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Thread: Motor wieght help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    14

    Default Motor wieght help

    I bought a Leopard 4074 2200kv motor for my Miss Geico. It fits well, but looks like it could put some heavy pressure on the wood in a crash/flip. Are you guys putting anything under the motor to support it? Could you show me a picture of what you did?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    39

    Default

    I'm rebuilding my whole boat and using the ose water cooled mount. I would say that it's gonna break first good crash you have. that would can only handle so much.

  3. #3

    Default

    I am using my stock wood in my boat for my 4074 motor. Finishing it up for a test tonight. What I did was laid some fiberglass over the wood area that the aluminum motor bracket rest on. And built up the back side of the wedge that goes down the the floor of the boat with glass and resin. So now its a good bit stronger. If you wanted (and I might later if I change motors to a bigger one) you could make a brace for the back of the motor that can be epoxied to the floor of the boat and supports the back of the motor. I did this on my first MG and it worked great.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    14
    Posts
    412

    Default

    What type of fiberglass do you use. I had my first go at fixing my cracked MG hull with epoxy(no problem) but the FG from the auto shop where a pain to work with. The hardner was a bit hard to mix to the right spot, and the fiberglass it self were a bit big(the treads/mask size if you understand)
    Drammen rock City

  5. #5

    Default

    I used the fiberglass cloth thats woven. Its easy to work with. but the hairs get everywhere. I used the bondo brand stuff I think it is. Im not home so I cant go look to make sure. I figured out a good way to mix the resin. I think its one oz resin and 12 drops of hardner or something. I use a syringe for pretty precise measurements of the resin and then divide the drops of hardner accordingly if making smaller amounts. If you get too much hardener in it the stuff will setup too fast and make you mad. So thats how I came up with this idea.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    8,010

    Default

    Do yourself a favor and forget the "fiberglass resin" (polyester) and other 'auto shop' stuff. I have used hobby epoxy and hobby cloth for decades and it has always worked great on dozens of 'glass hulls. Make sure the area you will be glassing is clean of oil, grease, etc. Sand it lightly with 220 grit paper and remove the sanding dust.

    Get the 2 oz or 5 oz woven cloth from OSE or the LHS (the 2" wide fiberglass "tape" can work the easiest since you don't have to do so much cutting). I have used regular 20 minute epoxy thinned 20% with rubbing alcohol - mix the glue thoroughly then add the alcohol. This brushes easier than polyester resin, doesn't stink as bad as polyester and works great. Or use the "finishing resin" epoxy, it does not need thinning. I use disposable 1" paint brushes to paint on the epoxy. Once you do this you will never go back to polyester. Plus the epoxy has other uses, not just bonding the glass cloth to the hull.



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  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks for the tip fluid.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    14
    Posts
    412

    Default

    yeah thanks. My mix is not dried up yet, since wednesday. Still sticky so I can't sand it down, but the hull is not leaking water , so I don't bother. Nothing you will notice when in zooms by wot.


    IMG_2851 (Medium).JPG
    Drammen rock City

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