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Thread: Prop ?

  1. #1
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    Default Prop ?

    I'd like to get a new prop for my Spartan and was thinking of a 3 blade prop- X440/3. Would this be OK with the new Castle ESC and motor and 3s lipos?

  2. #2
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    3s x 2 in parallel= 3s or 3s x2p in series= 6s ????
    When you know it all.......you never will learn anything new

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Champy View Post
    I'd like to get a new prop for my Spartan and was thinking of a 3 blade prop- X440/3. Would this be OK with the new Castle ESC and motor and 3s lipos?
    That prop should be fine. You could probably even go X442/3 without problems.

    Just for your consideration before purchasing; I have tried a couple different 3 blade props on the Spartan and they haven't worked all that well. They seem more prone to cavitation than the two blade props.

    I know that sounds a bit counter intuitive, you would think the extra blade would be more surface area contact and a better hole shot, but that has not been my experience to date.

    Kevin

  4. #4
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    i agree with dag-nabit it will also give the boat more lift out of the water hince the cavitation and you will lose rpm

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys! So would the Octura props, x442 and x642 be good options. How difficult is it to sharpen and balance these props or should I have it done for me?

  6. #6
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    ose now has sharpened and balanced props back in stock

  7. #7
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    Doesn't look like they have the two I listed

  8. #8
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    Try www.rcfunboats.com they should have good stock, didn't check but they always had the props i wanted.... They offer a sharpening and balancing for like 20$-35 $ depending on the size and number of blades.... you want....
    Scott Spartan#1: castle hydra ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220 turnigy 5.0 45c lipos with max amps water pump... Spartan#2: leopard 1800, octura 440 ,traxxas 8400 mah 25c lipos.....updated deeper hull....

  9. #9
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    Sharpening and balancing can be time consuming if doing it by hand (files and sandpaper) I use a few different power tools when doing mine and can usually finish one up in a few hours.

    If you are planning on staying in the hobby long term, and see yourself buying several props in future, it is worth the investment to set yourself up with a balancer and the necessary tools and learn how to do it.

    If you predict you will only be buying 2 - 3 props in the next few years it makes the investment in tools, equipment, and time a bit less attractive.

    Kevin

  10. #10
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    Thanks Kevin I hope to stay in the hobby... never know...things happen. I don't think I"ll be buying too many props. With the amount that I actually get to use it, I shouldn't need many I think I'd like to give it a go. Can you suggest a balancer and tools needed for the props? I'll look on u-tube later tonight for some how to's.

    Thanks again
    Scott
    Last edited by Champy; 09-07-2011 at 01:40 PM.

  11. #11
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    There are essentially two types of balancers, the Grim Racer style that has a shaft that rolls on two rods, or the magnetic kind that has a shaft suspended in the magnetic field of two magnets. I have both and find that for our purposes (non-competitive sport use) both are about the same with respect to the quality of balance. The downside to the roller type is you have to level it before using it, which is easy to do, but just another thing you have to fiddle with. This is not necessary with the magnetic style, you can hold it in your hand if you want to check the balance. The downside to the magnetic balancers is that as the pointed tip on the shaft the prop rotates on starts to wear down, the balancer becomes less sensitive.

    I have a slight preference for the magnetic style balancer. You can get high end magnetic balancers that are more sensitive, basically better magnets and hardened steel shafts machined to a higher standard, but I don't think these are necessary unless you are a serious competitive racer.

    For the bare basics to get started, all you need for tools is a set of 4-5 needle files (I went with diamond for only a few bucks more) and some sandpaper/emery cloth from 220 through to about 400 or 600 grit depending on how polished you want.

    Not absolutely necessary, but very handy is a piece of 3/16" rod and a couple drive dogs to use as a holder for the prop when working on it.

    Apart from that a Dremel tool with various grinding and polishing attachments can be handy (if you know how to use it) to speed up the process.

    Once you get started, you will discover a few tools you have lying around, or household items, that are handy for shaping or polishing the prop, and suited to the technique you develop.

    Kevin
    Last edited by dag-nabit; 09-07-2011 at 03:13 PM.

  12. #12
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    Thanks again Kevin. You are full of great information I'll just direct my questions to you from now on I'm going to start looking for a balancer in a few minutes so get ready for some more questions

  13. #13
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    Forgot to mention.

    Beryllium is a known carcinogen so you will also need some dust masks, and I also like to wear nitrile gloves when working with beryllium props. I generally wear these items when working with SS props as well, just for the heck of it.

    Beryllium props are softer material and easier to work with than SS.

    Kevin

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the safety tips I'm the head mechanic at a private golf course in NH and do a lot of grinding on different types of metals and always wear eye protection and dust masks because of the health hazards. Safety first I'm looking at some videos from you tube and trying to find a balancer.

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