine. The problem is when I plug the battery into the esc nothing happens, no motor, no receiver power.

A $110 mistake was made today, so I ask you experts, exactly what should I buy for esc and motor? I want a setup that I can run my aluminum prop, 6s 4000mah batteries and get about 3 minutes run time without overheating everything. I have a 36mm water cooled jacket, and a budget around $200 at max.

Sorry about your luck bud...


$200 reliable 6s setup....hmmmm don't think your gonna find that one bud. Some guys will tell you push those 2s-6s hobbywing esc's to 6s and be fine, I would say no no no to that one. If you want to run a reliable 6s setup your gonna have to come up with some $$$$ to snag a HV esc, there not cheap. I would stick to 4s/5s setup. Hobbywing does make an effordable HV esc, but it's only rated at 80amps, and a 1400kv 3674 leopard is rated at 60amp so not a lot of head room there and I wouldn't trust it fully. If I was in your situation I would grab the 2s packs that match your 3s packs for 5s like I mentioned above a seaking 180, rx pack (dis-able the esc bec above 4s) and that leoaprd 3674 1700kv for 4s and 5s runs. Just me.

[dana]

i agree with fluid and diesel. you NEED to invest a bit more money. i would at the very least get a leopard motor and seaking esc. some guys have used the cheap stuff with success, but in my experience, the one time i went for the cheapy… it lasted me about 6 runs before it died. the leopard 3674 are good motors… not the best but i use them with confidence and theyve always been good to me, as well as the seaking esc's. no problems. spend the money first. just think you could have saved yourself the loss here. sorry to hear tho man. i am planning to put a leopard in my ul1 and run 5s… we'll see how she goes

[Make-a-Wake]

You can go with the 1400kv 3674 4 pole motor the Diesel suggested............it'll have plenty of power and be in a nice zone on 6s.

However..................on this 'opinion based' forum, i would honestly not be afraid to throw this 4 pole 3665 1200kv in it on 6s. I would also not hesitate one bit to run it with a 120 amp Turnigy/ Seaking, or a SF120, even on 6s. The 3665 4 poler will give you plenty of power, and for the sake of a bit of comfort room(and to please some of the "dont max an ESC out" guys), the T80HV would be a great fit for it as well.

motor - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Inrunner.html

ESC - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Boat_ESC.html

[toxic-trip]

I am sorry to say MAKE A WAKE but I am not going with hobbyking anymore with boats. I thought boats were like cars or parkflyers where you can get by just fine with cheap electronics (unlike my 50cc and big edf jets). So lets say I can scurry up $250 for this power system (NO MORE THAN THAT, otherwise I give up on boats and go back to my zig zag racers, haha). So please everyone give me your exact recommendation for Motor and Esc with links (I am sticking with 6s, I am not buying more batteries!!!)

Thanks,
Josh

[Make-a-Wake]

OK, here's the stock system.....................out of stock at the moment

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=dh-aqcom-2030

If not, a Feigao 12L and a 120a ESC would work.

[Fluid]

First, suggestions of a "stock system" or a 12L Feigao are simply not appropriate for 6S power. OTOH a Feigao 14XL would be about perfect for you, decent speed without as much risk of overheating. You will need a minimum of a 120 amp ESC capable of 6S, and like others I don't run an ESC at maximum rated voltage. Unfortunately that means a high voltage ESC, they are not cheap. While I have not done it, I have seen others get by with a Swordfish 120.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-540XL&cat=116

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=hef-sword-120


Second, do not feel bad about your original choice of cheap electronics. That is a very common mistake by new FE boaters, and can be a much more expensive lesson than yours. The lure of a low price is high, but the satisfaction of owning a fast, dependable FE boat is even higher.


.

[Make-a-Wake]

Woah!! My bad, i got to thinking UL -1 and lost the 6s part. Certainly the system is only for 4s, i still stand behind my suggestion in post #13.

Bottom line would simply be a 36mm L motor in 1200-1400 kv range for 6s with a speedo that can handle it.

Sorry my "half asleep" suggestion, good luck!

[m4a1usr]

I am sorry to say MAKE A WAKE but I am not going with hobbyking anymore with boats. I thought boats were like cars or parkflyers where you can get by just fine with cheap electronics (unlike my 50cc and big edf jets). So lets say I can scurry up $250 for this power system (NO MORE THAN THAT, otherwise I give up on boats and go back to my zig zag racers, haha). So please everyone give me your exact recommendation for Motor and Esc with links (I am sticking with 6s, I am not buying more batteries!!!)

Thanks,
Josh

These items can get you performing well on 6S and Steve carries them.

Leopard 3674 1400kv 4 pole motor http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-3674&cat=148

Etti Race 2/7S 150amp ESC http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-race-150-opto

Get the extra cap bank for an additional $15 for running 6S, you wont regret it.

Next buy a good prop. Like the Grim 40/52. Dont run aluminum. Just my 2 cents for a setup.

John

[DBQuick]

Make- a -wake is correct use the original set up for the UL-1. I am looking to put in a bigger ESC like a Hydra Ice 120 ESC 399.00, and also I am going to put in the 1515.1y New Motor 250.00 in my UL-1. It sounds like you just need to put in a little bit of money and then your going to be real happy with what you have done. Don't get discourage I know it sucks when you think your on top of it and then KAAA BOOOOM things go for crap, You have come to the right place to achieve your goals, I have learn so much from here and BELIEVE ME I AM GREEN as to how things work with boats but now I am VERY HAPPY with my UL-1

[Fluid]

Make- a -wake is correct use the original set up for the UL-1....

