Motley Crew Leopard 4074 install

[Pete32200]

The UPS man dropped off my Motley crew this morning that I bought here in the For sale section, I proceeded to gut it and install carbon fiber in the hull and hatch, a new motor mount, a B/S X445 prop and an 1800kv leopard 4074 motor ( the seaking 180 and upgraded flex shaft were already installed )

[99z286spd]

Nice job man! Glad you are going to get some use from it ! Just a note... I tried that deans connector thing.... They will get hot....mine melted a solder joint, but once I went back to 5.5 on the batts it was all good.
And with that 1800 kv setup the only thing that probly will get warm will be the batteries!
Good luck!
Leon

[Pete32200]

Stopped at the lake on my way to work this morning, it was running a little wet but handled great and it seemed like low to mid 40's speed wise, I think I can get a little more speed by adjusting the strut and CG, right now the strut is adjusted so it sits flat and level on the set-up board.
The motor, all the connectors and esc were all under 100 degrees after 4 minutes of running and the lipos were 105 degrees.

[Make-a-Wake]

You can turn a prop with more total pitch using that 1800kv Leopard...................an Octura x642 would get you a good speed boost, dont know if the hull wants alot of diameter but you could also try an x447.......

[Pete32200]

I may have to try one of the x642's....I have a 42x55 and x440/3 I still want to try

[Fluid]

I got near 50 mph with an m445 and the stock 1800 Kv PB motor in mine. You should be able to spin an m545 or m645 with that motor depending on temperatures and the speed you want. You need more pitch than an x440 has to go fast.



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[Diesel6401]

Yea that motor can swing a nice prop. I am running a x447 on my 1800kv leopard and it runs good. I run it on 4s1p, but like fluid mentioned a m645 would be better. I run a m645 on my Leopard 4074 2200kv in a Pursuit mono on 4s2p. Runtime suffers but shes a batt outta hell. I would even say maybe a s225 might work. DOn't trust those deans they ARE the week link you setup right now. Get rid of them asap!

[Pete32200]

I have 10 pairs of 5.5 bullets.....I guess I will go home and start soldering

[bruce5385]

i suggest that you stiffen hull up or add the 2 part foam to inside if you plan to go over 50mph. my boat is coming apart from bad crashes over 50mph. seems like the hull flexes and cracks/splits. i believe if you fill with foam like the ul-1 guys are doing it will be ok. im in process of trying to get new hull now and fill it with foam. good job on your build. good luck

[Pete32200]

i suggest that you stiffen hull up or add the 2 part foam to inside if you plan to go over 50mph. my boat is coming apart from bad crashes over 50mph. seems like the hull flexes and cracks/splits. i believe if you fill with foam like the ul-1 guys are doing it will be ok. im in process of trying to get new hull now and fill it with foam. good job on your build. good luck

When I was up at Kintec racing picking up the CF and motor mount Jan was telling me I need to foam it also, I am just afraid I will add too much and split the hull

[bruce5385]

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...L-1-rock-solid is a link to article on 2 part foam. if u use the 2 part foam it is light and will not break boat. if u use the foam from home improvement stores you will have a problem.

[siberianhusky]

LOL I should use mine as a plug, make a mould and build myself a carbon fiber hull, see what the design is really capable of, I bet it's impressive if you're not afraid it'll blow apart!
Wonder if you could cut the deck off, add some carbon fiber to both the deck and hull and glue them back together?

[bruce5385]

LOL I should use mine as a plug, make a mould and build myself a carbon fiber hull, see what the design is really capable of, I bet it's impressive if you're not afraid it'll blow apart!

Wonder if you could cut the deck off, add some carbon fiber to both the deck and hull and glue them back together?

i think poping the two pieces apart can be done. looking at mine were it is coming apart it seems to be like a shoe box(bottom and lid) i called aquacraft and you cant buy a new hull so im gonna have to add the foam or split the two halfs and add some material. at 60+ mph the crashes ive had are not good. next one will prob blow the boat apart. almost broke off right front part of boat(were it comes to piont about 2 in back cracked 80%around) split hull at seams(2 inches from back all the way around, in front in between the fork) also crushed in lid, stress cracks bottom center of hull in tunnel, and on right sponson on bottom(bad enough to take gelcoat off) i believe you can reach 70+ mph with no problems if you foam the inside.

[JPriami]

Just don't crash and it will be ok. Lol. Just kidding

[bruce5385]

yeah i wish it was that easy lol!

[Diesel6401]

I have filled hulls before with the home improvement foam. Worked fine for me. You just have to have places for the excess foam to escape. If it expands to much with no place for the excess to go it will split the hull. Good move on the 5.5 for the batteries. I am also using 6.0mm bullets from Hobbyking. They are truly awesome connectors, way better then the HK 5.5 bullets and more on par with cc 6.5s.

[Pete32200]

Kintec sells small quantities of the 2 part marine foam, I will have to pick some up next time I am there.....Maybe I will go ahead and foam the UL-1 also

[JPriami]

Use a little at a time. Too much and it will expand then the outer layer will dry and harden. Leaving some trapped inside that's not cured. Then when it heats up it will expand and pop goes the hull. I am speaking from experience. But I managed to save it because I caught it before it busted. I poked holes in the foam letting what was trapped and expanding to have a way out. Now it's all fully cured and has added more strength to the hull of my MG.

