Blizzard rigger- servo placement

[Basstronics]

One more question for tonight. I have what I have been told is a Blizzard rigger. It has home made hardware on it (very well made).

The previous owner had this in the water. However I cant figure out how the servo was attached and in what position. I dont see any logical fit. I dont see any glue marks or holes where anything was screwed down. Nadda... Furthermore, the push rod seal leaves very little for throw so I dont think servo tape is viable option here?

I have a Traxxas 2075 I would like to use as this boat will be going fast (I hope). I have a heavy duty servo arm. The servo rod is higher than the servo. Also the clevis is not located in line with the servo arm.

See pictures.

[Basstronics]

Anyone?

Ive spent almost two hours looking for pictures. I have found one but judging from the tub size it was much wider than mine OR they were using a smaller servo. After doing some measuring I think a Traxxas 2080 servo or similar is what I need. However I am unsure if this servo has the power to move the rudder especially at speeds around 60mph?

How much rudder throw does a rigger need?

[m4a1usr]

Wow. Does that bring back memories. Looks like a tail pipe view of a Blizzard from the pics. You could get by with a smaller servo if you have to. I think all of mine ran a Futaba 3003. But if you choose to stick with a 2075 theres no reason it cant be made to work. One thing glaring is you dont need all the goodies attached to the servo linkage. Get rid of the turn buckle on the rudder ARM. Yes it adds adjustablity, but you can compensate for adjustment on the opposite end. With the hardware you have mounted there doesnt need to be a lot of rudder throw. And at full speed you dont need a boat load. Maybe 20 degrees each direction? Depends on how deep the rudder is.

On the subject of rudder linkage, if you can, go down a size. Looks like you are running a 4-40 size? Dont need that. As short as it is, you can get by with a 2-56 size or a push rod in the .062 size. If that was my build I would install a push rod with a 90 deg bend on the rudder side and at the servo side put a threaded clevis going into the servo arm. You can glue down the 2075. Wont need a mount.

Have you settled on a power system? On 2S and a 6S 540 is the bomb and on 3S a 7S 540 is the alternative. A Neu 1506 is what I always wanted to try but decided to move up in hull sizes so that never materialized. A X632 is the ticket for that little rocket. Detounged, cupped and razor sharp makes for 60+ no problem. Mine did well with a Schulze 88WO and a Castle 120. YMMV.

John

[m4a1usr]

BTW I dont know who you purchased the hull from but that sure looks like my hardware I used to sell back when I made such parts. After 2008 I quit making hardware as it was no longer a labor of love and just too much time for me to commit to. But it sure has my signature or should I say Ray Fullers (I copied and changed his designs) for 4 or 5 years. After he complimented me back in 2008 on its function at a local race gathering in Seattle I decided to drop off the radar. Not for fear of infringement, but because I would never eclipse that moment. Why not end something at the top?

John

[Basstronics]

I bought the hull/hardware from Blackcat26. He said in the add that a co-worker built the boat and made the hardware. How much of that is accurate I dont know.

The hull as pictured is exactly how I got it. Havent done much with it in like a year or so? But Im getting her done before end of this summer.

Im going to look into changing out that servo rod, you are correct its HUGE. I dont like the pushrod boot, there is like NO give in it. So I will go down to the 2-56 size. I believe I have some threaded clevis's. I will need a Z Bend done- I dont have a tool

For power system Im trying to reuse a motor I had laying around and batts. I have a 3660 3000KV and 3S 2200 mah batts. Also have a 120A Turborix ESC. If that ends up not working out Im will swap the motor and batts for something else. Im hoping it will perform, just concerned I may not have enough RPMs.

I bought an X632 from you, so I should be good on the prop

[Jeff]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD927&P=SM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD930&P=SM

[Basstronics]

Went to the local hobby shop and picked up some 2-56 pushrod, 2-56 ball swivels. Im a little nervous that with just a 90 degree bend on the end it could come apart. So I put the new pushrod seal inside the hull.

I Removed the old pushrod seal I didnt like. The hole was wallowed out into a slot slightly. However I think my new pushrod seal will keep the water out.

Im thinking a small Z bend and put the brass connector on the inside of the servo arm as seen in the below pics.

Now for the servo I just glue it down with CA or Epoxy?

