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Thread: feigao vs ammo

  1. #31
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    Why would you do that? It seams you are running it full under I'm guessing to keep her planted. That will slow you down a little but if you cut it down it's not going to be very effective at that anymore. I'm thinking with your tabs way dowm like that and the rudder all the way forward or under you may be slowing her down quite a bit. Maybe you have to though running the right prop with your motor/esc combo. You're probably running quite wet. That along with a butt load of grease might have something to do with your speed or lack of. Will she stay planted if you run her a little dryer running on little ripples, if so I bet it would run much faster with a thin layer of grease. I use grim racer blue speed greese.
    Actually it's hard to tell in the first pic it looks like your tabs are bent way down but in the other pics they don't look that bad. Neither of the leading edges of the trim tabs are below the hull are they? When I got mine one of the tabs was way to low I had to boar ovals out of the holes on the tabs so I could move them up so they were above the back hull. That would have of slowed me way down if I hadn't cought it.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunt92 View Post
    2 more.....
    Was that a nitro SV or did you cut out those air ducts? The onlything I can see that would slow you down is the angle of your trim tabs and the rudder and if you're using to much thick grease. Did you ever recheck the allignment of the stuff tube with the motor coupler, and are your props well ballanced and sharpened? If all these things are fixed or fine you must have had a bad motor or esc? How were your speeds with the stock sv27 gear in it if it ever was a BL27? If things were fine then and you haven't changed anything must be motor or esc?

  3. #33
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    i know a few guys running gas boats and the some times shorten the rudder less stering and more speed. no the leading edge is flush the trailing edge is about the thickness of it self. ose trim tabs that i got did have some play enough to get it flush. you said full under u are referin to the rudder?

  4. #34
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    i cut them out. for cooling the batts. when it was stock they got very hot. but they were 2100 venom 2 cells lipos. i didnt relise till to late that it pulls a lot of amps.

  5. #35
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    I bet that makes it a little trickey to tape her up for water proofing!
    And yes I meant the rudder. By running it full under your pushing the rear of the hull down which causes more drag.
    Last edited by Dale Koblitz; 02-07-2008 at 02:15 AM.

  6. #36
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    nothing gets wet. knock on wood i havent recked, yet lol.

  7. #37
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    so the rudder should be parallel with the transom? i never moved any of that its the way it came out of the box. tilted back would rase the front of the boat? and increase speed?

  8. #38
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    No, tilting it back would raise the transom and prevent the boat from plowing water. But you would brobably just whant it parallel to the transome like you said to decrease drag.

  9. #39
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    cool thanks, got to get this thing back in the water speedo is on its way
    Last edited by chunt92; 02-07-2008 at 12:05 PM. Reason: spelling

  10. #40
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    re: the pics
    your tabs are pretty far down. I haven't looked at the vids yet...does it ride wet or loose? I suspect it rides fairly wet. Those tabs are slowing you down.
    I still believe your water pickup is too low. easily worth a couple mph in increased drag.
    In the final pic...looking dead on from the rear...it still looks like your rudder bracket is not totally square. ..could be the angle of the pic, but try and twist it (don't force it! ) and see if those bolts might be a little loose. Mine works loose after several runs or contact with underwater debris/other boats.

    re: the holes in the hatch lid...nitro/gas guys can run open top, but it is not wise to run open top with an Electric. minimal wetness is tolerable, but bone dry is best...soaking your lipos and electronics is BAD.
    ...and you WILL wreck. especially the way you are pursuing speed...I'm really surprised you haven't wrecked yet to be honest.
    ...so is that a Nitro hull, or hatch, or just custom?
    There are several threads in this forum and other forums that detail several good ideas to enhance the performance and longevity of the SV27. It may take awhile to read through, but I advise all new SV27 owners search for and read through those threads and take notes...it'll increase the performance of the boat, the longevity of the components, and the most important factor - FUN!
    Last edited by Ctonez; 02-07-2008 at 01:08 PM.

  11. #41
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    Sorry Dale...I keep reiterating what you write for some reason...

  12. #42
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    would it be ok to recut the pic up tube? maybe a little off the bottom? because if i raise it it the opening will be upbove the bottom of the hull or does that not matter? as in the pic of the rear the rudder does look to be little tilted top right bottom left and ill decrease the angle of the trim tabs. straight no neg. & no pos.?

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunt92 View Post
    would it be ok to recut the pic up tube? maybe a little off the bottom? because if i raise it it the opening will be upbove the bottom of the hull or does that not matter? as in the pic of the rear the rudder does look to be little tilted top right bottom left and ill decrease the angle of the trim tabs. straight no neg. & no pos.?
    I don't run a water pickup like that, but you really don't need much exposure to the water surface to pick up plenty for the system. Adjust it so it is barely peeking over the transom.
    I would also move it further away from the keel so it doesn't interrupt flow to the prop...this could also contribute to the slow factor.

    re: trim tabs...It depends on how your boat is riding currently.
    I'd barely tweak them up, then run the boat and see how it affects the handling/ride/speed, then I'd bring the boat in and tweak a tiny bit more and run the boat again...repeat until the boat is too loose and then back them up to where it runs stable but fast.