Btw if anyone gets the spray stuff get the blue can.

[bruce5385]

Use a little at a time. Too much and it will expand then the outer layer will dry and harden. Leaving some trapped inside that's not cured. Then when it heats up it will expand and pop goes the hull. I am speaking from experience. But I managed to save it because I caught it before it busted. I poked holes in the foam letting what was trapped and expanding to have a way out. Now it's all fully cured and has added more strength to the hull of my MG.

Btw if anyone gets the spray stuff get the blue can.

same happened to me. old supervee had nice buldge in nose. lol but the home improvement stuff will hold water(if u cut the dried foam it leaves it were water will absorb in foam) that was with the red and yellow greatstuff though.

[Pete32200]

Now I am afraid to try it !!

[Pete32200]

What is a good timing setting for the 1800kv 4074 leopard?

[JPriami]

I emailed leopard hobby about those motors to find out if they are a D or a Y wind motors. They said it's a D wind

D winds are normally 0-5 low 5-10 med deg of timing

Y winds are 0-10 low and 10-15 med deg of timing.

[Diesel6401]

I emailed leopard hobby about those motors to find out if they are a D or a Y wind motors. They said it's a D wind

D winds are normally 0-5 low 5-10 med deg of timing

Y winds are 0-10 low and 10-15 med deg of timing.

WOW now that's interesting. My Leopard 4074 1774kv ( i guess this 1800kv replaced it) was actually a wye wind and likes 15* timing. Interesting on that and good info. I guess to be safe run at 7.5 on the timing. Kinda that happy medium between both winds. I ran a Tacon (leopard clone) delta wind at 7.5 and it ran very VERY well at that setting.

[Fluid]

I emailed leopard hobby about those motors to find out if they are a D or a Y wind motors. They said it's a D wind.

All the other 4074s are apparently Y winds, see here: http://www.leopardhobby.com/product/...ionID=01020201
The Y motors like timing, the amount depends on the load. I would not run more than 5* advance on a D wind as it just generates excess heat, not power (except in outrunners, but that's another subject).

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[Diesel6401]

All the other 4074s are apparently Y winds, see here: http://www.leopardhobby.com/product/...ionID=01020201
The Y motors like timing, the amount depends on the load. I would not run more than 5* advance on a D wind as it just generates excess heat, not power (except in outrunners, but that's another subject).

.

I use to have a much more detailed print out of Leopards chart. They started changing a lot and removing a lot of data so I printed it a while ago, it had both y and d winds information on it. Now the real issue is finding what i did with the print out

[Pete32200]

I went to an M645 prop and 5.5 bullets on the batts ( and picked up another pair of 2s 5000mah 40c turnigys while I was at Kintec Racing today....I love having a full service R/C boat shop near by ... Set the esc timing to 3.5 degrees and headed to the lake, My Nuvi 200 GPS said 49mph and it seemed a little faster without the weight of the huge GPS crammed in there, So I am assuming I am at right at 50mph. The motor and esc temps were less than 120 degrees, however the 5.5 bullets on the motor got to 165 and were smoking.....and the 5.5 bullets on the batts were at 135.....when I run with the deans on the batts the deans connectors are only at 125 degrees. would some di-electric grease help or hurt the connection?

I also picked up some 2 part foam to do the MC and my UL-1, I should have some pics up of that process this weekend

[Pete32200]

mc pics 006.jpgmc pics 007.jpgmc pics 008.jpgmc pics 004.jpgmc pics 009.jpg


Got the foam in the hull last night, I originally was just going to drill a couple 3/4" holes to pour through but found a piece of foam in the nose ( and it was holding alot of water ) so I cut a slot large enough to slide it out, it wasn't glued in or attached at all, it just pulls out

After removing the stock piece of foam I could see plywood sheets running flat inside the sponsons front to back, they have large holes in them so the foam will pour right throught them without issue

I started by mixing 1oz of part A and 1oz of part B ( 2 oz total ) and did my first pour, Waited 30 minutes and Repeated that process 2 more times for a total of 6oz ( 3oz part A and 3oz Part B ) that got me very close so for the final pour I mixed 1/2oz of each and that filled it......I thought

Apparently there is a piece of plywood or some other material that runs across the nose and prevented the foam from filling up the front 2 inches of the hull......THE MOST IMPORTANT PART !!!!

so If you are going to fill the hull get in there with a long drill bit and put some holes in there for the foam to pour through, I need to figure out the best way now to get foam in the nose

[JPriami]

Nice job

[JPriami]

On the connectors getting hot try spreading the prongs out to make sure they fit snug. Maybe even go over them with fine steel wool to make sure they don't have anything stuck to them. I imagine the dielectric grease idea wouldn't hurt.
Checking the soldering connections by re-soldering if that don't help.

[detox]

This hull is begging for more kv. The Neu 1515 1y (2200kv) or Castle's 1515 1y. Of course maybe a leopard 2200kv motor.