Do Higher C lipos run cooler then lower C

[tiqueman]

Drive dog is what the prop locks in to so it doesnt just slip on the shaft. There should be a gap between the front of it and the back of the strut.

EDIT see pic

[d.a.v.e]

Probably way more pictures then you wanted to see.

I noticed after running it the other day the board that holds the shaft in place inside split? Any suggestions on how to replace/fix it after I figure out what caused it to split in the first place?

[d.a.v.e]

You can see the black and where the deans started to deform (very minor).

[tiqueman]

Hard to tell because of the angles, but where the flex enters the stuffing tube at the motor side, it looks like it could use an alignment. Other than that, nothings jumping out at me yet.... Ill keep studying them though...

maybe make the gap a hair bigger. You can remove the white plastic bushing and just set itat the same gap (as if the bushing was there. Did that make sense... add the gap you have, plus the white bushing space... make your gap that big.

[wilsta67]

engine mounts are twisted/loose (not straight) if your motor has been bouncing around thats what caused the break.\
remove the old piece of ply and cut a new one out of the same size ply. or use areldite to repair it.

[bbill1]

Probably way more pictures then you wanted to see.

Motor mount is **WAY** mis-aligned.

Look at the photo where it has eaten into the teflon as well.

[tiqueman]

Oh wow, I didnt even look at the mount bolts... duhh... Its way twisted.

[ron1950]

did u change the motormounts location at all? or fine q and a at proboat?

[bbill1]

Also,

With the rudder set at that angle the boat will hook badly in the turns. Set it so the leading edge of the rudder is vertical with the prop.

[d.a.v.e]

engine mounts are twisted/loose (not straight) if your motor has been bouncing around thats what caused the break.\
remove the old piece of ply and cut a new one out of the same size ply. or use areldite to repair it.

Which version of areldite do you suggest, I may try that first.

Thanks for the tips on the motor mount. I adjusted a bit and it looks better to me.

I did not know I could change the rudder angle, but I had been wondering about that I will mess with it tonight when I install the offset.

thanks!

[TheShaughnessy]

Which version of areldite do you suggest, I may try that first.

Thanks for the tips on the motor mount. I adjusted a bit and it looks better to me.

I did not know I could change the rudder angle, but I had been wondering about that I will mess with it tonight when I install the offset.

thanks!

i was wondering about both your strut and rudder angles. Is this how you got the boat or is this something you did? I run my rudder slightly tucked but that looks a little extreme. You also have a lot of positive angle on that strut. Have you run the boat like this? how does it run?

[d.a.v.e]

Strut I messed with a lot trying to make the bounce go away. The rudder is how it came. This being my first boat I can't really say how it ran other then it turned really well and others are saying my speeds are a bit low.

After offsetting the rudder today the boat does not turn nearly as well. I had the prop up way to high today, I'll try lowering it tomorrow before I run it and will try to remember the GPS. Off setting the rudder greatly reduced the bounce but its still not gone. Thinking the right strut adjustment will correct the rest of it.

[d.a.v.e]

I tried to get the brass bushing out of my strut today with no luck, its locked in there pretty tight. Any suggestions on how to loosen that up? WD-40maybe? The traditional hammer and screwdriver did not work.

I think I may have the prop up a bit to high today but its closer. I hit 30.3 with my 40c packs. They were 128 degrees when I pulled them out of the boat today. Tonight I'm going to try my 2x 4s packs.

[tiqueman]

Dave, heres a method I started using recently and it works well. Take a drill bit just larger then the inside dia. of the bushing. Drill into it. The bit will catch the bushing and lock into it and start spiining it. At that point, just slide the two apart while the drill is still operating forward.

I just did my new/ used Geico strut yesterday. Took about 3 minutes total including installing new bushings.

PS theres two of them, one in front, one in back and a raised section on the middle. So you cant blow one from one side thru to the other...

[d.a.v.e]

Ahh I did not realize there were two? I'll try the drill method thanks! How often should one replace these bushings? Just when you start to get a little slop in the drive shaft?

Well I just got back from two runs, somehow my GPS did not work on the first run with the stock prop and 2 x 4s 40-50c turnigy packs but on the second run when I switched props I got 33.6 out of it using the same batts after a quick 30min recharge (I really dig my new 720i duo, way faster charging then my 606i).

Everything seemed to be about normal temps and the 4cell packs were only about 100 after the runs. I also replaced the deans plugs with EC5 connectors and instead of plugs running 160 degrees they are now pretty cool to the touch (less then 90 as I recall on my gun). The only wires that are hot are the ones going to the motor from the ESC. I'll have to get some larger bullets for those next. These 4cell packs seem like the way to go & I got just over 10min of run time without hitting the cut off!

Now I just need to find someone that knows what they are doing to help me get this boat to stop bouncing.. I tried the packs pretty far back, in the middle, and pretty far forward... boat still bounces. Though now that the rudder is offset it seems like a different bounce? Maybe more air related as it only does it at about 27+mph?

[tiqueman]

Do you have a larger esc? If so put a m445 on it and its easy to get the bounce out. You just need to get it moving. I found that prop and the batts about a half inch from being off the back of the trays eliminated all the bounce. Can't giv an exact cog as my boats torn apart right now. Set the boat on a tableset the strut neutral and make it so its holding the back of the sponsons about an eighth of an inch off the table. I had a heck of a time trimming it out on smaller props. I did find that the same set up with a 642 had almost no bounce but that was with the 1800 kv motor so it was still doin low 40s. Bottom line, speed will get it out.

[d.a.v.e]

Which speed controller are you running?

I put the GrimRacer 42 x 55 Prop on tonight but have not tried balancing or sharpening it yet. I'm trying to do stuff in baby steps so I can understand what difference each change makes. Hoping to get a lesson on balancing and sharpening tomorrow :)

If I change the prop to a 445 and upgrade the speed control what kind of speeds can I expect?

[tiqueman]

I'm using a turnigy 120 and w the m445 I've consistantly gps'd at 43mph.

[d.a.v.e]

What are your run times?

I'm trying to figure out how to have 10min of run time and some speed? Not sure what that balance is but I have a feeling I'm close to it now. Bit worried if I start upgrading I'm going to loose some run time?

[tiqueman]

Heat will be your issue going for 10 min. I race 4min Offshore class races. Ive played an extra lap or two but I never run my boats down to LVC. I used to when I got started, but now that I dont do that anymore, I have noticed a significant change in my batteries.
You can get the 10 minutes, but Id imagine your going to be on a small prop and low 30s. Upgrading things will certainly pull down your run time. Answer, more batteries.