    Keep in mind, the boat will start to fly a bit, and you will likely flip it with the trims too high...have a retrieval method ready and seal that hatch!
    How am I doin' Dale?
    Last edited by Ctonez; 02-07-2008 at 03:02 PM.

  14. #44
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    (pick up tube)ill try it with out the next time i run it. how do you or did you open the pick up in the rudder didnt you say you opened it up? what size? im debating on sending the motor back. tower hobbies is going to say sorry! and im out the shipping,what do you think. if i dont should i go with another ammo, or should i try one of the feigao's and what size?

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunt92 View Post
    (pick up tube)ill try it with out the next time i run it. how do you or did you open the pick up in the rudder didnt you say you opened it up? what size? im debating on sending the motor back. tower hobbies is going to say sorry! and im out the shipping,what do you think. if i dont should i go with another ammo, or should i try one of the feigao's and what size?
    feigao 9xl , get hydra 120 esc if u dun have em ..... your boat be a rocket , pls do some trimming to stable it too cause this will be a fast boat

  16. #46
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    just sent my hydra120 back and locked up my ammo both were fried due to bad set up and too big of a prop. check the vids earler in this thread. the vid that about 2.5 min. long is when she locked up.

  17. #47
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    read this thread: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...light=supervee

    ...and the RCUniverse thread it refers to. All the info you need is there.
    get a pad of paper and your beverage of choice and enjoy!

    read this too:
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=1939
    Last edited by Ctonez; 02-08-2008 at 12:51 PM.

  18. #48
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    thanks!....

  19. #49
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    i agree with taking the water pick up off and using the rudder instead, maybe you could open up the hole just a tad. Try wet sanding the bottem of the hull where it contacts the water, makes bubbles so less boat in the water.... i think. also i think the strut should be parallel with the bottom of the boat. if metal props fail go for the cf45. or 48 ha.

  20. #50
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    Oh Oh, you know what???? Screw me bad. I revisited the pics again........constantly thinking, why....why....why.....this is a good setup.

    Hard to see the pic, but is it me or is the prop. drive dog flat up against the drive strut or maybe more space is needed?? It's hard to see millimeters in a pic.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...3&d=1202364692 and https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...8&d=1202365379

    You need at least 2-5mm gap on that as the flex cable (I believe if I need correction please someone chime in) that will decrease it's length under rotation and if you have no gap there it's gunna smack on the srut and cause major or some drag?

    I hope that's it cause that is a easy fix!!!
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 02-25-2008 at 07:20 PM.

  21. #51
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    nice catch i would have to agree. my drive dog is about 3mm away from the strut.

  22. #52
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    I keep mine between 1/8 and a 1/4" from the strut. Actually that quarter inch extra distance from the hull makes a difference in speed also. 1/4" is suppose to be the fastest actually from what I've heard. And yes under load the cable shortens and if there isn't a big enough gap it will cause binding like Accord said.

  23. #53
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    yes your right the distance was too close but in the past two week ive bought another sv and ive done some changes closley to the other boat minus the prop the best on a stock sv was 36mph with warm 6 cell packs the volts are much higher than the lipos (lipos were 35mph) but the bigest killer was the water pick up it lost 6 mph. so along with an unbalanced boat i tried to compensate with the trim tabs down too big of a prop and im sure a few other things. right now im tring to figure out the best flowing water pic up with out slowing me down ive tried the stock pic up in the rudder but its not much more than a dribble if that. ill post a pic of the most resent changes also i took a drill bit that was like the next size larger (inside diameter) and opened up the brass nipples on the speedo and the one on the rudder.

  24. #54
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    heres some pics
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #55
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    heres a link to me and my brother n law racing on a small lake http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSV_8n7Zyu4&feature=user
    and then one running by my self on the 36 mph run
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLOtn...e=user:banana:

  26. #56
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    Looking good!
    36 sounds more like it.
    Getting more speed will now come from the little tweaks and prop work/choice.
    Good to see you're making progress.

  27. #57
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    Nice Videos! Make that Ms. Vegas chase you!!! On that 3rd picture it looks like your strut pooped a butch of grease out or did you pack that on there? It's still hard to tell with that grease in the way how much of a gap there is, BUT you are aware of that now so only you can tell. I'm glad that adjusting the water pickup made a difference for you! It just looked like too much.....sometimes more is just not better.....in this case.
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 02-26-2008 at 03:34 PM.

  28. #58
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    pooped lol, it just wiped it off the shaft as i put it in. the water pick up was the major problem it knocked off 6 mph. does any one have a picup that doesent slow it down?

  29. #59
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    special thanks to Ctonez the info he has given me realy has helped!

  30. #60
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    ...just payin' it forward. I wouldn't know half of what I know without the help of people I've met in the forums and at the races.
    Glad I could help.

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