Proboat shockwave 26 build

[kookie_guy]

Got this hull last year from someone, and I never used it. So now I'm tearing it apart. Here's the plan....

Motor: blackjack 26 brushless motor
ESC: Seaking 60A
Prop: octura X642 S&B
Batteries: Rhino 4900mah, 2x2s for a 4s setup
Harware: my custom hardware that's pictured, .150 flex cable

Here's the start...the hull with all the plastics ripped out. The transom will be getting a laminated sheet of CF for strength, and the hull will be reinforced with fiberglass. The stuffing tube still has to come out to make room for bigger one. And the hardware I had on the BJ26 before I killed her. She's getting a dual stinger upgrade, so her hardware is being handed down.

[kookie_guy]

Some good news...the stock stuff tube has smaller diameter bushings installed in either end. These bushings can be removed/drilled out, and it's the perfect fit for a .150 cable with no liner. Sweet.

Where's the COG supposed to be on monos anyhow?

[kookie_guy]

Finally some updates.....

I filled the tight corners with marine epoxy and cabosil silica so they are easier to lay fiberglass into. A little hard to see on the pic.


Here's one side of the hull with a layer of fiberglass cloth in place. Also with marine epoxy. Also a little hard to see.


I got a 4047 motor mount from a member, so did some work for it to fit the blackjack26 motor. First I made an adapter ring. It serves 2 purposes. 1) to bring up the diameter for the rear motor ring. 2) with the machined lip, it holds the rear plate of the motor from popping off. The slit is so that it will compress as I tighen the ring.


Here it is on the back of the motor.


Had to put in new slotted holes since the motor is not as long.


And the final assembly. Looks sexy don't it? Those colors with the carbon fiber look awesome.


Still have to fiberglass the other side, and the bottom of the hull. Then I can finally build it up.

[Make-a-Wake]

Very nice!

[Ty@Tekin]

I have that same mount in my Super Hawaii. Looking good so far!

[kookie_guy]

I just finished putting down the fiberglass and epoxy today. So tomorrow (if I have time) I'll start laying things out, and I'll post some more pictures.

[kookie_guy]

Ok. Made some more progress. I've been getting a bunch of landscape work done so there hasn't really been much time for this. Anyhoo.....

My henkel (loctite) rep was kind enough to drop by my work to give me this "sample" lol


Strut bracket and strut are mounted. Prop is also installed (X642)


Fiberglass work is all done, and motor is in place. Also made a support plate to keep the stuffing tube nice and stiff.



Hysol epoxy adhesive put to good use.



Next step is to make a custom bracket to attach the rudder. Then some more carbon fiber work to make battery trays, and an electronics mount (ESC, servo, receiver). Then she will be ready for the test run.

[roadrashracing]

why not just use velcro for battereis?

[kookie_guy]

why not just use velcro for battereis?

I want to be able to loop the velcoro around the battery. I don't want to risk the pack coming loose in a high speed crash and knocking off the hatch. I pretty well have em done already from my blackjack that's getting rebuilt. I can just use them. I will space them off the hull a little so I can get the velcro strap under it.

[kookie_guy]

Some more progress....

Here's the snazy bracket I made for the rudder. The great thing about this bracket is that I can mount the rudder inline as shown below, or as offset once I make 2 round offset posts. This will allow me to change on the fly as required. Now time to go work on the servo mount.

[Make-a-Wake]

I guess that inline rudder will work, but it sure is alot of stuff hanging way off the back......................and dont take offense, but it doesnt look real nice to the eyes.........to each his own though. Still waitin to see how she runs when done

[kookie_guy]

I guess that inline rudder will work, but it sure is alot of stuff hanging way off the back......................and dont take offense, but it doesnt look real nice to the eyes.........to each his own though. Still waitin to see how she runs when done

I agree. Going by those pictures, it does make it look super bulky and not that nice. I'll take a few pics of the complete boat. It really does look much better in person.

[F1 madness]

Hey bud looks ok,but thats a surfice drive prop when it gets on going you only gonna have the prop in the water and no hull and it will be unstable,i know some 1 who has the same problem with his,would of been better bring the shaft through the transom rather than underneath and removing the the shaft bulge and repairing it.
the only other way is change the prop or keep the revs down,but you will see for yourself when you hit the water.
JMO from what iv already seen

[kookie_guy]

What makes it a surface drive prop? I really have no idea, lol.