[hebner]

You should try automotive goop to glue the servo in place, it's what I use, never had one come loose.

[Basstronics]

Thanks I will get some today and get her glued down. I assume its somewhat removable?

Someone had a servo in here before but whatever was used to hold it down came off clean!

[hebner]

Yes, you can remove goop, just have to pry under servo to break it loose from the goop. Then you can peel it up like taking off two sided tape.

[Basstronics]

Anyone got any pictures of one of these riggers with gear installed?

The water jacket I got has opposing entrance/exit for the water so I know that wont work.

Trying to figure out where the ESC should go (I assume the nose?) And how the wires should be run.

[Basstronics]

How about a motor recommendation?

I would like to get a Leopard or a rebranded leopard.

3650 size. Battery packs are open. I was originally thinking 3S but 2S has also been mentioned. Having trouble finding a good 2S motor.

2S = 5000 - 5400 KV
3S = 3300 - 3900 KV

Im just not finding anything in the 2S range. So Im thinking of buying and planning for 3S.

[Jeff]

Hey Bass, it depends. Most racing set ups are hotter than that on 2s but for sport running you are going to have to just predict a set up.
The CG should be at the turnfin in my opion.

[Basstronics]

Damn the 2S is seriously hotter? I thought I was going on the high side there!

What RPM range would you suggest for this rigger and prop?

John said hes run that prop well over 40K RPM. So maybe Im shooting to low? I am just fun running- so I want a reliable setup that wont be blowing motors or esc's.

[m4a1usr]

How about a motor recommendation?

I would like to get a Leopard or a rebranded leopard.

3650 size. Battery packs are open. I was originally thinking 3S but 2S has also been mentioned. Having trouble finding a good 2S motor.

2S = 5000 - 5400 KV
3S = 3300 - 3900 KV

Im just not finding anything in the 2S range. So Im thinking of buying and planning for 3S.

The Leopard LBP3650/5400 2.5D would be great for 2S at 39k rpms. For 3S the LBP3650/3900 would be fine at 43k. I followed the crowd when I had my Blizzard starting out with the Hacker/Feigao 540S can. Then settled on the Lehner Basic 5300 can. With the Lehner I got by on a Schulze 88WO.. With all of the other motors I needed a CC120. Chances are with the 4 pole Leopards you could take a Octura 535 and see where you top out at but the 632 has been proven over time to perform in that hull.

I just used shoe goo to plant the servo in mine. Like Hebner said it will come right out when or if you want to sell or change things about. I got a picture lurking of someones "Wide Body" Blizard. 4" body. I'll find it and post. Might be an old picture of Danny's? BackEmf?

John

[Basstronics]

OK I think I shall find and buy a Leopard then.

Just got to decide which one :) Then the next fun thing is to find a battery that fits the hull.

Argh having hard time finding one with a 5mm shaft.

[m4a1usr]

John

[Basstronics]

Im going to order up that 3900KV Leopard and go 3S with it. Will update when it gets here and installed.

[Basstronics]

Motor came in, very nice.

Need to order can cooler. Looks like this is my only option:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=gnd-4197

[m4a1usr]

Motor came in, very nice.

Need to order can cooler. Looks like this is my only option:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=gnd-4197

You cant use a 36mm can cooler like the ones for the Fiegao or Hackers? Would a SV27 or UL1 cooler work?

John

[Basstronics]

This rigger has about pushed me over the edge of sanity tonight.

I finally got my motor put in, what a PITA. Noticed theres no teflon in the stuffing tube. Take motor out. Oh yes, the previous owner used .150 cable and no teflon. So my brand new .130 cable drive, coupler that just arrived from OSE today is suddenly worthless. So now I gotta buy a new $21 cable system and I need a .125" motor and .150" cable coupler and theres no such thing in a compression coupler... I dont think a set screw will work...

So now Im torn between possibly breaking the boat to remove the stuffing tube and replacing that OR buying another motor, coupler and drive shaft/flex cable. So yes Im a bit frustrated.

[srislash]

Robinson Racing has a spacer I've been using on my CC1415 in my Slash so I can Run 5mm pinions.Its a machined peice and is solid.Hate to hear of a guy frustrated.

