Strut will not come off...

[Duster19]

I took the necessary bolts off and the strut seems to be rusted in place. I bought a used Supervee 27 and I'm slowly cleaning and adding new parts. Today, I wanted to take the strut offso that I could inspect and add my new shaft cable (teflon and bushing) and could not get the strut off. I applied duck tape (so not to scratch) and used a pair of pliers and it still would not come off.

Any other suggestions,


Thanks,


Dave

[m4a1usr]

You should only have to do a couple simple steps to remove the stinger off your SV27. First thing obviously is to loosen the coupler on the motor to release the flex assembly. Pull that out all the way and set aside. Next remove the pivot screw (top one) and the angle adjustment screw from the stinger assembly. Do not remover the screws going thru the transom bracket! Those remain. The stinger should now slide off. If it doesnt want to budge, try using a "J" hook (custom tool) and remove the bushing out of the brass flex stuffing tube. It shouldnt retain the stinger but maybe the inner tolerances are off? With the bushing out, there should be no reason it doesnt want to slide off.

Once you get this apart I would recommend you anneal the tubing right at the transom exit or take an exacto blade/ hack saw blade and put a couple cuts in the brass tubing right at the bottom. That allows the stinger to move more freely if you need some down angle on it.

John

[Duster19]

I got the brass bushing out and pulled on the "stinger" and it will not budge. I used a lot of pulling power with pliers, but got worried I would break it. It didn't come off. I don't think it even moved at all.

Any other ideas and thanks for the quick help.


Dave


PS. Does anyone think heat will help break it free?

PSS. This is a used Supervee 27 and it seems like a lot of rust has developed. My reason for taking things apart and cleaning. The transom bracket was really rusty. I filed it clean and applied some oil to keep from rusting.

[m4a1usr]

I got the brass bushing out and pulled on the "stinger" and it will not budge. I used a lot of pulling power with pliers, but got worried I would break it. It didn't come off. I don't think it even moved at all.

Any other ideas and thanks for the quick help.


Dave


PS. Does anyone think heat will help break it free?

PSS. This is a used Supervee 27 and it seems like a lot of rust has developed. My reason for taking things apart and cleaning. The transom bracket was really rusty. I filed it clean and applied some oil to keep from rusting.

Dave,

All the components of the SV27 stinger are aluminum. With the exception of the mounting/ retaining screws. The main body/ stinger may have been siliconed onto the flex tube by the previous owner. That could be one reason why it does not want to pull off. I can only speculate. If thats the case then your better off not attempting to pull it off. You can replace the inner teflon liner as it is. The screws, which are going to be the rusted items you describe, can also be replaced with newer non rusted ones. If all you seek to accomplish is clean the inside surfaces and replace the teflon liner you can get that done with out pulling off the stinger. The teflon liner will push out but you need to remove the motor first. A drill bit or appropriate sized solid shaft inserted from the bushing side will get it started. From there you can grab the end with a pair of pliers and pull the rest out. Just as a side note, most SV27 liners are 2 piece. Be aware of this before you get started.

John

[siberianhusky]

Galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and brass, be lots of white aluminum oxide in there, soak it in WD40 and try twisting and pulling, eventually it may come off. Once it starts moving you just have to keep working it.
The whole stuffing tube may come loose, thats ok they aren't very well bonded in from the factory, might actually make the process easier, then replace the stuffing tube.
On mine I cut right through the brass tube at the transom, makes strut adjustment really easy, no bending, just leave a length in the stinger to hold the bushing or use a pair of Octura lead teflon bushings inside the stinger without any brass tubing or bushing. This is a lower drag setup than the brass bushing.

[Duster19]

Yeah most of my parts and bolts have the white aluminum oxide on them. I've decided to just keep it on and if I end up having to remove I'll try the WD40 trick or just cut it off. :)


Thanks for your help,

Dave