[kookie_guy]

Here are some more pics of the hardware, this time with the hull for a better size reference. On Monday at work I will make offset posts and try them on. They will eliminate the need for the spacer bracket.

[kookie_guy]

Since when is there a 6 image limit on this forum???

Here's the servo mount. Drilled holes in the CF so the epoxy will grab onto the mount



Here it is epoxied into place, and also a top shot of boat internals so far

[HYDROJERRY]

looks realy good and clean,,,love the lines on these little boats,,the hatch gives it a great look also..

[roadrashracing]

I have a boat setup this way also, it would pretty much ride on top of the water, I made some trim tabs and bent them down and the boat handled a lot better. Here is what I am running:https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...emade-hardware Did you add any meat to the transom? Might be something to think about.

[kookie_guy]

Ok, so since I'm better off going with a stinger strut (thanks for that info BEFORE I finished, lol. Yes, it's sarcasm) I decided to modify it.

Here it was with the complete internals. The flat plate is for the ESC, the receiver will be mounted on the underside of that plate.


Here is most of that stuff removed. What you see is attached with the loctite hysol epoxy stuff, so it's not moving.


Using the SV27R strut. Here's the bracket in place on the transom. It's machined flat, so no offset angle.



Stuffing tube removed. Took off a bit too much when I slipped with the grinder.

[kookie_guy]

Seriosly, why the 6 image limit?

Working on carrying the sharp V all the way down. I taped the bottom, and filled from the top with the epoxy. No pics of that. Will take some tomorrow before I do a final sanding on the bottom.

[Make-a-Wake]

Looking good!!

[HYDROJERRY]

where did you get the Hysol??? what part number, i use Zippy 30min epoxy but i here the Hysol is better??

[kookie_guy]

where did you get the Hysol??? what part number, i use Zippy 30min epoxy but i here the Hysol is better??

Company I work for does a lot of business with Henkel (loctite). I helped them get A LOT of that business with us, and I have a very good relationship with my sales/technical rep. I simply asked him for some, and he brought it for me.

You can buy it online. But not sure if it comes with the dispense kit that my rep gave me. I actually have the proper dispense gun so I didn't really need the kit.
http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...ctid=934&Tab=V

[HYDROJERRY]

so i would need a speical kit to use this,,

[kookie_guy]

so i would need a speical kit to use this,,

If you look at post #7, the first picture shows everything he gave me. The epoxy itself, a vortex mixing tube, the clear cylinder, and the plunger. The epoxy pack slides into the clear cylinder, and the plunger is designed so that you can use a standard caulking gun with it. The votex mixing tube is not a must, as you can squeeze it out and mix it youself. It just makes things much easier for 1) getting it into tight areas with precision, and 2) it mixes the 2 parts good and well. You also have to keep in mind that whatever is left in the mixer tube, is pretty well garbage, cuz getting it out is not really fun.

Not sure what these plunger kits cost to buy, but if you are really going to be getting the hysol, I can ship you mine for free. Just cover my shipping cost and paypal fees. It'll likely be about $15 to ship the stupid thing with Canada Post's rates. I can also throw in a whole bunch of mixer tubes, as they really are a 1 time use item. That's why it's good to have all the stuff you need epoxied ready, and do it all in 1 shot to keep the waste to a minimum.

[HYDROJERRY]

sweet il try to order it sometime today!!! and thank you for hooking me up ill get back to you after i get it orderd..

[HYDROJERRY]

Crap they have a minimum order of $50.00 worth!!!! i cant do that my wife would kill me,,, o well thanks for the info anyway Kookieguy....

[LarrysDrifter]

You're supposed to hide rc boat spending, Jerry.

[kookie_guy]

Crap they have a minimum order of $50.00 worth!!!! i cant do that my wife would kill me,,, o well thanks for the info anyway Kookieguy....

There's gotta be another place to get it. Other members on here are using it as well. You can ask in the questions area, someone will probably help you out.

[kookie_guy]

You can get em from mcmaster-carr

General page, shows the special gun that I have as well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-hys...esives/=dck1lj

E-20HP - Part #6430A19 is $12.16
Applicator Gun for 1:1 and 2:1 Ratios - Part #74695A71 is $27.74 (like I said, you can have my caulking gun kit, but for the extra $10-15, the gun is nice to have)
Mixer Nozzles - Part #74695A12 is $1.21