[Basstronics]

After a good nights sleep and a hard days work I came back with a cooled off head and a fresh perspective.

I decided instead of buying all new stuff to suit the $2 piece of brass in the boat I would rip the brass out and replace it. I learned a few things tonight about the hardware. Like there was no lead teflon bearing- just the brass stuffing tube... No wonder the propshaft felt sloppy!

I also learned that my Fullers hardware I got with a 32" Pursuit must of been what the person measured to make this hardware. To much similarities for coincidence. So Im thinking of using that hardware on the boat all together (with slight mods).

I will have to consult the machine shop at work tomorrow to see if they would be kind enough to do some "government" work for me. Heck even if they allow me use of a mill I can do it myself.

[Basstronics]

I think this boat hates me.

I was stripping the paint of with citri strip. I had the sponsons off and had ahold of it by one boom tube, went to move it. It literally just fell apart and the joint... No snap, nadda...

So now I gotta replace a boom tube.

Was wondering if the citri strip weakened it or if it may of just been bad but not broken in two?

Also, where can I buy this stuff? Its 7.3mm OD and .5-.6 wall thickness. I would like to buy a solid piece now...

[Basstronics]

After I got all the paint off the boat I noticed that the sponson booms are actually inside another metal tube. So all I gotta do is get the old broken carbon out. Which is good, thought I was going to have to rip the wood out!

Anyone got an ideas on how to get it out?

Appears to be CA'ed or Epoxied in. I tried twisting the other end of the rod and it felt like it would just snap off...

[m4a1usr]

There are only a couple ways I know of to get booms out that have been glued in. Cutting them out is the obvious. Can be done but take it slow with a drill. The other is heat. I'm not familiar with the construction of your rigger but maybe the original owner remembers? That would be of great help. Replacing fiberglass or CF booms shouldnt be too hard to make happen.

John

[Basstronics]

I went the heat route... Probably should of went the drill route.

Ended up heating the area on the outside up with the heat gun. The carbon got warm and flexible. But then it happened. The aluminum tube the boom was in broke loose and the hole thing came out.

The OD of the boom holder (aluminium) is 8.3mm. The sponson boom tube is 7.3mm. Ive been able to find 7mm but not 7.3mm Think i might be in trouble here!

Ive found some 7mm carbon tube. Is this the same? Of is the material used on this something special?

The aluminum tube appears to have camouflage on it. Strange I know. I thought I noticed it on the sponsons but wrote it off as discoloration. But its there.

Were the kits like this?

[m4a1usr]

Never seen one done up in camo but its all about the owner and his tastes. As far as the 7mm boom material goes, its easy to buildup the ouside diameter. Carbon or FG will work just fine. Either have more then enough strength for that size rigger. Even if it was only 20 thou wall, but I bet its at least twice that thick.

The trick is to building up the boom od to fit the id of the Alum tube and make a shim. Nothing more. You can do that with something as simple as aluminum foil wrapped around the center of the boom. Or even your favorite tape. Sort of like a bushing or a bearing. Wrap enough material (one continous length if possible), something like 2 inches wide, around the boom until you get 7.3mm or what ever you need so that the boom goes into the Alum boom holder and fits centered in the holder. Once that is done and you are happy all you need to do is fill in the outer gaps with 30 min epoxy. Rest the hull on one side, pour the epoxy in around the gap and let it harden, turn it over and repeat. The epoxy will mold around the id/od of your tubes and viola! Your done. You could rough up the od of the boom where you expect the epoxy to stay but I dont think you actually need it.

The shim doesnt need to be structural. Just remember that. All its there for is to hold the inner boom, approximate to center, before you glue the boom in.

Anyways, your in good shape and can have it finished up shortly. Take your time. You know the ole saying. Measure twice, cut once. Good luck and post some follow up pics!

John

[Basstronics]

I will throw up a few pics today. sponsons use the same tubing, so I will have the same issue there as well

[Basstronics]

My dad came up with an interesting thought... Might explain why I cant find this elusive 7.3mm OD tubing...

He goes, "looks like an arrow" talking about the aluminum tube with camouflage.

So now Im going to Bass Pro tomorrow to check. If so I need to buy a single carbon arrow...

LHS was a joke today. One was closed other had slim picking- largest they had was .210"