Whoa dude, better read post #17. To be clear for lurkers, the UL-1 setup is absolutely NOT appropriate for the 6S voltage the OP will be using.


.

[toxic-trip]

Thanks FLUID for clearing everything up, everyone I am using 6S NOTHING ELSE!

I have decided to go with this setup, please tell me if you decide this is not going to work.

Motor: 3674 1400kv 2.5y leopard motor ($90)
ESC: ETTI 150amp 7s esc ($150)
Capacitor Bank ($15 w/purchase of esc)
Grim 40-53 2 blade prop ($20)

[Diesel6401]

Thanks FLUID for clearing everything up, everyone I am using 6S NOTHING ELSE!

I have decided to go with this setup, please tell me if you decide this is not going to work.

Motor: 3674 1400kv 2.5y leopard motor ($90)
ESC: ETTI 150amp 7s esc ($150)
Capacitor Bank ($15 w/purchase of esc)
Grim 40-53 2 blade prop ($20)

Grim 40x52/3?
Me likes the setup! A grim L40x57/3 is a wonderful prop for the UL1 also....

[toxic-trip]

So which prop for my setup (also batts are 30c)? I want at least 2 votes for one prop before I buy it today/tomorrow:

Grim 40 53 (2blade)
Grim 40 52 (3blade)
Grim 40 57 (3blade)

[toxic-trip]

Okay so I purchased ETTi 150amp 7s esc w/capacitor bank, I just need to order motor and prop.

Please let me know which of the three props in my previous post I should go with?

[Diesel6401]

Okay so I purchased ETTi 150amp 7s esc w/capacitor bank, I just need to order motor and prop.

Please let me know which of the three props in my previous post I should go with?

I've not read about anyone really running the grim 40x53. The grim 40x52/3 is a metal verison similar in size to the stock prop and is around the size of a x440/3. Its a good overall prop and a good prop to have in the prop box. The L40x57/3 is a lifter prop for hydros/riggers and is limited to those hulls, but is a very fast prop on ul1s. I would focus on the 40x52/3 and the l40x57/3. The 40x52/3 will be able to be used in more applications, but the L40x57/3 may yield better results on this boat. That's the best information I can give you. Just make sure you sharpen & balance them before use (especially the 40x57/3, it needs to be razor sharp). Ignore the fact the box on the prop says it can be run as is. The grim props need sharpened & balanced as well, there just not as raw as octura props.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

[toxic-trip]

With the L40x57/3 on the boat, wouldnt it run much hotter because there is more pitch to the prop so it is "biting" more water?

[dana]

I agree with diesel. I run both props on my stock ul1. 40/52/3 gets about 45 mph. L40/57/3 is the best so far with a cosistant 50mph with proper setup. Also he is 100% correct, these props need to be properly sharp, especially the 40/57 which required me 4 hours of sharpen and balancing to make nice. I've seen the 40/57 unsharpened and thrown onto ul1 and wouldn't even get on a plane. You MUST have this prop done rite for it to work well or even work at all

[toxic-trip]

Okay well I will get the l40x57/3 prop, I am getting a prop balancer with it also, I do not know exactly how to sharpen the blades though, have a link to a thread or something? Do you use just sand paper, hand file, dremel?

[Diesel6401]

Okay well I will get the l40x57/3 prop, I am getting a prop balancer with it also, I do not know exactly how to sharpen the blades though, have a link to a thread or something? Do you use just sand paper, hand file, dremel?

Well out of all the Grim props the L40x57/3 is the most time consuming to sharpen and balance. If the prop is not sharpened enought the boat will just cavatate, but if done correctly its a wicked fast prop. There is information on the tips section here at OSE on the store side. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...andbalance.php

I would highly suggested getting a good respirator as well. When I use to (no longer do) sharpen & balance my own blades I would wear saftey glasses, rubber gloves long sleeve shirt and respirator then I would vaccum myself off and the area with a shop vac and wash my clothes and take a shower as soon as i went back inside. Beryllium copper is some very VERY nasty stuff. I know do what I did when I first started I get my props sharpened and balanced for me.

[Stinger9D9]

Well out of all the Grim props the L40x57/3 is the most time consuming to sharpen and balance. If the prop is not sharpened enought the boat will just cavatate, but if done correctly its a wicked fast prop. There is information on the tips section here at OSE on the store side. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...andbalance.php

I would highly suggested getting a good respirator as well. When I use to (no longer do) sharpen & balance my own blades I would wear saftey glasses, rubber gloves long sleeve shirt and respirator then I would vaccum myself off and the area with a shop vac and wash my clothes and take a shower as soon as i went back inside. Beryllium copper is some very VERY nasty stuff. I know do what I did when I first started I get my props sharpened and balanced for me.

I agree. When I sharpen props, I keep a leak tested industrial HEPA vacuum cleaner (the kind they use for asbestos abatement) running right next to where I am working, and wear the 1/2 face respirator I wear when inspecting asbestos removal work areas.

You might say it's overkill, but you can't see all the beryllium dust you are making, and that dust will scar your lungs. It won't affect you immediately, there is a latency period (much like with asbestos exposure), so you may not notice any ill effects now, but may wind up paying dearly later on in life.

...not to be a Debbie Downer or anything...